Amp protection lights on

[PWRmx24]

So the LSi15s handle up to 250w and are 4 ohm speakers. What about the NAD C 268? Thats more in my price range. But its low on watts. I can get a RB-1080 for $700.

 

[PWRmx24]

I see a lot of those RB-1080s and RB-1090 and RB-991s and RMB-1095s around still kicking after all these years so they cant be that bad.

 

[PENG]

I see a lot of those RB-1080s and RB-1090 and RB-991s and RMB-1095s around still kicking after all these years so they cant be that bad.

The Hypex or Purifi suggested are your best bet for those LSI speakers. Without knowing what you actually "power" (almost useless term, but..) requirement is, it is hard to say which model would be suitable, but Polk rated them for 20-300 W (dynamic) so the low cost NC502MP will be able to get them to sound their best.

Class AB amp will do the job too of course, something like the Monolith's 200 Wx2 8 ohms will do but the recommended class D amps will be better if you really want to push them to their limit. All amps (AB, A, or D) rated more than 200/300 W 8/4 ohms with THD<0.01%, 20-20,000 Hz in the price range $1,000 to $infinity will sound virtually the same for those speakers. There are just too much BS/hearsay on the internet so, to save time and money, it is best to stick with specs and measurements that are at least consistent, repeatable, provable facts.

 

[Golfx]

Hi again—you came to this forum for advice. All forum members, so far are recommending you buy and use Class D amps. Engineering science and applications have moved forward onto Class D amps. Are you still wanting old used AB amps? Why?

 

[everettT]

Ok so are you all telling me I'm wasting money on a used Rotel RB-1080 or 1095 or 991 and can get a brand new unit that's as good or better sounding for the same or less $ that will last as long?

Absolutely . If going with a small package and no heat sinks, I'd recommend the Purifi first as their modules produce the least amount of heat based on studies from top reviewers, ones that are only interested in science and not fluffy buzzwords. This is not to say the others will have issues, just playing the very long game personally.

 

[Trell]

Hi again—you came to this forum for advice. All forum members, so far are recommending you buy and use Class D amps. Engineering science and applications have moved forward onto Class D amps. Are you still wanting old used AB amps? Why?

If I would buy a new amplifier then a good class D is what I most likely would buy, and as @everettT wrote low heat generation is important to me as well. Also note that an efficient power supply is very important as well as most of the time the amplifier will output low power (1-5 watt or so). I look at idle power as well as standby power as important factors when buying something as that is the state the device would be in most of the time.

That said, I'm only using an Denon AVR that has the amplification I need, but has class AB amps.

I do have two Genelec 2.1 setups that have internal class D amps. The alternative was active monitors from Neumann but they use class AB internal amps that uses much more power and produces much more heat. So, that was an important part of my reason to buy Genelec. The most important part of not buying Neumann a few years ago was that their room EQ and setup software was of flaky beta quality at that time, reading from posts on ASR.

Both Genelec and Neumann makes excellent active monitors.