Power hungry speakers

annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
<font color='#000000'>That amplifier would be a good choice. The AVR-3475 is a good choice as well.</font>
 
J

jdueitt

Audiophyte
<font color='#000000'>Zumbo hang in there!

There are a few of you guys spouting off about percentages of performance of class A/B amplifiers, class d amplifiers and etc. and quoting fabricated bs about manufacturers specifications. &nbsp;I see a lot of mis-informed engineer wana-be's. Exactly where are you applying that efficiency stage in the A/B circuit--input current and voltage or output current and voltage and at what frequency power supply in or out?? &nbsp;And are you under the impression there is a straight feed-thru of power wattage?? &nbsp;What do you think these engineers do when they design the power supply circuit?? &nbsp;What do you think doubling diode circuits do in the process or do you even know what that is?? &nbsp;What do you think the large storage capacitors do in the supply section?? &nbsp;What do you think the secondary windings and coils do in a circuit. &nbsp;You had better not work on a television with that attitude and thinking. &nbsp;You would soon meet your maker with a 50kv to 70kv (50,000 to 70,000 volts or better) discharge with more that adequate amperage storage to fry you permanently (kill you!). &nbsp;What does the power consumption tag say on your television? That consumption figure &nbsp;would certainly not give you a real indication of the voltage and current potential stored in a TV.

Engineers can design power supplies especially with the heavy bulky transformers in audio amplifers to do what they want them to do! &nbsp;All they need to do is add large capacitors, doubling circuits and other components to achieve what they want. &nbsp;And guess what you will see on the 120 volt consumption side....250 watts maybe or 500 watts maybe or maybe more. &nbsp;Speaker wattage output can be far greater output than is indicated on the primary consumption power input!!

Electronics engineering and board design is a little more sophistocated and much more capable than you give it credit for...or probably understand based on the foregoing stuff I read.

Until you can sit the equipment on you own bench and give it a test with proper test and load equipment--whether inductive or direct power resistors (such as dale or others) under monitoring control of high quality calibrated test equipment, &nbsp;I suggest you quit giving your interpretation of what amplifiers can and cannot do just because of your basic misunderstood arithmetic or desire to boast one manufacturers specs are a lie and another is not a lie. &nbsp;If you like a particular amplifier over another...just say so. &nbsp;you don't have to justify or compare it to another one. &nbsp;Regarding printed specifications...these manufacturers are obligated to be honest---lest the federal government would be all over them for fraudlent advertising (and they do keep tabs). &nbsp;You can bet that big guys (Denon, Yamaha, Krell, Onkyo and the list goes on) will for the most part be honest. &nbsp;You have to pay attention, however, when a manufacturer says his receiver puts out 110 watts per channel--is it at 1KHz or 20 to 20KHz (with how many channels driven) at what speaker inductive load (4 OHM or 8 OHM and etc) and at what total harmonic distortion is and etc and etc.

The objective of this forum, I am sure, is certainly not to prove who can electronically outdo who. &nbsp;What would be good, however, is if a manufacturer is fibbing about their specification, it needs to be acknowledged by someone who has thoroughly checked it out on a bench and then rechecked again. &nbsp;And I know there are highly qualified technical people in other forums in Audioholics who do test the audio equipment with high quality test equipment (as well as other review forums all over the internet) There are lots of people who read this forum looking for accurate, high quality information from people who have more experience then they, who would impart honest information to them. &nbsp; Not this nonsense bickering with no valid proof to back it up. &nbsp;Just give them your honest experience with your equipment which may be what they were intending to purchase and live with.

I am certain most all the big manufacturers build quality equipment and most likely you can take their specifications to the bank. &nbsp;Each maybe has different capabilities and different electronic design features. &nbsp;Decisions to purchase should be based on that information...but mostly listening, listening, listening and comparison, comparison, comparison...and what fits your pocket book. &nbsp;We can all be of benefit to the new guy who really needs honest, acurate information and help.

Regards,
Jd</font>
 
J

jdueitt

Audiophyte
<font color='#000000'>By the way Zumbo,

I would venture to say based on the 640VA power supply rating and the 71V caps, the RX-V2400 (I own one) would easily deliver 120wpc X 2 and about:

&nbsp; &nbsp;80wpc (ref 1KHz) X 5 all channels driven
&nbsp; &nbsp;60wpc (ref 1KHz) X 7 all channels driven
(assuming line voltage held constant, 8 ohm loads)

But this ain't bad--this is powerful--this is still the most powerful unit for the price range (and the 1400 for it's price range)--if you need more power put some mono-blocs on the front two channels. &nbsp;However this is still right up there as the best for the money for the Pre-Amp front and its features!!

It still holds its own with all others in all ways in its price range. &nbsp;So keep on feeling good about your system!!!

Personal Regards,
JD</font>
 
<font color='#000080'>We're actually in the process of configuring a device to allow us to test amplification against published specs for real-world numbers... It's not as significant as some would think, but we hope to bypass all the hoopla and show apples to apples (what we always strive to do).

In time, we'll outfit all of our reviewers with the unit - for now it will reside with Gene and be used on the higher end, or bleeding edge gear.</font>
 
N

nm2285

Senior Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>i never really considered separates or an integrated amp. &nbsp;i dont know much about them so i'll need some more advice:

I play dvds (music and movie), cds, and hope to upgrade to SACD sometime soon. &nbsp;I use my front two speakers and a subwoofer.

-will i lose any important options/connections by going to an integrated amp or stereo receiver?
-will i lose any important options/connections by selecting an integrated amp over a stereo receiver (other than a tuner)?

thanks</font>
 
P

pam

Audioholic
<table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
annunaki : <font color='#000000'>We are not limited in amperage however. We can go up to around 210-220 amperes of sevice on a 120 volt line. That is 25,200-26,400 watts.</font>
<font color='#000000'>Usually in my home one circuit is 15 amp so 15 amp * 120 = 1800 Watts. Also, the amplifier is not the only box on the circuit: DVD player, TV, etc.

A very powerfull amp can require 10-13 amp but this is when you are running it full blast which is not really recommended.</font>
 
J

jdueitt

Audiophyte
<font color='#000000'>Pam,

I think that the guy you pulled a quote in from using 200 amps plus, is operating a large Lincoln welding rig. &nbsp;Heck! he may have a Lincoln Amplifier--have they started building audio amplifiers???

Regards
JD</font>
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
<font color='#000000'>nm2285. I am going to give this one more shot because I spent most of my time dealing with mis-informed people, and not helping you.

If you have a sub and plan to upgrade to a SACD multi-channel player, and you want to spend around $500. There is ONE, and only ONE, answer.

Yamaha RX-V1400.......

In the future, if you feel your speakers that will be used on the front channel need more power, just add an amp!</font>
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
<font color='#000000'>I simply stated that there really is not much limit to amperege draw from a socket, if the socket is properly equipped as is the main breaker panel. I understand most homes only use 15-20 ampere circuits. However some audiophiles do upgrade these to accomodate large amplifiers. I was also using Yahmaha's spec on the wattage drawn. Also a Cathode Ray Tube is a MUCH different device than an amplifier. Yes, you can put in doubling devices and what not, but at what cost, audible noise ect. The last time I checked most televisions scan and operate at very high frequency, 15,000 hz? I also never claimed to be an engineer. However, the simple rules of ohms law still apply. Wattage, voltage and amperage are all related to one another. Yes you can up the voltage to a circuit, but now the amperage demands have gone down significantly. If you decrease the voltage your amperage demands go up. The ampereage demands will also increase if you try to get more wattage from a device. It takes power to make power. I do not see why the math is really that far off, yes it is not exact, yet here is an example.

In the April 2003 issue of Sound and Vision magazine a review was done on the Yahmaha RX-V730 Rated at 75 watts rms x 6.  I will try to get a link for the review. (their site is difficult to search for reviews)

In the test the Yahmaha Actually did 27 watts rms x 6 all channels driven simultaneously rms to 1% thd at 8 ohms at 1khz. In two channel mode it tested out (both channels driven simultaneously) to 81 watts rms x2 at 1%thd, 8 ohms, at 1khz. Now, 27 watts x 6 = 162 watts. 81 watts x 2=162 watts. So our amplifier's power supply is good for 162 watts rms all channels driven simultaneously at 1% thd at 8 ohms at 120 volts. Now taking the 162 total watts dividing by our 55% average class A/B efficency we get 294.55 watts of power consumtion. Guess what? Go here: http://www.yamaha.com/yec/customer/manuals/RX-V730_e.pdf
Go down to adobe page 70 and check out the power consumption specs. Holy crap!! I was only off by 4.55 watts!!! or roughly .85 PERCENT of the efficency (actual efficency on the amplifier would be around 55.85%). So what if my equation is not exact. It is pretty accurate for the real world.

Example 2
http://www.harmankardon.com/specifi....sType=H
http://manuals.harman.com/hk....iew.pdf
Check out spec sheet (first link) and look at power consumtion of 890 watts, note it is with 7 channels driven. The receiver is rated at 50 watts x 7. The receiver tested (page 4) at 73.8 watts rms x 5 all channels driven simultaneously, 20hz-20khz, 8 ohms, at .1% thd in surround mode. In two channel mode it tested at 90.4 watts rms x2 both channels driven into the same criteria. Now if we multiply 890 by .55 we get 489.5 watts. If we divide that by 7 we get 69.93 watts per channel which would corellate pretty well with what we are dealing with here. If they would have listed power drawn with only 5 channels driven I would have used that. Because the receiver is spec'ed into 7 channels adding of the two left and right channels, does not add up like it does with the Yahmaha. Which is only spec'ed out into two channels and has a smaller power supply. Even though it is &quot;supposed&quot; to be more powerful.</font>
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
<font color='#000000'>This is from the review in Home Theater mag.


And that says it all. With the RX-V2400, Yamaha delivers THX certification, the latest in surround decoding, enough power to drive reasonably sensitive speakers to ear-pinning levels, and a room-correction circuit that breaks into new (and I'd say improved) sonic territory. Droolers will love the receiver's tweaky features, but it's also good enough to seduce those who have resisted surround sound technology up till now. Home theater couldn't have a better diplomat.

* Mark Fleischmann is the author of Practical Home Theater, available through www.practicalhometheater.com (or 800/839-8640).

Highlights

• Rarities like parametric EQ and video conversion
• Seven channels of 120-watt joy—and no cheating
• Still uses the good old amber display

As you can see, your review and mine were from the same person. The score card reads as follows.

H/K: Build Quality/85 Value/90 Features/85 Performance/90 Ergonomics/85 (score:87)

Yammy: Build Quality/90 Value/96 Features/97 Performance94 Ergonomics/86 (score:92.6)



</font>
 
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Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
<font color='#000000'>annunaki, Your formula for watts is based on the receiver rated at a certain % of distortion compared to 2-channel opperation verses a 5 or 7 channel.

For example, the 2400 output with two channels driving 8ohm loads reaches .1% distortion at 102.9 watts and 1% distortion at 130.5 watts. Into 4ohms, the amplifier reaches .1% distortion at 158.4 watts and 1% distortion at 195.3 watts. With five channels driving 8ohm loads, the amplifier reaches .1% distortion at 43.5 watts and 1% distortion at 44.1 watts. With seven channels driving 8ohm loads, the amplifier reaches .1% distortion at 32.3watts and a 1% distortion at 36.9 watts. These are not PEAK watts, only the rate the distortion increases under a higher load!</font>
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
<font color='#000000'>nm2285, Your metal dome tweeters are going to be bright no matter which receiver/amp you choose.</font>
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
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zumbo : <font color='#000000'>annunaki, Your formula for watts is based on the receiver rated at a certain % of distortion compared to 2-channel opperation verses a 5 or 7 channel.

For example, the 2400 output with two channels driving 8ohm loads reaches .1% distortion at 102.9 watts and 1% distortion at 130.5 watts. Into 4ohms, the amplifier reaches .1% distortion at 158.4 watts and 1% distortion at 195.3 watts. With five channels driving 8ohm loads, the amplifier reaches .1% distortion at 43.5 watts and 1% distortion at 44.1 watts. With seven channels driving 8ohm loads, the amplifier reaches .1% distortion at 32.3watts and a 1% distortion at 36.9 watts. These are not PEAK watts, only the rate the distortion increases under a higher load!</font>
<font color='#000000'>Where did I state, anywhere in my last post, that those were peak numbers. They were all RMS numbers and I simply stated the distortion at those numbers. Using the numbers you just stated, one can obviuosly tell that it was rated driving only two channels. If it were rated driving all channels simultaneously it would be a 32 watt per channel receiver or a 36 watt per channel receiver. I would not pay for a receiver that CANNOT produce its rated power into all channels driven simultaneously. In my opinion you are not getting what they claim you are supposed to. According to Yahmaha you are supposed to get 120 watts rms x 7. Yet you really get 32 watts rms x 7. DO YOU GET WHAT I AM SAYING?? YOU ARE PAYING $999.99 FOR A 32 WATT RECEIVER (in surround mode)!!!! At least with the Harman Kardon you actually get what they claim (50 watt rms x 7) and then some (69.9 watts rms x 7). The Harman Kardon has more REAL POWER. The Yahmaha is nice if you are into changing the sound the artist intended you to hear with all of it's DSP. Where as H/K gives you less DSP processing in exchange for more power and more dynamic power.</font>
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
<font color='#000000'>One more thing, since when does having a metal dome tweeter automatically make it bright. I have heard soft dome tweeter that were brighter than metal domes. NHT makes a good speaker. While I have not had any real experience with them I cannot form an opinion on them. From reviews I have seen they are quite decent.</font>
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
<font color='#000000'>That only means the H/K has less distortion uder a load. READ IT AGAIN. Just put RMS where PEAK is!
That is not RMS either. Does it state RMS?</font>
 
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Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
<font color='#000000'>See, it is statements like this that make me laugh.
&quot;NHT makes a good speaker. While I have not had any real experience with them I cannot form an opinion on them. From reviews I have seen they are quite decent.&quot;</font>
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
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zumbo : <font color='#000000'>That only means the H/K has less distortion uder a load. READ IT AGAIN.</font>
<font color='#000000'>You need to learn how to read specs. IFAN AMPLIFIER PUTS OUT 36.9 WATT RMS X 7 ALL CHANNELS DRIVEN SIMULTANEOUSLY AT 1% THD, IT CANNOT PRODUCE ANY MORE POWER WITH LOWER DISTORTION. THE POWER WILL GO HIGHER BUT SO WILL DISTORTION. Yes, the H/K outputs MORE POWER at the same amount of THD. Why is this so hard to understand?</font>
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
<font color='#000000'>It DOES NOT SAY RMS! Can't you read!
For example, the 2400 output with two channels driving 8ohm loads reaches .1% distortion at 102.9 watts and 1% distortion at 130.5 watts. Into 4ohms, the amplifier reaches .1% distortion at 158.4 watts and 1% distortion at 195.3 watts. With five channels driving 8ohm loads, the amplifier reaches .1% distortion at 43.5 watts and 1% distortion at 44.1 watts. With seven channels driving 8ohm loads, the amplifier reaches .1% distortion at 32.3watts and a 1% distortion at 36.9 watts. These are not PEAK watts, only the rate the distortion increases under a higher load!</font>
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
<table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
zumbo : <font color='#000000'>See, it is statements like this that make me laugh.
&quot;NHT makes a good speaker. While I have not had any real experience with them I cannot form an opinion on them. From reviews I have seen they are quite decent.&quot;</font>
<font color='#000000'>Why is this funny? Based upon reviews I have seen, they appear to be a good speakers. I cannot form a real in depth opinion about them due to the fact I have no real world experience with them.
I stated this. Sorry It as not worded to your standards.</font>
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
<table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
zumbo : <font color='#000000'>It DOES NOT SAY RMS! Can't you read!</font>
<font color='#000000'>Then what is it, Peak? If that is the case it is even LOWER FOR RMS. Reread the entire technical section. ALL of their measurements taked are RMS.</font>
 

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