Me documenting my Dayton 18-22 cabinet build and thanks to...

[moves]

I just drill the pivot hole for the circle jig thru multiple layers with the stack just clamped together. Then the same center works for all the circle cuts on the pieces individually.

Yes that works. It was my first go at it so there will be mistakes. I think so far so good though.

 

[moves]

Yes that works. It was my first go at it so there will be mistakes. I think so far so good though.[/Q

I also didn't have a 3 inch long thin bit that I used for the hole in my jig. What do you use as a pivot? A brass rod?

 

[moves]

Guys, any suggestions on how to apply the air tight seal between that sticks onto the MDF around the baffle? Do I stick it on and then drill through it for the holes? Do I place it tight against the 90 degree recessed part, in the middle, on the inside edge?

 

[Swerd]

I like to use one of these three gaskets to seal drivers:
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-12-speaker-sealing-caulk-box-of-72-pcs--260-400
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-1-2-x-50-ft-roll--260-542
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540

Do I stick it on and then drill through it for the holes? Do I place it tight against the 90 degree recessed part, in the middle, on the inside edge?

I usually use sealing caulk because I have lots of it. Parts Express used to include it with a driver. I roll it out much thinner and stick it where ever I can. It's like thick black wax, and spreads when you compress it. Screws and bolts easily go through it.

If you use the gasket tape, you can easily poke a hole with an awl or nail where you've already made a hole for a bolt. I don't think it matters just where on the flange you place it as long as you get a seal.

 

[highfigh]

I like everything about the 1" MDF except the weight. The rabbeted corners are a new approach that looks interesting. Keep the pic's coming por favor.

One thing of some concern is mixing ply with mdf. I believe JL Audio had something on their site saying to use the same material for the braces that you use for the cabinet. The details escape me. The other thing I remember is that they said not to use particle board. I've broken both those rules on the same build without hesitation or regret, FWIW.

Technically, particle board is a wood product and MDF is more of a paper product, because of the small particle size and the fact that it fails in layers. The density of MDF (the good stuff) is about 105lb/49" x 97" sheet and particle board is about 15% less. MDF (again, the good stuff) is definitely stiffer, too. I have stopped buying from big box stores because the quality is just not as good as it is from a couple of local dealers and I have used materials like these for over 40 years- the only projects that were less than successful had materials from Home Depot and Menard's (Lowe's doesn't have a store close enough to bother with). Also, particle board absorbs moisture more readily than MDF, so it can become a bit like a soggy saltine cracker. Particle board was referred to as 'the hot dog of building materials' by the guy I go to for sharpening blades and cutters.

 

[highfigh]

Personally, and this comes from building hundreds of boxes from particle board, plywood and MDF, I recommend using screws to assemble these boxes if butt-joints are used, to maintain structural integrity. I made one from material that looked a lot like MDF but was more similar to untempered Masonite and it was very flexible. I used brad nails and it was terrible- it only became acceptable after I screwed all of the joints together. I would recommend dado and rabbet joints if fasteners aren't used and the joints need to be snug.

If this was solid wood, the joints would be stronger than the wood, but MDF and particle board fail closer to the joint.

 

[moves]

Here is the solder job that looks like a bit of a mess. My wife did it haha I didn't have the patience for it. It's tight and doesn't come loose when I yank on it. Do you think it is okay?

I decided to go 1 cable per voice coil as the voltage is safer from the amp. I am using the +1 - 1 and +2 -2 and then will just connect the bare wire to the speaker terminals for each channel of the amp.

Wood working is more my thing. Here is the baffle finally being glued on.

 

[moves]

I like to use one of these three gaskets to seal drivers:
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-12-speaker-sealing-caulk-box-of-72-pcs--260-400
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-1-2-x-50-ft-roll--260-542
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540
I usually use sealing caulk because I have lots of it. Parts Express used to include it with a driver. I roll it out much thinner and stick it where ever I can. It's like thick black wax, and spreads when you compress it. Screws and bolts easily go through it.

If you use the gasket tape, you can easily poke a hole with an awl or nail where you've already made a hole for a bolt. I don't think it matters just where on the flange you place it as long as you get a seal.

Nice I got the gasket tape already. Will apply it shortly.

 

[KEW]

Has anyone tried a lock miter router bit like this for building speakers?
It seems like a good way to go!?
I know mdf routes with wonderfully crisp contours!

Sorry for the hi-jack, Moves, but it seems at least a little relevant.

 

[moves]

Yes lock mitred joints would be great. My current speaker (That I didn't make) have lock metered joints.

Has anyone tried a lock miter router bit like this for building speakers?
It seems like a good way to go!?
I know mdf routes with wonderfully crisp contours!

Sorry for the hi-jack, Moves, but it seems at least a little relevant.

 

[Swerd]

Has anyone tried a lock miter router bit like this for building speakers?

I've never tried a bit like that for two reasons:

• It might get real hard to use with a hand held router, even unsafe. It would probably require a router table.
• It's also been my impression that a lock miter bit can work well with hard wood sticks (as shown in the photo) but not with larger panels of MDF needed for a speaker cabinet. The lock miter "grooves" in MDF might crumble or break during assembly, especially if you have to use a rubber mallet.

 

[KEW]

I've never tried a bit like that for two reasons:

• It might get real hard to use with a hand held router, even unsafe. It would probably require a router table.
• It's also been my impression that a lock miter bit can work well with strips of hard wood (as shown in the photo) but not with larger panels of MDF needed for a speaker cabinet. The lock miter "grooves" in MDF might crumble or break during assembly, especially if you have to use a rubber mallet.

You would definitely need a router table in order to route long edges without any flaws!
But as this photo from @MrBoat 's shop shows, there is no reason for any woodworker not to have a router table, they are far too useful and far too easy to make!

(I would probably go to Lowes or HD for one of their"scrap" pieces of linoleum covered counter tops, I suspect MrBoat threw this together from scraps he had on hand).

As for point two, these joints fit without having to force them. You would never use a rubber mallet on them! I would route both edges of all four pieces - both sides, the top, and bottom. Use a chip brush or air to make sure no saw dust remained on the surfaces. Apply glue to all surfaces, and use a band clamp to squeeze out the glue and pull joints tight, "wiggling" the box every now and then as I tightened the clamp to help insure all surfaces are finding their new homes. None of the routed profile corners are less than 90 degrees so they are not particularly frail, but there is no source of resistance to require forcing it together.
You may experience some resistance using real wood because the panels being joined may be warped and you have to pull the warp out of the wood as you clamp them, but not a problem with mdf panels.

 

[moves]

Any comments on the solder? I am wondering if it'll pass.

 

[MrBoat]

You would definitely need a router table in order to route long edges without any flaws!
But as this photo from @MrBoat 's shop shows, there is no reason for any woodworker not to have a router table, they are far too useful and far too easy to make!
.

I end up using that router table for a lot of other things too. Especially since I mostly prefer to work outdoors. It was invaluable for holding parts while I was spraying lacquer. Just having someplace clean to set the overflow of separate parts on. I end up using it like a workmate bench much of the time.

It does actually have an undercarriage that uses plywood (it's perfectly acceptable to mix plywood with MDF) and solid wood. The plywood rips on edge, make the top much stronger and also keep it flat. MDF rails would sag over time, since it has no real directional strength, even on edge, without becoming massive to scale, or as a continuous web all of the way to a rigid foundation.

Crude, yes, but I was done with it in under 30 minutes and it's been used a lot. It is glued at least.

 

[MrBoat]

Any comments on the solder? I am wondering if it'll pass.

Those solder joints are too cold IMO. It should flow into the strands. What solder did you use? I use 60/40 rosin core. The wire should absorb the solder, not build up on it like that. Wire needs to be clean.

When you solder, part of the soldering iron tip needs to be touching the wire to heat it too. In that case, it should be touching that spade and the wire. I typically trap the very point of the tip a bit under the wire and feed the solder to the tip of the iron where it is sort of trapped between the wire and the tip. The molten solder and the solder iron will help heat the wire and the flux will help it form a capillary attraction, to where the wire actually draws the solder to it. No bodging around trying to make it stick.

 

[Swerd]

@moves – I agree with MrBoat.

The molten solder and the solder iron will help heat the wire and the flux will help it form a capillary attraction, to where the wire actually draws the solder to it. No bodging around trying to make it stick.

If the wires are heated enough, the solder melts quickly and is rapidly drawn into the joint. With wires that thick, 14g?, and a typical small soldering iron, it can be a long wait before it gets hot enough. Holding the iron and the joint by hand while waiting can be tough – clips or support of some kind are useful.

That's also why I use 16g wire when soldering, nothing thicker.

 

[Swerd]

You would definitely need a router table in order to route long edges without any flaws!
But as this photo from @MrBoat 's shop shows, there is no reason for any woodworker not to have a router table, they are far too useful and far too easy to make!

(I would probably go to Lowes or HD for one of their"scrap" pieces of linoleum covered counter tops, I suspect MrBoat threw this together from scraps he had on hand).

As for point two, these joints fit without having to force them. You would never use a rubber mallet on them! I would route both edges of all four pieces - both sides, the top, and bottom. Use a chip brush or air to make sure no saw dust remained on the surfaces. Apply glue to all surfaces, and use a band clamp to squeeze out the glue and pull joints tight, "wiggling" the box every now and then as I tightened the clamp to help insure all surfaces are finding their new homes. None of the routed profile corners are less than 90 degrees so they are not particularly frail, but there is no source of resistance to require forcing it together.
You may experience some resistance using real wood because the panels being joined may be warped and you have to pull the warp out of the wood as you clamp them, but not a problem with mdf panels.

Do you speak from experience using lock miter bits on speaker cabinet sized MDF panels? I know you have more wood working experience than I do.

 

[MrBoat]

@moves – I agree with MrBoat.
If the wires are heated enough, the solder melts rapidly and is rapidly drawn into the joint. With wires that thick, 14g?, and a typical small soldering iron, it can be a long wait before it gets hot enough. Holding the iron and the joint by hand while waiting can be tough – clips or support of some kind are useful.

That's also why I use 16g wire when soldering, nothing thicker.

Agreed. The spades and whatnot on that joint are added heat sink to overcome as well. .

 

[moves]

This is what I was afraid of.... I 'll try again .... How would I clean off the solder on the terminals? They are 12 AWG wire.

 

[MrBoat]

This is what I was afraid of.... I 'll try again .... How would I clean off the solder on the terminals? They are 12 AWG wire.

Best way is with a solder sucker but you should be able to heat that and drag/scrape it off with a metal pick or something,