fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
But his cubes will be bi-amped :p.
I thought that was mandatory when hooking up Bose cubes. He should get some Verastar flat foil wires as well. That's sure to get the best out of them.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I think it would be kinda funny to see him unload all of his gear at rock bottom prices and go with Bose speaker cubes :p
Do a budget friendly version of ADTG? :D

I tried unloading this gear for rock bottom already. I asked for $750 for the Aragon 2007 and then saw one sell on eBay for close to $900 I believe. The eBay one had bent fins from being bounced! I wish I had some extra money so I could taunt you about gear at rock bottom prices. Don't think I'm not due for a TT and an Oppo upgrade but your prices and my finances aren't speaking to each other ATM.

It's funny how quickly new gear depreciates to the 50% of original cost and once there it's only a matter of time before you start giving it away because the sh!t is so out of hand that you are storing your speakers on top of your speakers!

I just went to switch back and forth from Memory 1 to Memory 2 and realized that Memory 1 isn't downmixing the DTS multi channel signal so I don't get vocals etc. However YPAO'ed Memory 2 works fine. The rec'r has out-smarted me. I'm going to coast on this level of functionality for a spell.

Well, I did get in there to fix Memory 1 so the rec'r has the right info and I matched the channel gains assigned by YPAO ... and the distances ... but not the PEQ! I'm a purist! Floyd on vinyl is next and I fully expect it to be better than f^%&ing ever. I mean, how could it not be? I'm gonna make some tea for this and maybe that other thing that goes with Floyd. 'Murika

EDIT: Oh yeah, the bi amped cubes! Youve seen the ones with the one cube on top of the other cube but cockeyed? I could biamp the sh!t outa those.
 
STRONGBADF1

STRONGBADF1

Audioholic Spartan
Happy to see you have the date set properly...

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Well it only took a few years to unravel this mess.



There's a really good DIY guy up here named Mikez. I watched him measure another DIY'er's speaker and diagnose a polarity issue. I think it was a 2 way speaker. I wanted my speakers measured just to insure nothing like that was going on here. I tried reversing the tweeter and that was decidedly a downgrade and reversing the sub didn't sound right either. Guess what. The mid and tweet needed to be reversed from the MBOWI bass cab.

I finally got it right and FFS it's about time. The real reason I was running the sweep was to try to identify the better hp xo as mine are slightly different from each other. Turns out that any difference the xo's presented pales in comparison to the difference proper polarity brings to the table.

So yeah, this REW thing has really panned out. Without it I never would have sorted this polarity puzzle and I was able to see that the upper end response of L&R are very similar when measured from 1' away ... and it only took a decade.

Edit:
The important thing is that your tweeters are bi-amped.
That is 90% of your sound. :D
 
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everettT

everettT

Audioholic Ninja
Well it only took a few years to unravel this mess.



There's a really good DIY guy up here named Mikez. I watched him measure another DIY'er's speaker and diagnose a polarity issue. I think it was a 2 way speaker. I wanted my speakers measured just to insure nothing like that was going on here. I tried reversing the tweeter and that was decidedly a downgrade and reversing the sub didn't sound right either. Guess what. The mid and tweet needed to be reversed from the MBOWI bass cab.

:D





its the opposite of this?
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord





its the opposite of this?
Wow, that's the first time I'm seeing a schematic for my r tweeter. I assume my mid and woofer xo's are as you posted. I have not mapped out those xo's in my speakers so I can't be sure about the components but now that I'm able to measure the response of the polarity variations I am confident that it is correct now.

Thanks for posting those schematics. I will eventually verify that I do have that very version.

Would you be able to link me to the source of that version of the MBOWI 3-way crossovers?
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Ninja
Wow, that's the first time I'm seeing a schematic for my r tweeter. I assume my mid and woofer xo's are as you posted. I have not mapped out those xo's in my speakers so I can't be sure about the components but now that I'm able to measure the response of the polarity variations I am confident that it is correct now.

Thanks for posting those schematics. I will eventually verify that I do have that very version.

Would you be able to link me to the source of that version of the MBOWI 3-way crossovers?
im not sure what the R tweeter is but this from Dennis http://murphyblaster.com/content.php?f=MBOW1_3-WAY_previous.html
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
im not sure what the R tweeter is but this from Dennis http://murphyblaster.com/content.php?f=MBOW1_3-WAY_previous.html
Right tweeter. It looks a little different than the Left tweeter crossover. Not by much but they are different.

Anyway the magic with your link is that it's the old original xo as opposed to what appears on Dennis' page now as the 'revised mbowI 3-way'. There appear to be 3 possible resistors for that tweeter high pass, either a 10, 20 or 30 Ohm resistor can live there. Mine happens to be 20 Ohm variety that you linked here.

Greatly appreciated and welcome to the forum.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
So x-over was wired wrong?
I missed your post earlier.

I was suppose to reverse the polarity of the mid from that of the bass driver. At some point that got turned around. I recently switched amps and bi-amped stuff so I might have switched something there. But the mid's polarity and the tweeter's polarity were both wrong with reference to the bass driver so they were in correct phase with respect to each other. So once you got away from the lower xo point of about 300Hz it all worked great. Until reversing the mid filled that hole and left a bigger one at the higher xo point. Reversing the tweeter lined that back up.

Before the bi-ampswapafication I relocated the the woofer and mid xo boards from the speaker base to the inside of the bass cabinets so anything could have happened there too. Plus I swapped out the tweeters ... and some components on the tweeter boards. It's not easy being a bored person's speaker.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Ninja
That design has a boat load of variants with all the driver combos. How did you mount the crossovers in the bass cabinet?
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
That design has a boat load of variants with all the driver combos. How did you mount the crossovers in the bass cabinet?
I removed the xo's from the bases and threw in a couple of connectors to separate the boards. So in went the mid and low xo's through the driver holes. I anchored them as out of the way as possible to allow room for the stuffing that was already in there.



In regards to the tweeter high pass it's interesting that Dennis explained which resistor values could be adjusted for various desired effects. Like my speakers are nearfield so maybe toning the tweeter down a hair might be alright but I can't hear that high so who cares, right?
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Active crossover time :D
... and it's really only time for me to really make sure I have what I think I have. I thought I was doing good. I mean I successfully ran YPAO not too long ago but now it says W1 Out of Phase. The manual says that might not mean anything but now I am going to yank my drivers and see exactly what I do have. Oh well. I wanted my rack pulled for some other stuff anyway. Good times. Pic's to follow.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
I missed your post earlier.

I was suppose to reverse the polarity of the mid from that of the bass driver. At some point that got turned around. I recently switched amps and bi-amped stuff so I might have switched something there. But the mid's polarity and the tweeter's polarity were both wrong with reference to the bass driver so they were in correct phase with respect to each other. So once you got away from the lower xo point of about 300Hz it all worked great. Until reversing the mid filled that hole and left a bigger one at the higher xo point. Reversing the tweeter lined that back up.

Before the bi-ampswapafication I relocated the the woofer and mid xo boards from the speaker base to the inside of the bass cabinets so anything could have happened there too. Plus I swapped out the tweeters ... and some components on the tweeter boards. It's not easy being a bored person's speaker.
It happens. When I redid the ones in the Carnegies the solder points for the input/output wires cracked and I had to remove and resolder each of them on both boards. At first I thought I had put something in backwards too, but I got no sound at all. Kept checking the connections and schematic until I noticed the the solder broken off.
 
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