Stereo amps Vs AVRs

[killdozzer]

Yeah, it's not true I don't have bias, I think you can say that about nostalgic people, they have bias about old gears it's better than news thing, here I made the comparison between gears in the same range of price. For me it's like the nostalgic people who say for exemple Ford Mustang '67 it's steel better like many cars on out time(I talk about Mustang with original pieces, even if this are brand new). And don't get me wrong, Mustang '67 it's my dream too, but with the latest technologie.

I will make another comparison, which would be the average age of life in this days if the docs would use still in out days the old "gears", because in the end, the old scalpels cut just as good like the new ones, the only difference is in our day he have bipolar scalpel WHICH make a HUGE difference in some specific operations(I will not describe exactly in which one, this is another subject). And just was a simple comparison, we can find how many you want.

Best regards.

I was just kidding anyway. I wish you years of audio bliss, that goes without saying.

 

[whiplash]

I was just kidding anyway. I wish you years of audio bliss, that goes without saying.

I didn't take it badly And the explication wasn't for you, be sure about that And thank you very much for wishes, same to you!

 

[gzubeck]

If you did read better you could see the price for Lingdorf TDAI-2170 with HDMI card(1.4) is at the same price like the basic model. Told ya, a dealer make me this offert. And no, I didn't compare a $4k with a $1200. Go and read the article posted by Rich and you will understand better, that in case you want to admit the reality, if not, is up to you and to others who believe the same thing like you

I currently own a separate amp that is not an avr. It costs 1/10th what your willing to pay for a more sophisticated bit of kit. In a retail setting my amp would be $600+ and it performs as such. what your paying for is not entirely clear. Im not exactly playing with junk here as I have a $400 4490 Bifrost dac, $400 amp and a $60 preamp that is a total bargain. If I wanted to pay more I could but I don't want to pay for retail prices. All I can say is that it seems you think $$$$ will buy you a better solution. Were not stopping you but make sure your not paying for features you don't need and also find out what their return policy is before you make your purchase.

 

[whiplash]

I currently own a separate amp that is not an avr. It costs 1/10th what your willing to pay for a more sophisticated bit of kit. In a retail setting my amp would be $600+ and it performs as such. what your paying for is not entirely clear. Im not exactly playing with junk here as I have a $400 4490 Bifrost dac, $400 amp and a $60 preamp that is a total bargain. If I wanted to pay more I could but I don't want to pay for retail prices. All I can say is that it seems you think $$$$ will buy you a better solution. Were not stopping you but make sure your not paying for features you don't need and also find out what their return policy is before you make your purchase.

I appreciate you take care about my money

 

[KEW]

I was in the minority as voting for the AVR as having better sound.
My vote had nothing to do with the amp section and everything to do with the pre-amp section.
AVR's have excellent bass management features which are uncommon in an integrated amp. I also like the automated level and phase matching. I will leave Audyssey room EQ out of the discussion since it garners mixed opinions, but I do find Dynamic EQ nice when listening at low levels.
With current gear and a healthy budget, I like the idea of an AVR with an ECO mode (turned on to decrease the heat in the box) and an external power amp (to remove that heat from the AVR box) at least for the mains (if music is your emphasis) or front 3 for HT.
A good amp from the late 70's or later does the job perfectly well (if it has not fallen into disrepair). The science of amplification was well established at that point. Technology has come in the form of such developments as Class D and class G amps, but I am not aware of any profound improvements in the design of Class A or class A/B amps that would render a vintage unit inferior. If there were, all of the Electrical Engineers here would be pointing out the specific problems with them. Instead, there are EE's who are fans of vintage gear. So the analogy to automobiles is wrong. You will note that neither Class D nor Class G are considered to have better sound quality. Rather, they have good (audibly equal) performance for less money/ less heat/ less weight! The one case of getting better sound quality associated with Class D and G is the ability to get more watts out of household current, which does matter if you have very demanding speakers!
Automobiles are closer to AVR's (the pre section). They are complex with many systems and we have seen many changes/improvements in ignition systems, air intake systems, suspension design, weight reduction, durability & tolerances, to name a few; over the past decades

 

[lovinthehd]

No, the AVR will drive just the center speaker.

That wasn't the question. I am asking why you are going to use an integrated amp rather than a power amp....

 

[whiplash]

I was in the minority as voting for the AVR as having better sound.
My vote had nothing to do with the amp section and everything to do with the pre-amp section.
AVR's have excellent bass management features which are uncommon in an integrated amp. I also like the automated level and phase matching. I will leave Audyssey room EQ out of the discussion since it garners mixed opinions, but I do find Dynamic EQ nice when listening at low levels.
With current gear and a healthy budget, I like the idea of an AVR with an ECO mode (turned on to decrease the heat in the box) and an external power amp (to remove that heat from the AVR box) at least for the mains (if music is your emphasis) or front 3 for HT.
A good amp from the late 70's or later does the job perfectly well (if it has not fallen into disrepair). The science of amplification was well established at that point. Technology has come in the form of such developments as Class D and class G amps, but I am not aware of any profound improvements in the design of Class A or class A/B amps that would render a vintage unit inferior. If there were, all of the Electrical Engineers here would be pointing out the specific problems with them. Instead, there are EE's who are fans of vintage gear. So the analogy to automobiles is wrong. You will note that neither Class D nor Class G are considered to have better sound quality. Rather, they have good (audibly equal) performance for less money/ less heat/ less weight! The one case of getting better sound quality associated with Class D and G is the ability to get more watts out of household current, which does matter if you have very demanding speakers!
Automobiles are closer to AVR's (the pre section). They are complex with many systems and we have seen many changes/improvements in ignition systems, air intake systems, suspension design, weight reduction, durability & tolerances, to name a few; over the past decades

Everyone can have his opinion, for me the opinion of the person who is in charge on this website "weighs" more, and like I said I'm not satisfy by the sound which I have with Marantz SR6011.
And it's not about speakers. When I did my audition with DALI Zensor 7 (and Denon PM1120) which cost more than half price that Opticon 6 which I have now, I was stunned about the sound. Now, of corse they had an acoustically treated room, but still with better speakers it's a difference more than night and day.
Now Audissey, he's role is to correct how much he can't about the issues room, Am I right?
Maybe you didn't take a look about the class D amp which I'm looking for, but I can't tell you, there are no worth to do a comparaison between Audissey and PerfectRoom from Lyngdorf.
Just take a look.

 

[whiplash]

That wasn't the question. I am asking why you are going to use an integrated amp rather than a power amp....

Ah, sorry. Take a "better" look to the Lyngdorf TDAI-2170 and you will see he's capabilities.

 

[lovinthehd]

Ah, sorry. Take a "better" look to the Lyngdorf TDAI-2170 and you will see he's capabilities.

It's an integrated amp. I don't get your point....

 

[whiplash]

It's an integrated amp. I don't get your point....

Because my point is not to increase the power(even if power is directly connected with the quality sound, were the loudspeakers need power), it's even the quality sound. Take a look at the PerfectRoom, please, do it for me.

 

[lovinthehd]

Because my point is not to increase the power(even if power is directly connected with the quality sound, were the loudspeakers need power), it's even the quality sound. Take a look at the PerfectRoom, please, do it for me.

I'm familiar with RoomPerfect (and Dirac and Trinnov etc); what it's going to do for your multich setup from a 2ch integrated amp is where perhaps I'm confused on what you're putting together here.....

 

[whiplash]

Sorry again, but if I well understand, i want to use Lyngdorf for music and the AVR for movies.

 

[lovinthehd]

Sorry again, but if I well understand, i want to use Lyngdorf for music and the AVR for movies.

In the same system? How will you connect things? Or you have a separate 2ch system now?

 

[whiplash]

In the same system? How will you connect things? Or you have a separate 2ch system now?

No, I don't. I was think like that: to the integrate L/R speakers, the rest to the AVR. Not sure yet how to connect the blu-ray player to the integrate, HDMI or RCA or Optic. and integrate amp to AVR via pre-outs. It's ok like that, or it is there a better possibility?

 

[lovinthehd]

It's your system....I was asking you how you were doing it.

 

[ski2xblack]

...is there a better possibility?

Yeah, there is. Choose an amp based on the speaker load, sensitivity, and your listening habits. Choose a processor that can accommodate your ancillary gear and has the processing you prefer.

Duplicating amps and processing is redundant, excessive, and serves your Lyngdorf dealer more than your music collection or your ears.

I swear, audiophiles can over-complexify a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.

 

[whiplash]

It's your system....I was asking you how you were doing it.

Like I describe it. For blu-ray and integrate I will try all 3 option and see which one is the one who I will like more.

 

[whiplash]

Yeah, there is. Choose an amp based on the speaker load, sensitivity, and your listening habits. Choose a processor that can accommodate your ancillary gear and has the processing you prefer.

Duplicating amps and processing is redundant, excessive, and serves your Lyngdorf dealer more than your music collection or your ears.

I swear, audiophiles can over-complexify a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.

I already choice that amp based on the speaker load, sensitivity and my listening habits

 

[KEW]

No, I don't. I was think like that: to the integrate L/R speakers, the rest to the AVR. Not sure yet how to connect the blu-ray player to the integrate, HDMI or RCA or Optic. and integrate amp to AVR via pre-outs. It's ok like that, or it is there a better possibility?

The problem is (unless I'm missing something) how will you maintain balanced volume for HT without everything going through one pre-amp (be it an AVR or separate pre).

 

[whiplash]

The problem is (unless I'm missing something) how will you maintain balanced volume for HT without everything going through one pre-amp (be it an AVR or separate pre).

Well maybe I don't understand the question. But the integrated amp will drive the L/R speakers even for movies. He have that option for HT.

Or if it's not that the question, please explain it more empirically I'm not native english speaker.