Mountain biking with pics

lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Something like this video at the Alpine would be awesome.

Are these shuttle runs? I didn't see anyone pedaling in any of the videos I watched.
Many people shuttle Alpine to simply make it manageable, it is a fairly big ride as a loop with a climb up road 1912 (over 3000 ft elevation gain up to Kate's Cut-In, the usual shuttle drop). That vid is kind of all over the place as to where along the trail you are at any given moment (and the vid is by my friend Chad :) ). From the shuttle drop it's still a 14 or so mile ride with about 1500 ft elevation gain along the trail in a few relatively short climbs. Quite a bit of it is flowy and fun but there's a bit of chunk and exposure, too, so again depends on WAF. Shuttles to the trails are a great way to spend time here to maximize trail enjoyment, as most of them are ridden on logging roads up and down the singletrack (which won't be all downhill) and mostly involve very long slogs up those logging roads.

Also check out this site's take on the area, https://ridespots.com/destination/oakridge/
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
@ParadigmDawg another place that's cool to ride is up around Waldo Lake (about 35 miles east of Oakridge up near Willamette Pass), it has a 20 plus mile singletrack around a gorgeous lake with no development except for campgrounds (and no motor boats, except electric, allowed), altho that will be at elevation of 5400 ft with lots of little ups and downs along the trail (about 2000 ft elevation gain for the whole ride)....some root/rock but fairly pedaling friendly.

ps LOL forgot how much of this thread already covered that....
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Are you guys running dropper posts? I am usually the early adopter around here but most people are running them even for CX riding and I haven't purchased one yet and not sure I see where I need it.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Are you guys running dropper posts? I am usually the early adopter around here but most people are running them even for CX riding and I haven't purchased one yet and not sure I see where I need it.
I do not have a dropper, but I would certainly like one! On my Cujo, I think my seat post sizing only gives me 1 or 2 options for a dropper.

I'm pretty sure my next bike will have a dropper, that's something I want. Just seems to get you better control for the downhills. I guess I could try a little manual dropping to see if it really seems like it is worth it (to me). Likely don't need it, but still want it ;)

I'm getting back more and more into the sport. I think I told y'all in some thread, I broke my ankle in 3 places in a mtb crash about 10 years ago. 8 screws and a plate in my ankle, but I'm at 95% on that ankle.

I watch a lot of Youtube on mtb. My favorite channels are GMBN and Seth's bike hacks.

From everything I read and see on youtube, the 1st upgrade to do is going tubeless on the tires, and the 2nd upgrade is going to a dropper.

Well, I resisted tubeless for years! When I went to + tires on the Cujo, it made sense to save as much weight on those wheels as possible, so I went tubeless. 5 months, riding every weekend, before I had my first flat! I'm sold on tubeless!

Since the experts nailed the advice on tubeless, I suspect that they nailed it on the dropper too.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Are you guys running dropper posts? I am usually the early adopter around here but most people are running them even for CX riding and I haven't purchased one yet and not sure I see where I need it.
Around here most use them, many bikes now come with them, too. Can't think of any bikes during the TransCascadia race that didn't have one. I've been using them for 10 plus years (original Gravity Dropper for that first one; my new bike came with a RockShox Reverb along with internal hose routing in the frame). I use it frequently during a ride, definitely better to get saddle low for descending in general, but especially for technical descents. If I were in flatter terrain maybe not so useful, but they really work well in rolling terrain with constant little ups and downs, too.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I do not have a dropper, but I would certainly like one! On my Cujo, I think my seat post sizing only gives me 1 or 2 options for a dropper.

I'm pretty sure my next bike will have a dropper, that's something I want. Just seems to get you better control for the downhills. I guess I could try a little manual dropping to see if it really seems like it is worth it (to me). Likely don't need it, but still want it ;)

I'm getting back more and more into the sport. I think I told y'all in some thread, I broke my ankle in 3 places in a mtb crash about 10 years ago. 8 screws and a plate in my ankle, but I'm at 95% on that ankle.

I watch a lot of Youtube on mtb. My favorite channels are GMBN and Seth's bike hacks.

From everything I read and see on youtube, the 1st upgrade to do is going tubeless on the tires, and the 2nd upgrade is going to a dropper.

Well, I resisted tubeless for years! When I went to + tires on the Cujo, it made sense to save as much weight on those wheels as possible, so I went tubeless. 5 months, riding every weekend, before I had my first flat! I'm sold on tubeless!

Since the experts nailed the advice on tubeless, I suspect that they nailed it on the dropper too.
You mean the diameter of the seat tube as far as sizing goes or ? You can usually find a shim to adapt. If other reasons....might still be solutions.

I've now had tubeless for a year and like them (and didn't need to do anything but keep air in 'em), altho yesterday did notice some spooging of the Stan's juice thru the sidewalls on one side of my rear tire....I blame it on rock scraping :)
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
You mean the diameter of the seat tube as far as sizing goes or ? You can usually find a shim to adapt. If other reasons....might still be solutions.

I've now had tubeless for a year and like them (and didn't need to do anything but keep air in 'em), altho yesterday did notice some spooging of the Stan's juice thru the sidewalls on one side of my rear tire....I blame it on rock scraping :)
Yeah, I think the deal is that my seat post is too small diameter for most droppers. It seems to be a 27.2mm. A shim won't help me, right?

Any ideas on that?

As far as tubeless, my LBS only uses Orange Seal. They say that all the other products contain ammonium (somewhat corrosive to non-anodized parts). And, Orange Seal is a local company.

Furthermore, the few tests that I've seen, looks like Orange Seal is also the best performer. But, I know Stan's has a pretty big following too.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Yeah, I think the deal is that my seat post is too small diameter for most droppers. It seems to be a 27.2mm. A shim won't help me, right?

Any ideas on that?

As far as tubeless, my LBS only uses Orange Seal. They say that all the other products contain ammonium (somewhat corrosive to non-anodized parts). And, Orange Seal is a local company.

Furthermore, the few tests that I've seen, looks like Orange Seal is also the best performer. But, I know Stan's has a pretty big following too.
My Gravity Droppers are 27.2s, have both the classic and a turbo model (and use a shim for my bikes with larger seat tubes, but still have a 27.2 bike or two).

Our bike shop uses Orange Seal but my bike came with several bottles of Stan's so I used it; think the shop uses Orange Seal due to cost reasons for bulk buying, they both work well enough (or you can even make your own juice if you want). Didn't know about the ammonium thing but will check that out when I change out that rear tire since I'm running aluminum rims currently (but will probably change to carbon for the next wheelset).
 
adk highlander

adk highlander

Sith Lord
I will have a new toy to share on Sat when I pick it up. And it does have a dropper post which will be my first one. The cables are internally routed so it has a very clean look which I really like vs. have it run on the outside of the bike.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I will have a new toy to share on Sat when I pick it up. And it does have a dropper post which will be my first one. The cables are internally routed so it has a very clean look which I really like vs. have it run on the outside of the bike.
Congrats! You could at least post up a catalog pic :)
 
adk highlander

adk highlander

Sith Lord
I know I was just playing coy.

Here is the beast 2016 Rocky Mountain Thunderbolt BC edition :cool::D:D:
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I thought the thread title was Mountain Biking with Pigs. I'm out.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
My Gravity Droppers are 27.2s, have both the classic and a turbo model (and use a shim for my bikes with larger seat tubes, but still have a 27.2 bike or two).

Our bike shop uses Orange Seal but my bike came with several bottles of Stan's so I used it; think the shop uses Orange Seal due to cost reasons for bulk buying, they both work well enough (or you can even make your own juice if you want). Didn't know about the ammonium thing but will check that out when I change out that rear tire since I'm running aluminum rims currently (but will probably change to carbon for the next wheelset).
Just FYI, what the LBS told me about corrosion is that you would typically see it at the hole in the rim for the valve stem. He said that spot tends to be where the finish on the rim is the worst, so it would corrode there first.

I suspect that it would take years to get any corrosion significant enough to worry about.
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Just FYI, what the LBS told me about corrosion is that you would typically see it at the hole in the rim for the valve stem. He said that spot tends to be where the finish on the rim is the worst, so it would corrode there first.

I suspect that it would take years to get any corrosion significant enough to worry about.
I have always used Stans but I am going to try OS next tire change. Honestly, I have been running tubeless for 7 years now and maybe have had 2 flats during that time and I was able to ride out both times after putting my tire back on the rim. It burped the tire in both cases since the pressure got so low before I new it.

I have carbon wheels so I don't know about corrosion issues, I should pull a tire off of my wife's mountain bike and she if a bike with alum wheels, that has been racked for 2 years now, has an issue.

That reminds me, I should sell her bike. Anyone want a Yeti ASR5 with Stans/Chris King wheels and XTR? Oh wait, it has 26" tires and she wouldn't let me sell it when there was still a market for 26 so it's worthless...:(
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
I have always used Stans but I am going to try OS next tire change. Honestly, I have been running tubeless for 7 years now and maybe have had 2 flats during that time and I was able to ride out both times after putting my tire back on the rim. It burped the tire in both cases since the pressure got so low before I new it.

I have carbon wheels so I don't know about corrosion issues, I should pull a tire off of my wife's mountain bike and she if a bike with alum wheels, that has been racked for 2 years now, has an issue.

That reminds me, I should sell her bike. Anyone want a Yeti ASR5 with Stans/Chris King wheels and XTR? Oh wait, it has 26" tires and she wouldn't let me sell it when there was still a market for 26 so it's worthless...:(
Man, you can get some smoking deals on old and NOS 26" high end kit nowadays! I've seen some of the $1k forks going for $200 NOS! Dunno, if you don't care about latest and greatest, there are some great 26" around for a song nowadays (not what you want to hear :p:p)

You do all the tubeless work and recharging yourself? I haven't done it yet, LBS set me up on new bike, then when I finally got a flat I also had a broken spoke and time for a tuneup, so I just let them recharge both my tires while it was in the shop.

Dunno, it just looks like it may be messy work. For $50 for all the parts and labor at setup, I wouldn't touch it myself at that price. Then, my LBS offers free labor for the 1st year, so 2 tires recharged, tuneup, replace a spoke, grand total = $12!

I can tell you, at this point, I am absolutely sold on the 27.5+ tires (3" wide)! Yeah, they are a bit heavier and a bit more power to spin up, but the confidence and traction is worth it to me! I'm not a racer, biking is a way to clear my mind and get some exercise, and since I'm well over 200lbs, a little extra weight on the tires is worth the trade to me.
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Man, you can get some smoking deals on old and NOS 26" high end kit nowadays! I've seen some of the $1k forks going for $200 NOS! Dunno, if you don't care about latest and greatest, there are some great 26" around for a song nowadays (not what you want to hear :p:p)

You do all the tubeless work and recharging yourself? I haven't done it yet, LBS set me up on new bike, then when I finally got a flat I also had a broken spoke and time for a tuneup, so I just let them recharge both my tires while it was in the shop.

Dunno, it just looks like it may be messy work. For $50 for all the parts and labor at setup, I wouldn't touch it myself at that price. Then, my LBS offers free labor for the 1st year, so 2 tires recharged, tuneup, replace a spoke, grand total = $12!

I can tell you, at this point, I am absolutely sold on the 27.5+ tires (3" wide)! Yeah, they are a bit heavier and a bit more power to spin up, but the confidence and traction is worth it to me! I'm not a racer, biking is a way to clear my mind and get some exercise, and since I'm well over 200lbs, a little extra weight on the tires is worth the trade to me.
Yes, I do all my own stuff. It take about 10 minutes to recharge both tires unless I am pulling them off and cleaning out the old stuff. I used to do that but now I just leave the old buggers in there and recharge through the valve stem.
 
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