mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
.....here's a 10 inch and 12 inch element for front-firing cannons I'm considering for real....also the 10 and 12 that will take 500 and 600 which is the next grade up, the Van Gogh series....if I get those, I guess I'd have to stick my little finger out while sipping coffee, huh?.....

.....Guys, I'm sittin' on the corner with a tin cup for boxes....anyone know car boxes pretty well?....I could use advisement on which 10 or 12 also at the site the link gives....I'm wanting to get popped with the higher sub range 10 feet away, with bottom cut from either 50 or 80 down, and the cannons be very fast and accurate for music, and that last part says sealed boxes, over....I plead ignorance here and mean it....will anyone risk life-and-limb to quite probably be bestowed a green chicklet?....and guys, I've seen the subwoofer elements Kicker has, thanks....Brian said this Soundstream company had very good stuff....but they ain't got no boxes.....out the door to ride for awhile in some shorthills....there better be something to read here when I get back, or else......

http://www.soundstream.com/sub/products_subs_pica_d.html
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
Well, they're not cheap, but I think a JL Audio W7 10" in a sealed box would be excellent. Very linear, low distortion, high power handling, etc. Great woofers.



That's the 10 in the box the JL makes.

The driver alone:



The product page: http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/10w7.html#


You could also build your own box and just buy the driver off eBay, as you can usually find a good price on the W7 drivers there.
 
Buckeyefan 1

Buckeyefan 1

Audioholic Ninja
Mac, I agree with Jaxvon. Two will be an extremely pricey setup, but you won't do any better. I had a 2 channel Soundstream amp driving two 10" Kenwoods in my truck. The amp was very impressive for it's low cost, but the Kenwoods definitely had to go. I exchanged the Soundstream amp for the PMiller series class D mono amp and 2-10" DVC 2 ohm subs, and they go much lower, but I think I lost a little bit of punch. There's much less distortion, and they hit harder than the Kenwoods.

The JL W7, coupled with a massive, and I mean massive amp, will punch your heart out. With an underpowered amp, they'll struggle.
 
MacManNM

MacManNM

Banned
Mule,
How are you going to power these things? How do you plan to cross them over? The Drivers look very good for what you want to do. You are going to need one heck of a good box for this application. We're talking prob 1" thick MDF or something similar.
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
WmAx said:
Honestly, that would be complete waste, at least if the previously[very sub-optimal] published *details of the set-up that is planned are to be carried out... :rolleyes:

-Chris

*
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12548
.....WmAx, I want you in on this, so I just dragged my big sub boxes out in the back yard and chopped them up with a sharp axe for firewood to dry for November....maybe....now, I'm considering small cannons and that will be all I have....they will be bottom-cut at probably 50-60, and top cut I'm not sure, but it will be when the top end of the small cannon causes confusion or heaviness joining it against the woofer in my mains....that should be somewhere around 125-150, and that's lower than most people think....why won't that work, Chris?....why can't the small cannons take over where the main's woofers play out?....crap, it's just an 8 inch woofer in the main, and it's doing what it's supposed to, but it's just an 8 inch woofer, with an excursion of about 2 full inches and lightening fast, hooray....why wouldn't lightening-fast small cannons mix well, if phases were not stepped on to the point of heaviness and stayed clean, with brightess from the mains not suffering?.....
 
Last edited:
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
MacManNM said:
Mule,
How are you going to power these things? How do you plan to cross them over? The Drivers look very good for what you want to do. You are going to need one heck of a good box for this application. We're talking prob 1" thick MDF or something similar.
.....Mac, I will use a Crown K2 in normal stereo for them....I was especially noticing those Soundstream elements were dual voice-coiled....that would be a definite option to parallel the two sets of posts, and my amp just went from 800 of headroom on both sides, to 1250 of headroom on both sides, firing 2 ohm bullets at two voice coils....and, the amp won't be strapped, so I keep the damping factor....not sure I would need that much authority, and may just wire one set....is it not good for a dual voice-coiled element to only connect one, Mac?....I will probably wait awhile on another passive crossover unit, as I can play with the two sealed boxes with the Paradigm unit I have....I can take the top to 150, and I bet that will be enough....but I'll need two Paradigm passive units to work the small cannons and the big boxes I may glue back together....
 
Last edited:
brian32672

brian32672

Banned
I don't know about you, but I have a friend who does wood inlays. And he would rip that carpet off for me and put on a cherry, maple, etc.. veneer for just the cost of materials. Or free if I choose something he has sitting in the shop. If you get the sound you are looking for, you can always worry about the look after. You can even get home speaker front mesh, to make a grill from parts express.

Actually you could make them look like your PB4's
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
brian32672 said:
.....if I'm good with a computer???....is this Brian in Fort Lauderdale?, haha....hey, I'm thinking about building some boxes out of one inch something, using elmer's wood glue which magically turns into wood, four inch screws via pilot holes, and most importantly, a thick smoothed bead of silicon filling every internal edge and corner....then internal damping to taste....yeah, I've got a tablesaw....what I've got to do is go to a car shop locally and hear the difference between 10's and 12's from ten feet.....
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
brian32672 said:
I don't know about you, but I have a friend who does wood inlays. And he would rip that carpet off for me and put on a cherry, maple, etc.. veneer for just the cost of materials. Or free if I choose something he has sitting in the shop. If you get the sound you are looking for, you can always worry about the look after. You can even get home speaker front mesh, to make a grill from parts express.

Actually you could make them look like your PB4's
.....and could go with black painted box in dark room....I doubt I would want any covering over the elements.....
 
brian32672

brian32672

Banned
So you could do your own veneer to match your PB4's. Just need veneer contact cement. Stuff works great....
 
brian32672

brian32672

Banned
mulester7 said:
.....and could go with black painted box in dark room....I doubt I would want any covering over the elements.....
Or the black wood grain vinyl, that is on a lot of HT subs and speakers,
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
brian32672 said:
Or the black wood grain vinyl, that is on a lot of HT subs and speakers,
.....good suggestion, Brian, but dressing them would come later....and I suspect glossy black latex will probably win out....but we'll consider stuff, sure.....
 
brian32672

brian32672

Banned
mulester7 said:
.....good suggestion, Brian, but dressing them would come later....and I suspect glossy black latex will probably win out....but we'll consider stuff, sure.....

I agree thats why I had posted this in one of the above posts.

If you get the sound you are looking for, you can always worry about the look after.
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top