Suggestions for DIY Home Audio Sub

M

marrypoppins

Audioholic Intern
Still getting angry for no reason, and now ur making fun of my name.................wow speechless, im going to go ahead and let that go since making a comeback would be like shooting fish in a barrel. Are you really sticking two 12" drivers in 13 cubic feet of box, thats huge, mines in 5.3 and thats too big for me. Now I understand that you have spent alot of money, we all have, but I was never out to insult you.
 
MacManNM

MacManNM

Banned
marrypoppins said:
Still getting angry for no reason, and now ur making fun of my name.................wow speechless, im going to go ahead and let that go since making a comeback would be like shooting fish in a barrel. Are you really sticking two 12" drivers in 13 cubic feet of box, thats huge, mines in 5.3 and thats too big for me. Now I understand that you have spent alot of money, we all have, but I was never out to insult you.
Yes it is that large, and yes it works great.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
MacManNM said:
Sheep,
the proper term is "gear down there big shifter", and I am really being nice here, I'm trying to turn over a new leaf!

I haven't threatened to hurt anyone yet, isn't that a plus?
Its Easy turbo nowadays. ;)

SheepStar
 
MacManNM

MacManNM

Banned
Sheep said:
Its Easy turbo nowadays. ;)

SheepStar
Sorry, I guess us old farts are just out of it.

Here is the only pic I could find. This is the first part of construction, I added all of the bracing and some dampning material next, then I glues the other side on it. I made some measurements with only 1 woofer in, and then decided to add the 2nd one.


 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
MacManNM said:
Sorry, I guess us old farts are just out of it.

Here is the only pic I could find. This is the first part of construction, I added all of the bracing and some dampning material next, then I glues the other side on it. I made some measurements with only 1 woofer in, and then decided to add the 2nd one.


Holly Karp thats a big subwoofer. Its like the Bose ones, but it actually plays bass....

SheepStar
 
Mr. Lamb Fries

Mr. Lamb Fries

Full Audioholic
That things a beast! Looks like 1/2 of the "magician saw the assistant in half" box.

I see some sketches on the side (Left...facing the camera). Is the lower sketch for a port? Is the housing inside the box a chanel for the port? It looks like it matches up.
 
MacManNM

MacManNM

Banned
Mr. Lamb Fries said:
That things a beast! Looks like 1/2 of the "magician saw the assistant in half" box.

I see some sketches on the side (Left...facing the camera). Is the lower sketch for a port? Is the housing inside the box a chanel for the port? It looks like it matches up.

Yeah that is the port in the box there. The sketxhes on the side were the original layout, but about1/2 way through I decided to go a little bigger. The size of the box really doesn't bother me because the room it's in is quite large, and I have it corner loaded. So it's really out of the way.
 
B

bcycle

Junior Audioholic
The e-mail that started the "Suggestions for DIY Home Audio Sub" thread. ("Project S

Hi All-

You might recall that my goal was to not spend more than $200 on parts plus the materials to build the thing. After some research, some e-mails and help from (as they say here in Philly) "yous all", I've made some decisions which I would like to run by this message board for commentary, critique and suggestions.

I am learning much about Sub design including using WinISD to design my subwoofer. I'm not an engineer by any stretch but I have a pretty decent background in the audio realm. (I Sold High end for 8 years about 12 years ago). But I'm no engineer anyway.Your input and/or comments will be of great value.

Decisions thus far:

I'm seriously considering the Dayton 15" Quatro along with Dayton's 240 watt plate amp. (300-804) which totals

WinISD suggests a 6.962 sq. ft. box and I've plugged in 2- 4 x 17.35 inch ports which should yield a bottom end of 20.15hz (-3db). Also according to WinISD, 3 ports at 4.25 inches will produce a vent mach of .02 which is good. (yes?)

I'm going to make a box out of 3/4 inch mdf with hole cutouts for the amp, the woofer and vents. Dimensions I'm considering are just about 30 H x 22" W x 22" D which gives my 6.962 volume. I'm thinking PVC vents, screws with T-nuts and lots of silicone to keep it on the cheap.

I'm using the plate amp it has a hi pass/ x-over feature, phase adjust and it's pretty cheap.

Woofer location: I'm thinking abut locating the woofer in the middle of the box with a port above and below the woofer. Another idea idea was to locate the woofer on the top of my 30 inch tower similar to some of Roy Allison's speaker design theories. (He liked to get the woofers as close to the wall as possible to minimize low frequency wavelength cancellation). So, if I put the Dayton woofer on top, is there any benefit? Comments on woofer placement are welcome.

Finally, what about bracing? Do I need to brace this cabinet after screwing and gluing my pile of MDF? I've seen some braces where they had big holes and the holes were routed with a roundover edge. Should I do this? Should I double the faceplate?

Anything else? Thanks for your input. I'll post pics and results as I move along on this project!

Greg
 
B

bcycle

Junior Audioholic
Pictures speak louder than words.

That post (see below) was way too long. The very primitive (ok crappy) sketches show what I'm thinking of. Are these designs ok? What about the top mount idea? More details in the text under the pictures.



bcycle said:
Hi All-

You might recall that my goal was to not spend more than $200 on parts plus the materials to build the thing. After some research, some e-mails and help from (as they say here in Philly) "yous all", I've made some decisions which I would like to run by this message board for commentary, critique and suggestions.

I am learning much about Sub design including using WinISD to design my subwoofer. I'm not an engineer by any stretch but I have a pretty decent background in the audio realm. (I Sold High end for 8 years about 12 years ago). But I'm no engineer anyway.Your input and/or comments will be of great value.

Decisions thus far:

I'm seriously considering the Dayton 15" Quatro along with Dayton's 240 watt plate amp. (300-804) which totals

WinISD suggests a 6.962 sq. ft. box and I've plugged in 2- 4 x 17.35 inch ports which should yield a bottom end of 20.15hz (-3db). Also according to WinISD, 3 ports at 4.25 inches will produce a vent mach of .02 which is good. (yes?)

I'm going to make a box out of 3/4 inch mdf with hole cutouts for the amp, the woofer and vents. Dimensions I'm considering are just about 30 H x 22" W x 22" D which gives my 6.962 volume. I'm thinking PVC vents, screws with T-nuts and lots of silicone to keep it on the cheap.

I'm using the plate amp it has a hi pass/ x-over feature, phase adjust and it's pretty cheap.

Woofer location: I'm thinking abut locating the woofer in the middle of the box with a port above and below the woofer. Another idea idea was to locate the woofer on the top of my 30 inch tower similar to some of Roy Allison's speaker design theories. (He liked to get the woofers as close to the wall as possible to minimize low frequency wavelength cancellation). So, if I put the Dayton woofer on top, is there any benefit? Comments on woofer placement are welcome.

Finally, what about bracing? Do I need to brace this cabinet after screwing and gluing my pile of MDF? I've seen some braces where they had big holes and the holes were routed with a roundover edge. Should I do this? Should I double the faceplate?

Anything else? Thanks for your input. I'll post pics and results as I move along on this project!

Greg
 

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