So I detail cars...

Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
That's a ton of man hours on that Mazda. That paint correction alone is a $300-400 job. Wish I could take photos like you, makes for an awesome portfolio!

Brian,

I'm actually going to a 3-day detailing seminar in a couple months, I'm in the beginning stages of starting a mobile detailing business.
I've thought about going mobile (I'm a side job after all, not my main income) but the dollars to have a water tank, and vehicle that can move it around and hold all the stuff (plus a genreator) is not worth it. I have detailed on location before, but it's using their water, their power, and their dry space.

When it comes to learning there is no better way then hands on. I did it slow over like 5 or 6 years trying it myself, buying everything myself, and using my own vehicles. There is a lots you'll get on the first try, and other stuff that takes a bit of understanding. I am about to take on a 1965 Corvette in March which is causing me to poop my pants, as I've never polished fiberglass ebfore, let along on a car as priceless as that.

Here is a great detailing guide to Orbital Polishing, when you're done with that check out Kevin Brown Method polishing, it's the best way to polish with a DA Polisher.
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859

Kevin Brown Method
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=136884

SheepStar
 
Matt34

Matt34

Moderator
Not that I can used any of this at the moment (8-12" of snow) and still snowing.....

Still waiting on some brushes and some more pads for the DA.

 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Not that I can used any of this at the moment (8-12" of snow) and still snowing.....

Still waiting on some brushes and some more pads for the DA.

Looking good! In the future, clay lubricant isn't super necessary. It's nice, but a strong soap concentration works as well. Watch Duragloss 105, it stains pads pretty fierce apparently.

I'm just taking a lunch break from a detail as I type,2003 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi. Going to be a long day.

SheepStar
 
C

chas_w

Full Audioholic
Fantastic work, and great photos. What kind of camera/lenses do you use?

For a quick hand wash and polish/sealant without buffers etc, which soaps, polishes and waxes would you recommend? I've always just used a bucket and mitt with turtle wax car wash...probably the best results I've had with wax was collinite though I stopped using it since liquid wax made the job much quicker and easier. Unfortunately the paint on my two old cars is getting a little dry and gritty and will need a little extra attention in spring.
 
Matt34

Matt34

Moderator
Looking good! In the future, clay lubricant isn't super necessary. It's nice, but a strong soap concentration works as well. Watch Duragloss 105, it stains pads pretty fierce apparently.

I'm just taking a lunch break from a detail as I type,2003 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi. Going to be a long day.

SheepStar
It was cheaper to get the lub as a package deal with the bars than to buy the bars separately.

As soon as it warms up and stops snowing going to use the wife's car as a test dummy for it all.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Fantastic work, and great photos. What kind of camera/lenses do you use?

For a quick hand wash and polish/sealant without buffers etc, which soaps, polishes and waxes would you recommend? I've always just used a bucket and mitt with turtle wax car wash...probably the best results I've had with wax was collinite though I stopped using it since liquid wax made the job much quicker and easier. Unfortunately the paint on my two old cars is getting a little dry and gritty and will need a little extra attention in spring.
Firstly, the brand isn't more important then the technique. If you use the right brand wrong, it'll be worse then the wrong brand right, if that makes sense. They way I detail is far more in-depth then normal people need to do, below is the steps I would use to do a basic wash with minimal tools and products.

1.) Rinse vehicle down. If you have a pressure washer use it (electric only, and make sure it's not super strong). Pay attention to panel intersections, grills, badges, anywhere 2 pieces meet. Wheel wells and wheels should be rinsed as best as possible before using soap as well, to save the soap for the harder to remove debris.

2.) Pre-wash the car with an APC (All Purpose Cleaner). This should be a car specific cleaner as they are designed not to harm finishes. Follow the dilution instructions to the letter, they know how to use their own product. Apply this product to the lower half of the vehicle, wheels, anywhere with heavy dirt and stains. Front bumpers and wheel wells will need this after road trips for bug removal.

3.) Once the pre wash is applied, go around with a small round brush like a paint brush (again, detailing/car specific, they are a safe bet not to mar the finish) and clean any nooks and crannies a wash mitt won't clean. PAY ATTENTION TO THE PRE-WASH! If it is drying re hydrate it and stay on top of that, some pre-washes will stain if they dry.

4.) Once you've gone around the whole car, rinse with pressure and remove all the pre-wash and debris that comes with it. Pay attention to the soap residue. Do not leave any pre-wash on the car.

5.) Clean wheels. Using a wheel cleaner and appropriate brushes, clean the wheels and tires. Again, follow the instructions on usage and use the right tools. Brushes and Mitts used on wheels should no be used on paintwork, as brake dust has metallic particles and even the best rinsing job will not get it all out.

6.) Wash the car with hte 2 bucket method. This is a simple trick to help keep the soap clean and stop you from rubbing dirt back into the paint. Fill 2 equal buckets with water and only apply the car soap (car specific) to one. This this best for cleaning the paint, and then rinse the mitt in the other. Ring out he mitt before putting it in the clean bucket for the next panel. WATCH THE PANELS! Make sure the soap isn't drying, if so rinse it off and work in small sections.

7.) Clay the car. Clay bars level off embedded dirt in the paint and smooth it out for the wax process. You will need HOT water, a bucket for said water, and a lube solution. You can use clay lubricant but a strong mixture of car wash soap works too and is ore economical money wish. For a beginner it's best to use the solutions, as you can buy it all in a kit.

Claying is something that is the beginning of an advanced practice. Once you do it once you'll get it, but the first time can be a bit difficult. Working in partial panels, wet a section and apply lubricant. Do not work in sunlight for now. Heat up a chunk of clay in the hot water and flatten out a 2 inch or so round piece and put it in the palm of your hand. Rub it on the paint making sure there is lots of lubricant. You will feel the clay smoothing out the roughness and gripping, making a slight sanding sound that eventually disappears once the paint is smooth. Work in sections and rinse each section after done.

8.) At this point you can apply your wax. Make sure the panels are not hot, or super cold. Cool to luke warm is best. Some waxes like a long cure time on the paint, with another 12-24 hours after removal to breath. It's best to read the instructions and follow time directions the manufacture states. Tape up brake trim with painters tape to avoid white staining it.

Until specific products are in the picture, this is just a basic guideline. If you have products you're interested in list them and I can try to find information or guide you on how to use them.

SheepStar
 
C

chas_w

Full Audioholic
A lot of great tips...even the simple 'use two buckets' is something I've never done. And I do have an electric pressure washer but have never used it on the cars. I'm interested in the clay bars...definitely sounds like what my gritty paint needs.

How about cleaning the engine? Products, techniques, precautions?

Thanks for the detailed response...best basic car wash instructions I've ever seen. How did the Ram turn out?
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
A lot of great tips...even the simple 'use two buckets' is something I've never done. And I do have an electric pressure washer but have never used it on the cars. I'm interested in the clay bars...definitely sounds like what my gritty paint needs.

How about cleaning the engine? Products, techniques, precautions?

Thanks for the detailed response...best basic car wash instructions I've ever seen. How did the Ram turn out?
If there is some thing specific you want clarified I can do a write up with photos for you to see what the step by step looks like. I don't normally take photos of HOW to do it when I detail, as people generally want to see the results more.

Engine bays are something that is tricky, and not, at the same time. It all boils down to YOUR engine. Some manufactures engines require a few precautions before wetting, while others are fully game right out of the box. What car do you have? I use my APC (Auto Valet Purple Power) diluted around 10:1 for engines, with a small brush and mitt to work the underside of a hood. Sometimes I foam the engine before hand but it's not necessary. The engine should not be hot, but warm helps it clean up. It's hard to gauge but you should be able to touch anything without discomfort. Anything that is water sensitive will need to be wrapped up and AVOIDED with the hose/pressure washer. Unless you vacuum seal it I wouldn't point water at it.

First, wet the engine down. Pressure washers help you remove loose dirt so the soap can focus on the rough stuff. Keep a distance of at least a foot to help from water ingress into parts water shouldn't be in.

After wetting the engine, apply your cleaner to anything and everything you want cleaned, most engines don't clean up with just a rinse. You'll need to agitate most things heavily as well and rinse thoroughly as soap residue in an engine can lead to stains. Now, my APC doesn't damage anything on engines, included belts, It actually restores the factory finish on plastics. This is something you'll need to research before choosing a brand of cleaner

DO NOT LET YOUR CLEANER DRY.

Once rinsed THOROUGHLY, dry the engine. Leaf Blower, Compressed air, output side of a shop vac, doesn't matter. You MUST remove the water that is standing and give it some time before starting just to be safe.

This is when you can dress the engine. Personally I believe Armour all works just fine, is cheap, and can be applied easily. Grab a crappy rag (I use old microfibers) and spray one side (fold it into quarters). Grip any hose in the engine and rub it in. The rag needs to have a lot of Armour all on it to work it's way into the plastics and any black trims. You can spray it on the parts them selves but metal pieces are best left untouched. Hoses and trims are where this works best.

If you're super anal (Like me) you can wax your painted sections with a cleaner type wax to help them clean up easier next time. This would be the underside of a hood and fenders on the sides. It helps with shine and removes some the of embedded dirt washing can't remove. Use a cheap disposable foam applicator and throw it out after, it'll be wrecked.

Hope that helps,

SheepStar
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
A lot of great tips...even the simple 'use two buckets' is something I've never done. And I do have an electric pressure washer but have never used it on the cars. I'm interested in the clay bars...definitely sounds like what my gritty paint needs.

How about cleaning the engine? Products, techniques, precautions?

Thanks for the detailed response...best basic car wash instructions I've ever seen. How did the Ram turn out?
As for the Ram...

DSC_7812 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7813 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7815 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7817 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7821 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7829 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7840 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7851 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7865 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

SheepStar
 
C

chas_w

Full Audioholic
Engine bays are something that is tricky, and not, at the same time. It all boils down to YOUR engine. Some manufactures engines require a few precautions before wetting, while others are fully game right out of the box. What car do you have?...
Thanks again for the detailed advice...very helpful. I have a couple of 2005 Toyota's - a 4 cyl Camry and 6 cyl Highlander.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Thanks again for the detailed advice...very helpful. I have a couple of 2005 Toyota's - a 4 cyl Camry and 6 cyl Highlander.
You shouldn't have problems with those, it's MAINLY cars with distributors that have immediate water problems. Avoid fuse boxes as well though just to be safe.

SheepStar
 
Speedskater

Speedskater

Audioholic General
So today the temperature got to about 61F (16C) and held that temperature past sundown. First time it's been that warm since November 30. With my house only 400 feet from a crushed-ice Lake Erie, on most days like this, a sea breeze kicks in early in the afternoon and drops the temperature a bunch.

So to celebrate our one day of spring (it may snow on Sunday) I washed both cars. Didn't have any of the good stuff that SheepStar suggested, so I made do with what I used last summer.

I think that I'll print out his notes and keep them by the car washing stuff.

Next semi-warm day I'll clean-out the Grand-kids disaster zone in the interior.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
If you need help just post up or message me.

SheepStar
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
I have one more in the cards, this time we have a Honda Civic Hybrid. I tried to take during photos but the rains started up and I was strapped for time. I will get a thorough how to detail documented soon, but I have a few details coming up where time is a factor.

Enjoy!

DSC_7895 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7896 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7897 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7898 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

Finished shots.

DSC_7920 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7926 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7950 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

DSC_7968 by brianjosephson1, on Flickr

SheepStar
 
C

Chu Gai

Audioholic Samurai
What do you recommend when the interior of a car smells funky, almost as if it was wet and got moldy, yet to your knowledge there was never any water damage? To further complicate matters, there's no readily apparent way to isolate the source.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Shampoo everything. Cleaning is what gets rid of the smell, without a cleaner you won't be doing anything but covering it up.

Oh, and don't shampoo the headliner, it doesn't like any water.

SheepStar
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
I use extractor soap in the machine, and my All Purpose Cleaner on spots. Extractor soap is nice because it's low foaming, meaning you have less crap to suck/blot up. I would highly suggest getting an extractor, even the cheap bissel one is great (it's all I use). Just getting the excess water out will help with cleaning and especially drying times. Don't forget that seats just very dirty as well and cam be a large source of smell. Cloth seats shampoo well and something like a heat dish and a fan can dry the interior very quickly.

All purpose Cleaner.
http://autovalet.ca/product_details.html?code=A330&page=page-1

X-tract.
http://autovalet.ca/product_details.html?code=A210&page=page-1

You can also use any branded carpet cleaning solution designed for an extraction machine, but automotive specific ones generally work better and a targeted for the type of dirt and materials you see in a car. I have had good results with both.

SheepStar
 

Latest posts

newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top