Need a sub for under $300.

Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
Works for me. I just wanted it to be clear for others who have no idea. They would be certain that a 12" would prevail "most of the time", when that is not fact. If we are talking equal money, that takes a product of the same model line out of it.

I would go as far to say, for equal retail money, a 10" would prevail most of the time.
 
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Wafflesomd

Wafflesomd

Senior Audioholic
OP, do you actually want to buy a sub or not?
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Works for me. I just wanted it to be clear for others who have no idea. They would be certain that a 12" would prevail "most of the time", when that is not fact. If we are talking equal money, that takes a product of the same model line out of it.

I would go as far to say, for equal retail money, a 10" would prevail most of the time.
I totally disagree with your last statement.

So you are saying that if there is a $500 10" sub and a $500 12" sub the 10" will play deeper??? :confused: This is not going to be the case in a majority of the time.

I would put my money on the 12" as having more usable reponse down low over the 10" explicitly for the reasons I stated above. Especially if they are sealed systems.

With ported systems it will directly correlate to the tuning frequency of each enclosure and the capabilities of the individual driver.

10" subs fit a niche for people constained by space. If 12" and larger woofers did not offer the following advantages: deeper usable response, increased output efficiency, higher output capability; there would be no need for them.

If "most 10 inch subs" played deeper than 12" subs, why do you think most companies flagship woofers are their biggest offerings? SVS= 13.5", JL Audio= dual 13.5", Velodyne= 18" and a 12" in the same cabinet, HSU= 12" (I Think), Paradigm= 15" or an 18" and the list goes on.

My rule of thumb is, if space is not an issue, get the largest sub for the money. Obviously there are a few larger woofers out there that do not play well down low but they are very few. Please cite some examples of where a 10" woofer is the better choice in terms of response down low. The only sub that comes to mind off the top of my head is the SVS entry level 10" option. It is good down to about 18hz or so. However, for the same price I am quite positive there are other options out there that feature a 12" that will have more energy at those frequencies.

You also need to remember that room size plays an integral part of subwoofer selection.

A 12" driver if given equal terms as the 10", will always have lower response than the 10". In a ported application, even if tuned to the same frequency, the 12" will "seem" to play deeper as it will have more output capability at the tuning frequency. Like I stated above in a sealed application, unless a 10" has significant amount of excursion the 12" will again play deeper. It is a matter of the amount of air moved. A 12" cone can move more air per distance traveled than a 10" cone period. Unless the 10" cone can move a significant amount of distance to make up for the loss in cone area the 12" will win out most every time. However, it will be dependent upon sub woofer design. You could not put a 12" PA speaker against a 10" home theater woofer. You would have two completely different designs for different applications.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I currently have a Polk PSW-111 sub, and it is disappointing at best. I previously auditioned a boston acoustics XB4 that could really shake my room with the explosions in V for Vendetta, but this PSW-111 one can do no such thing without turning the volume way up. I would go back to that XB4 but sadly it doesn't seem to be available in my area anymore, so I am looking for an alternative.

I only want to buy B&M, and the SVS/HSU subs are beyond my price range anyways. Does anybody have any good recommendations?

I have found that Fry's electronics offers the Velodyne VX-10 for $149, but that is only half the price of what they sell the PSW-111 for so I am a bit hesitant in that I am not sure if it can do what I am expecting.
Why are you only limited to B&M stores?

If that is your only option look into the JBL SUB12 12" woofer. it has response down to 25hz and should be able to be purchased for $300 or so with some good sweet talking ;)

Also check into the DCM TB1212 it is only rated to 27hz but seems significatly deeper in room. If you can you may be able to squeeze it for $300.

Pinnacle offers their AC-Sub100 for around that price too. It is a 10" good down to 33hz (sealed) but should do pretty well also.

They also have the sub-150 which is a 12" and is good down to 30hz (sealed). These sound great for music.

The BIC V-1220 can be had around that price point. I am not sure how they perform though.

The Velodyne VRP1200 should be able to be had for about that price as well. I know I have sold them around that point before.
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
I never said, or meant to say, a 10" sub will go deeper than a 12". In the case of a 10" sub costing the same as a 12", there is a good chance the 10" will go deeper, there will be more power, and it will just be a better purchase.(most of the time)

I am saying, that for equal money, a 10" sub will be the better option.(most of the time)

I am also saying, driver size has nothing to do with FR.
 
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WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
If you want 28hrtz, don't get anything below a 12" sub.
I have some 10" drivers on hand (Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1) that will play at 20Hz -3db in 3.0 ft^3 cabinet with the appropriate vent or passive radiator. Not only will this driver reproduce this frequency, it will do so with relative high SPL and very low distortion(assuming proper cabinet design). Granted, this is a superbly engineered driver. But it is a 10" driver, and it's not one of those 'super excursion' drivers like a Tumult or JL W7 or otherwise.

-Chris
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I never said, or meant to say, a 10" sub will go deeper than a 12". In the case of a 10" sub costing the same as a 12", there is a good chance the 10" will go deeper, there will be more power, and it will just be a better purchase.(most of the time)

I am saying, that for equal money, a 10" sub will be the better option.(most of the time)

I would say that might be the case some of the time but I don't think it would be most of the time. Semantics, I know, but it is the way I view it.

It essentailly comes down to excecution and application more than even price. If a person were looking at xyz brand 12" sub, and it was a sealed enclosure good to about 30hz (+/-3db) and a person recommended a 10" ported design for the same money that was capable of output down to 20hz (+/-3db) I would probably recommend the 10". IF they were the same price and/or that was the intention of the purchaser. If their primary focus was music at a moderate to high volume, the 12" may be the better choice. Again this would come down to the execution of the design.

In the end, listening can be very important in deciding a product.
 
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Wafflesomd

Wafflesomd

Senior Audioholic
I have some 10" drivers on hand (Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1) that will play at 20Hz -3db in 3.0 ft^3 cabinet with the appropriate vent or passive radiator. Not only will this driver reproduce this frequency, it will do so with relative high SPL and very low distortion(assuming proper cabinet design). Granted, this is a superbly engineered driver. But it is a 10" driver, and it's not one of those 'super excursion' drivers like a Tumult or JL W7 or otherwise.

-Chris
Yah, but all of your equipment is DIY. Not to mention you're basically a living audio dictionary.
 
D

drummerman

Audiophyte
need a sub for under $300

To Alfawolf
I read where you were unhappy with the psw111 I have a Velodyne dls 3500 in new condition that puts out too much thunder for my small room wanna trade?i
 

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