So I detail cars...

[Speedskater]

What's the deal with the foam cannon?
I never saw anything like that before.

 

[Sheep]

What foam gun are you using?

Preferred product line?

I've been getting more involved in detailing my own vehicles (subscribed to Ammo NYC detailing on Youtube) but still learning the basics. My wife, with good intentions, got me that big 10" craftsman polisher for Christmas when I told her I was looking at them (specifically Porter Cable 7424xp).

My truck is similar in size to the Tundra plus in has a canopy on the bed so I know how long it takes to do a vehicle that big.

I have those Husky Weatherbeaters in my truck, they do a great job at saving the carpet (as do the weathertech mats).

This is the one I use.
http://www.eshine.ca/riccardo_foam_cannon-4005.php

Also worth noting is the pressure washer. If you have a Karcher, bin it. Buy the BE industrial electric one.
http://www.bepressure.com/index.php?mact=Products,cntnt01,details,0&cntnt01parent=1&cntnt01hierarchytemplate=homepage_products&cntnt01hierarchyid=8&cntnt01returnid=59&cntnt01sortby=f:sort_order&cntnt01productid=161&cntnt01returnid=59

As for Preferred product line, my outlook on this is much like the one I have in Audio (and most hobbies, as I find it's the best outlook to have). If it works, I use it. I don't have a specific brand that I'm loyal to, it's not like speakers matching when you're cleaning your car (aside from certain products designed to work as a multi-step solution, but this is more for waxes/sealants/coatings). Meguiars makes great polishes (Ultimate Compound is one of my may stays for light to medium correction). Auto Glym has a good AIO(all in one) polish (Super Resin Polish) but I'm actually about to test 4 different AIO polishes on my car and see which one does the best job. Waxes/Sealants/Coatings are where things get "snake oil" levels of messy. Lots of subjective conjecture about products on forums that can leave a newbie with their head spinning. I subscribe to the logic that if I want my car "Shiny" I will polish out the defects or fill them. I don't use a wax or sealant to improve my looks. Some waxes and sealants can clean paint, but if it's polished it won't do anything. This is a very touchy subject and one that could have me typing for 8 years. If you have some specific questions please reply or PM, I have a fair bit of experience now with this stuff and I could help you save yourself some time and money.

As for the polisher, the Porter is an excellent machine to start on. Super safe and relatively cheap, yet endlessly useful (I use it for paint and carpet cleaning). The polisher she bought you would be ideal for Liquid wax/sealant application and AIO use. It doesn't have enough power to break down polishes or work them hard enough (the pad needs to be rotating while orbiting, otherwise you're not working any polish). However, sealants and waxes need to be applied VERY thinly otherwise they don't cure properly, which is best done by machine (you can even use non-liquid products but it's slightly tricky).

Sheepstar

 

[Sheep]

What's the deal with the foam cannon?
I never saw anything like that before.

Foam Canons helps remove dirt from the paint without having to actually touch the paint. Now, this is very debatable as you can use a spray bottle to spray cleaner on the paint and blast it off with a pressure washer to a similar effect, but some cleaners will strip off the wax and they run off and dry faster then foam. Foam canons help the soap/cleaner cling to the paint, slowing the drip off rate and having a weaker cleaner sit on the paint and clean for longer. There is foam specific soaps that are designed for pre-wash (heavy cleaning) but you can use non heavy cleaning car soaps as well if you just want a light cleanse for a clean car. You also don't need a bucket if you just foam on your soap and distribute (although you should foam and rinse once to remove as much dirt as possible before touching the paint).

SheepStar

 

[JohnnieB]

Was that RX-7 a twin turbo? If so, that is one of the fastest cars I have ever driven. Flat torque curve throughout the rpm range is a hallmark of the rotary engine. Combine that with a twin turbo and the ability to put that to the pavement, and you got one seriously fun ride.
I spent 20+ yrs in dealerships bustin my knuckles, and I can tell you how much work a professional detail is worth. It can net you double the cost of the detail at sale time.
You look to be doing an awesome job, fine work.

 

[Speedskater]

Tell me more about floor mats and the polisher using a soft bristle brush.
We have Mazda 5 floor mats that are now white from all the road salt. I have had little luck getting the salt out.

 

[Sheep]

Was that RX-7 a twin turbo? If so, that is one of the fastest cars I have ever driven. Flat torque curve throughout the rpm range is a hallmark of the rotary engine. Combine that with a twin turbo and the ability to put that to the pavement, and you got one seriously fun ride.
I spent 20+ yrs in dealerships bustin my knuckles, and I can tell you how much work a professional detail is worth. It can net you double the cost of the detail at sale time.
You look to be doing an awesome job, fine work.

Yeah, it's an FD3S (twin turbo). Fun car for sure, but also a basket case. Stall it when it's cold? GG getting it started again.

I can easily rake in money detailing, but I have a day job, and it's just me. My turn around time is longer then a local shop, and I have less time to dedicate to detailing. It's a hobby first, a side job second.

SheepStar

 

[Sheep]

Tell me more about floor mats and the polisher using a soft bristle brush.
We have Mazda 5 floor mats that are now white from all the road salt. I have had little luck getting the salt out.

See my reply to 3dB about floor mat cleaning. If that doens't help you get your mats clean, buy new ones.

SheepStar

 

[herbu]

Sheep, very very nice... and right up my alley. Both our cars are 10 years old, but w/ less than 100k miles. Suppose we'll keep them as long as they are reliable. They look good, but could benefit from a detailing like you do. There are a number of places around here that advertise detailing, but I question how many of them go to the same lengths as you. When shopping for a detailer, what questions would you ask to help find a good one?

 

[Sheep]

Sheep, very very nice... and right up my alley. Both our cars are 10 years old, but w/ less than 100k miles. Suppose we'll keep them as long as they are reliable. They look good, but could benefit from a detailing like you do. There are a number of places around here that advertise detailing, but I question how many of them go to the same lengths as you. When shopping for a detailer, what questions would you ask to help find a good one?

There isn't many detailers where I live that detail like I do. One of the things with this type of detailing is you're not getting the car back the same day. It's a much more time intensive process, and the only way to make it faster, is to throw more bodies at a car. Also, detailers that perform this type of detailing will not be afraid to show it. A lot of the shops in the UK where this is most popular post of forums and show write ups of their work much like I do. I would start with basic questions about price and what you get for that price, most of the time they have packages on their websites which list what you get. The more detailed the list (as in explanations), the better chance they'll be doing it this way (plus if it's detailed you'll know what they're doing).

Now, you don't NEED to go this indepth to get a car looking good. If you're going to polsih the paint, technically you don't need to do such a gentle wash, but we/they take the time to be careful which means that the extra work and headache isn't seen as an inconvenience. That's the basic mentality of people who get to this level of detail, it's how they WANT the car cleaned. I often find my self doing extra steps not usually discussed on cars becasue I feel like it just needs to be done in order to achieve a level I want. My personal pride and image come into play and I'd rather do the extra step for free (usually nothing crazy) to give the reveal a whole new level.

I can only speak for myself, but a quick conversation with a detailer and a check of their work should show you how they go about things. Or, you could put a link in here and I can check it out.

SheepStar

 

[Sheep]

Another one to put up, from last summer. I'll try to really write out more explanations about what I am/was doing. Oh, it's another Mazda 3 (I seem to get a lot of 3s)

Initial Engine bay Condition.
DSC_5229 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

A nice even coat of crap.
DSC_5232 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Car isn't terribly "dirty" but it has an even layer, and there is some really nasty water spotting.
DSC_5233 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Rims were okay, and off a Mazda 5.
DSC_5234 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr
DSC_5236 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Foam time. APC sprayed to the lowers, badges, grills, emblems, and anywhere extra attention is required.
DSC_5247 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

No photos of the "wash" process but it's always the same. Clean all the jambs, engine, and panels, then clay.

Moving on to the mats.
DSC_5257 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Hot water, APC, Carpet soap, and some brush lovin'.
DSC_5258 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

And clean.
DSC_5259 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Here we start the paint work. Notice the water spots on the left side of the hood. These are very ingrained minerals from the rain water. Normally we don't have hard water so this much have been a long build up. A medium compound on a medium cutting pad (orange for those that want to know), was not taking it out in one hit. This here is after 2 passes, and I didn't have time for that. I stepped things up to a Micro Fiber pad and changed polishing methods from a zenith technique (work the polish lightly, ramp up, and them slow down) to the Kevin Brown method (apply large force and speed until defects are gone then slow and ease up for a last couple passes). The Kevin Brown method requires a SMAT style polish (SMAT is a Meguiars term). Basically, the compound does not break down, the abrasives are very small to start, and they stay that size. You adjust speed and pressure to adjust the cut. DAT (diminishing abrasive technology) are when the abrasives start large and break down over time. SMAT gives you the ability to cut hard, quickly, and finish better then a DAT compound of the same cut level. Usually, even heavy SMAT polishes can finish near wax perfect.
DSC_5263 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_5266 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Much Better.
DSC_5274 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Door by Door.
DSC_5278 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Polishing complete, Finished around 4:00am.
DSC_5288 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_5292 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_5295 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Exhaust tip polished with #000 steel wool and Mother Metal Polish. Then buffed with a cotton towel to give it a shine.
DSC_5299 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Yours truly.
DSC_5306 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

And after all the wax and tire shine and dressing is applied.
DSC_5331 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_5337 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_5346 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_5355 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Thanks for lookin!

SheepStar

 

[Adam]

I should fly you down here. You have a passport?

 

[Sheep]

I should fly you down here. You have a passport?

I do! I've got a bag and everything!

SheepStar

 

[Cos]

What foam gun are you using?

Preferred product line?

I've been getting more involved in detailing my own vehicles (subscribed to Ammo NYC detailing on Youtube) but still learning the basics. My wife, with good intentions, got me that big 10" craftsman polisher for Christmas when I told her I was looking at them (specifically Porter Cable 7424xp).

My truck is similar in size to the Tundra plus in has a canopy on the bed so I know how long it takes to do a vehicle that big.

I have those Husky Weatherbeaters in my truck, they do a great job at saving the carpet (as do the weathertech mats).

When I traded in my Infiniti, my carpet looked the same as new thanks to the WeatherTech Mats. I am debating on putting the clear bra on my new A5 Whats your take on the clear bra's will are they worth it or will they damage the paint? I am looking at the Xpel Ultimate, and do I need to do the whole hood I was only going to do the front grill and front hood?

 

[Sheep]

When I traded in my Infiniti, my carpet looked the same as new thanks to the WeatherTech Mats. I am debating on putting the clear bra on my new A5 Whats your take on the clear bra's will are they worth it or will they damage the paint? I am looking at the Xpel Ultimate, and do I need to do the whole hood I was only going to do the front grill and front hood?

Clear bras are fine, but they have a life cycle and should be removed at the end. If not, they can start to damage the paint and look like crap.

Also, get ready to polish as the paint under the brah will be perfect and the rest will show it's age.

SheepStar

 

[Cos]

Thanks for the tip, I usually don't keep my cars past 4 years, so I think the lifespan is usually 5.

 

[Sheep]

beautiful work Sheep. Really like it. Question, how do you get hardened salt stains out of car mats and out of the foot well? I can nwver get the carpet to lift after salt has hardened. I've tried warm vinegar with a soft wire bristle on those spots.

I just stumbled upon this product when looking for specials. might be worth a try, very cheap too.

http://www.eshine.ca/krown_salt_eliminator_30_off-8006.php?cat=81

SheepStar

 

[Soccerkid830]

Having worked with GM's paint/polymer engineering group identifying paint defects, the problem I see when polishing the cars so nicely like that is you can see the orange peel so well, it's almost annoying. Maybe one day car companies will get better at matching fascia and body panel colors and/or reducing orange peel out of the paint shops and the cars will look even nicer!

You do great work, those cars look right off the line.

 

[Matt34]

That's a ton of man hours on that Mazda. That paint correction alone is a $300-400 job. Wish I could take photos like you, makes for an awesome portfolio!

Brian,

I'm actually going to a 3-day detailing seminar in a couple months, I'm in the beginning stages of starting a mobile detailing business.

 

[3db]

I just stumbled upon this product when looking for specials. might be worth a try, very cheap too.

http://www.eshine.ca/krown_salt_eliminator_30_off-8006.php?cat=81

SheepStar

I willl give it a try this spring. I wonder if "Crappy Tire" carries it.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

I wished you lived near me. I spend a ton of money keeping my car clean. Are you Opti-Coat certified/dealer?