Teac Reference Series

[turbolader500]

A daily driver I'm working on 550 Case, lowered chassis - Z390i ITX, 9900k, 280mm water cooler, 1060.

 

[turbolader500]

Here's what I've learnt.

On buttons are easy to solder. Cuts are a pain to tidy. I'm not great at metalwork. Any modification on the outside stands out. It's always very tight.

You've got 80mm height to play with in the Tuners, Minidisc, Cassette and 550 DVD. Fitting a low profile card upright is very tight, but could be done depending on the height of the card. The low profile 750TI I had didn't. May have with slightly shorter motherboard standoffs. TFX power supply fits, just.

Airflow in these cases are tough, so mounting the board back like the server might be an idea depending on what the unit is doing.

The CD, 500 DVD, are the same height as the 500D surround amp, and the 500 with the radio built in, but the amp cases have ventilation and are a tiny bit longer. Long story short a nice case is an amp with a CD/DVD front.

Full size graphics card are tight to fit whichever case, usually the power input being along the top being a deciding factor. Hence I lowered the center part of the chassis on some, and even then depending on the height of the card it is tight and can buldge a little bit.

The 550 amp is taller again and can hold a fullsize PSU at the front with an ITX board and decent graphics, but even with a lowered chassis I struggled to get some cards in there over the years.

 

[Victor rODRIGUEZ]

[QUOTE = "enrique, post: 1308340, miembro: 10330"] Me doy cuenta de que este es un tema antiguo pero que solo pude encontrar. Tengo un Teac agh550 que estaba almacenado. Lo saqué recientemente. Tengo un par de Dynaudio Excite x14 que iba a usar en una configuración diferente pero indeciso. Pero primero quería saber si alguien sabe si el Teac sería capaz de manejar a los Dyn y qué tan bien en caso de que me vaya. Esta ruta separada. gracias [/ QUOTE]
De acuerdo con las especificaciones de la excite 15 necesitas
Especificaciones técnicas Excite X14A
Tweeter de potencia del amplificador: 50 W, Woofer: 50 W.
El teac tiene 80 w en total, no sé si será muy poco.

 

[Victor rODRIGUEZ]

[QUOTE = "enrique, post: 1308340, miembro: 10330"] Me da cuenta de que este es un tema antiguo pero que solo pude encontrar. Tengo un té de 550 que estaba almacenado. Lo saqué recientemente. Tengo un par de Dynaudio Excite x14 que iba a usar en una configuración diferente pero indeciso. Pero primero quiero saber si alguien sabe cómo se puede manejar. Esta ruta separada. gracias [/ QUOTE]
[QUOTE = "pablotaxi69, post: 1280333, miembro: 86113"] "Solo tengo 1 problema con el potenciómetro de volumen en el AG-H550. El volumen está aumentando con todos los altavoces buenos, pero en general, la voz del altavoz central desaparece y se rasca, pero si el punzón en el potenciómetro o en el volumen del volumen, el sonido se convierte en la norma ".
¿Resolviste el problema? ¿Cómo? [/ QUOTE]
PAGrueba a limpiar los potenciometros con un spray de ressiduo 0

 

[pablotaxi69]

[QUOTE = "arpeggiator, post: 1314352, tag: 81035"] Igen találtam problémát. Ez az SDT-S-112DMR hangszóró relé problémája volt. Az IT-t helyettesítem, és most tökéletesen működik [/ QUOTE]
Thanx!

 

[Grahame]

My remote - RC-613 for 500 series is unreliable. The red light flickers ? because there is an intermittent contact. I opened it and cleaned the PCB contacts and the rubber membrane. This seemed to solve the problem - but not for long. Any suggestions how to fix this? Or, can anyone tell me if any another TEAC remote will work? I see RC-711 suggested as suitable for 500 series.

 

[pablotaxi69]

A TEAC H-500i bekapcsolásakor csak a bal oldalról hallható hang. Ha átváltom a bemeneti választót, akkor tökéletesen működik. Mi lehet a probléma?

 

[Grahame]

It sounds like there is only one channel working on the input
Talán csak egy csatorna található azon a bemeneten, amelyet a választóváltás előtt használt

 

[pablotaxi69]

Bármelyik bemenete is van, csak az egyik oldal fog hallani, amikor bekapcsolom. Akkor az összes bemenet működni fog, ha átkapcsolom.

 

[Grahame]

Bocsánat. Nem értettem a problémát.
Apologies. I did not understand the problem.

 

[pablotaxi69]

Sajnálom, csak egy Google Fordító nem túl jó! 1. Kapcsolja be az erősítőt. 2. Nincs hang csak egy bal oldali csatornán. 3. Átkapcsolom a bemeneti választót, majd mindkét csatornán van hang. 4. Ha kikapcsolom, majd bekapcsolom, csak egy bal oldali csatorna marad meg. 5. Újra bekapcsolom a bemeneti választót, majd mindkét csatornán megszólal a hangot.

Videót készítek arról, hogyan működik.

 

[gabo]

Hey guys!

What a great thread we have here

I´ve got a TEAC AV-500 surround amplifier (not the modern "AV -500D") and it sounds amazing with my B&W CDM 2 speakers! After 20 years in use, it still kicks some ass!

After diving deep into the "Teac Reference" world I´ve got some questions:

1 - Both AV-500 and AV-500D have a toroidal power supply? After researching this information I found nothing conclusive even reading their manuals and forums along the way.

2 - Does the A-500i amplifier sound better than the AV-500?

BTW, this is my current SETUP:

AV 500 Surround Amplifier
T-H500 Tuner
PD-500 Compact Disc Player
R-H500 Cassette Player
2 x Technics SL1200 Mk2 (with Ortofon Concorde Dj S needles)
2 x Pioneer XDJ 1000 Mk2
Pioneer DJM 900 Nexus Mixer
B&W CDM 2 speakers

Cheers!

 

[claman]

Hi Gabo,

I have to say the TEAC A-H500i is the top of the line when coming to stereo music. Also considering this being a vintage equipment please check the filter caps, there are 4 x 4700 (50V I guess or 63) and 2 x 2200 (35 V hope I remember correctly). Other than that a small upgrade to caps around the tone board and Phono preamp to ELNA would be recomended.

I already own two of these bad boys, and I can say, for 100 Euros a piece, is a GEM!
The BASS is phenomenal! I mean in the specs the freq reproduction is 5Hz-80kHz . Beat that. Also keep in mind to look for the "i" at the end of the name A-H500 is good but nut as A-H500i.

posing a pic with my living room piece.
Have a good one!

 

[KEW]

Hi Gabo,

I have to say the TEAC A-H500i is the top of the line when coming to stereo music. Also considering this being a vintage equipment please check the filter caps, there are 4 x 4700 (50V I guess or 63) and 2 x 2200 (35 V hope I remember correctly). Other than that a small upgrade to caps around the tone board and Phono preamp to ELNA would be recomended.

I already own two of these bad boys, and I can say, for 100 Euros a piece, is a GEM!
The BASS is phenomenal! I mean in the specs the freq reproduction is 5Hz-80kHz . Beat that. Also keep in mind to look for the "i" at the end of the name A-H500 is good but nut as A-H500i.

posing a pic with my living room piece.
Have a good one!

Nice bit of kit!
What kind of speakers/sub are you running?
Have you considered adding a little $20 BT receiver? I've had good luck with them on older gear!

Welcome to the forum!

 

[claman]

Hi Kew,

Thanks for the greetings!

I am using one of them to my computer/desk setup with:
1. Monitor Audio Gold100 4th gen speakers
2. Creative x-fi Elite pro sound card
3. Sony WMS7 subwoofer (driver updated with a b&w ASW 600, decreasing the impedance to 4 ohm (from 8) + a 2nd order passive low filter 80hz) - very nice sub for 80$ including the swapped speaker

The other one is used with some Sony SS-F6000 tower speakers (had very nice base, but too boomy, and mids and highs were crap. I own them for more than 11 yrs) (upgraded as:

1. tweeter changed with wharfedale
2. Mid driver changed with infinity polyspherite
3. base (2) drivers replaced with a 6" Morel + a 6" Monitor Audio GX100 speaker
4. A custom crossover created by me and designed with VituixCAD2 (I can attach the file if you need it)
5. A BT receiver (30$) - HomeSpot NFC-Enabled Bluetooth Audio (from ebay) > works excellent, sometimes with small delay

The tower speakers are not that appealing, but I am thinking in the future to build a a case that just like the Monitor Audio Gold 300 series, painted in piano black. Overall they sound amazing, warm and crystal clear. Base is from abundance due to this receiver. Now, as I am thinking back, maybe even the original Sony's speakers wouldn't sound so boomy with this amp..who knows..

Attached some pictures.
Cheers!

 

[claman]

Small update for the one interested:
1. I have replaced all electrolytic caps from below section with Panasonic FMs(47/25) and Nichicon FGs(100/16,100/25), because the right channel relay would came on slight later than the left. After measuring all replaced caps were haywire and ultra high ESRs ??? I was WTF?:

Also the sound on the right channel was a little dimmed at lower volume. Hence exchanged the 100/10 from Amp board with ELNA SII. Also I added JUPITER RED 0.1 uF cap in parallel with the 4.7 uF coupling cap. Sound is fantastic, and now it's even. The right capacitor had ~ 85 uF and a slightly high ESR . The left one had ~ 90uF:

I used 0.1 uF in paralel cause replacing the whole cap with a FILM 4.7 x 2 would cost almost 60-100 Euros depending on the brand. So 2 x 0.1 cost me 25 Euros and sounds great.
Got inspired from this guy: https://www.psaudio.com/article/how-to-make-a-vintage-component-sing-again-part-ii/
The plan is to replace also 2 x 220/25 bypass caps with Nichicon MUSE or ELNA. will decide later.

Regards,
Claudiu M.

 

[Bill73]

I need help with my Teac AVH500. It driving me crazy, my right-hand side only sounds muddled, statics sound. Why!! It's definitely not the speaker or cable I've chance to new ones. Is it repairable and is it expensive to repair. Please if anyone has or had this issue.

 

[claman]

I need help with my Teac AVH500. It driving me crazy, my right-hand side only sounds muddled, statics sound. Why!! It's definitely not the speaker or cable I've chance to new ones. Is it repairable and is it expensive to repair. Please if anyone has or had this issue.

Hi Bil73,
AVH500 is a driven by 2 ICs. 1(IC51) is for L and R channels and the other one(IC52) for surround. Since you have sound on L channel and on the R there are some muddled static sound, I don't think the issue is with the IC and it should be easily repaired. Maybe a dead electrolytic cap, anything worth checking.
If you have a Voltmeter you should check to see if there is a small amount of voltage on the speaker output. As there is a single relay controlling L and R output, I doubt there is a short, but you have to check.

More than that, you should inspect the problematic line from the input to the output. I am attaching the repair manual link for your reference. If you are not into electronics, make sure you take it to someone that knows what he is doing.

Repair manual: https://elektrotanya.com/teac_av-h500d.pdf/download.html

Regards,
Claudiu

 

[Bill73]

Hi Bil73,
AVH500 is a driven by 2 ICs. 1(IC51) is for L and R channels and the other one(IC52) for surround. Since you have sound on L channel and on the R there are some muddled static sound, I don't think the issue is with the IC and it should be easily repaired. Maybe a dead electrolytic cap, anything worth checking.
If you have a Voltmeter you should check to see if there is a small amount of voltage on the speaker output. As there is a single relay controlling L and R output, I doubt there is a short, but you have to check.

More than that, you should inspect the problematic line from the input to the output. I am attaching the repair manual link for your reference. If you are not into electronics, make sure you take it to someone that knows what he is doing.

Repair manual: https://elektrotanya.com/teac_av-h500d.pdf/download.html

Regards,
Claudiu
[/QUO

 

[Bill73]

Omg Claudiu thanks for getting back to me, much appreciated. But I didn't thought no one would get back to me. To be honest I've not got a clue about the electronics and I would take it some that does. It's been driving me crazy so I thought I'd check out today if the left and right surround side work but unfortunately they don't so I wonder if this also connected to the original post? But the centre channel is working. I really don't want to buy another amplifier. I've had this system for a very long time now but is it worth getting it replaced or repaired? How much would it roughly cost to repair all together?

Kind regards Bill