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Really Boring Stuff Only III: Resurrection

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adam
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The tub is clean. The nail holes in Mantown have been hit twice. Once with 45 and once with mud. They might get paint and then I could get rid of the mud, taping stuff and some paint stuff. Free real estate! Yippee. What else? Oh yeah, I'm loosing my mind with boredom. I shall now turn off my computer and you shall cease to exist. :D
 
ParadigmDawg said:
I can't get any of these to "delete" original message like I can on my tablet or S3. It has a little box that you check or uncheck on the other two devices.
Click to expand...
no idea what you're talking about. Have you tried to swipe the messages. that should delete them. i think...
 
Got word from John and my flatpack should ship next Wednesday. I can finally start putting together the Testarossa's. Now I just need to figure out how to put together a crossover from a schematic.
 
fuzz092888 said:
Now I just need to figure out how to put together a crossover from a schematic.
Click to expand...
Read this: http://www.parts-express.com/resources-building-a-crossover

Don't waste time until you have the crossover parts in front of you. Resistors are all about the same size, but the caps & coils vary. I find I can't lay things out unless I know how big they are. I also have a board already cut (or a paper diagram) that I know for certain fits inside the cabinet.

Placement of resistors and caps don't seem to matter, but there are some coil placements that you should avoid. Read this: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm

I keep a printed copy of the diagram near the bottom of that page as I work out a layout.

Don't glue or solder anything until you are CERTAIN its correct and you've tried fitting it in the cabinet.
 
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I'll have to read that. I've already read a few different articles on inductor placement and transferring the schematic to a physical crossover, I've just never actually done it.

I have all the parts, but am missing a tweeter faceplate since I had to send it to John so he could get exact measurements off of it.

Swerd said:
Read this: http://www.parts-express.com/resources-building-a-crossover

Don't waste time until you have the crossover parts in front of you. Resistors are all about the same size, but the caps & coils vary. I find I can't lay things out unless I know how big they are. I also have a board already cut (or a paper diagram) that I know for certain fits inside the cabinet.

Placement of resistors and caps don't seem to matter, but there are some coil placements that you should avoid. Read this: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm

I keep a printed copy of the diagram near the bottom of that page as I work out a layout.

Don't glue or solder anything until you are CERTAIN its correct and you've tried fitting it in the cabinet.
Click to expand...
 
fuzz092888 said:
I'll have to read that. I've already read a few different articles on inductor placement and transferring the schematic to a physical crossover, I've just never actually done it.

I have all the parts, but am missing a tweeter faceplate since I had to send it to John so he could get exact measurements off of it.
Click to expand...
I haven't seen the flatpack kit you're building and what size it is. When will you actually install the crossover board? Will you mount it as the cabinet is being assembled, or after it is all assembled? Depending on the size of the woofer hole, this can matter.

Years ago when I started building small 2-way speakers such as the CAOW1 with 5½" woofers, I built the cabinet first and later installed the crossover board. After a few false starts where things wouldn't fit through the woofer hole, I cut a board, placed the largest inductor coil on edge, and tested it to see if it could go through the hole and then sit flat on the cabinet floor.

Probably a better way for smaller speakers is to mount the crossover board before the cabinet is fully assembled.

Another hint, use 16 g or smaller wire on the inside of the cabinet. Anything larger is too difficult to solder.
 
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Alex2507 said:
I use to wear rings. I donned my rings and tried putting together a pole dancing routine while singing Ring around the Posie. Well, swinging around the pole heated and malformed the rings into devices of torture.
Click to expand...

You now have Adam and Doug's undivided attention...
 
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It's a kit from Meniscus by Jeff Bagby. Floorstanding two way with a RAAL 70-20XR, dual satori woofers, and an SB PR. 39" tall IIRC. I think I should be able to fit the crossover in no matter what because of the 10" PR. However, I was also thinking of doing an external crossover so that I could play with an active version at some point.

I'll keep that in mind about the 16g wire. What do you recommend to mount on the board? Also, hot glue or zip ties or something else?

Swerd said:
I haven't seen the flatpack kit you're building and what size it is. When will you actually install the crossover board? Will you mount it as the cabinet is being assembled, or after it is all assembled? Depending on the size of the woofer hole, this can matter.

Years ago when I started building small 2-way speakers such as the CAOW1 with 5½" woofers, I built the cabinet first and later installed the crossover board. After a few false starts where things wouldn't fit through the woofer hole, I cut a board, placed the largest inductor coil on edge, and tested it to see if it could go through the hole and then sit flat on the cabinet floor.

Probably a better way for smaller speakers is to mount the crossover board before the cabinet is fully assembled.

Another hint, use 16 g or smaller wire on the inside of the cabinet. Anything larger is too difficult to solder.
Click to expand...
 
PM me an email address, and I'll send you some photos of these methods that I'll try and describe below. Maybe, after school is out, you might want to visit. It's easier to demonstrate this than to describe it.

There are probably as many ways of putting crossover boards together as there are people who do it. It all depends on how much space is available, and your hand size. Once the board is assembled, you have to install it inside the cabinet. This can sometime involve working while blind. Here are a bunch of methods I have found that work for me, (ymmv):
  • I like to use either ~¼" Masonite hardboard or thin plywood for crossover boards. I used to use hot glue, but now use only cable ties. Hot glue isn't strong enough. Get the 8" long cable ties or an assortment of sizes at Home Depot. Pegboard is OK, but you will still need to drill holes for cable ties as the pegboard holes are never where you want them.

  • After laying out the parts on the board, I cable tie them to the board and twist the leads together. This requires some trial & error. Its easy to cut cable ties and start over.

  • For all wiring inside the cabinet, I use 16 or 18 gauge copper hook up wires (use two colors such as red & black). This is the kind sold in rolls at PE or Meniscus. http://www.parts-express.com/cat/single-conductor-hook-up-wire/1900. I used to use zip cord, but its too hard to see which is + and which is – in poor light. Others prefer that because they can feel the polarity markings on the insulation surface. I'd rather see the colors.

  • Get a crimp tool like this http://www.parts-express.com/gb-gs-366-wire-stripper-crimper--360-630. There are at least 3 ways I use this tool below. Also get one of these http://www.parts-express.com/automatic-wire-stripper-with-cutter--360-627. Whatever I had used for stripping insulation before I got this tool has been gathering dust for years.

  • There are many different ways to splice wires together. Some work well and others don't. After trying a few, I settled on this method. First, I strip off at least ½" insulation from the ends and line them up side-by-side. I cable tie them together and twist the wires together. Then I solder them, and cover the bare wire with these crimp-on caps http://www.parts-express.com/closed-end-insulated-crimp-terminal-connector-(16-10)-100-pcs--095-562. I used to use the twist-on caps, but they always came loose.

  • To attach hook-up wires to the terminals on the backs of drivers, don't use the cheap aluminum quick disconnects – they never fit right. Instead I buy brass ones from a local Advance Auto Parts store. PE and Madisound also sell them http://www.parts-express.com/gold-12-awg-1-4-female-disconnect-5-pair--095-810. They cost more, but they always fit and you can actually disconnect them without destroying them. I get an assortment of large (0.25"), medium (0.187") & small (0.110"). Crimp them directly on the hook up wire.

  • I like to use the big (¼" diameter) speaker binding posts that PE and Madisound sell http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-bpa-38g-hd-binding-post-pair-gold--091-1245. To attach wires to them on the inside of a speaker cabinet, I crimp on these terminal rings http://www.parts-express.com/gold-ring-crimp-terminal-8-awg-1-4-2-pair--095-661. They come with other size rings for different binding posts.

  • I've also started using these http://meniscusaudio.com/terminal-strip-p-830.html. They, or other terminal strips like it, work great when wiring up the crossover parts, especially where several parts or wires on the ground side of the network have to join up.
 
Last edited:
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Swerd said:
PM me an email address, and I'll send you some photos of these methods that I'll try and describe below. Maybe, after school is out, you might want to visit. It's easier to demonstrate this than to describe it.

There are probably as many ways of putting crossover boards together as there are people who do it. It all depends on how much space is available, and your hand size. Once the board is assembled, you have to install it inside the cabinet. This can sometime involve working while blind. Here are a bunch of methods I have found that work for me, (ymmv):
  • I like to use either ~¼" Masonite hardboard or thin plywood for crossover boards. I used to use hot glue, but now use only cable ties. Hot glue isn't strong enough. Get the 8" long cable ties or an assortment of sizes at Home Depot. Pegboard is OK, but you will still need to drill holes for cable ties as the pegboard holes are never where you want them.

  • After laying out the parts on the board, I cable tie them to the board and twist the leads together. This requires some trial & error. Its easy to cut cable ties and start over.

  • For all wiring inside the cabinet, I use 16 or 18 gauge copper hook up wires (use two colors such as red & black). This is the kind sold in rolls at PE or Meniscus. http://www.parts-express.com/cat/single-conductor-hook-up-wire/1900. I used to use zip cord, but its too hard to see which is + and which is – in poor light. Others prefer that because they can feel the polarity markings on the insulation surface. I'd rather see the colors.

  • Get a crimp tool like this http://www.parts-express.com/gb-gs-366-wire-stripper-crimper--360-630. There are at least 3 ways I use this tool below. Also get one of these http://www.parts-express.com/automatic-wire-stripper-with-cutter--360-627. Whatever I had used for stripping insulation before I got this tool has been gathering dust for years.

  • There are many different ways to splice wires together. Some work well and others don't. After trying a few, I settled on this method. First, I strip off at least ½" insulation from the ends and line them up side-by-side. I cable tie them together and twist the wires together. Then I solder them, and cover the bare wire with these crimp-on caps http://www.parts-express.com/closed-end-insulated-crimp-terminal-connector-(16-10)-100-pcs--095-562. I used to use the twist-on caps, but they always came loose.

  • To attach hook-up wires to the terminals on the backs of drivers, don't use the cheap aluminum quick disconnects – they never fit right. Instead I buy brass ones from a local Advance Auto Parts store. PE and Madisound also sell them http://www.parts-express.com/gold-12-awg-1-4-female-disconnect-5-pair--095-810. They cost more, but they always fit and you can actually disconnect them without destroying them. I get an assortment of large (0.25"), medium (0.187") & small (0.110"). Crimp them directly on the hook up wire.

  • I like to use the big (¼" diameter) speaker binding posts that PE and Madisound sell http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-bpa-38g-hd-binding-post-pair-gold--091-1245. To attach wires to them on the inside of a speaker cabinet, I crimp on these terminal rings http://www.parts-express.com/gold-ring-crimp-terminal-8-awg-1-4-2-pair--095-661. They come with other size rings for different binding posts.

  • I've also started using these http://meniscusaudio.com/terminal-strip-p-830.html. They, or other terminal strips like it, work great when wiring up the crossover parts, especially where several parts or wires on the ground side of the network have to join up.
Click to expand...

That's like the most informative post to have ever graced TBT.
 
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Swerd said:
I'll send you some photos of these methods that I'll try and describe. Maybe, after school is out, you might want to visit. It's easier to demonstrate this than to describe it.
Click to expand...

He said from his van with "FREE CANDY & Puppies" written on the side.

van.jpg
 
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Sounds like a plan. Unfortunately due to all the snow days we don't get out until June 19th this year, while my last day is the 22nd. Ah-well soon enough. I've been meaning to visit Dennis as well. It'll be good to meet some more AH members. So far I'm up to Steve, Walter, and Alex.

Swerd said:
PM me an email address, and I'll send you some photos of these methods that I'll try and describe below. Maybe, after school is out, you might want to visit. It's easier to demonstrate this than to describe it.

There are probably as many ways of putting crossover boards together as there are people who do it. It all depends on how much space is available, and your hand size. Once the board is assembled, you have to install it inside the cabinet. This can sometime involve working while blind. Here are a bunch of methods I have found that work for me, (ymmv):
  • I like to use either ~¼" Masonite hardboard or thin plywood for crossover boards. I used to use hot glue, but now use only cable ties. Hot glue isn't strong enough. Get the 8" long cable ties or an assortment of sizes at Home Depot. Pegboard is OK, but you will still need to drill holes for cable ties as the pegboard holes are never where you want them.

  • After laying out the parts on the board, I cable tie them to the board and twist the leads together. This requires some trial & error. Its easy to cut cable ties and start over.

  • For all wiring inside the cabinet, I use 16 or 18 gauge copper hook up wires (use two colors such as red & black). This is the kind sold in rolls at PE or Meniscus. http://www.parts-express.com/cat/single-conductor-hook-up-wire/1900. I used to use zip cord, but its too hard to see which is + and which is – in poor light. Others prefer that because they can feel the polarity markings on the insulation surface. I'd rather see the colors.

  • Get a crimp tool like this http://www.parts-express.com/gb-gs-366-wire-stripper-crimper--360-630. There are at least 3 ways I use this tool below. Also get one of these http://www.parts-express.com/automatic-wire-stripper-with-cutter--360-627. Whatever I had used for stripping insulation before I got this tool has been gathering dust for years.

  • There are many different ways to splice wires together. Some work well and others don't. After trying a few, I settled on this method. First, I strip off at least ½" insulation from the ends and line them up side-by-side. I cable tie them together and twist the wires together. Then I solder them, and cover the bare wire with these crimp-on caps http://www.parts-express.com/closed-end-insulated-crimp-terminal-connector-(16-10)-100-pcs--095-562. I used to use the twist-on caps, but they always came loose.

  • To attach hook-up wires to the terminals on the backs of drivers, don't use the cheap aluminum quick disconnects – they never fit right. Instead I buy brass ones from a local Advance Auto Parts store. PE and Madisound also sell them http://www.parts-express.com/gold-12-awg-1-4-female-disconnect-5-pair--095-810. They cost more, but they always fit and you can actually disconnect them without destroying them. I get an assortment of large (0.25"), medium (0.187") & small (0.110"). Crimp them directly on the hook up wire.

  • I like to use the big (¼" diameter) speaker binding posts that PE and Madisound sell http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-bpa-38g-hd-binding-post-pair-gold--091-1245. To attach wires to them on the inside of a speaker cabinet, I crimp on these terminal rings http://www.parts-express.com/gold-ring-crimp-terminal-8-awg-1-4-2-pair--095-661. They come with other size rings for different binding posts.

  • I've also started using these http://meniscusaudio.com/terminal-strip-p-830.html. They, or other terminal strips like it, work great when wiring up the crossover parts, especially where several parts or wires on the ground side of the network have to join up.
Click to expand...
 
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