Nothing really to see yet but I did get the crossovers welded up. First let me say, I am not a fan of using MDF for crossover boards. I remember going thru this on the Classix2 build and swearing to use something else the 'next' time. I have a piece of micarta here somewhere I made out of about 6 layers of canvas that would have certainly drilled better than this stuff does and it would hold screws if needed and hot melt glue would likely stick to it much better.\n\nThe other thing that seems somewhat layout-less is, point-to-point wiring between the components. I'm not even sure how important this is with something like a crossover circuit. If I were to use patch wires between the components, in which to neaten up the build or leave some future service capability on the blind side where all the soldering is done, I start wondering if these minute, additional resistances add up to make a difference when looking at the values of these parts. Especially when you see something with a value plus a .1 or 2 and if that matters when you think about acceptable +\/- tolerances being forgiving enough or not.\n\nAt any rate, it's probably a ridiculous, OCD thing of little concern, especially considering these things will not be seen. I just think about the poor schmuck that inherits these things in the future and needs to work on them and finding the handiwork of some. . . .hack. :D\n\nPerhaps I should write; "Sorry dude" with a little smiley face on the back. :)\n\nAnyway, in spite of holiday procrastinations being what they are, it's a start at least and it's always the part I procrastinate about the most.\n\nRough layout of the parts.\n\n\nParts wired thru the board and zip tied etc with the leads kind of heading where they need to go.\n\n\nThen it's just a matter of getting some good mechanical connections and soldering (the easy part) everything. I did test them with the drivers to see if I got sound on low volume before I soldered everything at least and it's a go. I didn't push it, but you could tell by the sound that the drivers wanted to play, even outside of the nonexistent cabinets. No static, buzzes or anything like that.\n\n\nI did leave all of the leads their original length and just looped them a bit where possible so at least some of the more expensive parts can be reworked if need be. I also got rid of the electrical tape and stickers on the inductors and just wrote the values on the ends with a sharpie. Not a fan of how gooey electrical tape gets over time. I just tightened up the windings after they were through the holes and let the hot melt hold them tight.