moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 12, 2018 #1 I am mounting a sub with 1/4" hole in the outside frame of the sub driver and I am also using 1/4" cap head screws with T nuts as fasteners... My question is do I drill the hole 1/4" and then drill the other side of the hole in the baffle a little wider to accept the t Nut width OR Do I drill the width of the T nut (which is a little wider than 1/4") all the way through? (This will leave a little room around the 1?4" circumference of the screw.... Thoughts?
I am mounting a sub with 1/4" hole in the outside frame of the sub driver and I am also using 1/4" cap head screws with T nuts as fasteners... My question is do I drill the hole 1/4" and then drill the other side of the hole in the baffle a little wider to accept the t Nut width OR Do I drill the width of the T nut (which is a little wider than 1/4") all the way through? (This will leave a little room around the 1?4" circumference of the screw.... Thoughts?
J Jeff R. Audioholic General Dec 3, 2008 1,195 0 63 Cape Cod, MA Dec 12, 2018 #2 I don’t think think it will matter. I always install some insulating putty that you can buy from a hardware store to help seal windows along the seating face of the woofer. Just a very thin ring to compress for a little better seal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Reactions: moves
I don’t think think it will matter. I always install some insulating putty that you can buy from a hardware store to help seal windows along the seating face of the woofer. Just a very thin ring to compress for a little better seal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,879 0 113 Oakridge, OR Dec 12, 2018 #3 I drilled a hole so the t-nut fit snugly and added some glue in the hole to help seal the interface; I also greased the screw threads. I also tested each t-nut/screw to make sure they mated well (nothing like getting a combo that won't let you take it apart again ). Plus like Jeff says, use weather stripping or caulk rope or similar to help with sealing. Reactions: moves
I drilled a hole so the t-nut fit snugly and added some glue in the hole to help seal the interface; I also greased the screw threads. I also tested each t-nut/screw to make sure they mated well (nothing like getting a combo that won't let you take it apart again ). Plus like Jeff says, use weather stripping or caulk rope or similar to help with sealing.
moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 13, 2018 #4 Sounds good guys thanks for the input. What I did was I drilled the 1/4" all the way through and then turned the baffle over and drilled about 7/16" deep with 5/8" gap to fit the T nut in. I didn't actually install it yet but got the holes drilled. Tomorrow, I will give it a shot with a touch of epoxy on the botton side of the T nut.
Sounds good guys thanks for the input. What I did was I drilled the 1/4" all the way through and then turned the baffle over and drilled about 7/16" deep with 5/8" gap to fit the T nut in. I didn't actually install it yet but got the holes drilled. Tomorrow, I will give it a shot with a touch of epoxy on the botton side of the T nut.
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,879 0 113 Oakridge, OR Dec 13, 2018 #5 So your t-nuts are on the back side of the baffle?
moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 13, 2018 #6 lovinthehd said: So your t-nuts are on the back side of the baffle? Click to expand... Yes they are the 4 pronged ones. These ones here: http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=40361&cat=3,43715,43727
lovinthehd said: So your t-nuts are on the back side of the baffle? Click to expand... Yes they are the 4 pronged ones. These ones here: http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=40361&cat=3,43715,43727
moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 13, 2018 #7 What I should have done is recessed the T nuts in between the double baffle...... hmmmmm but then you have to worry about glue getting in the thread. Not a good idea I don't think after all...
What I should have done is recessed the T nuts in between the double baffle...... hmmmmm but then you have to worry about glue getting in the thread. Not a good idea I don't think after all...
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,879 0 113 Oakridge, OR Dec 13, 2018 #8 I meant whether on the front of the baffle (where the driver attaches) or on the rear of the baffle. I use mine on the front. My t-nuts are also the 4-prong type. The idea of putting them between baffle layers...no.
I meant whether on the front of the baffle (where the driver attaches) or on the rear of the baffle. I use mine on the front. My t-nuts are also the 4-prong type. The idea of putting them between baffle layers...no.
moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 13, 2018 #9 lovinthehd said: I meant whether on the front of the baffle (where the driver attaches) or on the rear of the baffle. I use mine on the front. My t-nuts are also the 4-prong type. The idea of putting them between baffle layers...no. Click to expand... If you put them on the back the nut will pull into the wood once the screw is tightened.
lovinthehd said: I meant whether on the front of the baffle (where the driver attaches) or on the rear of the baffle. I use mine on the front. My t-nuts are also the 4-prong type. The idea of putting them between baffle layers...no. Click to expand... If you put them on the back the nut will pull into the wood once the screw is tightened.
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,879 0 113 Oakridge, OR Dec 13, 2018 #10 moves said: If you put them on the back the nut will pull into the wood once the screw is tightened. Click to expand... I mentioned I tested the t-nut/screw? I installed them by pulling the t-nut into the baffle with the screws inserted from the back side until the glue set. Probably same difference in the end
moves said: If you put them on the back the nut will pull into the wood once the screw is tightened. Click to expand... I mentioned I tested the t-nut/screw? I installed them by pulling the t-nut into the baffle with the screws inserted from the back side until the glue set. Probably same difference in the end
moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 13, 2018 #11 lovinthehd said: I mentioned I tested the t-nut/screw? I installed them by pulling the t-nut into the baffle with the screws inserted from the back side until the glue set. Probably same difference in the end Click to expand... Well that way you are relying a lot on the glue to hold because the prongs would probably shake loose if there was no glue. With the t nuts installed from the back, I probably don't even need glue. A snug (not over tight) tightening should hold it in place. I did however screw up the baffle cut a little bit. Not terrible but a little bit off... I think it will work though. I had trouble cutting through the 3 inch MDF for the circle. My router couldn't go all the way through the 3 inches so I had some issues. I think I should have cut the baffle before the glue job. I'll document it in my other thread. Reactions: lovinthehd
lovinthehd said: I mentioned I tested the t-nut/screw? I installed them by pulling the t-nut into the baffle with the screws inserted from the back side until the glue set. Probably same difference in the end Click to expand... Well that way you are relying a lot on the glue to hold because the prongs would probably shake loose if there was no glue. With the t nuts installed from the back, I probably don't even need glue. A snug (not over tight) tightening should hold it in place. I did however screw up the baffle cut a little bit. Not terrible but a little bit off... I think it will work though. I had trouble cutting through the 3 inch MDF for the circle. My router couldn't go all the way through the 3 inches so I had some issues. I think I should have cut the baffle before the glue job. I'll document it in my other thread.
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,879 0 113 Oakridge, OR Dec 13, 2018 #12 moves said: Well that way you are relying a lot on the glue to hold because the prongs would probably shake loose if there was no glue. With the t nuts installed from the back, I probably don't even need glue. A snug (not over tight) should hold it in place. Click to expand... Good point. I've not had a t-nut come loose since taking more care for a snug fit and a bit of glue to help, tho (and making sure they screw/t-nut were a good match). But now the rear position is making more sense....will probably do that on the next one!
moves said: Well that way you are relying a lot on the glue to hold because the prongs would probably shake loose if there was no glue. With the t nuts installed from the back, I probably don't even need glue. A snug (not over tight) should hold it in place. Click to expand... Good point. I've not had a t-nut come loose since taking more care for a snug fit and a bit of glue to help, tho (and making sure they screw/t-nut were a good match). But now the rear position is making more sense....will probably do that on the next one!
moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 13, 2018 #13 lovinthehd said: Good point. I've not had a t-nut come loose since taking more care for a snug fit and a bit of glue to help, tho (and making sure they screw/t-nut were a good match). But now the rear position is making more sense....will probably do that on the next one! Click to expand... I see you replied before my edit I'll post some pics so you can see. Just not tonight lol. Tomorrow is Friday so I'll be back at it. Tomorrow, I'll install the nuts and maybe fit the baffle and glue to the cab. Here is a good video and instructions I found for installing t nuts: https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/blog/2017/08/25/install-t-nuts/ Reactions: lovinthehd
lovinthehd said: Good point. I've not had a t-nut come loose since taking more care for a snug fit and a bit of glue to help, tho (and making sure they screw/t-nut were a good match). But now the rear position is making more sense....will probably do that on the next one! Click to expand... I see you replied before my edit I'll post some pics so you can see. Just not tonight lol. Tomorrow is Friday so I'll be back at it. Tomorrow, I'll install the nuts and maybe fit the baffle and glue to the cab. Here is a good video and instructions I found for installing t nuts: https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/blog/2017/08/25/install-t-nuts/
moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 13, 2018 #14 oops I still would like to glue some rock wool to the interior... forgot about that. Gatta do that first before glueing the baffle. It should help reduce vibration.
oops I still would like to glue some rock wool to the interior... forgot about that. Gatta do that first before glueing the baffle. It should help reduce vibration.
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,879 0 113 Oakridge, OR Dec 13, 2018 #15 Been thinking about that rear mount thing...if when loosening one does become unseated that might be an issue....
Been thinking about that rear mount thing...if when loosening one does become unseated that might be an issue....
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,879 0 113 Oakridge, OR Dec 13, 2018 #16 moves said: oops I still would like to glue some rock wool to the interior... forgot about that. Gatta do that first before glueing the baffle. It should help reduce vibration. Click to expand... Just in case you hadn't seen: https://data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79 Reactions: moves
moves said: oops I still would like to glue some rock wool to the interior... forgot about that. Gatta do that first before glueing the baffle. It should help reduce vibration. Click to expand... Just in case you hadn't seen: https://data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79
moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 13, 2018 #17 lovinthehd said: Been thinking about that rear mount thing...if when loosening one does become unseated that might be an issue.... Click to expand... I guess it could and then you're screwed. BUT... I've done a test in the shop and hammered a T nut into some MDF and then tried to pry it out with a hammer and I couldn't. Adding the epoxy should be done just in case. As well as some anti seeze lub. This way, I am confident that it will hold.
lovinthehd said: Been thinking about that rear mount thing...if when loosening one does become unseated that might be an issue.... Click to expand... I guess it could and then you're screwed. BUT... I've done a test in the shop and hammered a T nut into some MDF and then tried to pry it out with a hammer and I couldn't. Adding the epoxy should be done just in case. As well as some anti seeze lub. This way, I am confident that it will hold.
moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 13, 2018 #18 lovinthehd said: Just in case you hadn't seen: https://data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79 Click to expand... Hm! Maybe I should only stuff it and not line it with the rock wool....
lovinthehd said: Just in case you hadn't seen: https://data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79 Click to expand... Hm! Maybe I should only stuff it and not line it with the rock wool....
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,879 0 113 Oakridge, OR Dec 14, 2018 #19 I bought this stuff to use https://www.amazon.com/Fairfield-10...4807512&sr=8-4&keywords=poly+filling+stuffing
I bought this stuff to use https://www.amazon.com/Fairfield-10...4807512&sr=8-4&keywords=poly+filling+stuffing
moves Audioholic Chief Nov 27, 2009 963 0 43 Dec 14, 2018 #20 Oh yea I got some of that from Parts Express.
