Really Boring Stuff Only III: Resurrection

[fuzz092888]

For furniture, have you ever tried hand rubbed finishes?

He hand rubs and finishes all the time.

I thought I was better than that. I was wrong.

 

[TheWarrior]

He hand rubs and finishes all the time.

I thought I was better than that. I was wrong.

Was curious who would run with that, first

 

[TheWarrior]

Although, in that light, since Alex is missing, perhaps he really did 'run' with it...

 

[lsiberian]

So I'm watching Mash and the projector lamp makes a very loud cracking noise. I feared the worst, but thankfully the lamp simply went out. Now I'm trying the Prime lamps since the OSRAM one lasted less time than previous cheap one.

 

[Alex2507]

There's a shot of the Mahogany with a couple of planes right on top of it. Two coats of shellac one day and a steel wool rub down using mineral oil as a lube on the following day. The other stuff is a floor grade poly finish. I mean the poly is cool but it's a long cure which requires sanding, a mineral spirits bath and tack cloth wipe in between coats. Vertical surfaces are a b!tch. It's just that poly has so much time to run. Ugh ... but unmatched durability. The shellac is quicker and has the advantage of not being a film finish. Easy peasy touch up and doesn't require sanding in between coats. It's stunning from anywhere in the room and the light reflects differently from different angles showing like a holographic shift in the grain as you move around it.

Thanks for the spelling tips and finish rec.

 

[TheWarrior]

There's a shot of the Mahogany with a couple of planes right on top of it. Two coats of shellac one day and a steel wool rub down using mineral oil as a lube on the following day. The other stuff is a floor grade poly finish. I mean the poly is cool but it's a long cure which requires sanding, a mineral spirits bath and tack cloth wipe in between coats. Vertical surfaces are a b!tch. It's just that poly has so much time to run. Ugh ... but unmatched durability. The shellac is quicker and has the advantage of not being a film finish. Easy peasy touch up and doesn't require sanding in between coats. It's stunning from anywhere in the room and the light reflects differently from different angles showing like a holographic shift in the grain as you move around it.

Thanks for the spelling tips and finish rec.

I've never tried mineral oil with steel wool. I use 0000 with the Arm R Seal. Is there a chemical reaction with the oil, or does it help to collect some of that fine dust?

Tell me about that Stanley, it looks like its been cut in half! Looks intended to get into corners, and that mechanism on the front would hold it level on an edge, I'm guessing?

Been enjoying hand planing, myself! For my curly maple shelves, I did all planing, and then sprayed the wood with water to raise any grain, and then used a block sander and 220 to get the surface stain ready. Stain, and then pore sealing with Crystalac. Excellent product if you've ever used it. Dries clear, just needs buffing before top coat.

 

[Alex2507]

Actually the point is that there is no interaction with mineral oil and shellac. Maybe that's wrong. It doesn't allow the sanded or ground down shellac to stick to themselves and form clusters which would normally clog regular sand paper. Even with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper, mineral oil can be used instead of water. I picked up some Scotch pads. I can try them out on some shelf bottoms.

Stanley No. 39 1" Dado plane.See the little side cutters?

 

[TheWarrior]

Ah ha! That makes sense.

What do you use for sharpening? Surely you have a float glass. Ever tried Japanese Water Stones? The polish you can get with them is incredible. Gives the confidence to sharpen a Katana.

 

[Alex2507]

Ah ha! That makes sense.

What do you use for sharpening? Surely you have a float glass. Ever tried Japanese Water Stones? The polish you can get with them is incredible. Gives the confidence to sharpen a Katana.

For chisels and planes I use Arkansas Stones. They come in those little Cedar boxes. I've been stropping stuff too lately. Actually, I've got a plane to sharpen up before I head back to that shop.

All I've ever used is stones. I grew up on them as they say.

Gottsta get the plane out the truck. Never heard of a float glass.

 

[walter duque]

For chisels and planes I use Arkansas Stones. They come in those little Cedar boxes. I've been stropping stuff too lately. Actually, I've got a plane to sharpen up before I head back to that shop.

All I've ever used is stones. I grew up on them as they say.

Gottsta get the plane out the truck. Never heard of a float glass.

This is what I use for my kitchen knifes (BTW there are 22 cooks that use that same stone). Used one of these for about 15 years and seems to never wear out.
http://www.bestsharpeningstones.com/dmt/DMT_12inch_Dia_Sharp_With_Base.html

 

[psbfan9]

I've found, in my opinion, a better alternative to adblock+.

https://www.ublock.org/

Seems to block more ads, smaller footprint.

 

[TheWarrior]

For chisels and planes I use Arkansas Stones. They come in those little Cedar boxes. I've been stropping stuff too lately. Actually, I've got a plane to sharpen up before I head back to that shop.

All I've ever used is stones. I grew up on them as they say.

Gottsta get the plane out the truck. Never heard of a float glass.

Interesting. Do you oil the stone? Do your self a favor and discover camellia oil. It's a natural oil from the seeds of a tree. Natural corrosion/ rust inhibitor. Does NOT build up on wood and interfere with stains/finishes. Regular rubbings ;-) are a must for increased blade/bit life.

A float glass is 1/4" thick glass plate. Glass is a perfectly flat surface ideal for providing long strokes to speed up blade sharpening, but is a must for polishing the plane itself. Especially when the plane is bigger than the stones.

 

[Alex2507]

I've found, in my opinion, a better alternative to adblock+.

https://www.ublock.org/

Seems to block more ads, smaller footprint.

This better work.

 

[GO-NAD!]

Just came in from washing and waxing the truck. As I was heading out the door, my wife said:
"Do you know what day it is?"
"Ummm, nope."
"It's the 20th anniversary of our first date".
"Oh, OK. Happy Anniversary, Honey."
"You can go wax your truck now."

So I did....but I'm not sure that's what she meant me to do.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

This better work.

It does. A bit faster too, but sometimes blocks too much

 

[STRONGBADF1]

Just came in from washing and waxing the truck. As I was heading out the door, my wife said:
"Do you know what day it is?"
"Ummm, nope."
"It's the 20th anniversary of our first date".
"Oh, OK. Happy Anniversary, Honey."
"You can go wax your truck now."

So I did....but I'm not sure that's what she meant me to do.

She wants you to get a dog...

 

[fuzz092888]

Second to last day of the school year and last day of kids. Now to just wait for all the angry parent e-mails now that I've posted 4th quarter grades and final exam results.

Good times.

 

[fuzz092888]

Stopped at HD tonight to check out the DeWalt and the Bosch. The Bosch is 100 times more convenient with the up front controls and that glide is smooth as all get out. However, it commits some unforgivable sins. One thing that irritates me is that when you go outside of the detents, in order to lock it in the clamp is a screw type. However, when you start to torque it down, it jumps a few mm. With the DeWalt, you flip the clamp down it don't move an inch.

The other issue is that there is indeed a little play with the glider. I'm not sure that it would translate into a lot of deflection, but when compared the the DeWalt, it's not exactly awesome. I tightened the rear screw clamp on the DeWalt and I could basically hang from the thing and it didn't move. Looks like the choice is pretty clear.

 

[macddmac]

Stopped at HD tonight to check out the DeWalt and the Bosch. The Bosch is 100 times more convenient with the up front controls and that glide is smooth as all get out. However, it commits some unforgivable sins. One thing that irritates me is that when you go outside of the detents, in order to lock it in the clamp is a screw type. However, when you start to torque it down, it jumps a few mm. With the DeWalt, you flip the clamp down it don't move an inch.

The other issue is that there is indeed a little play with the glider. I'm not sure that it would translate into a lot of deflection, but when compared the the DeWalt, it's not exactly awesome. I tightened the rear screw clamp on the DeWalt and I could basically hang from the thing and it didn't move. Looks like the choice is pretty clear.

 

[TheWarrior]

The Kapex is an incredible beast. I couldn't be more happy with it! But yeah, its a hefty expense that you either can justify through its superior dust extraction, 3 axis (on each side) manual laser adjustment, the speed with which you can set up a bevel cut, or use the trench cut feature, or just be happy with a 10" base model Hitachi.

Seriously. If you can use the features, its worth it. But my 10" Hitachi costs practically nothing, and will likely never die, given what I saw my friend do to his tools.