Tempest Build

[MrBoat]

I'm sure this has been covered and I'm sure once you have seen one, seen them all, especially with kits. I could have built the cabinets from scratch, but these days, sometimes just knowing you can is enough and it's not so bad to pay someone else to do it. Plus, nobody really cares. Then there's always the leftovers that you end up hoarding like luggage. After a boat building endeavor, an industrial scale welding op, and my countless other hobbies, I try not to accumulate more than what I already have. I am not fond of MDF, or any particle boards, so the less of it, the better.

Glued the cabinets up. In my experience, with wood glue, as long as there is consistent squeeze out, it's enough.

Installed the crossovers, recommended foam, and tacked the fronts on to see what they sound like before deciding on a finish for them. They sound pretty awesome. So much so, that I procrastinated moving on with the rest of the project, Frankenclamps and all.

I made the holes for the binding posts with a homemade circle jig. Hole saws and MDF don't agree with me. Plus I have a router. Always looking for a reason to use that anyway. Plus a little roundover treatment to tidy them up.

Backers in, post holes drilled.

 

[MrBoat]

After listening to them, I decided they should get cherry veneer. At least that way, it looks like I cared. The faces will get matte black.

With the first three coats of satin varnish on. Roll & tip method. Typically I would use gloss for all the build coats. Makes it easier to see imperfections when you block it.

Not too bad. Some minor flaws here and there. I'll finish them up and let them set for a month or three. If anything jumps out at me, I'll level them some more after the contact cement is shrunk as far as it is going to, and the build coats are good and hard.

I'll post more when they are finished. I still need to build some stands for them to get them up over the ends of two sofas. I may integrate some grills into that somehow. Probably weld them up out of aluminum and have them powder coated black.

 

[MrBoat]

Almost forgot. I sealed the front baffles with epoxy resin. Two reasons. One being, I have found that paint lasts 4-5 times longer over sanded, epoxy sealed surfaces. It's a great primer/surfacer. Secondly, I needed to gain some width to catch up to the extra thickness the veneer adds. I was going to glass tape the edges to make sure it was more than wide enough but we'll see.

Here they are sanded. I'll paint them after I install them so I don't have to worry with the clamps goofing the paint up when I glue them on. I have fine line tape to mask them off from the veneer.

 

[Swerd]

Thanks for the photos. They show others what the front baffle and the interior braces of the flat pack kit looks like.

I also liked your comments about sealing the front baffles with epoxy resin before painting them. That's worth knowing.

A few questions:

The front baffle has 3 port holes below the woofer. Are they left as is, or are tubes attached to them?

Was there a gasket between the SEOS horn frame and the cutout on the front baffle?

Did the kit come with assembled crossover boards? How big are the boards?

Were the binding posts long enough to go through the ¾" MDF if you drilled two holes?

 

[MrBoat]

A few questions:

The front baffle has 3 port holes below the woofer. Are they left as is, or are tubes attached to them?

There are three tubes with a flush flange that are barb fitted tightly into the holes, that are 5" long.

Was there a gasket between the SEOS horn frame and the cutout on the front baffle?

Yes. It comes with gaskets for the horns.

Did the kit come with assembled crossover boards? How big are the boards?

Yes. You can get the xovers two ways. The components to build your own boards, or they have one they build. I chose theirs. Again, I know I could hard wire a crossover following a schematic. The price for their boards just seems too convenient for the price.

The boards are approx. 6" x 6.5" I mounted mine on the bottom on 3/8" thick pieces of marine plywood scraps for standoffs. The mounting holes in the boards are tiny. It took a #4 sheet metal screw to fit the holes.

Were the binding posts long enough to go through the ¾" MDF if you drilled two holes?

Yes. They would actually go through about 1-1/8". I used 3/8" marine ply for the backers for the posts. The posts are splined so they will lock into the holes in the wood to prevent spinning. It takes a 1/4" drill bit for the posts. Looks to be a 1/4" x 20 thread.

The epoxy is overkill. I just happen to have a lot of it. It soaked in quite a bit being it's thin layup resin. It should toughen the MDF and make it less prone to damage. I was able to fair any residual machining marks from the edges.

Here are a couple pics of the crossover board.

 

[lsiberian]

That's a very nice kit. The epoxy resin thing is definitley worth knowing.

 

[Swerd]

The kit, cabinet braces, front baffle cutouts, assembled crossover board, and binding posts looks well made. Thanks for all the photos.

I've used those binding posts before and like them. I drill two ¼" holes (¾" apart) through the back of the cabinet and drive them in with a mallet and wood block. I add a bit of silicon caulk to the threads before I pound them in but they probably seal the holes without it.

In the past, when I've had to seal MDF, I brushed on a half & half mix of wood glue & water. One or two applications makes them sand-able. I'll remember the epoxy in case I run out of wood glue & water .

 

[MrBoat]

In the past, when I've had to seal MDF, I brushed on a half & half mix of wood glue & water. One or two applications makes them sand-able. I'll remember the epoxy in case I run out of wood glue & water .

I was trying to add mils of thickness to the edges of the baffles to make up for the thickness of the veneer so that the edges of the baffles sit flush with the cabinets. Epoxy builds much faster than watered down wood glue. Epoxy, regardless of how thick it is, will cure evenly throughout. Air dried paints and adhesives, will typically skin over first, and then cure/shrink for months afterwards. I needed something high build that was stable. Wood glue is not meant as a gap filler or for high build.

With epoxy, you can use many different kinds of fillers/powders to make a gap filling adhesive or a workable (like bondo) putty, that will adhere to a lot more surfaces than bondo or wood putty will. These include, wood (ultra fine sawdust) flour, wheat flour, phenolic micro (easily sandable) balloons, milled glass fibers, talcum powder, alumina, graphite etc.

I've been working with composites for years. It's the materials I have on hand. I just like epoxy better than watered down vinyl. On the backs of the cabinets I used thinned, dewaxed shellac. It would have taken quite a bit of wood glue to do those.

 

[MrBoat]

That's a very nice kit. The epoxy resin thing is definitley worth knowing.

It is actually a nice kit. The parts are CNC cut and have dados where they matter.

 

[Swerd]

I was trying to add mils of thickness to the edges of the baffles to make up for the thickness of the veneer so that the edges of the baffles sit flush with the cabinets. Epoxy builds much faster than watered down wood glue. Epoxy, regardless of how thick it is, will cure evenly throughout. Air dried paints and adhesives, will typically skin over first, and then cure/shrink for months afterwards. I needed something high build that was stable. Wood glue is not meant as a gap filler or for high build.

With epoxy, you can use many different kinds of fillers/powders to make a gap filling adhesive or a workable (like bondo) putty, that will adhere to a lot more surfaces than bondo or wood putty will. These include, wood (ultra fine sawdust) flour, wheat flour, phenolic micro (easily sandable) balloons, milled glass fibers, talcum powder, alumina, graphite etc.

I've been working with composites for years. It's the materials I have on hand. I just like epoxy better than watered down vinyl. On the backs of the cabinets I used thinned, dewaxed shellac. It would have taken quite a bit of wood glue to do those.

This is why I asked you to post a DIY build thread. I think your epoxy experience is as valuable as the details of the Tempest kit.

 

[MrBoat]

This is why I asked you to post a DIY build thread. I think your epoxy experience is as valuable as the details of the Tempest kit.

As I stated, the epoxy is overkill. I wouldn't suggest it. For one, the layup resin I have takes about 6 hrs just to dry to touch, 24 hrs to become efficiently sandable and you have to get the amine (hardener) blush from the surface. I did it just because I had it and I had time while waiting for the cabinet glue to dry and the veneer process after that. For paint that is often used on these builds, the wood glue is probably as good idea as any. I only had an 8 oz bottle of wood glue. It took most of that to glue the cabinets.

I must admit in hindsight though, that the epoxy added a solid feel of quality to the baffles that should be a joy to paint.

 

[MrBoat]

Got the baffles installed. In order to make the baffles/faces line up perfectly flush with the veneer, I masked the very edge of the veneer, and the body line of the baffles which essentially amounts to a 5/16" pin stripe. I then added some cabosil (fumed silica powder) to 5 minute epoxy and used a squeegee to pull it tight. Then removed the masking tape as soon as the epoxy starts to kick. It bothered me having a face that looked removable that wasn't.

Either way, it really tidied it up. I will mask it again at the same edge of the veneer when I go to paint them.

 

[MrBoat]

Finally got them painted. I am pleased with the way everything came out. The extra body work was worth it as it neatened everything up. One step left before final assembly. I need to paint the insides of the driver recesses. The matte paint I used is oil based. All I have to do is spray some of what's left in the can into a small cup, or the lid itself and color the insides with an acid brush with the same paint.

Backs are done too. Everything is still a little wet in this picture. If I were to rate this finish, I would say it matches the price point of these speakers. Still have to build some custom stands/grills. Since my day job is welding/fabricating aluminum, I should be able to come up with something maybe a little tricked. I'm mulling over designs in my head for now.

 

[MrBoat]

Finally completed. The epoxy treatment on the baffles made the edges look the same as they were machined. The thickness of the masking tape gives them the look of being separate, even though there are no seams. Instead It looks as if they were an exceptionally clean fit to the veneered cabinets.

Installing the drivers using a helper so I don't have to try holding the driver while putting the wires in or having it rest on the new paint.

A view of the back side of one of the compression drivers right before I installed the gaskets.

Ports installed. These are a nice press fit.

 

[ski2xblack]

Excellent work, MrBoat! Man, you're fast. You went from making inquiries on a forum to exquisitely finished, kick butt diy speakers in what, a month or less? Way to dive in head first, and thanks for sharing the details of your build.

 

[MrBoat]

Excellent work, MrBoat! Man, you're fast. You went from making inquiries on a forum to exquisitely finished, kick butt diy speakers in what, a month or less? Way to dive in head first, and thanks for sharing the details of your build.

Thank you for suggesting these speakers! I have them on now and they sound absolutely amazing. I will post pictures a bit later of them sitting in their semi-final resting places. Now all I need is stands and grills to make them just right. I will add photos of that process as well, as it occurs.

I have to really be honest about digging the larger woofers. Oh the kick drums and the bass guitar! It's wonderfully enveloping. Fixing to pick up a buddy who wants to hear them. He's bringing music CD's.

 

[MrBoat]

I set the speakers up on some boxes (these have stryofoam packing, or the boxes would never hold up these hefty chunks) for the time being until I invent some trick stands for them. They really do sound as good, or better than I expected. Now I have to build a suitable entertainment stand for the TV, Denon AVR and the Behringer amp. I want to be able to disguise it in hideaway fashion for when I leave town. Making the whole works disappear into it, and I'll set some decoys in their place in the event of a burglary. I'm going to be building subs too in a month or two. I am going to use the 12" Dayton Ultimax drivers, and connect those to the Behringer amp, and probably bother you folks with questions on how to best set up the network.

The one sofa I have a comforter on because I hate micro-suede. Stuff always feels wet to me. But I am calling that my bass trap. Actually, there is probably some truth to that with how music manages to sound in this smallish room, otherwise.

Now watch, this arrangement will become some kind of designer trend with that warehouse look.

I love the looks of these speakers. They look like bookshelf speakers on steroids. I am glad I put extra work into them in hindsight.

 

[lovinthehd]

Nice job, can't wait to see the stands!

 

[MrBoat]

Nice job, can't wait to see the stands!

You were another that suggested DIY near the beginning of my membership here. That was a great idea. I'd still probably undecided still. Although, after hooking up a new receiver to the JBL's, they really shine now so I'd have probably just stayed with those.

Either way, this was certainly fun to do. I'm considering other designs in the future. The only problem being, is one really can have too much audio equipment in short order. Especially when it comes to speakers.

One thing about this hobby, and this coming from someone who hung drywall for 20 years. It's a heavy hobby once you start doing multiple finish processes to where you have to move and flip these things a lot. And they are usually awkward at this size. By the time I was finished with it, I was considering integrating handles into the cabinets.

 

[lovinthehd]

You were another that suggested DIY near the beginning of my membership here. That was a great idea. I'd still probably undecided still. Although, after hooking up a new receiver to the JBL's, they really shine now so I'd have probably just stayed with those.

Either way, this was certainly fun to do. I'm considering other designs in the future. The only problem being, is one really can have too much audio equipment in short order. Especially when it comes to speakers.

One thing about this hobby, and this coming from someone who hung drywall for 20 years. It's a heavy hobby once you start doing multiple finish processes to where you have to move and flip these things a lot. And they are usually awkward at this size. By the time I was finished with it, I was considering integrating handles into the cabinets.

Glad it worked out for you, diy isn't for everyone but you definitely seem to have the skills and tools to carry it out beautifully. Especially since you work with metal professionally I'm very interested to see what you do for stands.

I have lots of snow and a really cold workshop but I did manage to finally finish a sub I was working on for a while yesterday but I still have an identical one to complete the set to do. I use the bracing inside my sub cabinets as handles to grab and rotate while finishing, which helps as they indeed get pretty big and awkward....especially the dual opposed 18"s cabinet I've been procrastinating about for a while.

Yeah, I've got a couple speakers and things floating around here....