Marantz 7011 with no sound output when the source is an HDMI input

V

Vitor Almeida

Enthusiast
#1
Hi!
My Marantz 7011 as no audio output, nor in the speakers, nor through the TV (HDMI output),when the signal input is through an HDMI input. No TV audio either in the speakers using ARC. The image is good but with any sound!
If the audio signal input is through the network (HEOS or other) or through the phono input the output sound is good.
If the power is off the sound and image are good in the TV (HDMI output) using the pass-through mode!
I did several restarts using the manual instructions’, I did a restart also after one day with the AVR disconnected from the power outlet and with no other cables connected to it, except the speakers’ ones.
I tried several HDMI inputs with several types of sources (Blue-ray, TV box, media player) and no sound, but normal image!
I tried all type of configurations I could remember and I noticed that things like the Audissey modes are not accessible in the menu that shows in the TV. The mobile phone app doesn't show the type of input signal or, by the way, the type of the output audio signal. It shows the type of video conversion in the menu in the TV.
My impression is that the HDMI input processing of the audio part is off!
Next week I am going to send it to where I bought it (Germany) to repair!

I also notice that it did a software update a few days before I noticed the lack of HDMI input sound (most of the time I use it in pass-through mode so I don't need to power it on every time I am viewing TV)!

Any suggestion to some type of test or action in the AVR to try to solve this situation?
Thank you!
Best regards
Vitor Almeida
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Samurai
Ratings
866 9 11
#2
Hi!
My Marantz 7011 as no audio output, nor in the speakers, nor through the TV (HDMI output),when the signal input is through an HDMI input. No TV audio either in the speakers using ARC. The image is good but with any sound!
If the audio signal input is through the network (HEOS or other) or through the phono input the output sound is good.
If the power is off the sound and image are good in the TV (HDMI output) using the pass-through mode!
I did several restarts using the manual instructions’, I did a restart also after one day with the AVR disconnected from the power outlet and with no other cables connected to it, except the speakers’ ones.
I tried several HDMI inputs with several types of sources (Blue-ray, TV box, media player) and no sound, but normal image!
I tried all type of configurations I could remember and I noticed that things like the Audissey modes are not accessible in the menu that shows in the TV. The mobile phone app doesn't show the type of input signal or, by the way, the type of the output audio signal. It shows the type of video conversion in the menu in the TV.
My impression is that the HDMI input processing of the audio part is off!
Next week I am going to send it to where I bought it (Germany) to repair!

I also notice that it did a software update a few days before I noticed the lack of HDMI input sound (most of the time I use it in pass-through mode so I don't need to power it on every time I am viewing TV)!

Any suggestion to some type of test or action in the AVR to try to solve this situation?
Thank you!
Best regards
Vitor Almeida
Do a factory rest and see if that helps.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
Ratings
7,253 17 24
#3
I agree. Do a factory reset and do the setup again.

I doubt this will do the trick, but worth a try. It most likely need a new HDMI board.

Although this is not a current model, I assume it is still under warranty, as otherwise this will be expensive.

Make sure you have enough space round the receiver when you get it back.

Personally I would never buy a receiver like that. Receivers never a good idea, are now totally out of bounds, with far too much in one box. That number of amps have absolutely no business in with all that processing electronics.

If I bought a unit like that I would expect it to fail and not be in the least surprised when it did.

I think the argument for separates is now overwhelming unless we can return to simpler higher quality 5.1 receivers and have all the bells and whistles for streaming in separate units. However I think the most important thing is to get the power amps out of those boxes. That I think would go a long way to mitigating against the problem you have experienced.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Overlord
Ratings
4,180 16 37
#4
It does seem to be unusual for all the hdmi sources to have what sounds like an hdmi handshake issue. Assume you have ARC enabled in both tv and avr? Correct output via hdmi for the other devices? Checked the input assigment in the avr to make sure everything is set to hdmi? When turning things on, try tv first, then avr then source?
 
S

snakeeyes

Audioholic General
Ratings
526 1 1
#5
So everything was working and suddenly all hdmi ports stop producing sound and only do video? That is a nightmare. Ya try to get it fixed.

You might be able to temporarily use optical for 5.1 sound from the tv to the AVR and run all hdmi devices to the tv if it has enough ports. Depends on what TV etc. if this is feasible.
 
V

Vitor Almeida

Enthusiast
#6
Hi!
Thank you all for your answers!
I already did all the resets/restarts I could, from the user´s manual and from the technical manual also.
I connected and disconnected all the cables I can remember, except phono and speakers.
I did all the configurations I was able to do through the TV menu and the mobile phone app.
I don´t have any problem listening the sound in the TV in pass-through mode (AVR powered off) and it uses the HDMI input also but, in this case it doesn't process the signal before the output (HDMI out monitor 1 in this case). It needs to do it when it is powered on and it needs to process the input signal it receicves (Audissey, room corrections, ...) through an HDMI input before it sents it out to the speakers or the TV (HDMI output).

Yes, it still is in the warraty period. It is 1 1/2 year old but ... to be repaired I need to send it from Lisbon/Portugal to Germany by mail.

I had also a problem with my old (6/7 years) Pioneer SC-35/LX-73, the HDMI processing hardware (HDMI input chip) died and the new board was more than $500 USD. It was replaced by the Marantz. The power amplififier part of the Pioneer still works very well if I put the audio signal in through the analog inputs.

I also would like to have a separated signal processor and an amplifier (now I can use the Marantz or the Pioneer as amplifier :( ) but the signal processors usually are very expensive, more than both together in an AVR.
Regards
Vitor Almeida
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
Ratings
7,253 17 24
#7
Hi!
Thank you all for your answers!
I already did all the resets/restarts I could, from the user´s manual and from the technical manual also.
I connected and disconnected all the cables I can remember, except phono and speakers.
I did all the configurations I was able to do through the TV menu and the mobile phone app.
I don´t have any problem listening the sound in the TV in pass-through mode (AVR powered off) and it uses the HDMI input also but, in this case it doesn't process the signal before the output (HDMI out monitor 1 in this case). It needs to do it when it is powered on and it needs to process the input signal it receicves (Audissey, room corrections, ...) through an HDMI input before it sents it out to the speakers or the TV (HDMI output).

Yes, it still is in the warraty period. It is 1 1/2 year old but ... to be repaired I need to send it from Lisbon/Portugal to Germany by mail.

I had also a problem with my old (6/7 years) Pioneer SC-35/LX-73, the HDMI processing hardware (HDMI input chip) died and the new board was more than $500 USD. It was replaced by the Marantz. The power amplififier part of the Pioneer still works very well if I put the audio signal in through the analog inputs.

I also would like to have a separated signal processor and an amplifier (now I can use the Marantz or the Pioneer as amplifier :( ) but the signal processors usually are very expensive, more than both together in an AVR.
Regards
Vitor Almeida
True, but how often do you want to keep buying receivers?
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Overlord
Ratings
4,610 7 1
#8
I also would like to have a separated signal processor and an amplifier (now I can use the Marantz or the Pioneer as amplifier :( ) but the signal processors usually are very expensive, more than both together in an AVR.
Regards
Vitor Almeida
I agreed with TLSGuy on many things but totally (almost) disagree with him on the processor vs AVR thing. AVPs could be just as complicated, and come with their own jam-packed nature, typically due to more I/Os such as multi channel analog inputs, balanced connections etc. The amp section of an AVR is actually simpler than some people think. It is true that now they tend to pack more than 7 channels of amps in one box, but they are simply a multiple of one same amplifier, though you do have to deal with more heat. Even on that count, an AVP (processor) can run very warm too. In fact, for most people in small to medium sized room sitting 8-11 ft, an AVR's amp section would consume less than 10 watts average, while the processor part by itself would consume much more, and actually generate more heat than the amp section at low to normal listening level such as around 75 dB average from 10 ft watching 7.1 action movies.

Back to your issue at hand, it seems to me you might have the HDMI settings messed up. To keep things simple, try not to engage ARC, just go back to the basic by say, assigning one HDMI at a time, and try it on a source such as a Blu-ray player, or TV box, Apple TV or whatever, that you know is in working order, and go from there.

It may help us to help troubleshoot if you post some screen shots of your HDMI settings and the input assign screens. You should be able to do it because you said the video part is fine, just no sound right?

It wouldn't hurt to repeat the factory reset one or two more time (some users reported that they had to do it several times to fix their issues),follow the instructions exactly as show below:

Turn off the power using
.


Press
while simultaneously pressing GAME and INFO.


Remove your fingers from the two buttons when “Initialized” appears on the display.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
Ratings
7,253 17 24
#9
I agreed with TLSGuy on many things but totally (almost) disagree with him on the processor vs AVR thing. AVPs could be just as complicated, and come with their own jam-packed nature, typically due to more I/Os such as multi channel analog inputs, balanced connections etc. The amp section of an AVR is actually simpler than some people think. It is true that now they tend to pack more than 7 channels of amps in one box, but they are simply a multiple of one same amplifier, though you do have to deal with more heat. Even on that count, an AVP (processor) can run very warm too. In fact, for most people in small to medium sized room sitting 8-11 ft, an AVR's amp section would consume less than 10 watts average, while the processor part by itself would consume much more, and actually generate more heat than the amp section at low to normal listening level such as around 75 dB average from 10 ft watching 7.1 action movies.

Back to your issue at hand, it seems to me you might have the HDMI settings messed up. To keep things simple, try not to engage ARC, just go back to the basic by say, assigning one HDMI at a time, and try it on a source such as a Blu-ray player, or TV box, Apple TV or whatever, that you know is in working order, and go from there.

It may help us to help troubleshoot if you post some screen shots of your HDMI settings and the input assign screens. You should be able to do it because you said the video part is fine, just no sound right?

It wouldn't hurt to repeat the factory reset one or two more time (some users reported that they had to do it several times to fix their issues),follow the instructions exactly as show below:

Turn off the power using
.


Press
while simultaneously pressing GAME and INFO.


Remove your fingers from the two buttons when “Initialized” appears on the display.
We will always disagree in this. But separates I bet are much more reliable then receivers. The newer ones like mine run absolutely cool. The old 8003 used to get a little warm. There is a lot of open space in my pre/pros and they are not crammed in. I think the argument against receivers is getting stronger over time and not less so. Power amps do not belong in the same box and honestly never did.

Sales staff to Peter Walker: - "Can we have a receiver?" Peter Walker: - "NO!" He was right then and he's right today. Its all in the book, the Closest Approach.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Overlord
Ratings
4,610 7 1
#10
We will always disagree in this. But separates I bet are much more reliable then receivers. The newer ones like mine run absolutely cool. The old 8003 used to get a little warm. There is a lot of open space in my pre/pros and they are not crammed in. I think the argument against receivers is getting stronger over time and not less so. Power amps do not belong in the same box and honestly never did.

Sales staff to Peter Walker: - "Can we have a receiver?" Peter Walker: - "NO!" He was right then and he's right today. Its all in the book, the Closest Approach.
I don't think we totally disagree as such, we just absolutely disagree to a certain degree.
 
V

Vitor Almeida

Enthusiast
#12
Hi!

After trying everything I could learn around, the Marantz is going to Germany next week to be repaired (stiil in the warranty)! :rolleyes:
While the Marantz goes and returns (I hope) I will connect the TV Box (cable TV) directly to the TV, the same with the PS4, the media player and the Blu ray player. The TV (LG 65E6V) has enough HDMI inputs!

As I told before I also would like to have a signal processor and an amplifier, different devices, but when I bought the Marantz that solution was above my price range, and still is! More than I want to spend with an AVR! Ok! Ok! I already know that I have two AVRs crippled because of the signal processing hardware but... A separeted signal processor could have the same problem. Who knows?

One thing I look before I bought the Marantz was the NAD solution for their AVRs, the "Modular Design Construction "! If we could change a board easily when it has problems or to upgrade it that would be a very good improvement. At the time I bought the Marantz it had better reviews and a better price, so Marantz it was!

If I need to I buy a new AVR I will think about, with much more attention, in the solution of a signal processor plus a separated amplifier (maybe I use one of the crippled AVRs I already have (Pioneer and Marantz)) as power amplifier because they both have analog inputs to the pre-amplifier for all the output channels/speakers.

The other possibility is to keep an eye in the NAD´s solution and to their quality and price range (the AVRs and the possible future upgrade boards).
It also would be a good idea, and much better, if the signal processing boards and other hardware were interchangeable between different equipments from different brands as we do with the computer boards! Standards needed! Maybe one day!!

Meanwhile my old Sony STR-DB925 is still working in my home office! :)

Regards
V Almeida
 
Last edited:
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Seriously, I have no life.
Ratings
6,626 15 6
#13
True, but how often do you want to keep buying receivers?
Don’t forget about my $7,500 Denon AVP-A1HDCI Pre-Pro and Grassy’s $7500 AVP-A1HDCI Pre-pro that died after about 8 years!

I’ve heard other issues about Marantz Pre-pro as well. Grassy had to return his Marantz AV8802a Pre-Pro also.

So AVR isn’t the only thing needing replacement every few years.

Edit: wanted to add that I had 3 x 120 mm fans atop the AVP-A1HDCI pulling air up for about the last 4 years. I’m not sure if Grassy ever had any fans atop his AVP-A1HD.
 
Last edited:
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Overlord
Ratings
4,180 16 37
#14
Don’t forget about my $7,500 Denon AVP-A1HDCI Pre-Pro and Grassy’s $7500 AVP-A1HDCI Pre-pro that died after about 8 years!

I’ve heard other issues about Marantz Pre-pro as well. Grassy had to return his Marantz AV8802a Pre-Pro also.

So AVR isn’t the only thing needing replacement every few years.
They're all consumer electronics in the general sense and even boutique electronics don't seem to do any better. Adding a cooling system is a good way to extend reliability whether a pre-pro or avr depending on heat from components/location.
 
V

Vitor Almeida

Enthusiast
#15
Yes! Now that you talk about cooling systems I am going to think about the possibility of to put a "fancy" one over the Marantz (when it returns) to see if I can expand its active life for a few more years (actually the Marantz is not inside a cabinet but over it with lots of space so heat shouldn’t be a problem!).

Around hear I know that European Union (EU) was been doing something about “programmed obsolescence”. I hope that they do it faster and for all the consumer equipment, including AVRs, and without lobbies.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Overlord
Ratings
4,610 7 1
#16
Don’t forget about my $7,500 Denon AVP-A1HDCI Pre-Pro and Grassy’s $7500 AVP-A1HDCI Pre-pro that died after about 8 years!

I’ve heard other issues about Marantz Pre-pro as well. Grassy had to return his Marantz AV8802a Pre-Pro also.

So AVR isn’t the only thing needing replacement every few years.
That was the key point I disagreed with TLSG about!! That the processor part is typically the troubleshoot, not the power amp section.. Well designed/built power amps rarely fail, and if you look at the specs carefully, it's also the prepro part that typically produces most of the heat at low to reasonably loud volume in a small to medium sized room. AVRs can live just as long if we help them with external fan(s) instead of relying on the internal ones that are set to kick in at high temperature so people don't complain about noise. I bet manufacturers set the internal fans to activate at temperature points just low enough to help their products survive within, or a little longer than the warrant period, i.e. 3-6 years give or take, depending on their operating environment and conditions such as vent space, load impedance, how hard they are pushed etc.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Overlord
Ratings
4,610 7 1
#17
Yes! Now that you talk about cooling systems I am going to think about the possibility of to put a "fancy" one over the Marantz (when it returns) to see if I can expand its active life for a few more years (actually the Marantz is not inside a cabinet but over it with lots of space so heat shouldn’t be a problem!).

Around hear I know that European Union (EU) was been doing something about “programmed obsolescence”. I hope that they do it faster and for all the consumer equipment, including AVRs, and without lobbies.
Managing the heat could prolong their life even if natural venting is adequate. In your case, it likely did not fail due to heat, and all electronics are prone to fail too. NAD products are not known to be more reliable either, NAD had been nick named before too to mean something funny, I don't remember what it was for sure, but had something to do with reliability (maybe "Not Always Dependable"?. May be that's one reason why they made them modular.:D
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
Ratings
7,253 17 24
#18
Yes! Now that you talk about cooling systems I am going to think about the possibility of to put a "fancy" one over the Marantz (when it returns) to see if I can expand its active life for a few more years (actually the Marantz is not inside a cabinet but over it with lots of space so heat shouldn’t be a problem!).

Around hear I know that European Union (EU) was been doing something about “programmed obsolescence”. I hope that they do it faster and for all the consumer equipment, including AVRs, and without lobbies.
Yes, the IEC are looking at this and about time. Electronic standards have been driven by the EU commissions largely, and not by the US. Because of trade agreements we have to build and market to IEC in the US. Sometimes this is onerous. For instance ever thing here is RoHS compliant to help reduce pollution of discarded electronics. This regulation is European, but everything in the US is RoHS compliant.

Now you are correct, there is talk in Europe about mandating increased reliability. This is not only from a consumer protection standpoint but also a pollution stand point. It is a huge lie that electronics can be usefully recycled. It can't and is a massive cause of environmental problems

Back in the eighties when cars started to be controlled by electronics and the ECMs appeared cars had massive reliability problems. That was dangerous, as the ignition system failing suddenly in traffic was very dangerous, especially on urban interstates. So grading of components started for cars and not only aircraft. The lowest grade was 4 which is consumer grade. The highest is 0 which has to be used under the hood, and 1 can be used inside the car I believe.

Now there is a misconception all over the NET that this just involves temperature range but it is more than that.

I have this screen shot from a Bosch technical pdf.



As you can see it also covers humidity (a big factor),field failure rates, and the time it must stay in the supply chain.

Now you can see consumer grade has a component failure rate of up to 10%. Well when you scale this up to the number of components in a receiver you see the problem. It gets worse as complexity, like all the streaming options and ATMOS, UHD 4K etc. are added.

In the above shot consumer would be grade 4 and industrial grade 3. The automotive spec shown above would be automotive grade 0.

These are the AEC-Q100 grades. As you can see the ambient temp. spec. is the only one quoted, but it is much more than that.

AEC-Q100 has following Automotive Grades;
Grade 0 (or A): -40°C to +150°C ambient operating temperature range
Grade 1 (or Q): -40°C to +125°C ambient operating temperature range
Grade 2 (or T): -40°C to +105°C ambient operating temperature range
Grade 3 (or I): -40°C to +85°C ambient operating temperature range
Grade 4 (or C): -40°C to +70°C ambient operating temperature range
Typically Commercial would align with Grade 3 and Industrial would align with Grade 2 and like you said Grade 0 and 1 align with automotive. More specifically with the automotive grades Grade 0 is usually used under the hood (due to harsher ambient conditions) whereas Grade 1 is used elsewhere.


I personally would be in favor of consumer electronics not be made with grade 4, but 3 at least and may be 2 or 1.

This would increase price considerably, but would make the gear much more reliable. I do think we have a problem now with gear having such a high component count that with the use of consumer grade 4, failure becomes almost inevitable within a relatively short period of time, and this is unacceptable.

I do think regulation on this is now actually over the horizon, in Europe at least, and we will be forced to follow unless trade agreements are torn up. Even then I doubt manufacturers will have different production lines for US and Europe.

If this does occur and I think it will, you can expect very substantial rises in price and an end to entry level receivers.

I think also, because of cost, and therefore the adverse economic impact of failure, that there will be a move to modular design, which would be another move in the right direction. This would likely cause a further rise in the cost of initial acquisition, but also go along way to help solve the problem of obsolescence, so that gear could be upgraded and not totally replaced.

I would certainly support these measures. In my view reliability and longevity are at unacceptably low points.

Lastly out of curiosity and interest we have medical grade, the highest standard of all. If you read this, you will see why medical electronic equipment is so expensive.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Seriously, I have no life.
Ratings
6,626 15 6
#19
In terms of reliability, whether it’s AVR or Pre-Pre, I think it’s about how much crap they horseshoed in the chassis, quality of parts (i.e. HDMI boards and other circuits) and the quality control/testing.

Well, just don’t spend too much money on any of these components to be safe.

If the Marantz still doesn’t work after repair, then next time get a Yamaha or Sony ES AVR.
 
V

Vitor Almeida

Enthusiast
#20
Hi!

Good news!

I already had done everything you told me, everything I read in the user and technical manuals, in the forums, and ... still no audio when the input source is one of the HDMI inputs!

Today I decided to do a last test with the Marantz 7011 before I pack it to send it to repair. So, very early in the morning, after another restart (one more) as you and the manuals say, no audio from HDMI sources yet! I decided to go through all the AVR menu and turn off everything in the menu that I didn't need and ... at last, something I hadn’t tried before to repair it, to reconfigure the Audissey again (using the included microphone) and ... it started to send audio to the speakers from the HDMI inputs as source, again!!!

After that I did a lot of tests, tried all the HDMI inputs and tried the ARC from the TV (LG65E6V) and, as much as I can say, its working with all of them including the TV audio by ARC (I tested it with Netflix playing in the TV)!

Conclusion:

Problem: For some reason that I don’t know, the AVR stopped sending audio to the speakers when the input source was any one of the HDMI inputs, including ARC from the TV. The last different thing that I remember related with the Marantz 7011 was to notice, at night around two weeks ago, that it was doing a software update. At the time I was using the AVR only in the mode pass-through (powered off) so I didn’t notice nothing different at the time. Only a few days after I noticed that there was no audio from the speakers when the selected source was one of the HDMI inputs. The video image was good!

Solution: The usual restarts as the manual says, redo the installation of the AVR, including the Audissey part of it (it only worked after the new Audissey reinstallation)! The strange thing is that, even with the factory restarts and all, the AVR didn´t start to let the audio go from an HDMI input to an HDMI output or the speakers, only after I mess with the Audissey configuration again!

Thank you for your support!

Vitor Almeida
 

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