Yamaha AVENTAGE 2021 AV Receivers Bulk Up on Power and 8K Features

AVR Enthu

AVR Enthu

Full Audioholic
I have to ask Siri multiple time to "play some jazz" until YouTube app gives up. It makes me mad.
And we have been so hopeful about AI :D
Can you imagine cooking with Siri or asking a robot to cut meat with a huge knife behind you?
 
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AVR Enthu

AVR Enthu

Full Audioholic
It's really a fillin till I get the Sony 65 Master Series A90J, or X90J.
Samsung releases QD-OLED this year, the best quality display so far. It will be priced a tad below their flagship. You might want to ask your local dealers about it and try to find a good deal this or next year. QD-OLED is going to be my next monitor and TV. You can already see brief demos and panel review online. There is no better public persona than Teoh in this department. His testing gear for TV is like Gene's for audio. Have a watch and you will never look back :p
TV -
monitor -
 
AVR Enthu

AVR Enthu

Full Audioholic
Turning off an AVR via the remote does not remove power from all of the circuitry. If it did, good luck turning it back on with the remote. A power off simply puts the AVR in standby mode which still powers some of the components inside
True. I find most convenient setting in menu to set automatic stand-by time. Mine is 15 or 20 minutes. AVR will switch off automatically after the last connected device is turned off. This way, AVR goes to sleep every night.
 

lc6

Junior Audioholic
I have not yet mastered all the tricky processing settings on the A6A, so a question for the owners who have much more experience with this product line: what setting(s) on the remote control should I use to see on the front panel exactly what type of source material (e.g. 2-channel analog stereo, PCM stereo, Dolby 5.1, Dolby Atmos, DTS, etc.) is being received and processed at the moment, even if this is displayed briefly? When I experiment with the settings, I only see what processing mode is being selected, not what the source material actually is.

Yesterday, I again tried to determine what causes the long gaps (typically, about 15 seconds) in the sound from the TV over HDMI ARC. Findings:
1. When playing an OTA broadcast, switching between adjacent channels produces only a shorter ~2-second gap; I believe that is what @Replicant 7 also reported. That is inconvenient when browsing channels, but bearable, I guess.
2. Within the same OTA channel, if there is a scene change (such as a switch from a sports event to an interview of an athlete or to commentators), there is a long silent gap. The same happens during a commercial break in which some successive commercials have surround sound and some do not.
3. When switching from the OTA broadcast to a streaming app and starting to play some contents, there is a long gap. The same happens during an automatic switch to the next episode in a series and sometimes during the transition from the introductory part (i.e. when the Skip button is displayed) to the immediately following new episode.
Changing the Sound > Ultra Low Jitter PLL Mode setting for the TV input to Off from the default 1 and back has no noticeable effect. (Higher settings [2, 3] would make things worse; see p. 260 of the User Guide.)
While I do not know the design details of this AVR design, I suspect that these gaps have to do with the PLL on the HDMI ARC input taking a long time to converge when the source material changes between PCM stereo and Dolby 5.1, with the firmware blocking the audio output.

Update 3/30:
I tried to find additional settings that could be experimented with to get to the root cause of this long audio delay. I came across HDMI Control and ARC. Both are enabled by default, so that is how I am able to play audio and control the volume from my TV. However, the help screen has a note saying "You need to perform the HDMI Control link setup after connecting HDMI Control-compatible devices" (the same statement is on pp. 271 and 317 of the User Guide). So what exactly is this "HDMI Control link setup"? There is no explanation whatsoever. I could not find any other setting in the menu structure for the "link setup." Any idea what this is about and how exactly to perform it?
 
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AVR Enthu

AVR Enthu

Full Audioholic
These AVRs are computers with amplifiers in them having far greater processing power than NASA's computer during the Apollo missions.
True, but often less processing power than mid-range home router.
 

lc6

Junior Audioholic
Another issue to discuss: What is the actual power consumption of this AVR? It is not specified, either idle (i.e. powered on but not playing anything; not standby) or maximum (this goes against basic electrical requirements). For example, the comparable Denon AVR-X4700H is specified to consume about 60-110W when idle and 710W max (on the back panel). No such data on the A6A I could find.
 
Replicant 7

Replicant 7

Audioholic Samurai
Samsung releases QD-OLED this year, the best quality display so far. It will be priced a tad below their flagship. You might want to ask your local dealers about it and try to find a good deal this or next year. QD-OLED is going to be my next monitor and TV. You can already see brief demos and panel review online. There is no better public persona than Teoh in this department. His testing gear for TV is like Gene's for audio. Have a watch and you will never look back :p
TV -
monitor -
No nothing, Samsung ever again for me. Sony Bavaria Master Series, most reliable most dependable. Above average like Yamaha. :p got Sony's first 40" LED in my bedroom 16+ year old still going strong. Yes it's has two HDMI inputs and they still work.
 
Replicant 7

Replicant 7

Audioholic Samurai
True. I find most convenient setting in menu to set automatic stand-by time. Mine is 15 or 20 minutes. AVR will switch off automatically after the last connected device is turned off. This way, AVR goes to sleep every night.
Umm, interesting, mine isn't set to go to sleep. Just stays in standby mode when off. Maybe I should set mine to sleepy mode.
 
AVR Enthu

AVR Enthu

Full Audioholic
Umm, interesting, mine isn't set to go to sleep. Just stays in standby mode when off. Maybe I should set mine to sleepy mode.
Totally. Once you set it up, when you turn off TV, you do not need to think about AVR at all. You go to bed and AVR goes to bed on its own after whatever number of minutes you told it to.
 
Replicant 7

Replicant 7

Audioholic Samurai
RX-A8ARX-A6ARX-A4A
600W500W410W
0.4W (when HDMI control / standby through / network standby is OFF)
3.0W (HDMI control / standby through / network standby (Wi-Fi) / Bluetooth ® standby ON
I have my RX-A4A hard wired, ethernet cable, my COX internet/router is on 24/7. I'm gonna start setting AVR to sleepy time tonight. Thanks for the info!:) Bluetooth I have sent to off. Don't need Bluetooth, on all the time.
 
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lc6

Junior Audioholic
RX-A8ARX-A6ARX-A4A
600W500W410W
0.4W (when HDMI control / standby through / network standby is OFF)
3.0W (HDMI control / standby through / network standby (Wi-Fi) / Bluetooth ® standby ON
Thanks. Any idea what the idle (i.e. AVR powered on and receiving program material, but volume at an absolute minimum) power consumption is?
The 500W figure, compared to 710W for Denon AVR-X4700H might indicate a heavier involvement of "nannies" (as Gene called them in the review) which limit the overall power output when many channels are driven. Assuming that the A6A uses Class AB amps, the efficiency in the 60-65% range, and (for the sake of simplicity) neglecting the power consumption of the front-end and processing electronics, the max combined output power would only be about 300-325W. But in his bench tests, Gene was able to produce a peak combined power of 4ch x 152W into 8 Ohms = 608W (see the "Yamaha RX-A6A Power Measurement Table" at https://www.audioholics.com/av-receiver-reviews/yamaha-rx-a6a ). So, this 500W figure seems too low. Each piece of electronics to be plugged into the standard power outlet should have a label indicating the max power consumption; but this one strangely does not.
 
AVR Enthu

AVR Enthu

Full Audioholic
Each piece of electronics to be plugged into the standard power outlet should have a label indicating the max power consumption; but this one strangely does not.
The power rating on retail website is what entire unit is rated for under normal operating conditions. Gene carried out stress tests and dynamic tests, pushing the unit to max out. Just above 600W sounds right for A6A, as I saw somewhere that when 9 channel driven, each channel uses almost 60W, plus ~30W for I/O ports and DAC.

Gene has another separate article for power rating and formula used to calculate it. It's from 2-3 years ago. Try to find it on Audioholics. AB class is even less efficient than the number given above at lower power and this is included in formula. I believe the efficiency ranges 17-20% at lower wattage and then grows up to 65% at 100W. Add to it power for I/O ports and board and voila.

The reason this topic is so confusing for people, including me, is because there is no one international standard or single formula to calculate it, like there is for power supply on PC, where you know pretty much precisely which devices suck specific amount of power and this is often easy to monitor via simple app. Trickier with AVR.
 

lc6

Junior Audioholic
The power rating on retail website is what entire unit is rated for under normal operating conditions. Gene carried out stress tests and dynamic tests, pushing the unit to max out. Just above 600W sounds right for A6A, as I saw somewhere that when 9 channel driven, each channel uses almost 60W, plus ~30W for I/O ports and DAC.

Gene has another separate article for power rating and formula used to calculate it. It's from 2-3 years ago. Try to find it on Audioholics. AB class is even less efficient than the number given above at lower power and this is included in formula. I believe the efficiency ranges 17-20% at lower wattage and then grows up to 65% at 100W. Add to it power for I/O ports and board and voila.

The reason this topic is so confusing for people, including me, is because there is no one international standard or single formula to calculate it, like there is for power supply on PC, where you know pretty much precisely which devices suck specific amount of power and this is often easy to monitor via simple app. Trickier with AVR.
That's all fine, but still, given the "nannies," there is an overall output power limit in this AVR, the top efficiency % and power consumption of the input/processing circuitry is also known to the manufacturer, so there should be a label on the backplate showing the max. power consumption from the electrical outlet. That is important because users likely have many devices connected to the same residential circuit (sometimes shared by multiple rooms), which should not be overloaded (not everyone has a separate 20A line for the AVR).
 
A

Am_P

Full Audioholic


:D

No, I think your RX-A4A will last about 20 years. :D
If you used your CX-A5200 as a "streamer/DAC" and ran its zone pre/out to this integrated amp (A-S2200?) and did a comparison for 2 channel listening VS your CX-A5200+MX-A5200 combo, what could you expect? Might you have done such a comparison?
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
If you used your CX-A5200 as a "streamer/DAC" and ran its zone pre/out to this integrated amp (A-S2200?) and did a comparison for 2 channel listening VS your CX-A5200+MX-A5200 combo, what could you expect? Might you have done such a comparison?
I wouldn't do that since it would sound the same. :D

But yes, I have listened to the A-S3200 in my HT room when I ordered it for a client and we listened together.

 
Replicant 7

Replicant 7

Audioholic Samurai
If you used your CX-A5200 as a "streamer/DAC" and ran its zone pre/out to this integrated amp (A-S2200?) and did a comparison for 2 channel listening VS your CX-A5200+MX-A5200 combo, what could you expect? Might you have done such a comparison?
You noticed all the subs Andrew has? Andrew is a Bass Monster!! 10 Subs!! I believe no AH member can top what he has in his HT room. I've seen two or three 15" subs in others setups.
 
A

Am_P

Full Audioholic
I wouldn't do that since it would sound the same. :D

But yes, I have listened to the A-S3200 in my HT room when I ordered it for a client and we listened together.

Audioholics/ASR - ALL DACs, preamps, amps sound the same ...no reason for anything different to exist.
Audiogon - All cables and network bridges sound different too.

No sane crowd to be found on either side
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Audioholics/ASR - ALL DACs, preamps, amps sound the same ...no reason for anything different to exist.
Audiogon - All cables and network bridges sound different too.

No sane crowd to be found on either side
Well, there's no point debating that topic IMO. If it makes you happy, it can't be that bad. :D

If if makes people happy buying certain amps, integrated amps, AVR, AVP, cables, etc., it is their PRIVILEGE to spend their money.
 
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