Building a house around a home theatre system

ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>Hi all;

At the request and common sense of a few readers on this site, I am looking to continue THIS topic from a discussion that started out talking about power conditioning and dedicated home theatre rooms sort of took over the show.

I think this is a very interesting topic that I am sure alot of users will have input on, so please don't hesitate to throw out any suggestions no matter how big or small or costly they might be.

So far some of the suggestions have talked about having a dedicated 20 amp breaker / circuit specifically for the home theatre, prewiring coax for cable and satellite, types of quality cabling and more.

Looking forward to your suggestions!</font>
 
G

Guest

Guest
<font color='#000000'>I would think about the walls. I have heard that plaster is far better acoustically than dry wall. At least I would use two layers of dry wall. Keep the ceilings low to keep the sound warm. Cathedral ceilings are a disaster. Also I have heard that synthetic carpet may create minor problems with cable conduction if they sit on the carpet. Maybe this is more cable voodoo but why not go with wood or wool carpet?</font>
 
M

Martin_S

Enthusiast
<font color='#000000'>Man. There's a lots to discuss here. I can help more with infrastructure things, namely wiring, since I just worked with all of that in my own home.

We've somewhat covered AC power elsewhere, at that lead to questions about coax and network cabling. You'll want to take a look at a &quot;structured wiring&quot; scheme. It involves runs of various types of cable from each room to a &quot;head end&quot;, usually somewhere in the basement. At the head end, those feeder cables meet up with various sources: telephone service, satellite/CATV/antenna feeds, internet service. A great place to learn more is here.

This in and of itself isn't home theater stuff, but it's not hard to come up with a HT that utilizes all of it.</font>
 
E

EdR

Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>Hi,

One question is what do you mean by dedicated home theater? &nbsp;My dedicated home theater is in an 11 x17 foot loft. It's optimized for just the two of us, and I'd say, for us is as good as any. &nbsp;However, it simply doesn't work well for guests. &nbsp;On the other hand, I've seen in magazines, dedicated theaters with theater seating for 12, projection screens with curtains, and the full Palace treatment.

Advice and costs would vary greatly depending on what you've got in mind. &nbsp;For example, the Yamaha RX-V2400 receiver is ideal for my small space. &nbsp;I've got the full 7.1 implementation, and haven't heard better sound at any demo room I've been to. &nbsp; However, I doubt that this would be good advice for a significantly larger room.</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>Hi Dan;

Thanks for stopping by.

Why would one want to slap two layers of drywall up? better sound cancelling?

As for the cables laying on the carpet, I have heard that this could cause issues, and have seen products that you wipe on your cables to help them not become statically charged, but I am not too sure (or confident) of their ability or truth.

Perhaps a more knowledgable individual on this topic could discuss this further.

However, I will be prewiring with 12 guage monster cable, as not to having messy cables running all ove rhte floor and to give it a clean, finished look...

regards,

Rob</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>Hi Martin,

Thanks for the link, even though it isn't specifically meant for home theatre, you are correct, alot of things could be applied to that.

Even further than that, those are topics that could be applied to other things that I wish to learn about too, so I definately spend some time with that page, thanks again.

Rob</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>Hi EdR

What I mean by dedicated home theatre room is that the room will specifically designed for a home theatre / music system, therefore basically being built around the audio system.

I have read / learned that an ideal room should be width times 1.5 for length. So my room so far is shaping up to be 18 x 27 feet.

As I said, if you got anything to add in, please don't hesitate to mention it.

regards,

Rob</font>
 
G

Guest

Guest
<font color='#000000'>Drywall is highly flexible and therefore very reflective which makes for a rather &quot;bright: sounding room with lots of echo. A second layer will create dampening. I've heard claim that plaster rooms sound wonderful but have no first hand experience. Still I might try it if there were no walls in place currently and the budget allowed it. &nbsp;I too am skeptical about the carpet stuff but if I were choosing carpet I would avoid synthetic. I don't think I would rip up perfectly good synthetic carpet just for this though. Moot point for me the wife is allergic to the synthetics.It's always easier to upgrade the electronics later than the walls and rugs.Happy building!</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>hmmm, I will have to look into that...

what is wrong with the synthetic carpets versus other types?</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>does any one have any advice or comments on wiring for future formats and content?</font>
 
G

Guest

Guest
<font color='#000000'>I have nothing against synthetics except they make my wife miserable and wool doesn't(maybe the glue?)and the possible wire issue. I just meant that if I had only subflooring that is what I would choose.

As for wiring- I'm not a crazy expensive wire guy. You might use the stuff meant for running through walls if that is your plan. It has no sonic advantage but at least where I live it is the fire code. Seems ridiculous to me though. Just don't decide to rearrange the room a year from now.</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>so they enforce putting a certain of plain ole speaker wire in the walls??

dang, I had hoped that wasn't the case...</font>
 
G

Guest

Guest
<font color='#000000'>Depends on local code I guess, and if you have inspectors come to see the work. I don't think there is a difference in cost unless you are going high end on the cable. Parts Express sells the stuff by 50 and 100 foot rolls for less than 25 cents a foot.</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>is the desginated in wall wiring any good though?</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>hey what would be an ideal height for the ceilings in the dedicated home theatre room?

Is 8 feet ok?

I have heard that the taller they are, the worse it is ?</font>
 
E

EdR

Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>Hi Rob,

A lot of the questions you're asking at the moment seem to revolve around the acoustics- in terms of designing a room, as you are, they're amoung the most important, as those factors are almost impossible to change once things are built, while changing electronics and even wire isn't such a big deal (though can be spendy- btw- have you thought about putting conduit in your walls/floors set up such that you can easily pull different wire should you wish to later?).

That's why I keep reccomending Everest's book- it'll give you the background you need to make intellegent (and potentially expensive) decisions. &nbsp;A lot depends on what you're trying to do, your tastes and priorities. &nbsp;There isn't any one right answer, there are a lot of factors to be balanced, and only you can decide where that balance point needs to be.

One thing you should keep in mind is ambient noise. &nbsp;If for example there is a nearby freeway such that there is a constant 70db noise floor, you don't even need to worry if your amp has a signal to noise ratio of 90 vs. 100 db. &nbsp;If you're playing your stuff at (say) 90 db, your noise floor is only 20 down, and that ambient noise is mixing with what's coming out of your speakers- you can only hear the blend.

Where are you putting the furnace in relation to the room? Do you have A/C - in the megabuck HT installations, they spend thousand isolating the ductwork so that the theater can have environmental conditioning but minimal noise is piped into the room. &nbsp;Just somemore stuff for the mix.</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>Hi EdR

I am going to get that book ... but I am caught a little short on funds as of late... so please bare with me.

That is a great idea of running conduit internally through the walls to allow for future rewire pulling. But if one drilled holes through the studs big enough, would it not allow for rewire pulling, or do you have to run conduit?

If so, what type of material for a conduit is ideal? Liek a PVC pipe with elbows for corners?

This house will be built in a small town, so as for now there is not alot of traffic to invade ambient noise.

That is also a great note about other items affecting the ambient noise... I will have to set the room further away from the utility room... Thanks EdR</font>
 
Rip Van Woofer

Rip Van Woofer

Audioholic General
<font color='#000000'>I still have to get the acoustics book too, Ed! But here's another source of info that looks good:

Auralex Acoustics 101

Auralex is a company that makes acoustic treatments for pro audio. So naturally there is some marketing involved. But the construction stuff seems to make sense.</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>Thanks for the link Rip, I will check that out!</font>
 
M

Martin_S

Enthusiast
<font color='#000000'>Regarding cables in walls...

An electrical inspector once told me that he could care less about anything that's low voltage. But there are still some rules to be followed. Anything (speaker, line level, coax, cat 5, etc.) that is installed in a wall space should be &quot;CL&quot; rated. The term &quot;riser&quot; rated is also used and it is basically the same thing. If you run anything through a cold air return (sometimes it's the only way to get there from here), a cable must be &quot;plenum&quot; rated, or it must go through an approved conduit, like steel or aluminum flex conduit.

Monster has lots of CL rated cable. I used their 14-4 (14 gauge, 4 conductor) and 14-2 CL speaker cable for surround runs and in-ceiling speakers. Belden also has lots of cable types for permanent installation. Check out that Hometech Solutions site.</font>
 
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