Questions on stepping up to making higher quality speaker wire

[Swerd]

My experience was the opposite. Started with this spread-the-wire type of plug and they always worked loose. Got set screw type and haven't looked back. I use the Sewell Silverback style with dual set screws....and you do need a good screwdriver that will allow you to torque those puppies down. Nothing has come loose over time this way. YMMV

I guess, that's why different types are made.

Most of those gold-plated brass items are made in Taiwan by a one or a few manufacturers. They're sold under a variety of brand names, but they're essentially the same.

 

[slipperybidness]

@Swerd
@lovinthehd

I own and use both the Silverbacks and the ones where the end unscrews and then screws back down onto the spread wire.

Both are good, but I prefer the screw-head variety.

On the silverbacks, I usually discard that bulky outer jacket and use some heat shrink instead. When you do that, you get a nice sleek plug.

 

[Snakebitten]

Lovinthehd I did indeed leave insulation for the lower down set screw. The opening is really that big that the short set screws go all the way into the channel with barely enough thread left to securely hold it tight on the 10 gauge insulation. It just screws right out into the channel on the exposed upper set screw part. Hence the doubling I did when I first put the cable together. Even that eventually settled and gave way.

EDIT: Just reread your post. Now I fully understand what you said. No I only did the insulation on the lower set screw. Will try this then. I guess just the 1/4" of the wier touching the upper portion is enough. I will still have to tape the wire insulation though as the lower set screw did not hold on the insulation. Thanks for that. I did not know there was a video on the plug. That would have saved me all this trouble.

Swerd the banana plugs you showed are exactly what I have on the 14 gauge as I mentioned way back in this thread. I have the Monster labeled ones but they are the same as the Sewells etc. Definitely the same company made these with different companies like Monster etc putting their label on it. Ive been using these Monster version of the same plug for years. I love them and I agree with you. In my experience they are way more secure and tight then these locking plugs Im having trouble with now. If the set screws on the GLS were longer I think there wouldn't be a problem with the 10 gauge. This locking plug is rated for 9mm - 18 mm wire according to some of the infor I read up on the net. No wonder the 10 gauge is just floating in there.

Only reson I went with the GLS was for the higher-end look since I was trying to replicate an pseudo AQ looking set of wires. I do like the GLS look way better than the Monsters but as of now the Monsters are light years ahead in ease to work with and tightness at least for my two wire sizes. Not to mention the busted locking pin on a few of them as well.

Nakamichi makes a fully copper (according to the website) locking plug that looks almost exactly like the GLS. If the GLS doesn't work out I may try those next as I like the look.

Thanks for the suggestions gentlemen.

 

[lovinthehd]

The video from the GLS page

Looks like the set screws are long enough there....makes me wonder if your screwdriver is sufficient?

 

[Snakebitten]

Just watched it. Thx. Then I did exactly like he did. The top screw is on the bare wire. The bottom screw is on the insulation. The way I read your post it seemed that both set screws were to be on the insulation and the 1/4” exposed wire would just be touching the upper portion of the connector.

I have the same type screw driver. Interesting that it works on the video. But I can tell you first hand it’s not as secure on my 10 gauge as that. If you look up some of the comments on Amazon you will see some having to source longer set screws to make a tight connection. I’ll see if I can take some pics or a short vid when I get some time these next few days.

 

[lovinthehd]

Just watched it. Thx. Then I did exactly like he did. The top screw is on the bare wire. The bottom screw is on the insulation. The way I read your post it seemed that both set screws were to be on the insulation and the 1/4” exposed wire would just be touching the upper portion of the connector.

I have the same type screw driver. Interesting that it works on the video. But I can tell you first hand it’s not as secure on my 10 gauge as that. If you look up some of the comments on Amazon you will see some having to source longer set screws to make a tight connection. I’ll see if I can take some pics or a short vid when I get some time these next few days.

Never used the GLS plugs, who knows maybe some bean counter said lets save some money on screws? You do need a small enough head on the screwdriver to get below the outer surface of the plug on the Silverbacks I use and then torque them down pretty good.

 

[Snakebitten]

Yeah. I have the eyeglasses set of screw drivers that work and also the reversible screw driver that comes with the GLS plugs.

I just took a look at it again. With the tape I think I have solved the lower part issue with the insulation and the lower set screw. But the bare wire part the strands just widenout when the set screw is screwed down and the fall into the channel. Solid wire would be much better with this. So I may have to just solder the exposed tip so it’s just one mass so the screw can’t spread them so it stays fat enough to keep the set screw tight in its threaded chamber instead of coming out the bottom.

Anyway I’ll get at this later in the week. But at least I have some ideas that should workout.

Just to give an idea of the size of the ID of this connector vs Belden 10 gauge:

Set screw all the way through and barely hanging on by a literal thread. On more slight twist and it falls into channel. Look at the gaping space beneath that screw: