OK, here's the straight poop:
Unless a cable is way out of whack (technical term

) in resistance, capacitance, or inductance (R, C, and L to electronic types) there will be NO (zero, zip, nada, diddly, squat) audible differences. R, C, and L are the ONLY factors that have anything to do with performance at audio frequencies -- forget skin effect and all the rest. In purely electronic terms there's no reason to spend more than $10 a meter, let alone $100. Any decently made cable will have acceptably low R, C and L.
The very high priced cables that actually DO sound different even in blind tests are high in R, C or L, which basically makes it into an expensive and uncontrollable tone control due to interactions between it, your amp, and your speakers!
What you pay a (possibly) justifiable premium for with Blue Jeans and other premium cable or even Radio Shack's top-of-the-line is heavy duty construction and cosmetics. Nothing more. So...decide how much that is worth to you and buy accordingly.
For my part, I don't give a rat's patoot what my cables look like since I try to keep them out of sight. I did spend a bit extra to get some very short interconnects with fairly beefy plugs from Parts Express (seems the car audio guys like 18" and 20" ICs for some reason), which tames the spaghetti jungle behind the gear. Just an example of one person's priorities.
My speaker wire is merely 16 ga. zip cord with Rat Shack spade lugs because I have screw terminals on my DIY speakers. 16 ga. is plenty heavy enough for the 6' of wire per speaker.