The Audyssey MultEQ Editor app users thread (with facts and tips)

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paulgyro

Audioholic Intern
I’m going to do a REW reading in the next few days, but check this out:

View attachment 40470

I’ve never seen a reading like that on a full range speaker before. These Cantons man.... they’re pretty okay!
Awesome, how did you get your highs not roll off? Mine keep rolling off.
 
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anthonyrizzo84

Enthusiast
Hi everyone,

I have a denon x8500h and a 7.1.4 set up.
After using audyssey, all speaker distance are correct apart from the front right atmos speaker, which is around a meter off.
Should I change the distance manually or redo the calibration or leave it as it is?


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
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PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Hi everyone,

I have a denon x8500h and a 7.1.4 set up.
After using audyssey, all speaker distance are correct apart from the front right atmos speaker, which is around a meter off.
Should I change the distance manually or redo the calibration or leave it as it is?


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
I would just run it one more time and if the result is the same, leave it alone. I could be due to some delay somewhere in the chain. Audyssey does not measure physical distance obviously, it measures delays.

Just to confirm the distance, you don't need to run 8 positions, but iirc, you have to run it for 3 positions otherwise it may not let you end the run. Haven't done if for 3 months so my memory has faded on this.

Again, re-run to check the distance result only, so don't send the file to the AVR, otherwise you have to load the old file back.
 
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Lattiboy

Enthusiast
Awesome, how did you get your highs not roll off? Mine keep rolling off.
Literally nothing. Room isn’t treated and I didn’t have a preamp or anything. That’s just the out of box response of these things. I am hopefully going to run REW by this weekend and get a more accurate reading.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
Literally nothing. Room isn’t treated and I didn’t have a preamp or anything. That’s just the out of box response of these things. I am hopefully going to run REW by this weekend and get a more accurate reading.
Just be a little forewarned that the app's "after curve" is not an actual measurement and D&M decided their customers would be happier with a better curve than you likely achieved. Maybe you can think of the after curve as an optimistic expected target curve. I think Audyssey does a very good job with the low frequencies, but probably not so good as the graph would have you believe!

Which Cantons are you running?
 
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Lattiboy

Enthusiast
Just be a little forewarned that the app's "after curve" is not an actual measurement and D&M decided their customers would be happier with a better curve than you likely achieved. Maybe you can think of the after curve as an optimistic expected target curve. I think Audyssey does a very good job with the low frequencies, but probably not so good as the graph would have you believe!

Which Cantons are you running?
I was referring to the green part of the initial reading, but I understand your point. These are Canton CT-120. Huge TOTL floorstanders from the late 80s.
 
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Lattiboy

Enthusiast
Looks not too bad, but let's see some REW graphs first.
You asked for it!

I got out my calibrated UMIK-1 mic and ran a proper REW sweep from my listening position using a tripod. Here’s the results. The RED is the speakers with no DSP, the GREEN is Audyssey XT32 Reference mode limited to 200Hz and below. Graph smoothing at 1/6:

59188FD6-7967-4180-BA24-EE2246CA5C53.jpeg
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
If you get the spare time, I am very curious to see if you reran it at 250Hz and below if it would do anything with the hump around 180Hz or below.
It makes sense that it would not apply abrupt adjustments right at the chosen frequency limit.
 
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Lattiboy

Enthusiast
If you get the spare time, I am very curious to see if you reran it at 250Hz and below if it would do anything with the hump around 180Hz or below.
It makes sense that it would not apply abrupt adjustments right at the chosen frequency limit.
I happen to be on the same laptop and hadn’t moved the mic yet, so I ran it corrected up to 400Hz. Here’s the plot:

B4F57D9F-2B03-494C-861E-83E4C9C53BD3.jpeg


I don’t understand REW or audyssey enough to comment further. Room effect I’m guessing? Maybe @PENG can shed some light?
 
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KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
I happen to be on the same laptop and hadn’t moved the mic yet, so I ran it corrected up to 400Hz. Here’s the plot:

View attachment 40532

I don’t understand REW or audyssey enough to comment further. Room effect I’m guessing? Maybe @PENG can shed some light?
I'm not sure what to make of it either, but it is interesting!
 
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PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
I happen to be on the same laptop and hadn’t moved the mic yet, so I ran it corrected up to 400Hz. Here’s the plot:

View attachment 40532

I don’t understand REW or audyssey enough to comment further. Room effect I’m guessing? Maybe @PENG can shed some light?
Looks not bad for a run without customizing! You should remove smoothing so we can see how good it really is.
The good news is, you can do significantly better with the App and Ratbuddyssey because your graphs show mostly humps that usually can be flatted. Dips are often tough to deal with, but you don't seem to have those, lucky you, must have a good room, or you have applied room treatment well.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
Looks not bad for a run without customizing! You should remove smoothing so we can see how good it really is.
The good news is, you can do significantly better with the App and Ratbuddyssey because your graphs show mostly humps that usually can be flatted. Dips are often tough to deal with, but you don't seem to have those, lucky you, must have a good room, or you have applied room treatment well.
So peng, I am curious about your opinion. To my eye, it looks good above 300hz. But below that there are what looks like 12-15db swings still. There also not exactly narrow. I feel like that would make for a very inconsistent playback. No?
 
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PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
So peng, I am curious about your opinion. To my eye, it looks good above 300hz. But below that there are what looks like 12-15db swings still. There also not exactly narrow. I feel like that would make for a very inconsistent playback. No?
Yes in that case, but I only see 8 dB peak to peak swing, that's why I want to see one with no smoothing.
My not bad comment is based on the fact that mostly cuts need to be applied with the app, so that is good news, agree?
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
Yes in that case, but I only see 8 dB peak to peak swing, that's why I want to see one with no smoothing.
My not bad comment is based on the fact that mostly cuts need to be applied with the app, so that is good news, agree?
I would agree with that for sure. The thing I’d wonder about after making cuts is any loss in amp headroom. After making the cuts, they might need an overall trim boost to even back out. Probably not enough to hurt but academically speaking lol.
 
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PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
I would agree with that for sure. The thing I’d wonder about after making cuts is any loss in amp headroom. After making the cuts, they might need an overall trim boost to even back out. Probably not enough to hurt but academically speaking lol.
Yes, that's why one has to be careful not to cut too much. If the trims are near 0 or negative, then it would be even better to begin with.
 
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Lattiboy

Enthusiast
Looks not bad for a run without customizing! You should remove smoothing so we can see how good it really is.
The good news is, you can do significantly better with the App and Ratbuddyssey because your graphs show mostly humps that usually can be flatted. Dips are often tough to deal with, but you don't seem to have those, lucky you, must have a good room, or you have applied room treatment well.
Thanks! No treatment, but a big bean bag and couches and gym equipment, so it’s got a lot of absorption. Going to switch up my setup with a less powerful power amp. Currently running a poa2200 which is something like 300wpc. The Cantons are 95db @4ohm, so that’s kinda too much.

I’m also going to do the cursed “3 ft out from the wall”. It’s totally not functional for the room, but I gotta know. They’re currently 18”, which could explain the big jumps below 80Hz.

Is there another solution for blooming if I can’t put them farther out regularly? Foam behind the speakers?
 
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PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Thanks! No treatment, but a big bean bag and couches and gym equipment, so it’s got a lot of absorption. Going to switch up my setup with a less powerful power amp. Currently running a poa2200 which is something like 300wpc. The Cantons are 95db @4ohm, so that’s kinda too much.

I’m also going to do the cursed “3 ft out from the wall”. It’s totally not functional for the room, but I gotta know. They’re currently 18”, which could explain the big jumps below 80Hz.

Is there another solution for blooming if I can’t put them farther out regularly? Foam behind the speakers?
You can never have too much power, if you are a responsible user!!
This is what I would call a real "high current" amp, 8X10,000 uf 80 V rated caps and 8X15 A rated output devices, conservatively rated only 200 W Ohms.


1602422954014.png
 
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anthonyrizzo84

Enthusiast
I have a 7.1.4 with the denonx8500h and rotel 1585pa.
My speaker are the kef r7, r2c, r500for surround and r100 for back and 4 kef r8a.
Could you please help me to fix the dip on the center speaker and front left speaker, all the other speaker are fine


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
D

DJ7675

Audioholic
I have a 7.1.4 with the denonx8500h and rotel 1585pa.
My speaker are the kef r7, r2c, r500for surround and r100 for back and 4 kef r8a.
Could you please help me to fix the dip on the center speaker and front left speaker, all the other speaker are fine


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
You have some very nice speakers that measure very well it seems. I would ponder a few things:
1-Looking at the measurements, you may not need to correct anything except what the room is affecting. I would try limiting correction to 300hz/500hz/1K for example.
2-Not sure if you have done any measurements of your space with something like using a PC with REW software with a UMIK1, but I have found it an essential tool. If you measure with REW using a spatially averaged method such as a moving microphone method (MMM) it will provide a better snapshot of the sound than the Audyssey results in my opinion. Also, I have found that it is always a good idea to measure after any room correction software has done its Correction.
I have went back and forth several times on where to cut off corrections. Currently I am getting the best sLund with some good speakers (Revel M106s), and correcting up to 300hz or so. As with all things YMMV.
 

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