Audio file for testing purposes?

[lovinthehd]

Yea maybe I should head over there. I would be interested in renting the hardware for REW, maybe they have a set.
Thanks for the help guys.

Hardware for REW as in a measuring mic? Doubt there's a loaner but who knows. If you're looking to buy a usb mic the Dayton UMM-6 or the miniDSP Umik-1 are popular and likely more accurate than what you've got (and would come with a calibration file for the mic). To implement eq with REW data a miniDSP 2x4HD or other models is a popular way to go.

 

[joshk03]

I asked the question here:
https://www.avnirvana.com/threads/renting-a-minidsp-umik-for-use-with-rew.2603/

 

[lovinthehd]

Good luck. I wouldn't call a mic "test equipment" particularly....just a measurement tool. You'd need to keep the miniDSP unit in place once you'd set up any eq with it, so renting one wouldn't be of much use unless you just wanted to experiment with it briefly....

 

[joshk03]

I understood it was for getting the data you needed to adjust your system's equalizer. You make it sound like a equalizer that adjusts itself in real-time. What exactly is it capable of?

 

[lovinthehd]

I understood it was for getting the data you needed to adjust your system's equalizer. You make it sound like a equalizer that adjusts itself in real-time. What exactly is it capable of?

REW does the data getting in conjunction with the mic. You can use REW to generate and export EQ profiles you can apply with miniDSP (and some other units, like a Behringer iNuke DSP amp), maybe your existing computer's software can accept that, don't know. The miniDSP (2x4HD model for example) is a stand alone unit that provides EQ, crossover, delay type DSP. Once you apply it in a miniDSP to your system you leave it in place. I don't think you need a miniDSP.

 

[joshk03]

This house has an open living room, kitchen, and office area. The thought I am having is maybe I should consider large floor speakers located at the TV, but connected to the computer. Then I can fill this house with good music during the day. (I work from home.)
I do a lot of planning before I buy anything. We aren't rich, so we tend to skip over the progressive improvement steps of any buying experience and go for something great the first time. Even when that means we do without entirely for a long time. For example, me and my wife lived with a used futon for years before we bought a truly awesome high end sectional/couch. By not losing money in the 'what we can afford now' stage we have more money saved for something great later. I'm right on track, the Bose Soundlink are the first speakers I ever bought, and they will likely be the last for the office.
I seriously appreciate the time you guys, especially lovinthehd, as put into helping me navigate this audio arena. It's so tough to know what you want when you can't hear any of it until it's purchased. I check out everything mentioned and linked to. I gotta say though, the miniDSP was confusing.

 

[lovinthehd]

No worries, takes a while to dig thru all the audio options out there. Staying debt-free and buying stuff that you will use for a long time is a good thing

Maybe look at some larger active speakers, maybe the JBL LSR308. That's a wired setup or were you looking for bluetooth again?

 

[joshk03]

Wired would be preferable. I have HDMI, USB, and headphone available. It will take about a 40' cable to get there.
The JBL LSR308 have great reviews, aren't 3-way speakers a class above though?

 

[lovinthehd]

40' is a very long run, more suited to a balanced cable. The JBLs have balanced inputs but doubt your computer has balanced outputs. Maybe a workaround with some additional electronics, like a direct box in-line to convert unbalanced to balanced. Alternative may be to consider using a pre-amp that provides a balanced output (but likely more expensive). That long a run unbalanced would be more prone to picking up noise.

The additional driver in a 3-way adds complexity and expense over a 2-way, not necessarily better sound. You can always take a good 2-way speaker and make it a three way with a subwoofer, tho (a common solution). The 308s have pretty good bass content, tho and even though there is a sub designed to work with it, for most music you might not miss the lowest frequencies. Don't try to choose speakers simply on 2-way vs 3-way in any case.

 

[joshk03]

The HDMI would be a digital audio signal, I was thinking of using HDMI to get the digital audio over there, then a HDMI audio extractor to plug the speakers in.
https://www.amazon.com/Tensun-Converter-Extractor-Splitter-Blue-ray/dp/B019T0WTV4/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523219559&sr=1-4&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor
Perhaps I can save some money by using a CAT7 cable to build half of a hdmi cable over there. idk. I also have concerns my laptop monitor might shut off with hdmi plugged in, though I should be able to configure that correctly... I haven't researched any of this yet.

 

[lovinthehd]

LOL forgot about the tv for a bit there, was only thinking the audio. Even a 40' hdmi cable can be an issue, over 25' they tend to need to be active hdmi cables (like the Monoprice Redmeres). Your tv has hdmi input? If you only need stereo, the tv can take the hdmi output from your computer and output 2ch with shorter unbalanced cables to the speakers (and often with tvs they are limited to 2ch output anyways, tv's don't make for a good audio control center). Or move the computer....

 

[joshk03]

Yea, the TV has extra hdmi inputs. I was thinking it would stink to need to turn the TV on for the music to play, but now that we talk about it, I just realized I need to think about the volume control experience.

 

[lovinthehd]

Well with your tv remote you should be able to control the volume, assuming the tv has such control of the analog outs. An audio video receiver is a better tool and would give you the option of passive speakers (and only handles active speakers if you get one with pre-outs for at least L/R channels as well as sub). Do you normally not run video from your computer to tv? What is the tv's source?

 

[joshk03]

There is a Roku and DVD player plugged into the TV with HDMI. So I took a picture and it appears the only audio out is optical? There is a wierd port marked "(RGB/HDMI-PC) AUDIO". I don't know what that is.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a98h4tq3cz5ws5a/2018-04-08 16.19.55.jpg?dl=0

 

[joshk03]

Ug. It might be time to consider a receiver. That will be one more remote for my daughter to chew on.

 

[lovinthehd]

Yeah sometimes optical out is the only choice. The RGB port sort of looks like a VGA port, (RGB being essentially red blue green video-only, like the component connection ports you have as well), and expect that input is a 3.5mm for the audio from the computer's headphone jack. I use avrs for each of my tv setups, good tools for the job, particularly for sub integration and multi-ch audio and simple switching of sources....

ps A good universal remote like the Harmony 650 might be a consideration....but may not be slobber-proof

 

[joshk03]

Are their receivers that can be controlled by smartphone apps? I have a Roku app on my phone that completely replaces the original. That would be great, I use my phone like a home remote already for Roku, pool chlorinator, and some lighting.

 

[lovinthehd]

There's a Harmony app for phones, too. Some receivers are network controllable, most of the newer ones have that feature I think, some have phone apps to use as remotes too.

 

[joshk03]

The Denon X1300 mentioned in the other thread has a iPhone app I see. I am liking what I see. However, I think that suggestion was made by a Denon dealer, so I would like some more suggestions to compare it against.

 

[lovinthehd]

That's a decent level of Denon and priced well (and if you want to save some money and are willing to risk a refurb, try looking at accessories4less.com). Starting with that series (x300) there's an Audyssey app for further control (of Audyssey) as well as I'm pretty sure you could control via IP or a remote app.