Yamaha RX-V6A/TSR-700 views?

Gmoney

Gmoney

Audioholic Samurai
Well a couple quick first impressions. Having some issues with the second subwoofer output, it only works if you set amp config to 5.1.2, not sure if this is a bug or if I'm missing something but need it to work wtih the "basic" config.

I'm really not a fan of the knobs, the action on them is great and smooth but the knobs themselves feel really cheap. They have this sharp rim around them and just feel like really cheap plastic. Why do so many AVR's get this wrong? It's the only thing you intaract with on the receiver and it's the first thing I play with at the store. If I were shopping for a receiver and felt those knobs I would have probably passed this receiver by.

Sound quality actuaally seems quite nice, it's got that clean neutral Yamaha sound . I haven't gotten to test too much on it yet but so far it sounds good.
All good with my RX-V6A, it's been running almost 24/7 since I got it last week.
 
D

D4v3

Enthusiast
All good with my RX-V6A, it's been running almost 24/7 since I got it last week.
Do you have two subs installed? If so, any issues with the second sub output?

What do you think of the knobs? I franky detest them, so far it's my number one reason to rerturn this thing - I never want anyone to touch them.
 
Gmoney

Gmoney

Audioholic Samurai
Do you have two subs installed? If so, any issues with the second sub output?

What do you think of the knobs? I franky detest them, so far it's my number one reason to rerturn this thing - I never want anyone to touch them.
Yes I have two subs, no issues both outputs work. As for the knobs, I'm ok with them Kinda reminds me of those old H/K AVR's like the H/K 3600 I had back in 2011
 
D

D4v3

Enthusiast
Yes I have two subs, no issues both outputs work. As for the knobs, I'm ok with them Kinda reminds me of those old H/K AVR's like the H/K 3600 I had back in 2011
I'm going to have to do some more experimenting with the subs.

Can't stand these knobs though, I cringe every time I feel that sharp edge and the cheap thin plastic feel.

Dave
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Chief
I hear you about the sharp edge on that thing, but I was too pissed off about everything else wrong with it to pay it much mind. It's silly how much it costs to get a good knob.;) Seriously though, McIntosh knobs are still the gold standard. Things of beauty those. They look and feel great.
 
Gmoney

Gmoney

Audioholic Samurai
I'm going to have to do some more experimenting with the subs.

Can't stand these knobs though, I cringe every time I feel that sharp edge and the cheap thin plastic feel.

Dave
So far all's good with my RX-V6A, some are having issues with "banding" but than I don't have a Apple tv or a XBox or PS4. I came very close to getting Denons 3600 really nice AVR just decided to get another V6A got it straight from a Yamaha Distribution center out of Texas. Plus at a price I couldn't pass up.
 
P

psrmexican

Audiophyte
Hi y'all, it looks like a lot of great info is being shared on this thread; hoping that this question is helpful for others as well.
Just tried hooking up the Series X to the V6A and my TV (Samsung QN65Q6FNAF) this morning, but wasn't able to get 4K working. I removed the V6A from the equation (i.e., Xbox connected directly to the TV) and that allowed me to get 4K coming out of the Series X. This leads me to believe I haven't found the right settings with the V6A and the TV. Anyone else running into something similar? I remember having to do some finagling to get the Nintendo Switch to work.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: Should add, Series X is connected to V6A with cable that comes in the box; V6A is connected to the TV with an HDMI cable I already had. 4K worked when Series X was connected directly to TV with this cable I already had.
 
D

D4v3

Enthusiast
Hi y'all, it looks like a lot of great info is being shared on this thread; hoping that this question is helpful for others as well.
Just tried hooking up the Series X to the V6A and my TV (Samsung QN65Q6FNAF) this morning, but wasn't able to get 4K working. I removed the V6A from the equation (i.e., Xbox connected directly to the TV) and that allowed me to get 4K coming out of the Series X. This leads me to believe I haven't found the right settings with the V6A and the TV. Anyone else running into something similar? I remember having to do some finagling to get the Nintendo Switch to work.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: Should add, Series X is connected to V6A with cable that comes in the box; V6A is connected to the TV with an HDMI cable I already had. 4K worked when Series X was connected directly to TV with this cable I already had.
I don't have a series X so I'm not sure what options you have but there is an issue with these receivers and HDMI 2.1. All current receivers that support HDMI 2.1 (from all brands) use the same chipset which doesn't recognize the signal output by current HDMI 2.1 source devices. If there are options to turn off HDR or limit fps to 60 then perhaps those could help.

Failing that, your best option may be to simply connect it to your tv and use eARC for the audio, not a great soltuion but it should work. There may be other settings that I'm unaware of though, perhaps someone else will be able to help, or contact Yamaha.
 
P

psrmexican

Audiophyte
Thanks D4v3. Re: that issue with the chipset, I double checked that I was selecting 60Hz, so that much I can confirm. I'll try turning off HDR and see if that does anything.

Going straight to the TV and using eARC is definitely the backup; just annoying :p. Hopefully as other people start trying to hook up their Series X today some more info can come to light.
 
M

MysticalOS

Audiophyte
Hi y'all, it looks like a lot of great info is being shared on this thread; hoping that this question is helpful for others as well.
Just tried hooking up the Series X to the V6A and my TV (Samsung QN65Q6FNAF) this morning, but wasn't able to get 4K working. I removed the V6A from the equation (i.e., Xbox connected directly to the TV) and that allowed me to get 4K coming out of the Series X. This leads me to believe I haven't found the right settings with the V6A and the TV. Anyone else running into something similar? I remember having to do some finagling to get the Nintendo Switch to work.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: Should add, Series X is connected to V6A with cable that comes in the box; V6A is connected to the TV with an HDMI cable I already had. 4K worked when Series X was connected directly to TV with this cable I already had.
I was having issues with series x when using arc HDMI port on TV. By this I mean I was only using that port not actual arc feature.

Direct to tv on that port with series x worked. Through receiver first then to arc port on tv, it'd be full black screen or even flicker on for half second bursts then black out again. It was basically failing to hold stable sync. Again, ARC wasn't even on, disbled on tv and receiver even. I tried enabling it to see if it'd solve it didn't. That port works fine with every other device hooked up to yamaha. However for sake of testing I connected receiver to another HDMI port that was full bandwidth but NOT arc, suddenly series x worked fine. Can't really explain this, just know that it worked. TV I am using is a Sony 800F so it's not HDMI 2.1, just 2.0b full bandwidth on ports 2 and 3 with one being arc and one not being arc.

You'll still get HDR banding going through yamaha regardless of port sadly. Happens with series x, (if you enable YUV422, my tip if going through receiver, don't) happens with PS4 pro, happens with my apple tv. My take on HDR banding is yamaha has a serious problem handling YUV422. It actually doesn't HDR band when using YUV420 on series x (which is default, YUV422 is not enabled). Unfortunately PS4 doesn't let you choose color mode. It's automatic and forced. It will use YUV422 if there is bandwidth for it, it only uses 420 on slower HDMI ports.

To others in thread that can't reproduce banding, it's probably because device you are testing is outputing 420 or 444 (which is possible even with HDR content if frame rate matching is enabled, because sub 60hz content doesn't need to color crush for bandwidth).
 
Last edited:
P

psrmexican

Audiophyte
Good idea about the eARC. I was using that input on my TV, so I switched to a different one and boom! 4K is now working. Haven't really taken it for a test drive, but the fact that 4K worked immediately once I used a different input was encouraging. I don't really plan to play content from the TV itself (everything should be coming from Series X or the Switch), so not using the eARC for now shouldn't be an issue, for me at least.

Thanks y'all!
 
M

MysticalOS

Audiophyte
Good idea about the eARC. I was using that input on my TV, so I switched to a different one and boom! 4K is now working. Haven't really taken it for a test drive, but the fact that 4K worked immediately once I used a different input was encouraging. I don't really plan to play content from the TV itself (everything should be coming from Series X or the Switch), so not using the eARC for now shouldn't be an issue, for me at least.

Thanks y'all!
Glad my experience could help. I don't know why but that was the problem. Passing x series through yamaha to an arc/earc port makes it a no go.
 
D

D4v3

Enthusiast
eARC is a bit of a mess, frankly all the new standards are a mess. I use the term "standards" loosely as none of them really seem to be implemented correctly cross the board.
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Chief
I'm sure I missed something in the spec sheet. Please tell me that for the extra money they are offering something more than the f#%kin' wedge!:mad:
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Chief
Well, it's heavier. Seems to have an extra pound of horse s#%t in it.:p
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Chief
Yamaha says they can notify you when it is ready to ship, Bestbuy says it is sold out and Amazon says it will be released on November 16th.o_O
 

newsletter
  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top