BiWire Speaker Cable help needed

[BFL]

Do the some of speaker companies make bi wire speakers so u can run 2 different amps.. Maybe one to drive the woofers harder or mids and highs brighter rather than 1 amp and splitting the signals like I currently have?

 

[ryanosaur]

What about the claim that some speaker cables say that their cable is full range and some don't say at all?

Remember, the cable is only carrying electricity, not music. The Transducers in the Speakers... the Drivers... are what make the music.
This is why I commented earlier about electrons not needing massages. The conductor is just the path for the electrons to flow. Changing your plumbing won't make the water any sweeter, or the sewage small any better. And much like elctricity, you need the right size Pipe to do the job properly, and in electricity that is simply a good Copper conductor of appropriate AWG.

 

[BFL]

So u replied that u are using the same cables as me 12awg Monoprice. What others did u try 1st?

 

[TLS Guy]

Do the some of speaker companies make bi wire speakers so u can run 2 different amps.. Maybe one to drive the woofers harder or mids and highs brighter rather than 1 amp and splitting the signals like I currently have?

You are long overdue from some serious deprogramming. You have an advanced case of Audiophilia Nervosa.

Let us get this straight, your plan will seriously degrade the performance of your new speakers.

Point one: - bi-wiring with IDENTICAL cables will do not harm, but it won't do any good. So it is a waste of time and money.

If you are using some contraption of a box that separates highs and lows, then you will really muck up your sound. That is an absolute do not!

The reason is that your speakers have a crossover to feed the correct signal to each speaker. It does not need any device ahead of that. When you disconnect the jumpers you just connect to the high pass and low pass sections of the crossover. All you have done is make a very long jumper. Yes, that is all. No benefit at all and a waste of wire.

You just need one run of wire, either 12 AWG or 10 AWG depending on length. I use Belden. That is a good cable. Exotic speaker cables are voodoo and again a waste of money, and often worse than good quality cables like Belden.

Now if you are going to split high and lows before the speaker, that is called an active speaker.

In that case the speaker contains no crossover, and the crossover are active powered devices ahead of the amplifiers. There is a section for each driver, and each driver is connected to its own amplifier. This is generally an improvement over the usual passive crossovers driven from one amp, if done correctly. It is more complex. This technique is gaining in popularity and in active speakers now, they generally have an active crossover with DSP and a class D amp for each speaker in the speaker. So these speakers plug into the AC, and need an RCA or XLR cable from a preamp. No external power amp is required.

I personally am enthusiastic about active speakers, as they allow for correction of problems that passive crossovers can not.

Now scrub your brain of what the loonies and snake oil salesmen have told you, and read what I have written until you understand it. What I have written is the absolute truth and anything to the contrary is false.

 

[ryanosaur]

So u replied that u are using the same cables as me 12awg Monoprice. What others did u try 1st?

None.
I bought a spool of oxygen free, pure copper speaker wire. It was inexpensive. It conducts electricity. Job done.

It's simple physics, not a marketing scam.

Don't know what else to tell you.

 

[BFL]

You are long overdue from some serious deprogramming. You have an advanced case of Audiophilia Nervosa.

Let us get this straight, your plan will seriously degrade the performance of your new speakers.

Point one: - bi-wiring with IDENTICAL cables will do not harm, but it won't do any good. So it is a waste of time and money.

If you are using some contraption of a box that separates highs and lows, then you will really muck up your sound. That is an absolute do not!

The reason is that your speakers have a crossover to feed the correct signal to each speaker. It does not need any device ahead of that. When you disconnect the jumpers you just connect to the high pass and low pass sections of the crossover. All you have done is make a very long jumper. Yes, that is all. No benefit at all and a waste of wire.

You just need one run of wire, either 12 AWG or 10 AWG depending on length. I use Belden. That is a good cable. Exotic speaker cables are voodoo and again a waste of money, and often worse than good quality cables like Belden.

Now if you are going to split high and lows before the speaker, that is called an active speaker.

In that case the speaker contains no crossover, and the crossover are active powered devices ahead of the amplifiers. There is a section for each driver, and each driver is connected to its own amplifier. This is generally an improvement over the usual passive crossovers driven from one amp, if done correctly. It is more complex. This technique is gaining in popularity and in active speakers now, they generally have an active crossover with DSP and a class D amp for each speaker in the speaker. So these speakers plug into the AC, and need an RCA or XLR cable from a preamp. No external power amp is required.

I personally am enthusiastic about active speakers, as they allow for correction of problems that passive crossovers can not.

Now scrub your brain of what the loonies and snake oil salesmen have told you, and read what I have written until you understand it. What I have written is the absolute truth and anything to the contrary is false.

It's not that I doubt what u are saying.. The damage was done 2 decades ago when I bought the MIT cables. So, if I'm to make a change I prefer to do it only once. Basically you are saying it's not worth getting Audioquest or Kimble wires even though the resistance is less? Just keep it simple with 10 or 12awg copper wire.

 

[ryanosaur]

It's not that I doubt what u are saying.. The damage was done 2 decades ago when I bought the MIT cables. So, if I'm to make a change I prefer to do it only once. Basically you are saying it's not worth getting Audioquest or Kimble wires even though the resistance is less? Just keep it simple with 10 or 12awg copper wire.

Yes.

If money is no object, than certainly, feel free to buy a Premium Brand. Kimber is fine, but avoid the scammers like Fraudioquest, synergistic... basically any company that tells you that they have a special solution guaranteed to make your system sound better.

If you think you want something better than Monoprice...

Belden, Canare... Mogami, I suppose.

You haven't shared what Speakers you use, or how difficult of a load they may be to drive. But unless you are using something silly, 12AWG should be all you need for most situations up to around 30' long runs.
If you want to roll your own, you can easily do that. Or contact Blue Jeans Cables and have them do the work for you.
If you really want to Bi-Wire, they'll build the cable for you to do that.

When you measure your runs, just add an extra foot on each side of the run to help make certain you aren't pulling on the connections!

 

[BFL]

Yes.

If money is no object, than certainly, feel free to buy a Premium Brand. Kimber is fine, but avoid the scammers like Fraudioquest, synergistic... basically any company that tells you that they have a special solution guaranteed to make your system sound better.

If you think you want something better than Monoprice...

Belden, Canare... Mogami, I suppose.

You haven't shared what Speakers you use, or how difficult of a load they may be to drive. But unless you are using something silly, 12AWG should be all you need for most situations up to around 30' long runs.
If you want to roll your own, you can easily do that. Or contact Blue Jeans Cables and have them do the work for you.
If you really want to Bi-Wire, they'll build the cable for you to do that.

When you measure your runs, just add an extra foot on each side of the run to help make certain you aren't pulling on the connections!

Current fronts are my 25 year old Infinity Overture 3s and the new ones due to arrive any day now are Martin Logan Xt F100s.

Curious, what would make the 3 brands u listed any better than the Monoprice? The specs monoprice advertise seem good too.

 

[ryanosaur]

Current fronts are my 25 year old Infinity Overture 3s and the new ones due to arrive any day now are Martin Logan Xt F100s.

Curious, what would make the 3 brands u listed any better than the Monoprice? The specs monoprice advertise seem good too.

Those are the commonly cited "step-up" brands from Monoprice or other budget cables. If you found Gene's video, there was a generic cable measured that wasn't great but wasn't bad. Been a while since I saw the vid I'm thinking of, but maybe it had slightly higher inductance...? *shrugs
Belden's basic cables are just considered a little better than Monoprice.

Are you going to hear it?

No.

But those 3 companies are generally regarded fairly well by industry professionals and hobbyists that aren't looking for pixie dust and unicorn farts to make their system "better."

And I still use Monoprice cable.

 

[TLS Guy]

It's not that I doubt what u are saying.. The damage was done 2 decades ago when I bought the MIT cables. So, if I'm to make a change I prefer to do it only once. Basically you are saying it's not worth getting Audioquest or Kimble wires even though the resistance is less? Just keep it simple with 10 or 12awg copper wire.

I have had to repair Kimber cables for a friend. I thought the workmanship shoddy at best.

How long is your speaker run. I have long runs and so use 10 AWG copper cables, for many 12 AWG. is satisfactory.

This is a link to the Belden web site.

They are available from many sites including Parts Express.

I'm sure their Audiotech line is also satisfactory.

 

[BFL]

Those are the commonly cited "step-up" brands from Monoprice or other budget cables. If you found Gene's video, there was a generic cable measured that wasn't great but wasn't bad. Been a while since I saw the vid I'm thinking of, but maybe it had slightly higher inductance...? *shrugs
Belden's basic cables are just considered a little better than Monoprice.

Are you going to hear it?

No.

But those 3 companies are generally regarded fairly well by industry professionals and hobbyists that aren't looking for pixie dust and unicorn farts to make their system "better."

And I still use Monoprice cable.

OK, I will look at all 4 and decide.. Appreciate your time on this.

 

[BFL]

I have had to repair Kimber cables for a friend. I thought the workmanship shoddy at best.

How long is your speaker run. I have long runs and so use 10 AWG copper cables, for many 12 AWG. is satisfactory.

This is a link to the Belden web site.

They are available from many sites including Parts Express.

I'm sure their Audiotech line is also satisfactory.

Probably 8ft to each is enough.

 

[lovinthehd]

Your Monoprice 12g is perfectly fine for speakers, that's what I buy in bulk and use for all runs as it is perfectly adequate for my uses. MIT was and is bullshit. Kimber is pretty but expensive and they do sell some bullshit cables, too. Fraudioquest the name says it all I could go on. Here's an AH article on biwiring/biamping https://www.audioholics.com/frequent-questions/the-difference-between-biamping-vs-biwiring

 

[Verdinut]

Probably 8ft to each is enough.

For those wire lengths, gauge 14 is amply satisfactory.

 

[mtrycrafts]

Do the some of speaker companies make bi wire speakers so u can run 2 different amps.. Maybe one to drive the woofers harder or mids and highs brighter rather than 1 amp and splitting the signals like I currently have?

Speaker companies are in business to sell speakers, good ones, or not.
Some customers like you want two pair of binding post so the maker placed it on there so it can sell it to you as well, not because it makes a difference. Simple.

So u replied that u are using the same cables as me 12awg Monoprice. What others did u try 1st?

There is nothing to try first or last. No need to.

It's not that I doubt what u are saying.. The damage was done 2 decades ago when I bought the MIT cables. So, if I'm to make a change I prefer to do it only once. Basically you are saying it's not worth getting Audioquest or Kimble wires even though the resistance is less? Just keep it simple with 10 or 12awg copper wire.

You have that MIT, so use it either one set of the wires or both. or, that other cable you have.
Stop worrying about this, enjoy the sound the speakers produce or get better speakers, not cables.

 

[BFL]

I don't have any of the Monoprice left, so if I'm gonna try one... Is this one good one to try.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088T1L1RH?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_F53T5A7ZXZSYTG9765ZT

 

[BFL]

Or this one which uses the Belden https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N49LG43?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_BHV3E7QWCA7Z715XBQVE

 

[TLS Guy]

Probably 8ft to each is enough.

In that case 12 or 14 AWG will be fine.

 

[TLS Guy]

Or this one which uses the Belden https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N49LG43?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_BHV3E7QWCA7Z715XBQVE

Blue Jeans products are first class. They are an excellent reliable company that I have done business with.

 

[BFL]

Blue Jeans products are first class. They are an excellent reliable company that I have done business with.

Any preference between the 2 I posted?