Entertainment Center

Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
Yes, as fuzz said, there are no feet.

I'll have to check the dimensions on my front ported SC, but I think the depth & height is the same as the rear ported SC. Only the width is different.

If you make the center speaker small with high pass set at 80 Hz, sound from the ports should not be an issue. I say should because I don't know this for certain.
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
If you want I can do a little experimenting this weekend and see how different crossovers and distances from the back wall work together.
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Oh college, how I wish I remembered you :D
I remember college better than I do yesterday. Stupid aluminum and artificial sweeteners. Yeah, they might be scapegoats, but I'm not about to blame my precious beer... :)
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Jim salk told me that, ideally, the song center needs at least 18 inches from the wall to the back. The rear ported one that is. Also, there are no feet.
Yes, as fuzz said, there are no feet.

I'll have to check the dimensions on my front ported SC, but I think the depth & height is the same as the rear ported SC. Only the width is different.

If you make the center speaker small with high pass set at 80 Hz, sound from the ports should not be an issue. I say should because I don't know this for certain.
No feet ?!? :confused: I may need me some of those Mo-Pads. Probably a good idea as my shelf is a slide out deal that isn't 100% rock solid. There's no way I can do 18" out plus 12" speaker depth. I just checked and the max I can get is 8" to the back of the speaker but even that seems a stretch considering the 27 lb weight. Maybe I'll get some bright ideas along the way ... or just get a Bose system. :D

If you want I can do a little experimenting this weekend and see how different crossovers and distances from the back wall work together.
I think the time would be better spent drinking heavily. :)

I cross at 80 Hz anyway and my distance will be minimally variable. There aren't a lot of options that I'm willing to consider anymore. I've already decided on a path and change would require a major fail. Let's hope it doesn't come to that.
 
STRONGBADF1

STRONGBADF1

Audioholic Spartan
I've already decided on a path and change would require a major fail. Let's hope it doesn't come to that.
I have a feeling you've uttered this more then once in your past.:p
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
No feet ?!? :confused: I may need me some of those Mo-Pads. Probably a good idea as my shelf is a slide out deal that isn't 100% rock solid. There's no way I can do 18" out plus 12" speaker depth. I just checked and the max I can get is 8" to the back of the speaker but even that seems a stretch considering the 27 lb weight. Maybe I'll get some bright ideas along the way ... or just get a Bose system. :D



I think the time would be better spent drinking heavily. :)

I cross at 80 Hz anyway and my distance will be minimally variable. There aren't a lot of options that I'm willing to consider anymore. I've already decided on a path and change would require a major fail. Let's hope it doesn't come to that.
If I am reading this correctly the 18" separation from the rear wall is for a rear ported design so maybe a different design is in order for the center channel . Lets see some more pics and the progress report, please.
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
I haven't done any music listening, but for movies and music 4" sounds fine as does 8".
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
Hey, if it's important to have the ports 18" from the wall, just flip the speaker back to front.:D
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
If I am reading this correctly the 18" separation from the rear wall is for a rear ported design so maybe a different design is in order for the center channel . Lets see some more pics and the progress report, please.
I guess I'll start here. I moved that switch.



Here it is in the bigger picture. It's the closet light switch and positioned where it was it always ended up behind something. At first I installed a light fixture with a pull string but it just seemed like an amateur solution to a simple problem.



Now on the other side you can see where I tapped into the overhead lighting circuit at that switch and I tapped into the neutral from the Recessed Media Plate that I installed a surge protected duplex receptacle into. That's what I wanted to ask Rick about. Is that allowed? That's the two Romex hanging on the right. One has the hot and the other has the neutral. I want to use that overhead lighting circuit to power up a couple of lights that I would install into a sofit that I will eventually build over the seating/viewing position.



This is going a little backwards now but here's the terminated receptacles in the Media Wall Plate and the gray receptacles on the left in the wall will eventually make their way into the entertainment center. Notice the TV is hanging on the wall with the studs cut as opposed to laying on the floor with a cracked screen? Yep, I'll be taking all the credit fort that.



The shelf mock up: it needs a modification but this is the idea. Fully Extended:



In the retracted position:



I know that's a lousy group of photo's but I don't have the time to clean up and have it all make better sense. I got to get some fire stops cut up and notched out and that shelf need mods and I gotsta get to Eddie's.
 
adk highlander

adk highlander

Sith Lord
Looking good. Nice to see the progress. How many weeks until you get get to Eddie's?;)
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Looking good. Nice to see the progress. How many weeks until you get get to Eddie's?;)
Weeks ?!? No, dude. I have left that life behind. Hours, it's a matter of hours.

I had to charge my A/C and do my laundry ... it's a kind of bisexuality ... but if it wasn't for that I'd be there now.

I'm almost out. Just gotta dry and fold. 1 hour.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Alex, on the electrical, where are you pulling your hot from? It does not sound like you are simply adding another outlet to the circuit path here. You should be pulling Hot, neutral, & ground all from the same line coming in. Have you also checked first what the total load would be on the circuit both prior to and after your new out let would be added??

Do you have easy access to your panel and can anew line be run relatively easy? My first recommendation, panel size willing, would be to add a dedicated 20 amp line to your outlet on its own breaker.

I guess I'll start here. I moved that switch.



Here it is in the bigger picture. It's the closet light switch and positioned where it was it always ended up behind something. At first I installed a light fixture with a pull string but it just seemed like an amateur solution to a simple problem.



Now on the other side you can see where I tapped into the overhead lighting circuit at that switch and I tapped into the neutral from the Recessed Media Plate that I installed a surge protected duplex receptacle into. That's what I wanted to ask Rick about. Is that allowed? That's the two Romex hanging on the right. One has the hot and the other has the neutral. I want to use that overhead lighting circuit to power up a couple of lights that I would install into a sofit that I will eventually build over the seating/viewing position.



This is going a little backwards now but here's the terminated receptacles in the Media Wall Plate and the gray receptacles on the left in the wall will eventually make their way into the entertainment center. Notice the TV is hanging on the wall with the studs cut as opposed to laying on the floor with a cracked screen? Yep, I'll be taking all the credit fort that.



The shelf mock up: it needs a modification but this is the idea. Fully Extended:



In the retracted position:



I know that's a lousy group of photo's but I don't have the time to clean up and have it all make better sense. I got to get some fire stops cut up and notched out and that shelf need mods and I gotsta get to Eddie's.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
You should be pulling Hot, neutral, & ground all from the same line coming in.
Rick has been working with me on this and straightened me out on that score too. I was trying to pull a neutral from the LR circuit for the pre-switch hot on the overhead lighting circuit that is my BR closet light. I'm going to have to open up my closet ceiling for that move. Bummer but it's only a closet.

Have you also checked first what the total load would be on the circuit both prior to and after your new out let would be added??
The real load would be unchanged from before the addition of the outlet behind the TV but I haven't calculated what that is. All the same stuff will go onto that circuit.

The overhead lighting circuit will see some additional lighting ... later on. Right now I just want to be able to tap into that circuit for future use. I'll figure out the particulars for that then.

Do you have easy access to your panel and can anew line be run relatively easy? My first recommendation, panel size willing, would be to add a dedicated 20 amp line to your outlet on its own breaker.
I'd have to tear into more ceiling than I'm prepared to patch and paint to add a 20 Amp breaker. Things have been working fine for years on the 15 amp breaker that the LR system is currently on.

Thanks for keeping an eye on me. Somebody has to. :eek: :D
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
It's Home

It's actually in the house but the face is in the hall. Here's the pic's I snapped before I wore myself out ... this is my break.







I would like it better if I wasn't sweating like a pig and if the hallway wasn't crammed full of stuff that I gotta drag in here and if I didn't have to run that truck back and go to the market but all in all ... I'll take it.
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
C'mon man get that all done so you can complete the setup :D

Looks great so far though. So you'll have fans on both sides and two fans under the top? More fans in the back or just open?
 

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