First off, it's been too long since I've been on the forum. I was a regular back in the day but as life would have it I decided to become a doctor and was very busy and essentially lifeless outside of medicine and family. Now that I'm wrapping up my last year of residency things are a little different and I'm finding time to get back into some hobbies. My desire for good sound has never left, despite having to sell some of my favorite DIY speakers over the past years due to moves and downsizing. \n\nI am currently researching how to revitalize an old design proposed to me by TLS_Guy, which by the way, the 2-way speakers I built per his recommendations still put a smile on my face today when I listen to them. The old design takes my 2-way speaker and adds a Peerless SLS 10" to it. I have drawn up some ideas, following the recs of TLS making it a wide base with narrowing top. The internal volume being close to 3.0 cubic feet would give me an F3 of 30hz with a 4" x 9.25" long port. This is slightly smaller than the specs per TLS but from a size standpoint, it works better.\n\nThe link to the old thread is here. These speakers would be built for dedicated 2-channel listening. I also would like to make this design active, which will be a new experience for me and a departure from the original design. Being an active setup I am not opposed to other bass drivers if they would fit\/ work better. Getting that Peerless 10" driver into 4 cubic feet requires a very large tower speaker. To the original thread's credit, it was mentioned that I should do the setup active. The draws to an active design are potential power efficiency, lower distortion, ease of crossover adjustment, tailored EQ response to the listening room (although this could be done with parametric eq on a passive design I suppose). I am going for more of sound quality design with full audible spectrum coverage without the use of a separate subwoofer. \n\nA few questions:\nI've thought about using amplifiers from Parts Express that I can place inside the speaker itself, but if I do that I would need a power supply to run 3 amps per speaker, and I haven't sorted out how I would set gain on each amplifier if it is already in the speaker when I go to set up the crossover? It seems there are a few devices that would work for the crossover. Behringer DCX2496 would be one of them. Another that I think would work is the Dayton DSP408, it seems like the Dayton would handle the sources and outputs and it has programmable crossover points. Is there a good resource for setting up active designs? It seems the information on the internet is spread out, some good stuff here, some there. I was anticipating a 50-100 watt amp for the tweeter, a 100-200 watt amp for the midrange and woofer each. I would use something like REW and a UMM-6 microphone for testing and calibration. Would I need other calibration hardware\/software? \n\n I picture the setup to include a stereo receiver that can handle airplay and Bluetooth, also phono input as I plan on buying a record player. The setup needs to be as easy as turning on the stereo and selecting the source. Amplification and DSP power need to all feed off the receiver or a smart strip of some kind. \n\nAny tips, hints, criticisms, suggestions are welcome. This is a project I am currently hoping to have completed before Christmas season 2020.