I agree with TLSGuy and others, 95% anyway that it's practically a moot point at best.
As mtry mentioned, ohm's law (okay let's include the power formula too) governs. If you buy an amp that can do 100W into 8 ohms, then as long as it is a well designed class AB amp, it will do around 125 to 150W into 4 ohms, obviously not continuously but for long enough to suit most music listening applications and a lot of speakers with dips to the 3 or 4 ohm range. Even my old Denon AVR-3805 that weighs 37 lbs 10 oz soak and wet had been tested to 2 ohms (even 1 ohm iirc) without going up in smoke and still able to put out close to 100W (again iirc).
So Phil, just re-read some of the S&V reviews on the AVR brands of the one you currently own and sleep well. Or be prepared to restrict your choices to the truly and literally "high current" amps that just keep doubling down (approximately) by Krell, Boulders etc.
Alternatively, you can also consider (or pretend) any mid range to flagship AVR as truly high current design if you de-rate them by a factor of 2 to 4. Example: A 140WPC Denon, de-rated (by you) to 50WPC will qualify as a truly high current amp, much truer than any HK AVR of the old days that were considered by many as high current amps, yet almost always get beaten by Denon's in S&V (HTM back then) by a good margin.