My Rythmik FV18 is Broken. Next steps?

TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Yeah it will be interesting. I assumed it is the servo board from the instructions, because it is tied directly to the speaker wires. No way to take it off without cutting the wires. As well as the paper work and instructions eluded to it being the servo board. But I could be wrong.
Staggering what some designers do. Who designs in a way a board can't be removed without cutting wires? That is just bad practice. Years ago I had an retired Africana math teacher. When we were doing our work he would come up behind you, and if we had made a "howler" he would put one finger on the howler as he tweaked the hairs in the back of your neck, and pronounce " Say your wretched". he he keep going until you said, "I'm wretched sir, I'm wretched sir!" We all thought it a hoot and frequently imitating him. Anyhow those designers need to be made to "say they are wretched!"
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Staggering what some designers do. Who designs in a way a board can't be removed without cutting wires? That is just bad practice.
Yeah well just buy externally powered subs and never have to worry or complain about it.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Yeah well just buy externally powered subs and never have to worry or complain about it.
That will work for ported subs, but not sealed ones or servo subs like the OPs. Sealed subs need Eq below F3, and then a high pass filter to stop driver over excursion. Basically that is what I do, although my long main lines are a sub plus and each requires two power amps as the two drivers do not receive the same signal.
I do understand the convenience of a sub plus amp. It reduces clutter, and also allows for phasing and volume trim and issues like that.
 
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