
Davemcc
Audioholic Spartan
OK, so the first step to bi-wiring "correctly" is to use a speaker that has a jumper in the crossover, essentially a bi-ampable speaker. What you're saying, as I understand it in layman's terms, is that each speaker's load will determine what signal is allowed to travel through it's associated cable, even though the speaker's output post is trying to send a full range signal down both cables?Dave- see my response above. The low and high frequencies never recombine, but go to their respective drivers (only) once the crossover is split into two legs by removal of the jumper straps.
Note to all looking at this thread - my first post said ..." bi-wiring CAN make a difference....". I did not say that it always makes a difference. I tried to explain in laymen’s terms why it SHOULD make a difference if done correctly.
I'm an audiophile (or as my wife says, "one of those") since 1961 and I've done it all including a TRI-wired pair of Hyperion 938s. Bi-wiring does work if done correctly.![]()
But my question would be "If you start with a speaker that is bi-ampable, would it not be better to bi-amp it than bi-wire it?"
Further, as in my case where my speakers are not bi-ampable, there would be absolutely no benefit to bi-wiring?