Anyone here use si sql-15 sealed fof theater duty?

[ssmokeyy]

I hear what you both are saying. First I want to make sure I ask every question I can think to ask. Second I have been looking at the design page u have made and I see one problem with it. At 1000 watts it's not a problem with flow but at 1500 plus the air velocity is really high. The amp I have is able to do 2100 rms and I know I wouldn't use the max but around 1500-1800 probably would happen. If we moved up the interior space from 3.8 to 4.8 could I make the port a little bigger and help with that air speed with higher power? I can get away with it box that 5.5 cubic pretty easy after that is where it gets pretty hard I checked my specs again of my space and it's pretty big. 10 depth, 46 wide, 36 tall. I know that is 7.6 cubic but I know one day I want a second one and that space is only 6 cubic space. So max would be around that 5.5-6 cubic box.

 

[TLS Guy]

I hear what you both are saying. First I want to make sure I ask every question I can think to ask. Second I have been looking at the design page u have made and I see one problem with it. At 1000 watts it's not a problem with flow but at 1500 plus the air velocity is really high. The amp I have is able to do 2100 rms and I know I wouldn't use the max but around 1500-1800 probably would happen. If we moved up the interior space from 3.8 to 4.8 could I make the port a little bigger and help with that air speed with higher power? I can get away with it box that 5.5 cubic pretty easy after that is where it gets pretty hard I checked my specs again of my space and it's pretty big. 10 depth, 46 wide, 36 tall. I know that is 7.6 cubic but I know one day I want a second one and that space is only 6 cubic space. So max would be around that 5.5-6 cubic box.

That driver is NOT a 1500 watt driver. It is a 1000 watt driver. The other spec driving it beyond xmax, the linear excursion of the driver, will destroy the driver and sound awful. You can see from the model that actually the absolute max for that driver is 1000 watts. Even then, it would not take a 1000 watts for all but a very brief moment before going up in smoke literally. Just think how hot your toaster gets, or a 1 KW electric fire element. To think you could put a KW of power down a coil of wire enclosed in a gap for longer then an instant is just not thinking straight. My model is accurate and if you can read the graphs, you can see exactly what that driver can take. The xmax spec. is what you need to look at, x-mech is "hot air".

I designed your enclosure correctly. That is the optimum ideal box for that driver to achieve its optimal performance. Making it bigger will make it sound worse, and degrade performance all the way round.

Sure peak air velocity is slightly high at 1000 watts. I would bet though you will never use a 1000 watts with that driver in any domestic situation. That is not even a sensible consideration, with that model I made for you.

It sounds to me that you just can't wait for the day you enter the audiologists office to receive your prescription for hearing aids.

I designed you a sub that can produce 109db at 19 Hz. That was using the driver you have. So your only option is another driver, but that is now an insane and inadvisable quest.

By the way, we are not paid for this, and essentially we are not here to answer every lunatic question someone can think up sitting on the bone of their ass.

 

[ssmokeyy]

I hope I didn't upset u just asking questions like any person would before they waste the money and build this. I have people on avsforum telling me this subs takes 1500 rms easy and that the box needs to be 6 plus cubs. So I'm just trying to under by sides here.

 

[TLS Guy]

I hope I didn't upset u just asking questions like any person would before they waste the money and build this. I have people on avsforum telling me this subs takes 1500 rms easy and that the box needs to be 6 plus cubs. So I'm just trying to under by sides here.

The people on AVS forum are wrong. What you quoted there is arrant nonsense, and that is all you can say about it. Those people don't just have the wrong end of the stick, but the wrong end of a truckload of sticks. I have been building speakers for 69 years now, and soon to be seventy.

I have designed subs for quite a number of members here over the years, and all have been thrilled with them. I can't think of one, who has been unhappy.

If you want to listen to clowns be my guest. They are going to be wrong on output, let alone the quality issue. In the end, it is not all about how low does my sub go, but the quality of the bass also. I will always sacrifice a few Hz of bass extension in my designs for better quality bass.

In the end I am satisfied I have given you the the design that will give you the best performance possible from the driver you have.

 

[ssmokeyy]

Thank u for the design and the chat.

 

[TLS Guy]

Thank u for the design and the chat.

Thanks accepted. I think a lot of your problem comes from this nonsense, that sealed is inherently more musical.

What sealed enclosures are, is that they are highly inefficient and wasteful.

At 20 Hz the sealed version I gave your requires 16 times the power than the ported version I gave you. You can read that from the graphs.

Sealed systems are also resonant as the speaker is a spring and so is the air in the box. Designing truly aperiodic low Q systems, 0.5 or less is highly specialized and the province of TL and horn designs.

I really would encourage you to build the ported model and keep us updated on progress and results.

 

[ssmokeyy]

I probably will build the ported model. I know its not the end if i build it and its turns out bad. It probably won't but I run 2 businesses and have a family of 3 so free time is very little. The wife gets mad any time i spend time away on projects. also bad thing about me is i have ocd and over worry about stuff. I know u don't need my life story just trying to tell u why i keep going over this.

 

[TLS Guy]

I probably will build the ported model. I know its not the end if i build it and its turns out bad. It probably won't but I run 2 businesses and have a family of 3 so free time is very little. The wife gets mad any time i spend time away on projects. also bad thing about me is i have ocd and over worry about stuff. I know u don't need my life story just trying to tell u why i keep going over this.

I figured that, but the world would be a sorry place without the OCD folks. Things would be cocked up rather more than the usual, to quote the great Basil Fawlty.

I hope you get time to build that sub, I think it will more then meet your requirements. It is a fairly low Qts driver and so the bass should be good and tight, as well as powerful. I guarantee you won't need close to the total power of your amp and driver ever in a domestic situation.

 

[ssmokeyy]

ON he plus side for me If this box turns out correct and i don't f it up i will be able to use the xls 2002 to run two of these. Smooth some of that bass out later on.

 

[TLS Guy]

ON he plus side for me If this box turns out correct and i don't f it up i will be able to use the xls 2002 to run two of these. Smooth some of that bass out later on.

Absolutely you can.

 

[Miatakoss]

The people on AVS forum are wrong. What you quoted there is arrant nonsense, and that is all you can say about it. Those people don't just have the wrong end of the stick, but the wrong end of a truckload of sticks. I have been building speakers for 69 years now, and soon to be seventy.

I have designed subs for quite a number of members here over the years, and all have been thrilled with them. I can't think of one, who has been unhappy.

If you want to listen to clowns be my guest. They are going to be wrong on output, let alone the quality issue. In the end, it is not all about how low does my sub go, but the quality of the bass also. I will always sacrifice a few Hz of bass extension in my designs for better quality bass.

In the end I am satisfied I have given you the the design that will give you the best performance possible from the driver you have.

I have the SQL-15 SEALED 2FT SEALED. Powered from a Crown 1502 bridged 4 ohms. It seems very articulate and gives the inaudible shockwaves effortlessly. None the less, I love This hobby because that's what it is try different things and learn different things so I would be really excited if you might possibly share these design plans with me and if possible the cutout sheet because for what I'm terrible with math I don't know crap about port calculations warrior velocity I understand it but I don't know how to do the math for it. But if I have plans I can build anything even a staircase to the Moon no I just kidding about that! Well I read this whole thing I was very intrigued and love the information shared so if by any chance you're able to share I appreciate it and thank you in advance! Happy holidays everyone!

 

[fahrfrompuken]

I just bought my first SQL-15D4 in carbon fiber. It’s going under my seat in my F150. It will be in a down firing box about 2.4 ft.³. Can’t wait to try it out.!

 

[TLS Guy]

I just bought my first SQL-15D4 in carbon fiber. It’s going under my seat in my F150. It will be in a down firing box about 2.4 ft.³. Can’t wait to try it out.!

A car sub us the correct application for that driver in a sealed box. However your box is too big. The optimal sealed volume is 1.61 cu.ft. plus the addition of bracing.

 

[highfigh]

So I have built subwoofer boxes before ported and sealed. I like sealed over ported. But I want to hit 19 hz with the thunder. Can the sql-15 hit 19 hz sealed over 105db with out sounding like its stressed out?

You'll need to park that in a corner and possibly use some EQ if you want 19Hz with authority. Just make sure the woofer can handle a good amount of power below 30Hz.