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[Alex2507]

For 120mm fans only, I think this is an interesting one. It comes with an optional Low Noise Adapter which brings the noise down to 12db at 900 RPM's with ~42 CFM which is pretty good for a 120mm fan producing only 12db. Without the LNA it does 1300 RPM's at 19 db's with ~54+ CFM, which is still as good as most 120mm fans. This would also keep you from having to buy a dimmer switch or the controller I linked to.

Noctua 120mm Premium PWM Fan # NF-P12 PWM

That looks good. That LNA isn't an option. It's included and very cool (no pun intended). The only thing I can't quite figure out is if it has a cord to plug into 120v. I guess I should probably just get 2. I do have a whopping 2-1/4" space above the amp which is on the side away from the side vent so I could mount it on the inside of the cabinet blowing up and out.

That way if passive cooling ain't gettin' it ... the solution is in place for a mere 50 bucks. I gotsta turn this computer off. Otherwise I spend way too much time peaking to see if there's anything interesting going on and drooling over other peoples gear.

Edit: I see that it's 12 volt and I need a power supply. That's not how I wanted to do this but to get the noise down, so be it. Due to noise I guess it's just gonna be 1 fan and maybe this?

 

[Send Margaritas]

I still think you shouldn't go for a fan until you are certain your cabinet cannot passively vent enough air to deal with heat build up. ...

I'm in this camp too. (I also liked that interesting router work that the fan covered, and was wondering how it was done. It looked nice.) If you have to go with fans, DC fans will be quieter.

 

[Alex2507]

I'm in this camp too. (I also liked that interesting router work that the fan covered, and was wondering how it was done. It looked nice.) If you have to go with fans, DC fans will be quieter.

There's a certain something about people who never learn and won't listen ...

... but I cut that design in with a coping saw.

The design sort of uses that little circle in the middle to support the two longest grates.

I might have made that up or copied it, not sure.

 

[fuzz092888]

That looks good. That LNA isn't an option. It's included and very cool (no pun intended). The only thing I can't quite figure out is if it has a cord to plug into 120v. I guess I should probably just get 2. I do have a whopping 2-1/4" space above the amp which is on the side away from the side vent so I could mount it on the inside of the cabinet blowing up and out.

That way if passive cooling ain't gettin' it ... the solution is in place for a mere 50 bucks. I gotsta turn this computer off. Otherwise I spend way too much time peaking to see if there's anything interesting going on and drooling over other peoples gear.

Edit: I see that it's 12 volt and I need a power supply. That's not how I wanted to do this but to get the noise down, so be it. Due to noise I guess it's just gonna be 1 fan and maybe this?

That would work fine. The only problem is that the fan doesn't come with a 4 pin molex adapter, but that's not a problem since I have a bunch of those lying around. I can mail one to you and you'd be all set with those two items.

I just need your address

 

[Send Margaritas]

There's a certain something about people who never learn and won't listen ...

... but I cut that design in with a coping saw.

...

'twas nicely done!

 

[Rickster71]

I just need your address

I guess we all know where this is going...

 

[Alex2507]

That would work fine. The only problem is that the fan doesn't come with a 4 pin molex adapter, but that's not a problem since I have a bunch of those lying around. I can mail one to you and you'd be all set with those two items.

The PS has a 4 pin molex and the fan has 4 pin PWM connector. Not the same thing I take it?
You can have the address all you want and I'll even dare you to come out.
Rick came out ... once (pun intended).

Wouldn't they have a PS that just works with that fan? Maybe even one with an in-line variable voltage controller? I thought I finally had this fingered out. I'd like to just get everything I need in one box from them and have it all work. I hate to trouble you further with this but can you help me meet that objective?

I guess we all know where this is going...

A few drinks, a roll of duct tape ... yeah, we've all been there.

 

[fuzz092888]

If you want everything in one box, I would do this

Coolerguys "Cabcool 1201" Single 120mm Base Kit (w/ option choice)

I think I already linked to this before, but this is really one of the few "all in one box" packages that is of a somewhat reasonable cost. For the fan, acrylic bracket, and manual controller it's like $44.

Plus you can always swap out the fan for a different one down the road, so with that in mind you may even want to spend a little bit more for one of the thermal controllers, but then again I guess it wouldn't matter if you were plugging it into the switched outlet. OTOH with the thermal controller it would stay off until it got too hot which would reduce noise more....

So, from what I could find, this is the best and cheapest all in one deal. Everything else I've found that includes everything is like $60-100+.

EDIT: Also the fan is 47CFM and 20db at 1200 RPM so even at full blast its pretty quiet. The preset controller is on at 86 off at 81 and adds $8 to the total cost. The programmable controller adds $28 to the total cost.

 

[Alex2507]

I kind of want the fan boasting the LNA.

Then this PS?

And this controller?

Does that look like it will work? Or do I need something else? It's not really about it being 'one box' but I figure it shouldn't be a problem getting a working solution from one source without having you make a trip to the Post Office.

I'm really looking forward to being done with this.

At least I'm all done with wiring inside the box.

Edit: I'm not after a thermostatically controlled unit. I just want it to go on with the system and be reasonably quiet. The 12db is a way better selling feature that on/off @ 20db.

 

[Adam]

I'll bet you anything that L.N.A. just runs it off of 5V instead of 12V. I have several fans that do just that, and those are the ones that I mentioned earlier. I also have a variable fan controller that adjusts the voltage with a dial.

63.4 m³/h is equivalent to 37.3 cfm. That's not a whole lot. As others have said, the most common approach to drop volume in a given fan size is to decrease RPM, and hence airflow. This fan lists about double the airflow for the same noise level.

 

[Alex2507]

I'll bet you anything that L.N.A. just runs it off of 5V instead of 12V. I have several fans that do just that, and those are the ones that I mentioned earlier. I also have a variable fan controller that adjusts the voltage with a dial.

63.4 m³/h is equivalent to 37.3 cfm. That's not a whole lot. As others have said, the most common approach to drop volume in a given fan size is to decrease RPM, and hence airflow. This fan lists about double the airflow for the same noise level.

That sounds great but I'm back to asking what all I need to make that thing work here. Which PS? Which controller?

 

[fuzz092888]

Then this PS?

Then this or this.

Ok so for the above. Skip the controller, get the PS and pick one of the two linked fans. With the above fans they can connect directly to the PS and you have a choice of LNA or ULNA or neither and still quiet.

 

[hizzaah]

Updates?

Any particular reason you didn't look at USB powered fans? Thermaltake has some that have a adjustable RPM. There's 80mm and 120mm (bought 2 of each a while back just for the heck of it) and I keep them on their lowest speed sitting on top of each to make sure my Onkyo/Xbox stay ice cold.

120mm
80mm
Didnt check to see how their dB @ cfm compared to those posted, but they've got adjustable speed built in so I'm sure you could find a happy medium.

 

[Alex2507]

Updates?

Alex, if you finished the whole job before showing any of the photos, you'd be a genius instead of a lazy tease.

I guess I'm not going to make genius. I tried though.

Yeah ... I can't make any sense of it either. Now that the duct to the diffuser has been lowered/extended to the bottom of that soffit I can set the light. Then the other side of the room gets a matching soffit and light but there's no diffuser there and I'm matching this side so it will be easier.

I'm pretty beat right now but there's some pic's.

 

[Bryceo]

Fixed the hole in the wall yet ?

 

[Alex2507]

Fixed the hole in the wall yet ?

Nope.

I need to come out of that wall with 120 volts from the overhead lighting circuit to feed a light at that I'm going to install at the end of that soffit. Getting the 120 volts from the overhead lighting circuit into the wall was a big deal. Extending that duct to receive a diffuser was a big deal in that it determined the width of the soffit. Running 120 volts across the front wall and down the matching soffit on the other side of the room is not such a big deal but needs to happen before I can insulate and close. Then we move onto tape and paint ... and then the baseboards. Never mind the ugly condition caused by leveling that soffit line at the openings.

I'll let you know when that hole is fixed. I promise.

 

[STRONGBADF1]

I still say Rick and I would have had the whole thing done and ready for mud in about 45 minutes.

 

[Swerd]

I guess I'm not going to make genius. I tried though… I'm pretty beat right now but there's some pic's.

OK, installing soffits, lowering ventilation ducts, adding 120 v AC lines, etc., all in the effort to get your audio stuff off a hope chest gets you somewhere between genius and lazy tease, leaning heavily toward obsessed genius .

And I thought I was clever when I ran the wires for my rear channel speakers under the floor (unfinished basement) to the rear walls where I put in wall plates. One of those worked well, the other, not so much, because I ran into firebreak while snaking the wire, and I didn't want to remove sheetrock to get it right.

I guess you won't be using any of these for your speaker wires:

 

[Bryceo]

Finished it yet

 

[Alex2507]

Passive ventilation aggressively pursued.