Another Statements build

[JimAckley]

At last, it's all here...

...or so I thought. I just realized that I forgot to order binding posts, wires, and spikes I have spare junk wire lying around that I'll use to get the crossovers going so I can at least check everything. I'll order the rest when I decide on how I wanna finish the enclosure and get the wood.

 

[jinjuku]

At last, it's all here...

...or so I thought. I just realized that I forgot to order binding posts, wires, and spikes I have spare junk wire lying around that I'll use to get the crossovers going so I can at least check everything. I'll order the rest when I decide on how I wanna finish the enclosure and get the wood.

Just get the heavy gauge alligator clips from Radio Shack to wire everything up for testing.

Be interesting how many early in the A.M. posts you have over the next week or so

 

[Warpdrv]

Nice..... let the fun begin...

If your room isn't too large - you could just go sealed, but if your driven to get the PR's - awesome...

Also - I certainly wouldn't discount the idea of just a pair of EP4000's to drive either alignment - you'll save some money and believe me that you will really get more output then you think without the 4000w amps... trust me..

 

[JimAckley]

Just get the heavy gauge alligator clips from Radio Shack to wire everything up for testing.

Be interesting how many early in the A.M. posts you have over the next week or so

I went to Altex, got some alligator clips, and got them hooked up yesterday. Everything sounds good so far. I can't wait to get them in enclosures and hear the real deal.

How much do I need to shorten the port to accommodate for the new tuning frequency?

Nice..... let the fun begin...

If your room isn't too large - you could just go sealed, but if your driven to get the PR's - awesome...

Also - I certainly wouldn't discount the idea of just a pair of EP4000's to drive either alignment - you'll save some money and believe me that you will really get more output then you think without the 4000w amps... trust me..

Even though my room is definitely small enough for sealed, I want to go ported so I won't need stands, won't have to worry about knockin them off the stands (I'm still in college and prone to partying quite frequently), and can fill larger rooms sufficiently, PLUS I'm still a bit of a bass head.

I still have a LOT to look into for the subwoofer. I wanted to finish the towers first so I can decide what's necessary (or what's not) for my LFE channel. I've even debated switching to the 5100 Pro instead of the 5400, but I'm not doing jack until I have these towers 100% completed.

 

[JimAckley]

For those of you who have Google SketchUp, I uploaded a copy of my current mock-up to Game Front. You can click here to download the SketchUp file.

I'm thinking of a black base, topped by a black front baffle and cherry sides. I haven't yet decided on what I would like to do with the back. I'll probably paint the insides of the tunnels black. I'm going to either do a front or rear firing port; I haven't decided quite yet. Some of the details aren't 100% dead-on in the SketchUp, e.g. the midrange chamfering, but those particulars will be dead on for the final product. My model's also missing the crossovers, binding posts, and wiring, but that will all soon be laid out and modeled.

Here's a couple shots for those who don't have access to SketchUp:

 

[jinjuku]

The port length doesn't change...

 

[JimAckley]

The port length doesn't change...

The ‘new’ driver will exhibit the same f3 and
f10 with the original enclosure and tuning, but
has a more of a shelving response, so will
have up to 1 dB less output for the 1/2 octave
either side of 80 Hz. A 20% to 25% reduction
in enclosure volume along with a 4 Hz higher
tuning results in a modeled response that
closely emulates the original response and
only loses about 3 Hz of extension over the
shielded driver. This may be good news for
those who think the present enclosures need
to be more svelte.

To tune 4 Hz higher, I'm going to need a shorter port, right?

I haven't worked out where I'm going to lose the additional volume from quite yet. I'm assuming a baffle right above the upper woofer and above the current bottom baffle would get the job done. I like the look of the enclosure as is, so I'm not going to remove any of the height.

 

[jinjuku]

Curt Campbell says to leave the port length alone...

Keep the cabinet height but simply move the bottom panel of wood up.

 

[jinjuku]

Any updates? Matt just finished assembly on his pair

 

[JimAckley]

Any updates? Matt just finished assembly on his pair

School and work have kept me busy. I've got everything except the wood. Just haven't had the time.

On the upside, my truck's system took a few steps forward. I built new enclosures for my 15s, ported, tuned to 23 Hz. It digs DEEEEP, especially for a Silverado.