Don't connect AMP to UPS or Power Conditioner --->>> ??

[MDS]

Plugging a light into every outlet will just tell you that the outlet is live. It won't tell if it is part of the same circuit as the others in the same room.

The room I use as my office has 6 outlets. 5 of them are on the same circuit and are killed by one breaker. The other one turns off with the next breaker that also controls the dining room and hall outlets. Same with my living room - one breaker turns off all outlets except one which is at the edge of the living room where it borders the kitchen.

An electrician explained to me that they start with the runs furthest from the breaker panel and they use all the available connections before moving on to the next breaker so that is why all the outlets in the room aren't always on the same breaker.

 

[Adam]

Plugging a light into every outlet will just tell you that the outlet is live. It won't tell if it is part of the same circuit as the others in the same room.

MDS, I meant use a light instead of an outlet tester, but otherwise follow your procedure. So, still switch off the circuit breakers one at a time.

 

[nasd90]

I haven't had a problem thus far with the Cinenova, it cranks.
The circuit hasn't blown and I've had it up fairly loud.

I gotta say, the amp is loud but I really can't tell until I crank it up... The Marantz SR8001 holds its own for a good time.

In any case, I'm minus the manual for the Cinenova Grande, long story...

If anyone has a manual (PDF) or could tell me exactly what:

---Range 20 Hz to 5 kHz (one/ channel)---

this means ? and how I should set it with my system ...

There's a dial and I can't figure it out.

THANKS FELLA'S.

Nick

 

[Adam]

nasd90,

Try:

http://www.earthquakesound.com/IMAGEJP/HOME/PDF/cinenova16manual.pdf

It was for the Cinevo Grande 16. Hope that helps.

 

[PENG]

A 30 amp circuit? Man, that's some power draw, isn't it. 20 amp decicated circuits are specified for microwaves, refrigorators, and A.C. units.! Electric stoves and dryers are 50 amps. Man, 30 amps to run his amplifier seems
drastic?!
Since we are on the subject, I may have read somewhere that not all pre amps and pre pros can handle high current, high watt amplifiers. Like big watt krells and what not. Is this true?! Does the OP have to worry about his pre handling this amp?!

I agree 30A seems drastic but you only need it if you use the amp to its limit. I suspect most people don't!
Think about it, this thing is rated for 5X300W into 8ohms 5X600W=3 kW into 4 ohms. That's equivalent to the power required by a 3 ton air conditioning unit. When you factor in the fact that class AB amplifiers do not do much better than 60%, to produce 3000W output that amp is going to draw 5000W from the outlet. Like a big base board heater! Again, that is an extreme case, in reality you are not going to draw 300W (not even in terms of peak demand) simultaneously from all 5 channels?

 

[nasd90]

Adam,

Good find my friend.. I checked the 3, 5, & 7 and couldnt find it, I left out the 16 because it was physically a different amp. I'm checking it now.

thanks again, regardless!

Nick

 

[Adam]

nasd90, I just read the description on the 7-channel amp (http://www.earthquakesound.com/cng_7.htm), and it had this to say:

"Each block features a built-in low pass/high pass variable filter; the fully buffered filter has a range of 20 Hz to 5 kHz. A 3-way switch controls the operation of the filter; with a simple flick of the switch, each amp can run in full range, low pass, or high pass mode."

So, here's my take on it. If you want to run full-range, set the switch to that. If you want a channel to only play frequencies up to a certain cut-off, set the dial to the cut-off frequency and select low pass. If you want a channel to only play frequencies above a certain cut-off, set the dial to the cut-off frequency and select high pass.

 

[nasd90]

There's a 3 way switch for high-pass/low-pass/bypass AND there's a dial for

Range 20 Hz to 5 kHz (one/ channel)

This is where I am having difficulty on setting it exactly where it should be.

No worries, I'm going to look through the pdf in a bit and go see what I can 'adjust'... I've already got it set to : "bypass" because I want full range... I'm just wondering exactly where I should set the dial for the 20hz to 5khz...

Thanks man !!


Nick

 

[Adam]

There's a 3 way switch for high-pass/low-pass/bypass AND there's a dial for

Range 20 Hz to 5 kHz (one/ channel)

I'm just wondering exactly where I should set the dial for the 20hz to 5khz...

Nick, sounds just like the description on the website. Don't worry about the dial when set to bypass. If you have the 3-way switch set to bypass, then the position of the dial (20 Hz to 5 kHz) should be irrelevant. The setting of the dial only matters if you have it set to high-pass or low-pass.

 

[nasd90]

Ahhh... I see, I misunderstood. Thank you, I honestly was at a standstill.

Judging by my setup, should I have all the individual amps going to 'bypass' ?

I'm amazed how well the sound is... I'm actually starting to like SACD more & more regardless of the genre. DSOTM 5.1 was incredible, and I've ordered a couple more...

Thanks again,

Nick

 

[Jaycan]

I have the same Grande 5 amp driving my center and sorround speakers, and a Levinson No 336 driving the fronts. Both amps are plugged into separate dedicated 20 amp circuits. Both are extremely powerful and heavy-Grande approx 125lbs, ML 150lbs. Both amps are rated 300w RMS into 8 ohms, and double the output with each halving of the load, down to 2 ohms, with no audible distortion. built like tanks. Never a hiccup. I play them very loud. The grande is a very under rated amp, in my opinion, is probably one of the best bang for the buck anywhere. This baby you will enjoy!

 

[cruiseoveride]

thanks MDS, I didnt think of the simple power=VxI formula

Is there a gadget i can plug in between a device and the wall socket that will tell me actually how much power it is using?

 

[WmAx]

thanks MDS, I didnt think of the simple power=VxI formula

Is there a gadget i can plug in between a device and the wall socket that will tell me actually how much power it is using?

Yes, a Kill-A-Watt meter would do the job. But it displays average slow time weighted values. Quick transients would not be displayed. You could use test signal that is continuous for a couple of seconds and get a sufficient reading. But music would not work very well. But a very high amplitude test signal risks damaging speaker drivers.

The Kill-A-Watt meter displays Volts, Amps and Power. It factors in Power Factor accurately, as verified by 3rd party analysis/comparison against accurate lab equipment.

Note: The Kill-A-Watt is rated up to 1875VA. Because of your unusually demanding amplifier, it is possible you could exceed the range that this device can measure, if at or near full output power.

-Chris

 

[deftech]

I just bought a mcintosh mc 252. A mac rep said to go direct to the outlet. I have a belkin conditioner with a high current outlet. It is working fine thru it.
I would have to use an extension cord to go direct.