DIY subwoofer question...yes another one...

[rspacher]

I am open to which ever design is better...and better sounding...
I keep learning more and more about this stuff...
I found the thread you posted for your build...
Would a crown XLS1000 have enough power...?
Also....would i get the single voice coil..1260w or the dual 1262w....since from what i saw they need to be wired together to end up at 2ohm...

 

[jinjuku]

I am open to which ever design is better...and better sounding...
I keep learning more and more about this stuff...
I found the thread you posted for your build...
Would a crown XLS1000 have enough power...?
Also....would i get the single voice coil..1260w or the dual 1262w....since from what i saw they need to be wired together to end up at 2ohm...

If doing two sub enclosures get the XLS2000 if you can. Get the 1260w and wire them in parallel (2 Ohm per cabinet). Let me know if you need a diagram or walk through.

 

[rspacher]

Thanks...XLS200 it is....saw the wiring diagram you have on your opposed write up...
Still kinda surprised that this surpassed the ported Kapa in performance...but that's why i am asking you guys...you have built them and compared...
just curious ...
could i change the dimensions to be more rectangular than square...as long as the internal volume remains the same...
lets say 20 high x 18 wide x 30 long...mount the drivers opposed on the 20 x 30 panels...with proper bracing of course...
I envision having this on some kind of leg/feet...do double duty as an end table...
Just wanting to make sure this would not mess up the design...

 

[jinjuku]

Thanks...XLS200 it is....saw the wiring diagram you have on your opposed write up...
Still kinda surprised that this surpassed the ported Kapa in performance...but that's why i am asking you guys...you have built them and compared...
just curious ...
could i change the dimensions to be more rectangular than square...as long as the internal volume remains the same...
lets say 20 high x 18 wide x 30 long...mount the drivers opposed on the 20 x 30 panels...with proper bracing of course...
I envision having this on some kind of leg/feet...do double duty as an end table...
Just wanting to make sure this would not mess up the design...

Just maintain the same internal volume.

The performance is 'different'. You trade a bit of bottom end on the Dual Opposed but it kills the Ported Kappa 30-80Hz. Just a lot more pressurization.

I did a setup with two ported Kappa's and a Crown XLS2000. On a movie like Tron Legacy in the bike arena you could feel the couches literally kick when the bikes landed.

No so much with the Dual Opposed.

BUT on a movie like Master and Commander the cannons going off in the ship broadsides, the Dual Opposed just dominated. There is more content in the 30-80 than the 15-29 range typically.

If you could it would be to do both and run 4 subs and active management between the ported and sealed/dual opposed. All budget dependent.

 

[rspacher]

If i built 4 subs...i think my wife would have me examined for being insane...but she already knows that...
She is aware of what i am doing...just shakes her head...but she is getting another piece of furniture from the workshop...trade off...i get subs she gets furniture...works for me...
As i have read more...the combo of ported and sealed seems to be the supreme combo...
but i will just build the dual opposed...more music/movies is above the 30 hz level...
Would it work to build a 1 kappa ported and 1 dual opposed and drive them off of a Crown XLS amp...tune each sub accordingly...have the best of both worlds...?

 

[jinjuku]

If i built 4 subs...i think my wife would have me examined for being insane...but she already knows that...
She is aware of what i am doing...just shakes her head...but she is getting another piece of furniture from the workshop...trade off...i get subs she gets furniture...works for me...
As i have read more...the combo of ported and sealed seems to be the supreme combo...
but i will just build the dual opposed...more music/movies is above the 30 hz level...
Would it work to build a 1 kappa ported and 1 dual opposed and drive them off of a Crown XLS amp...tune each sub accordingly...have the best of both worlds...?

You could and just use the built in X-Over on the Crown.

 

[rspacher]

The start of the project...
picking up a Crown XlS1500...found one on craigslist for $200...still under waranty...basically new...
Now a simple question , i have found several builds for this setup...dual opposed 1260w ...some use 22 x 22 x 22... for the cabinet size ...others use 19 x 19 x 19...
Does it make much difference...?
I am coming from a Jamo E8sub.5...10" sealed 15 x 15 x 15...and i think it sounds good...

 

[jinjuku]

Your external dimensions with 3/4" or 18MM ply should be 19" per side with just some baffle to baffle 3/4" by 3 inch span bracing.

 

[rspacher]

thank you...

 

[rspacher]

Was not able to get my hands on a XLS2000...but got a XLS1500...hopefully that will be enough power...
Doing the Dual opposed 1260w drivers..will end up 2ohm...the crown delivers 775W at that level...?

 

[jinjuku]

You'll be fine with the 1500

 

[rspacher]

That's great...
Although my wife may not like it...
Now i need to learn how to set up the amp for the filters...high pass, low pass...etc...
But first things first...time to start getting the other materials...baltic birch plywood and the 1260w drivers...

 

[jinjuku]

The Infinity's are $62 on Amazon Prime and Best Buy will price match if you want to get them locally.

 

[rspacher]

ok...
Been a few weeks since i asked about all of this stuff....
The drivers have been ordered and are supposed to be here today...
Just a reminder i am building the Dual opposed sealed...
Question...I not a fan of MDF and would like to avoid it ...can normal birch/cherry veneer plywood be used...or do I need to upgrade to 13 ply Baltic birch...
Also..is normal woodworking glue..Titebond good enough...i keep reading about some kind of construction adhesive being use called PL...
I intend to use double baffle for flush mounting...and all joints will be dadoed...
Pretty much will duplicate the build you did for the sealed unit...the one where your cat was sitting on the sub...

 

[jinjuku]

Never had a problem with standard big box store ply. All my personal builds are Dado and Tightbond original. PL is a pain to work with IMO. It's not needed, again IMO.

 

[rspacher]

Thanks...
That answers a lot of questions for now at least...
The drivers were delivered a couple of hours ago...
nothing like a little motivation to move things along...

 

[lsiberian]

Titebond should do the job just fine.

 

[ARES24]

I use PL for building subfloors (house framing). It doesn't belong in a speaker project. Any wood glue will suffice (provided it isn't super old or been frozen)

 

[fuzz092888]

I use PL for building subfloors (house framing). It doesn't belong in a speaker project. Any wood glue will suffice (provided it isn't super old or been frozen)

I disagree. PL is fine for speaker projects. I've used both wood glue and PL and both work equally well, even though they differ in many ways. Plus there is the water soluble version of PL.

 

[jinjuku]

I've seen a lot of people use PL because it has expansion properties. That is it enables someone to be sloppy on their joinery.

Bottom line is accurate cuts and dado's simply need Tightbond original or some other same type wood glue.