Amp to Expand System

[PENG]

Yes I have that one.

By the way, if I connect the towers, I would have to use a y-splitter for the subs and one for the towers, is that right or no?

That is correct, assuming you use sub1 for the left sub, then you would connect the left tower with sub1 and right tower to sub2. Also, for best result you would have to re-run Audyssey so that it would time aligned sub1 and sub2 again and then EQ them together. You see that's why the so called 7.2.4 is a misnomer, it doesn't matter how many subs and/or subouts you have, it is really 7.1.4 because there is only one single discrete subwoofer channel. A true sub1 and sub2 such as Denon/Marantz is only two discrete channel during the time aligning process done by Sub EQ HT.

Please make sure you use the App and save the file/curve in a different name so you know which is which without having to re-run Audyssey again.

Also, the AVR-X4700H supposedly can save two files/curve/settings(only if I understand the feature correctly) on the AVR so it should be easy to compare without having to re-send the curve every time.

 

[Project SOG]

That is correct, assuming you use sub1 for the left sub, then you would connect the left tower with sub1 and right tower to sub2. Also, for best result you would have to re-run Audyssey so that it would time aligned sub1 and sub2 again and then EQ them together. You see that's why the so called 7.2.4 is a misnomer, it doesn't matter how many subs and/or subouts you have, it is really 7.1.4 because there is only one single discrete subwoofer channel. A true sub1 and sub2 such as Denon/Marantz is only two discrete channel during the time aligning process done by Sub EQ HT.

Please make sure you use the App and save the file/curve in a different name so you know which is which without having to re-run Audyssey again.

Also, the AVR-X4700H supposedly can save two files/curve/settings(only if I understand the feature correctly) on the AVR so it should be easy to compare without having to re-send the curve every time.

Thanks a lot for guiding me through this.

I just ran it with the sub connections and it sounded horrible lol . The bass was too boomy. I set it back without the connections let the PB2000's Pros do all the heavy lifting.

By the way, when does it become necessary to run REW?

 

[lovinthehd]

It's not necessary per se to use REW, but it gives you a better picture of what's going on if used well. Can be a very handy tool with a measurement mic, tho....

 

[Project SOG]

It's not necessary per se to use REW, but it gives you a better picture of what's going on if used well. Can be a very handy tool with a measurement mic, tho....

Ok that's good to know! My umik-1 just arrived so when I get a chance I will start learning how to use so I can measure.

 

[PENG]

Thanks a lot for guiding me through this.

I just ran it with the sub connections and it sounded horrible lol . The bass was too boomy. I set it back without the connections let the PB2000's Pros do all the heavy lifting.

By the way, when does it become necessary to run REW?

I am not surprised that you were getting boomy bass and I did warn you that "It may or may not sound better so for less work, not connecting them may be a good way. " I also suggested that if you are going to try it, you should re-run Audyssey.

It is still my opinion that not using the LFE connection is likely the better way for such kind of speakers.

 

[Project SOG]

I am not surprised that you were getting boomy bass and I did warn you that "It may or may not sound better so for less work, not connecting them may be a good way. " I also suggested that if you are going to try it, you should re-run Audyssey.

It is still my opinion that not using the LFE connection is likely the better way for such kind of speakers.

I agree 100%. I did re-run Audessey but it still didn't sound as good as without it.

By the way, yesterday when we were talking about the dB SPL from the listening position, I ran out again with two speakers and it came out to 108.5 dB.

Is that per speaker? Also I reached out to the gentlemen from Buckeye and haven't heard from him.

 

[PENG]

I agree 100%. I did re-run Audessey but it still didn't sound as good as without it.

By the way, yesterday when we were talking about the dB SPL from the listening position, I ran out again with two speakers and it came out to 108.5 dB.

Is that per speaker? Also I reached out to the gentlemen from Buckeye and haven't heard from him.

108.5 dB for 2 speakers so it will be 105.5 dB for 1 speaker.

Buckeye usually respond within 24 hours but its holiday season so it may take longer.

 

[Project SOG]

108.5 dB for 2 speakers so it will be 105.5 dB for 1 speaker.

Buckeye usually respond within 24 hours but its holiday season so it may take longer.

Got it!

By the way, I got a response - turn around time is April

 

[PENG]

Got it!

By the way, I got a response - turn around time is April

Wow, he has ao many orders he can't keep I guess.. If you are not in a hurry, it may be worth the wait. I have been listening to mine all day playing HD files, really like it.

 

[Golfx]

That is the reason I went with Nord Audio in England plus Nord offered the option of RCA and XLR inputs. Also has an add on of 10 Euros for paying for import taxes and that option also offers USA repair if the amp requires it.


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[PENG]

That is the reason I went with Nord Audio in England plus Nord offered the option of RCA and XLR inputs. Also has an add on of 10 Euros for paying for import taxes and that option also offers USA repair if the amp requires it.


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If I remember right VTV has increased their price at least twice in the last 18 months or so, but still way lower than Nord's, though I am sure Nord's build quality is better. RCA inputs for those amps may be convenient, but Monoprice RCA to XLR cables work great anyway, I tried it last week with my X4400H and the AV8801 (XLR), the amp was just about silent at 0 and barely audible at +18. It was actually nosier with the AV8801 even with XLR, amazingly..

 

[Golfx]

That’s probably true.


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[Project SOG]

Wow, he has ao many orders he can't keep I guess.. If you are not in a hurry, it may be worth the wait. I have been listening to mine all day playing HD files, really like it.

Yeah he's

Wow, he has ao many orders he can't keep I guess.. If you are not in a hurry, it may be worth the wait. I have been listening to mine all day playing HD files, really like it.

Yeah he's probably super busy. VTV's turnaround is 1st week of January, which is not terrible.

I ran a little experiment of watching Black Panther at -20 like @loveinthehd and it was pretty loud. To be able to watch for a longer period I had to lower my center trim lol.

 

[PENG]

Yeah he's

Yeah he's probably super busy. VTV's turnaround is 1st week of January, which is not terrible.

I ran a little experiment of watching Black Panther at -20 like @loveinthehd and it was pretty loud. To be able to watch for a longer period I had to lower my center trim lol.

If you do go with VTV in the end because of the quick delivery, be sure to ask him to include the standby switch. If he won't do it, or the price adder is too high, you can do it yourself but try to get him to drill the hole for you.

 

[Project SOG]

If you do go with VTV in the end because of the quick delivery, be sure to ask him to include the standby switch. If he won't do it, or the price adder is too high, you can do it yourself but try to get him to drill the hole for you.

I asked him if the trigger was included and he said that was an option in the drop down. My apologies for my ignorance on this but is the trigger the same as the standby option?

 

[PENG]

I asked him if the trigger was included and he said that was an option in the drop down. My apologies for my ignorance on this but is the trigger the same as the standby option?

Trigger is for turning on the amp by a trigger signal from another devices so you only have turn on one device, in your case it will be the AVR.

The standby switch allows you to put the amp in standby mode to save energy (0.25 W for the NC502MP) so you can leave the power switch on full time and just use the standby switch when you are not using it. So it you plan on using the trigger all the time then you don't need the standby switch. Note that in standby mode the amp will not produce much heat at all, so it should help the amp last longer too.

I like the standby switch because I use my amp in my two channel systems only. Another reason for using the switch (in my case) is that it can avoid the occasionally power on/off popping noise.

 

[Project SOG]

Trigger is for turning on the amp by a trigger signal from another devices so you only have turn on one device, in your case it will be the AVR.

The standby switch allows you to put the amp in standby mode to save energy (0.25 W for the NC502MP) so you can leave the power switch on full time and just use the standby switch when you are not using it. So it you plan on using the trigger all the time then you don't need the standby switch. Note that in standby mode the amp will not produce much heat at all, so it should help the amp last longer too.

I like the standby switch because I use my amp in my two channel systems only. Another reason for using the switch (in my case) is that it can avoid the occasionally power on/off popping noise.

So with the standby switch I can basically just leave it on and when I turn on the AVR, it'll automatically activate and start working?

 

[Eric JM]

Is there a way for me to split the trigger on my system into 4, then let me user switches to turn on independent zones?

 

[Golfx]

ET-3 Trigger Expansion Module

The ET-3 is a handy little device that improves the flexibility of the basic trigger functionality on your preamp or processor. Shop preamp accessories today!

emotiva.com

Try this.
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[PENG]

So with the standby switch I can basically just leave it on and when I turn on the AVR, it'll automatically activate and start working?

No, that would be the trigger that you have to use.

TRIGGER OUT jacks AVR-X4700H (denon.com)