Audyssey Editor App- With Screenshots!

Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Warlord
If it was me I would stick with 80 Hz. Yes 100 Hz looks the best on paper but that's only if every channel is playing the same frequency at the same time, that is all channel "mono" in reality. I hope I am not confusing you.. For real world use, I suspect 80 Hz may work better for you.

The reason I asked to see all those curves for 40,60,80,90,100 Hz is to satisfy my curiosity/am obsessed.. (sorry for being selfish!) about whether Audyssey would make the comb filter effects worse. From your graphs, as well as my, if would appear Audyssey did improve the comb filter effects at any crossover setting, though it worked best for the higher settings such as 80, 90 and 100 Hz.

That is comforting for people like me who is obsessed with specs and measurements. Thanks again for taking the time to do such time consuming experiment.

By the way, in your case it fully demonstrate the good thing about the App, as you can now save what you have now as the "reference" so you can fall back to it without having to start from scratch. From here, you can follow @Jon AA 's suggestions to shape the low end away from the current "flat to the end.." to something like the "Harmon target curve", unless flat is what you prefer, that apparently not most people prefer. Without the App, I would say AARC and Dirac Live are clearly the much better choices.
No problem. I wanted to see where you were going with it and it's gIves me some more experience.

And yes, I really like being able to save multiple files and switch them in and out. It does save a ton of work. Here are the results of my tweaking.
Final 02-02-20 (2).jpg

Why did it change the scale?! I had it set at 5 dB increments. Here's the screen of the exact same chart.

REW Screenie_copy_960x540.jpg


And some house curves!
Final House Curves (1).jpg

House Curves_copy_1536x864.jpg
 
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P

PENG

Audioholic Overlord
No problem. I wanted to see where you were going with it and it's gIves me some more experience.

And yes, I really like being able to save multiple files and switch them in and out. It does save a ton of work. Here are the results of my tweaking.
View attachment 33820
Why did it change the scale?! I had it set at 5 dB increments. Here's the screen of the exact same chart.

View attachment 33821

And some house curves!
View attachment 33822
View attachment 33823
Wow, virtually flat from 15 to 95 Hz. That's the suwoofer(s) right?
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Warlord
It looks like a huge improvement but it also created a huge dip at around 84 Hz. Did you apply that 9 dB boost with the mini, if so, I wonder how it would look like with Audyssey turned off? If that boost worked, then in theory it likely is a "null" but what could that be?
All of the sweeps I did at your request were with no Mini adjustments at all so no, I didn't apply any 9 dB boosts to anything. In fact when I did go in manually and made adjustments the highest I boosted anything was 3.5 dB.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
It looks like a huge improvement but it also created a huge dip at around 84 Hz. Did you apply that 9 dB boost with the mini, if so, I wonder how it would look like with Audyssey turned off? If that boost worked, then in theory it likely is a "null" but what could that be?
I'm thinking you meant to say:
If that boost worked, then in theory it likely is not a "null"
... or am I missing something!
 
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Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Warlord
I'm thinking you meant to say:
If that boost worked, then in theory it likely is not a "null"
... or am I missing something!
He might be thinking of the 9 dB boost I posted that I did with the editor app. That's not the profile I used tho. Those sweeps were untouched and 100% Audyssey.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
My understanding of a null is that it is where the waves cancel each other, so applying a boost at that frequency would not do much of anything - it would simply make for bigger waves cancelling each other!
Since you eliminated to a good degree the dip (null?) you had, it would follow that either it was not a null or that you may have changed the phase/distance/timing so the waves do not cancel at the LP.
At least that is my understanding!
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Warlord
My understanding of a null is that it is where the waves cancel each other, so applying a boost at that frequency would not do much of anything - it would simply make for bigger waves cancelling each other!
Since you eliminated to a good degree the dip (null?) you had, it would follow that either it was not a null or that you may have changed the phase/distance/timing so the waves do not cancel at the LP.
At least that is my understanding!
Right. The dip that was left after Audyssey I was able to EQ out. Then I finessed the rest to get that flat response. Once I had that then I started working on the house curve(s). But yeah, I'm in line with your thinking as far as the null situation is concerned. I'm not sure what's going on, but it does sound good to me again.

Oh, and I am going with an 80 hz crossover. I get more information at 100 hz but it sounds thicker and less detailed. I've determined that I'm not losing that much at 80 and I prefer the extra little bit of detail.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Overlord
Right. The dip that was left after Audyssey I was able to EQ out. Then I finessed the rest to get that flat response. Once I had that then I started working on the house curve(s). But yeah, I'm in line with your thinking as far as the null situation is concerned. I'm not sure what's going on, but it does sound good to me again.

Oh, and I am going with an 80 hz crossover. I get more information at 100 hz but it sounds thicker and less detailed. I've determined that I'm not losing that much at 80 and I prefer the extra little bit of detail.
It is a weird one. I have those nulls too as you can see in my posted graphs. I knew there would be nothing I could do to help much, but I tried, and indeed nothing worked.
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Warlord
That's even more impressive!!
Well thanks man. After I bumped the house curve in there I can say it sounds really good to my ears too. I'm glad I got the stuff out and recalibrated. It's hard to say for sure, but I think it's at least as good as it was before this weekend. Nothing seems off. Subjectively, after a full day I've convinced myself it's even improved. At least I'm not hung up on the 120 hz crossover anymore.
 
ATLAudio

ATLAudio

Full Audioholic
Well thanks man. After I bumped the house curve in there I can say it sounds really good to my ears too. I'm glad I got the stuff out and recalibrated. It's hard to say for sure, but I think it's at least as good as it was before this weekend. Nothing seems off. Subjectively, after a full day I've convinced myself it's even improved. At least I'm not hung up on the 120 hz crossover anymore.
You should measure the closet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
John Galt

John Galt

Audioholic Intern
I found these room correction results interesting. I ran Audyssey calibration with my B&W 683 S2s with and without the ports plugged on my Denon X3500H.

I decided to run the speakers without the ports plugged since it looks like Audyssey had better success with this config. Without the new Denon/Audyssey app I would have never known this information.

32846730-ADF5-4AE6-8333-D8D0C9BBE8F5.jpeg
B166EBB0-8C50-4004-A013-1F0DC430935C.jpeg
70005FE8-C652-4287-ADDA-679A6798A8FE.jpeg
23A3DA55-E631-4154-91AB-5DBF9277B256.jpeg
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
I found these room correction results interesting. I ran Audyssey calibration with my B&W 683 S2s with and without the ports plugged on my Denon X3500H.

I decided to run the speakers without the ports plugged since it looks like Audyssey had better success with this config. Without the new Denon/Audyssey app I would have never known this information.

View attachment 33916View attachment 33917View attachment 33918View attachment 33919
Sub is SVS PB2000, right?
Dual or single?
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Ninja
You've got some strong room modes working in your room. I wouldn't even push those towers lower than 80, def not full range, but as they will still output low, crossed at 80, so solving for some of that cheese is important.
Fortunately you aren't looking at any 20-30dB suck outs.
Your front Right might benefit from some placement experimentation. It might only take inches in one direction or another, but you might be able to clean up whats happening there in the 30-40 Hz area...
More worth looking at is if you can effect a change in your 150-250Hz area. It could be floor bounce, but its pretty strong to be showing up in the red graph still.

Either way, I wouldn't plug the ports unless you really need to push those tight onto the front wall. After that, I'd run some experiments to see if moving them a few inches forwards or back, left or right, and possibly changing the toe angle makes any difference. I'd also recommend experimenting with just moving the Front Right by itself. A little asymmetry can work wonders... not a lot, but just like an inch or too. ;)
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Warlord
I found these room correction results interesting. I ran Audyssey calibration with my B&W 683 S2s with and without the ports plugged on my Denon X3500H.

I decided to run the speakers without the ports plugged since it looks like Audyssey had better success with this config. Without the new Denon/Audyssey app I would have never known this information.

View attachment 33916View attachment 33917View attachment 33918View attachment 33919
Pretty textbook behavior for ported vs sealed. I agree with Ryan, I wouldn't plug the ports either (even my own beloved speakers came with plugs and they just messed things up when I measured). I would think a speaker that's designed to work well ported wouldn't do so well sealed up. Likewise, popping a port into a sealed design doesn't sound like a great idea either.

What do your sub sweeps look like?
 
John Galt

John Galt

Audioholic Intern
Sub is SVS PB2000, right?
Dual or single?
SVS SB12-NSD AND SB-3000

Speakers small, 80 Hz crossover

Small room with very few placement options for speakers and subs.

BTW, can anyone tell me where I can setup a signature on this forum? I’ve looked everywhere I could think of.
 
John Galt

John Galt

Audioholic Intern
Pretty textbook behavior for ported vs sealed. I agree with Ryan, I wouldn't plug the ports either (even my own beloved speakers came with plugs and they just messed things up when I measured). I would think a speaker that's designed to work well ported wouldn't do so well sealed up. Likewise, popping a port into a sealed design doesn't sound like a great idea either.

What do your sub sweeps look like?
Sub results:

B14262CD-50AB-4F5E-BF1B-79BAA7F2900B.png
 

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