First time DIY XO build, random questions

Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
The 100uF Cap is an electrolytic, non-polarized,
It's gonna eff up those chocolatey mids. :D

... but yeah, you just saved $65.

That would keep me awake at night though. Given how much work you're in for, the $65 might not be all that much but I do understand the size cosideration. You still haven't given us the specifics of the project so it's hard to see exactly how much of that xo board comes apart. I got lucky in finding a Weller Desoldering Tool used somewhere for not much money. It is a painfully slow process to clean up used parts. I'm glad that's behind me. I wasn't doing it for a learning exercise. I wanted the speakers as keepers so I felt I had quite a bit riding on the effort. The boards also ought to have the same layout with regards to inductor positioning. I'm reminded of my DIY'er re-do and I don't mean in a good way.

 
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ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
I got my DATS v3 loaded up and calibrated last night. Used that 6.5" Dayton Woofer I popped out of the cabinet for the calibration test. :)

Only a couple random parts to gather still. Then I'll get this pig kicked!

Cheers!
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
Eventually, following your experience with this Dayton woofer, you could get a lot of pleasure experimenting with one of their Reference Series subwoofers.
I would suggest the 12" RSS315HF drivers, either the 4 or the 8 ohm model, or their corresponding 15" driver.
Those are outstanding drivers. I have worked with them, and have come up with excellent 3-way cabinets with both sizes. They have a very smooth frequency response with low distortion. Since they have a low Q, they have to be used in ported boxes for best results, but they really provide an excellent musical performance. In my HT system, I am using RSS390HF-4 drivers for the front LCR cabinets.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I got my DATS v3 loaded up and calibrated last night. Used that 6.5" Dayton Woofer I popped out of the cabinet for the calibration test. :)

Only a couple random parts to gather still. Then I'll get this pig kicked!

Cheers!
I was going to follow along with your woofer tester process but just realized that I don’t know where I put my resistor. The tester has been sitting for about a year. It would be nice to get it figured out and get some use out of it finally.

I need some help getting dragged out of the Stone Age even though this is my only hobby.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
I was going to follow along with your woofer tester process but just realized that I don’t know where I put my resistor. The tester has been sitting for about a year. It would be nice to get it figured out and get some use out of it finally.

I need some help getting dragged out of the Stone Age even though this is my only hobby.
That's a 1k Ohm precision resistor which is necessary to obtain reliable values. I suggest that you contact Parts-Express. They should be able to ship you one.
Let me know how you make out with P-E.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
I was going to follow along with your woofer tester process but just realized that I don’t know where I put my resistor. The tester has been sitting for about a year. It would be nice to get it figured out and get some use out of it finally.

I need some help getting dragged out of the Stone Age even though this is my only hobby.
Fortunately for me, I have the newer version of DATS and the resistor is built in to the device!

I'm sending my OmniMic off to Cross Spectrum for a calibration check. Today or tomorrow. I mainly want to make certain it doesn't roll off too early, top or bottom.

Also deep diving into learning a modeling program. Admittedly this is taking my free time. I wanna use this project as a known quantity and be able to compare my modeling it as a "new design" against what I was given. If I can come out close to what the final product is supposed to be, then I get to pat myself on the back. :)
If I don't, I get to redo it! :p

Ordering the last electronic parts I want for the XO build after I pay down the old Credit Cards next week. I had a great opportunity to purchase some drivers I wanted for a different project and that tied up my resources. *sighs But I should have all my parts in house within two weeks!

Last little update is that I've been shopping routers. I decided I'm going to buy the Triton Plunge Router. Might be another month out on that, but it will allow me to push forward on my other wood projects (a bookshelf /cat platform which will replace the drafting table in my room), an Audio Rack, and a Stand for my Center BMR (which will be going upright instead of horizontal.

Wheee!
:D
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
That's a 1k Ohm precision resistor which is necessary to obtain reliable values. I suggest that you contact Parts-Express. They should be able to ship you one.
Let me know how you make out with P-E.
Mine is probably in the same case that has all the other audio measurement stuff for REW. The last thing I want to do is order a new one. I just don't like ordering stuff. Strange, I know. But I'll find mine once I get to looking.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
Mine is probably in the same case that has all the other audio measurement stuff for REW. The last thing I want to do is order a new one. I just don't like ordering stuff. Strange, I know. But I'll find mine once I get to looking.
You'll find it when you're looking for something else. :)
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Finally getting ready to move forward on this.
:rolleyes:
Ya, life gets in the way.

I’m laying out the XO boards and keep running into a situation with a 2mH steel laminate inductor and a .5mH air core in close proximity.
In light of the Air Core post earlier in this thread (Troels Gravesen’s guide) my question is how does a solid cores magnetic field operate?
Does the coil of the solid core inductor operate by the same principle, therefore allowing me to place an air core near and on its flat side (or near and standing upright at 90°.
I will post some photos in a moment to illustrate the question.
Thank you!
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
So first is just a rough placement... couple resistors and a cap are missing.


Then the two options I described above, spacing is about 1” (my index finger) and is about as far as I can move it on the rough in above.




Thoughts, please.
:)


Sent from a handheld device using a silly little app.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
Finally getting ready to move forward on this.
:rolleyes:
Ya, life gets in the way.

I’m laying out the XO boards and keep running into a situation with a 2mH steel laminate inductor and a .5mH air core in close proximity.
In light of the Air Core post earlier in this thread (Troels Gravesen’s guide) my question is how does a solid cores magnetic field operate?
Does the coil of the solid core inductor operate by the same principle, therefore allowing me to place an air core near and on its flat side (or near and standing upright at 90°.
I will post some photos in a moment to illustrate the question.
Thank you!
If you put 2 inductors close one from another, you definitely won't get a good result. But why use a steel laminate inductor when an a 2 mH air core coil is not that expensive? The air core inductor operates in a more linear fashion than the steel laminate and I was once shown proof of that at Solen's. Solen makes about the best air core inductors on the market and are used by some high end speaker manufacturers.

For all practical purposes, inductors should preferably be at least 2 inches apart. When inductors are a bit too close, one should be installed perpendicular to the other to counteract any possible interference.
 
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