Well, I definitely like the modified version. But the trouble with passive crossovers is that they have big klunky parts. There's no way to fit a proper crossover in there if you use poly caps, and the cost would get out of hand. I flunked all of the spatial relations tests they threw at me when I was in Junior High, but I think I've found a way to fit everything on a board that I can just wedge between the ribs inside the Dayton Cabinet. What I haven't decided is whether it's worth the bother given the microscopic markup I could charge. Projects like this really need factories, not dining rooms.
Dennis would this still be true even if you used lesser priced and more compact film caps such as Mylar film of the “orange dip” style with lower voltage ratings. These speakers don’t need the higher voltage rated caps that are most available through places like PE or Madisound. A wrapped Mylar at 100v should be sufficient and sound decent.
When I explored the possibility of a crossover project for this I was looking around a lot of surplus parts stores for the caps specifically to find more compact parts.
Another thought is to split the crossover into two separate boards. The low pass board could remain where it is but the high pass could be separated to another board in the shelf.
I also thought about mounting the crossover externally into a small plastic project box. I wasn’t planning to sell mine, but maybe people wouldn’t mind. The cost would go up. I don’t know how you feel but i think these speakers are worth about $100 after the crossover is upgraded sufficiently. After that point I think other options offer better sound or less compromises for about the same money.
I’m also curious what you settled on for crossover slopes. Especially for the tweeter high pass. I couldn’t seem to make it work right without at least a 3rd order B-W, but really preferred a 4th order L-R. It seemed like too many parts for this speaker. I think my final crossover had 11 elements.
