Amp power.

[TLS Guy]

Not four amps, two.

It's less money.

It would be 180w per side. The speakers are 4ohm.

http://www.ati-amp.com/manuals/powerampspecs.pdf

http://classicaudioparts.com/store/ATI-AT602-Two-Channel-x-60-Watt-Amplifier-B-Stock-120V.html

Each case has two amps, so it is four.

You just need one 909 which will power each speaker with a 250 watt amp.

 

[zumbo]

Those speakers are a standard MTM and the woofers are in parallel. So one side of the crossover will drive the tweeter and the other the woofers.

Not what the manufacturer stated on their website at the time of purchase. Website is gone now. It's a long big company take-over move jobs to China story.

New ones.
http://www.german-maestro.de/US/ms_f_one.htm

 

[zumbo]

Each case has two amps, so it is four.

You just need one 909 which will power each speaker with a 250 watt amp.

I am interested, but I would prefer a dealer.

 

[TLS Guy]

Not what the manufacturer stated on their website at the time of purchase. Website is gone now. It's a long big company take-over move jobs to China story.

New ones.
http://www.german-maestro.de/US/ms_f_one.htm

If it is the same as that last one, then the lower woofer is operating below 120 Hz and the other woofer to 2500 Hz. I bet the crossover when you take out the bridge connection just connects to the low and high pass crossovers. You can find out by taking out the jumpers and then connecting a battery to the lower set of terminals and making and breaking the circuit. I bet both woofers move.

 

[TLS Guy]

I am interested, but I would prefer a dealer.

I know a dealer that will sell to you on line who is 100% reliable.

 

[zumbo]

If it is the same as that last one, then the lower woofer is operating below 120 Hz and the other woofer to 2500 Hz. I bet the crossover when you take out the bridge connection just connects to the low and high pass crossovers. You can find out by taking out the jumpers and then connecting a battery to the lower set of terminals and making and breaking the circuit. I bet both woofers move.

I believe mine were 250/2500.

I have tons of Quart car stuff, and one system is your typical mid/tweet/x-over separates. The other is a add-a-woofer system with it's on set of x-overs. It's a 2ohm set-up once both systems are connected, but is based on the same idea. 250/2500

The wiring diagram is the last one towards the bottom.
PCE-216 with PCE-164
http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/mbquart/pdfs/pce_164.pdf

 

[PENG]

I meant compared to just a 2-channel.

Let me break down my above question.

Option 1) 2-channel amp.

Option 2) 4-channel amp.

Option 3) (2) 2-channel amps.

Any benefit either way, considering somewhat equal total power.



My Adcom has the clip indicators, and I light-it-up (l/r)in 2-channel.

In surround, I will still light-up (l/r), and sometimes the center as well.

This is why I am studying so carefully. I certainly don't want to damage the new set by overdoing it. As you may know, they are not made anymore.

If you have concerns about damaging the speakers due to clipping or overpowering, may be we should first figure out what you need first in terms of SPL and amp power.

If you room is like mine (rectangular, not too big...etc.), you probably would get about 81 dB from 12 ft away from the speakers with 1W. So to get 20 dB of headroom you need about 120W (just roughly).

It seems to me you can do well biamping, albeit passively. I agree with TLSG that the amp for the mid/hi will not be doing much but then it will never clip either. Or you can use a 25W class A Luxman for the mid/hi.

Regardless of the output of the amp and how many drinks you have had, it is still possible to run it to the point it could damage your tweeter due to clipping or overpowering. Tweeters typically just can't take much abuse.

 

[zumbo]

If you have concerns about damaging the speakers due to clipping or overpowering, may be we should first figure out what you need first in terms of SPL and amp power.

If you room is like mine (rectangular, not too big...etc.), you probably would get about 81 dB from 12 ft away from the speakers with 1W. So to get 20 dB of headroom you need about 120W (just roughly).

It seems to me you can do well biamping, albeit passively. I agree with TLSG that the amp for the mid/hi will not be doing much but then it will never clip either. Or you can use a 25W class A Luxman for the mid/hi.

Regardless of the output of the amp and how many drinks you have had, it is still possible to run it to the point it could damage your tweeter due to clipping or overpowering. Tweeters typically just can't take much abuse.

I appreciate the replies, and appreciate how we are able to keep it from being a debate. This is a shopping thread. Joy!

Think I may email my guy at German Maestro and see what kind of information I may be able to get on these speakers. TS parameters, or any graphs you guys recommend to be useful? Knowing how the speaker acts would be interesting to me, but I don't know how to read that stuff.

 

[PENG]

Zumbo, my 20+ years old 555's LED illuminates when THD, IM or other distortions exceed 1%, so it could be clipping a little bit without triggering the LED. What is the trigger point for your Adcom amp's LED?

 

[zumbo]

Zumbo, my 20+ years old 555's LED illuminates when THD, IM or other distortions exceed 1%, so it could be clipping a little bit without triggering the LED. What is the trigger point for your Adcom amp's LED?

Manual states:

The Distortion Alert LED's will light when distortion reaches approximately 1% regardless of impedance, voltage/current phase angle or the reactance of the loudspeakers which the amplifier is driving.

And so-on. So, the same.

 

[zumbo]

Thermal Protection will occur during blu-ray concerts after an hour or so. Usually the right channel. Guitar solo usually the cause.

 

[walter duque]

I was hesitant at first bi-amping my center which is rated at 220 watts with 350X2. And I drink a lot of beer myself, so I know where you're coming from. It took me a while to drive it at +5db and she is holding good no matter what material I play. I am surprised the tweeters don't blow. I can't say that I can a difference at all, but then again it's only the center speaker. Going to get some beer now.

 

[zumbo]

My beer drinking is like all my other hobbies. I check-it out for a while, then I check-out for a while. Been about three weeks without one now. Certainly don't have a drinking problem, I just like a good beer.

Current favorite. Tommyknocker Pick-Axe Ale:
http://www.tommyknocker.com/ourBeer.html#pickAxe

 

[zumbo]

At this point, I am going to do one of two things.

1) Overshoot the power with SS. Very interested in the Quad, and will most likely go this route. I have SS now. Even if I go big, still gonna sound the same as what I have now(Most of the time). Which leads me to #2.

2) Jump head-first into tubes. With a tube system, it will be different. Better, worse. Doesn't matter. Different, and fun. With one or two killer subs in my small drum room, I feel I may be able to achieve my goal.

 

[jp_over]

Yes, you can get them on line if there is no authorized Quad dealer in your area.

I can put you in touch with a reliable dealer who can sell to you on line. The 909 comes up on Audiogon now and again. There is a demo unit for sale now.

I'd be interested in this as well - PM sent.

 

[PENG]

I am surprised the tweeters don't blow.

I have had a couple of times by mistake hooked up my 300W amp input directly to my old Kenwood CD player's output thinking that it was the variable output, my Energy C22 reference tweeter(blew before in normal but loud listening) did not blow either. It depends on the input signal, I mean you can crank the volume of a 2000W amp right up to maximum, nothing will blow if the music signal is not calling for power. It also depends on how long the tweeter has to endure the current. A tweeter can survive short transient high current.

 

[zumbo]

Denon PMA-A100

This is a nice piece:
http://usa.denon.com/us/product/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?CatId=2e66c0cf-065f-442c-812e-1a43f391e599&ProductId=9dbadbe5-aa3f-4bb8-99c0-f2a152205f41

 

[zumbo]

What I did.

I purchased a Denon POA 2200 for now. Has a cool cd only input so I can use my Yamaha cd player with gain control without a pre. I have not researched this, but I hope it has this feature for increasing input voltage/accepting lower voltage internally.

Supposed to be good for 300w x 2@4ohm.

We will see.

 

[zumbo]

Found a manual.

Manual does show a line voltage selector knob. It can be seen in the center at the bottom of the above picture.

Excited!

CD-Amplified. Pure Analog.

 

[zumbo]

It's here.

It's friggin HUGE! Bigger than my Adcom 7605.

And best of all, it works. I have it hooked-up to my cd player, and a little pair of Realistic speakers to test. I can crank full volume without any problems. Clean as a whistle. Understand, this is just using the cd player gain.

The amp also has gain knobs for each channel. 12 o'clock right now.

Not sure about the voltage knob. What I found was a service manual, not an owners manual.

I will get the Quarts hooked-up tomorrow, along with trying the normal inputs using my Yamaha 1400 as a pre. Hopefully the normal inputs work as well.

Fun, fun.