New House, New Theater

strube

strube

Audioholic Field Marshall
Good news:

Huzzah! The Denon isn't the issue. It is a cable issue. I remembered one thing I hadn't tested as I was preparing to send in the beast.

The HDMI train from the Denon to the projector for some reason doesn't like the ATI graphics card.

I guess am not surprised, there are 7 different interfaces from the receiver to the projector:

HDMI right angle adapter
6 ft HDMI 1.4 cable
HDMI wall plate
15' HDMI 1.4 cable in the wall (hopefully this isn't the problem - it won't be fun to re-run it)
HDMI wall plate
2' HDMI 1.4 cable

Any one of those could be the problem. I ran an extra 15' cable straight from receiver to projector and don't have the issue. I don't know why this only appears when running the HTPC, but there it is. I am quite happy I don't have to send in the 4310. :D

In other news, I think I will actually be able to get to the other panels in the next few weeks. Good times.
 
strube

strube

Audioholic Field Marshall
My sub is incredibly sad that I am going to be selling him to make room for...something else...:D

I care little for my sub's sadness.


Mwahahahaha!!
 
strube

strube

Audioholic Field Marshall
Oh dayum, did you get both?!
I had no choice, Gene twisted my arm. ;) He didn't want to sell them separate, and I tried to argue but not very hard...actually I only asked, no arguments took place. Worst case I have to resell one I guess - but I don't really think I want to.

The negotiations with SWIMBO were heated at times, but I agreed to sell the two Paradigm subs we have as a compromise (as well as getting on selling the speakers from the Wyoming HT...), so I don't know if the theater will end up with both DD15s or just one, as the TV room will be sub-less too. I was thinking I at the very least have to try things out in the theater with both, right? Right??

Overkill? Yes. :D

I could also move the Dayton 10" sub from the office to the TV...hmmmmmm...

Is it sad that I am spending about the same amount on subs as I did on the rest of my speakers?
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
I don't know the answers, ok I do know one answer, and that is "No, it's not overkill". :D

Sell the digms and WY stuff ASAP for your marriage's sake. :)

I am sure you are much too busy, but if I was half as handy as you, I'd be building my subs. In fact, I'm probably 1/10th as handy as you, and I foresee DIY only for the rest of my future. (I've spent way too much damn $$$$ on this hobby, and it may be the only way I can live with myself! :eek:)
 
strube

strube

Audioholic Field Marshall
I don't know the answers, ok I do know one answer, and that is "No, it's not overkill". :D
This answer is excellent.

I am sure you are much too busy, but if I was half as handy as you, I'd be building my subs. In fact, I'm probably 1/10th as handy as you, and I foresee DIY only for the rest of my future. (I've spent way too much damn $$$$ on this hobby, and it may be the only way I can live with myself! :eek:)
I hear ya, man (and I appreciate the compliment :)). I am hoping I can slow down a bit from real-life-related business to enjoy the DIY thing. I figure these subs are the last non-DIY speaker purchase I make. I also figure that the way I take care of things, all should be well for their resale. I have some tools to collect as well, but I should be pretty close on that front. Before I moved, since my parents lived in the same town, I always had access to a tool collection that had accumulated over a much longer period of time.

I still have 6 fiberglass panels waiting to be acoustified. I really should be ashamed. I did build a workbench last weekend and am finally starting to get the garage looking like a garage. Panels are next and then we will probably see no changes to the theater for quite a while. I want to do the screen soon but I am pretty sure tensions are high and I should let things cool down for about a year from now, then after a bit longer than that, it will be long past time for me to try and build a speaker (or seven). :D I agreed that the Axioms would have to keep me happy for at least 6 years.

Hopefully kids don't screw up all of my grand plans. ;)
 
strube

strube

Audioholic Field Marshall
Tom Petty says it best...


We all know he is pretending to sing about the ladies, but the ladies are really a metaphor for subwoofers. :D

(Tom Petty sure is a goofy lookin' fella. No offense to Tom Petty or Tom Petty look-alikes, of course.)
 
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strube

strube

Audioholic Field Marshall
My JVC DLA-RS60U3D Projector arrives tomorrow...and my upgraded center will be here next week, but I can't talk about that.
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
My JVC DLA-RS60U3D Projector arrives tomorrow...and my upgraded center will be here next week, but I can't talk about that.
Why can't you talk about that? :eek:

Congrats on the JVC! I'm sure it must be very nice, but I haven't been following PJs very much, or in fact AV in general like I used to, so can I ask you what you know about its 2D performance compared to previous gens? Thanks, and if ever you see a screaming deal, feel free to let me know. :)

Myself, I'm currently trying to find a good place to buy an OSRAM bulb rather than OEM, but I'm not exactly where to go right now for that.

Oh, and what Paradigm Dawg said.
 
strube

strube

Audioholic Field Marshall
Why can't you talk about that? :eek:
Oh, it is an Axiom VP160 to replace my VP150, which has a very annoying off-axis clarity issues because of the stupid driver layout. The Axioms seem to have fallen out of grace here for some reasonable reasons but maybe to a greater extent than reasonable, so I didn't want to bring shame upon my house ;). I am reasonably happy with the rest of my Axioms (I still really want all new speakers), but I am still planning to go the DIY route for my next system, should I ever be at a point in my life where I want to tackle that project.

Congrats on the JVC! I'm sure it must be very nice, but I haven't been following PJs very much, or in fact AV in general like I used to, so can I ask you what you know about its 2D performance compared to previous gens? Thanks, and if ever you see a screaming deal, feel free to let me know. :)
Thanks! I have been out of the AV scene myself - pony cars have been occupying my time and moneys of late. I just started getting back into things lately because my dad is doing his third theater and so I have to get up to speed on all of this stuff again. That is going to be an interesting one; I will have to pick your brain on acoustic treatment of the space behind AT screen, but that is a topic for another thread.

Anyhow, I ordered the RS60 for several reasons. One, my Epson is just too loud (both the fan and the dynamic iris) for my tastes at this point, and the RS60 is supposed to be far superior in that regard. It honestly doesn't bother anybody but me, but that is just a personal problem of mine, I guess. Like many other Epson owners, I played Epson warranty roulette a little bit and got one with great picture quality and convergence, so the slightly loud fan was a small price to pay for that. All of them had a loud iris so I shut that crap off. I am really looking forward to having no dynamic iris along with the best black levels I have seen (according to everything I have read on the RS60).

I am also pretty excited about the CMS. I have never had a properly calibrated PJ, and I fully intend to make sure this one is. I haven't read to much on that, but I am wondering if there is a DIY calibration solution that will work for me without me having to pay some isf guy many thousands to come to the middle of nowhere to do the calibration for me.

I expect the brightness to be comparable to the Epson in eco mode, which is what we run in most of the time. It is my understanding that the JVC will not have quite the brightness capabilities, but I will know for sure tomorrow.

I feel like I got a screaming deal on a brand new one, which probably has something to do with the fact that it is 2 generations old (at least as soon as these latest ones hit stores, if they haven't already). B&H Photo has the RS60 including the full 3D extras for $4k and the RS50 for $2.7k. The 50 and the 60 from what I understand are basically the same, except that they supposedly select components with tighter tolerances for the 60. I don't know if the extra 30000:1 contrast is really worth the extra moneys but my dad got a 60 so I at least had to keep up with him. :rolleyes:

I honestly don't care at all about the free $400 worth of 3D extras with the RS60, considering I hate 3D with all of my heart and soul, but I was planning to maybe try it out once for kicks and then sell those components as I believe they are compatible with all the 3D JVC projectors.

Myself, I'm currently trying to find a good place to buy an OSRAM bulb rather than OEM, but I'm not exactly where to go right now for that.
I have been out of the loop for a while. Are you still rocking your RS1?

Oh, and what Paradigm Dawg said.
Meaning you hate me? :D
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
Answers to questions, in respective order: Yes, and Yes. :D

Interesting about Axiom's "fall from grace". I feel like I remembered it was THE brand that was the most talked about by "admin", with visits to their company, great praise over the value, variety of finishes, etc. Well, I've had very bad things said about the nicest speakers I own, so I can feel for you. Not that you worry too much about it, and you shouldn't.

I noticed your other thread about the Aperions. I have my current HT towers standing on cinder blocks, but I will say one of the things I wonder about is how much I am losing out on because the baffle step compensation designed into the speakers never accounted for having the towers lifted up. Sure, in an HT situation we set a higher xover than a living room stereo setup, but still I just wonder a little bit. Something to consider; maybe some big azz ugly commercial, dare I say the word, "bookshelves" could be in order if they're all hidden. Wife will have a heart attack I suppose, and that's never good, but they're hidden maybe?
 
3db

3db

Audioholic Slumlord
Very nice...love the thought behind the sliding acoustic panels to block out the light. Very very cool. Sharp looking room.
 
strube

strube

Audioholic Field Marshall
Answers to questions, in respective order: Yes, and Yes. :D

Interesting about Axiom's "fall from grace". I feel like I remembered it was THE brand that was the most talked about by "admin", with visits to their company, great praise over the value, variety of finishes, etc. Well, I've had very bad things said about the nicest speakers I own, so I can feel for you. Not that you worry too much about it, and you shouldn't.

I noticed your other thread about the Aperions. I have my current HT towers standing on cinder blocks, but I will say one of the things I wonder about is how much I am losing out on because the baffle step compensation designed into the speakers never accounted for having the towers lifted up. Sure, in an HT situation we set a higher xover than a living room stereo setup, but still I just wonder a little bit. Something to consider; maybe some big azz ugly commercial, dare I say the word, "bookshelves" could be in order if they're all hidden. Wife will have a heart attack I suppose, and that's never good, but they're hidden maybe?
I worry about the same thing, as well as putting the tweeter too high above the listening position. I am also thinking the sub will end up elevated as well (and even more than the speakers) as he wants it behind the screen too, but he put a huge freaking engineered beam at both the top and bottom where the screen frame goes (the perils of designing an HT over the phone, I guess). I have limited knowledge/recollection of the implications of raising all of these speakers 6"-15" above the floor they were designed to be placed upon.

I wondered about going with something like those JTR monstrosities that RMK raves about, but my dad was kind of freaked out by that whole idea, even though they would be completely hidden behind the screen. He thought they looked "loud" and not refined enough to provide enjoyment of films, especially dialogue, at a reasonable volume. They maybe kind of freak me out as well, even though I know they are suitable for more than just rock concerts.

I am sure at the end of the day when we get the whole thing done and calibrated everything will probably sound fine and he will be happy... as long as his backordered 3rd Verus tower comes in before I go to set it up at Christmas time.
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
Ah, for the pops, I see. I wouldn't sweat raising the speakers 6-15". If there are any sacrifices, my opinion is that they will be miniscule compared to the advantages with AT.

Ok I ran a search to find your thread again, to see which Verus it was, not that it matters. Ok good, it's not a vertical MTM config sitting on top of a lower bass driver (which I feared at first glance, due to symmetry of top three drivers), because then being on the plane of the tweeter is a lot more important.

I'm about to momentarily post this Amazon Lightning deal, about 1:20 left now, Auralex Mopads good up to 100 lbs. Coincidentally, I was thinking of possibly advising to simply angle the speakers a tad bit. I haven't seen people mention using towers with these, but if the angle is only slight, maybe they could work well? I dunno. 51% off right now at $21.99.

Amazon.com: Auralex MoPAD Monitor Isolators: Musical Instruments

Almost forgot, careful about a sub DIRECTLY behind the screen, unless he likes a shaking screen. If you want to enginerd something or other, look up basspig's thread, he jimmied something up because his ridonkulous system had the screen slapping* against the frame or something, and whatever he did supposedly took care of it.

If he ever scratches the Verus idea for whatever reason, and wants prettier bookshelves, as MTMs for greater power, I wonder how the Salks would do. They are a lot more expensive than Ascend MTMs that's for sure, however, in fact only $300 less per pr than the Grand Towers.
 
strube

strube

Audioholic Field Marshall
Ah, for the pops, I see. I wouldn't sweat raising the speakers 6-15". If there are any sacrifices, my opinion is that they will be miniscule compared to the advantages with AT.

Ok I ran a search to find your thread again, to see which Verus it was, not that it matters. Ok good, it's not a vertical MTM config sitting on top of a lower bass driver (which I feared at first glance, due to symmetry of top three drivers), because then being on the plane of the tweeter is a lot more important.
Isn't the Grand Tower a vertical MTM configuration above two bass drivers though? :confused:



I'm about to momentarily post this Amazon Lightning deal, about 1:20 left now, Auralex Mopads good up to 100 lbs. Coincidentally, I was thinking of possibly advising to simply angle the speakers a tad bit. I haven't seen people mention using towers with these, but if the angle is only slight, maybe they could work well? I dunno. 51% off right now at $21.99.

Amazon.com: Auralex MoPAD Monitor Isolators: Musical Instruments
I just missed the deal, which is unfortunate as I could use some myself. I think he would need wider MoPads. I would be a bit concerned with stability with the towers directly on the foam, too.

Almost forgot, careful about a sub DIRECTLY behind the screen, unless he likes a shaking screen. If you want to enginerd something or other, look up basspig's thread, he jimmied something up because his ridonkulous system had the screen slapping* against the frame or something, and whatever he did supposedly took care of it.
Hmmm. Thanks for bringing that up - I never even considered that being a problem. I will have to dig that thread up for certain.

If he ever scratches the Verus idea for whatever reason, and wants prettier bookshelves, as MTMs for greater power, I wonder how the Salks would do. They are a lot more expensive than Ascend MTMs that's for sure, however, in fact only $300 less per pr than the Grand Towers.
I was looking at the Salks and Ascends for him, but he was stuck on the Aperions because he wants matching dipoles for the surrounds, and neither of those brands offer matching (non-custom) dipole surrounds. Of course, after all of that, he isn't even able to buy the Verus dipole surrounds at this time (they are saying maybe they will be available by March). If for some reason he doesn't like how the Aperions work out and wants to send them back, I will definitely encourage him to talk to Mr. Salk and look into bookshelves for the fronts, and I am sure he could get custom matching dipoles made if he so desired.

Here is a picture of the future screen wall, just for reference. It is going to be pretty much all screen - he just ordered a 150" diagonal 16:9 screen from Seymour. You can see the unnecessary beam at the bottom that I was complaining about.




In other news, my PJ got delayed but I received my 3D gear for it. Now I have to wait for Monday, I won't be around for signatures like I was today, and I am cranky. :mad:
 
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J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
Oops, I think I was looking at the smaller towers. Yeah it sure looks like an MTM. What is the off-axis angle you predict; what is seating distance and tweeter height, roughly, off the cuff? And/or how many inches above ear level do you think the tweeter will be? Not that I can judge any number you give me, I'm just curious is all. If you angle the speaker even a bit, my prediction is that the angle will be negligible. You could* do a riser, but then if there are recliners, feet will quickly get in the way with 150"!

Speaking of the size, I hope he is going with a DLP here, in a bat cave? Because LCOS/LCD won't be able to properly light up that kind of real estate with XD. Well, I've seen people go really huge XD with that tech(s) even in what looks like a living room type of situation, but I doubt that would work for me.

There IS such a thing as going too big. What is predicted viewing angle? One row of seating?

If Pops is made of money, and lots of it, this is one of those situations where going scope could be welcome. Of course the best way is to really go cinemascope with the glass: You still have maximum size possible with 2.35 while losing virtually nothing in terms of lumens for lighting it up (whereas I lose 25% of brightness at the black bars). IOW the very same size of 2.35 would be 25% brighter compared to using it on a 1.78 screen system, and of course then the smaller 1.78 is brighter simply because it's smaller. The beams now become an afterthought (edit: well, I guess not really, nevermind). There is the auto-zoom method, but I'll let you figure those compromises/balances out as you change ARs with that.

You mentioned something about treatments. If hanging in the middle of a wall, I highly recommend Ooks, you can find them at Amazon, even BedBathBeyond. I first learned about them when Glenn Kuras (GIK) recommended them. I now prefer them for hanging my artwork, calendars, anything really, and will never go back to using regular old nails again. Ever. No need to look for studs, drywall will hold up even the heaviest panels I have.

I KNOW there is something else I wanted to mention but I forget it now. The Ooks thing I kept forgetting the last couple of posts, so maybe look out for my idea a couple posts from now. :p

EDIT again: I ran a handle search, looking up keyword slapping, two results of which only one has to do with the screen, no pics, and am not sure what exactly is going on, but maybe you can understand it. Ok it was slapping against support struts, which almost the rest of us would not have, so nevermind I guess.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/pros-joes-systems-gallery/57649-bass-pigs-lair-gets-projection-system-12.html#post712719

Ahh now that reminds me of the story I want to share. I used to have my PJ on a bookshelf before ceiling mounting it. The LFE shook the PJ in the former setup quite a bit. Sometimes it actually added to the overall effect, because you know, everything just seemed more violent. Other times, it was totally unwelcome, it only detracted. Anyway, it's rather a known thing that powerful subs firing behind the screen can often shake it. I suppose the farther you can keep it, the better. Downfiring subs, maybe upward firing or some other strange layout/design.
 
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jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
Another thought. It's really hard to tell from here, but it looks to be only a little bit of space behind the beams? If so, I might consider having speakers and screen in front of the beams. My guess is that it will sound better with more space between speakers and walls, at least that's the case in my own limited experiences. Build a false wall in front just enough. Yes, the screen will look even bigger now, but maybe the room is longer than the pic might suggest, I don't know.

Well, I guess you already might have to lift speakers just to clear any screen frame. I'm not sure how much "lift" you'd save by doing it all in front, I suppose it could be pretty minimal where it might not be worth it to him.
 
strube

strube

Audioholic Field Marshall
Oops, I think I was looking at the smaller towers. Yeah it sure looks like an MTM. What is the off-axis angle you predict; what is seating distance and tweeter height, roughly, off the cuff? And/or how many inches above ear level do you think the tweeter will be? Not that I can judge any number you give me, I'm just curious is all. If you angle the speaker even a bit, my prediction is that the angle will be negligible. You could* do a riser, but then if there are recliners, feet will quickly get in the way with 150"!

Speaking of the size, I hope he is going with a DLP here, in a bat cave? Because LCOS/LCD won't be able to properly light up that kind of real estate with XD. Well, I've seen people go really huge XD with that tech(s) even in what looks like a living room type of situation, but I doubt that would work for me.
Distance from seated ears to the speakers is going to be about 17', and the speakers will probably end up being raised 8", so we are probably talking about maybe 2.5 degrees off axis angle, assuming the angle was zero with the speakers on the floor. Now that I do the calculations, perhaps I am worrying about that way too much. :) That said, it would also be no problem to angle them forward by 2.5 degrees.

He already has an RS60 in a 100% light-controlled room and we used this tool to determine if it falls in the recommended brightness range. We have it near the front of the zoom range (about 16' to the screen), so I am hoping it will be okay. We have had such bad luck with DLP reliability between his stuff and everything that I have had or installed for others that I doubt I will ever go there again. There are going to be two rows of seats and I think the front of the first row is at about 16', but his viewing distance is more flexible than most other things.

You mentioned something about treatments. If hanging in the middle of a wall, I highly recommend Ooks, you can find them at Amazon, even BedBathBeyond. I first learned about them when Glenn Kuras (GIK) recommended them. I now prefer them for hanging my artwork, calendars, anything really, and will never go back to using regular old nails again. Ever. No need to look for studs, drywall will hold up even the heaviest panels I have.
I need to get some updated pictures. Things have come a long way since the pic I posted was taken. I think he has already lined all non-AT surfaces (walls, floor, door, and ceiling) in the "speaker room" behind the false wall with the R-13 version of this stuff. Acoustic properties are at the bottom of the linked pdf. Do you see any negatives to doing that?

We will just treat first reflections in the room, except for the ceiling. I can never win that battle. :)

I buy those Ooks products at our Home Depot. They are awesome!


EDIT again: I ran a handle search, looking up keyword slapping, two results of which only one has to do with the screen, no pics, and am not sure what exactly is going on, but maybe you can understand it. Ok it was slapping against support struts, which almost the rest of us would not have, so nevermind I guess.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/pros-joes-systems-gallery/57649-bass-pigs-lair-gets-projection-system-12.html#post712719

Ahh now that reminds me of the story I want to share. I used to have my PJ on a bookshelf before ceiling mounting it. The LFE shook the PJ in the former setup quite a bit. Sometimes it actually added to the overall effect, because you know, everything just seemed more violent. Other times, it was totally unwelcome, it only detracted. Anyway, it's rather a known thing that powerful subs firing behind the screen can often shake it. I suppose the farther you can keep it, the better. Downfiring subs, maybe upward firing or some other strange layout/design.
Thanks for the info. It sounds like we will have to experiment a bit. He already bought one of my 15" Velodyne DD15 subs (I just didn't have the room or the WAF for 2 big subs). We also ran wires to the back of the room so if for some reason it doesn't work out behind the screen we have another option. He could end up with a downfiring sub in front and the DD15 in back at some point.

Another thought. It's really hard to tell from here, but it looks to be only a little bit of space behind the beams? If so, I might consider having speakers and screen in front of the beams. My guess is that it will sound better with more space between speakers and walls, at least that's the case in my own limited experiences. Build a false wall in front just enough. Yes, the screen will look even bigger now, but maybe the room is longer than the pic might suggest, I don't know.
Things are pretty much set in stone at this point. There is 3' 6" behind the beams which will have to suffice because that is the most I could get him to sacrifice of the room.

I am still annoyed with those huge beams. The only intent of them is to be a false screen wall, he just did beams when he really didn't need to do anything but a few 2x4 struts to support the screen. He called me and said "I've got my false screen wall framed" as opposed to asking me how to frame it. I guess being 1200 miles away doesn't help - I was there for the framing of the last one and it wasn't as complicated.
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
Distance from seated ears to the speakers is going to be about 17', and the speakers will probably end up being raised 8", so we are probably talking about maybe 2.5 degrees off axis angle, assuming the angle was zero with the speakers on the floor. Now that I do the calculations, perhaps I am worrying about that way too much. :) That said, it would also be no problem to angle them forward by 2.5 degrees.

He already has an RS60 in a 100% light-controlled room and we used this tool to determine if it falls in the recommended brightness range. We have it near the front of the zoom range (about 16' to the screen), so I am hoping it will be okay. We have had such bad luck with DLP reliability between his stuff and everything that I have had or installed for others that I doubt I will ever go there again. There are going to be two rows of seats and I think the front of the first row is at about 16', but his viewing distance is more flexible than most other things.
Leave the speakers slightly too high for the front row, out of respect to the rear row. You can split the diff, maybe with a slight pref for the front, if you want to.

I think you would have a hard time finding an enthusiast that would disagree with me about 150" XD being too big for that PJ. I have no direct experience with that PJ, and this is an educated guess. Sorry to break that opinion to you. This doesn't mean he won't be happy as a clam, but I can't see any experienced enthusiast recommending this size to begin with, particularly without the brightness of DLP.

As far as I understand it, yes closer PJ is brighter, but I've read that you don't want to max out the limits of a PJ (zoom for example), because you might not get every bit back on that compromise so to speak. Me, I've no idea, but maybe you can ask those who know a lot more than I do.

Also IMO, there isn't such a thing as 100% light controlled. The best that could be had is probably about 99% after you line the entire room in best grade velvet, wear clothes made of the same velvet, cover the seats in this velvet, etc. Flat black paint is orders of magnitude more reflective than just a decent velvet. IOW, if 100% light control means beige walls, I would have to disagree. I don't know how much is done, but at least paint is cheap. I recommend black carpeting/rugs, at least in front of viewers, and black ceiling is requisite with 150" XD powered by JVC, IMO. Check out Rosco Supersaturated Velour or something like that, I think #6003 it might have been. I'm just driving home the point as you know.

I need to get some updated pictures. Things have come a long way since the pic I posted was taken. I think he has already lined all non-AT surfaces (walls, floor, door, and ceiling) in the "speaker room" behind the false wall with the R-13 version of this stuff. Acoustic properties are at the bottom of the linked pdf. Do you see any negatives to doing that?

We will just treat first reflections in the room, except for the ceiling. I can never win that battle. :)
I'm not the one to ask, but it seems a lot of people use R13. Also, the ceiling becomes a lot less important to treat when you're running vertical MTMs.

Things are pretty much set in stone at this point. There is 3' 6" behind the beams which will have to suffice because that is the most I could get him to sacrifice of the room.
I understand, and I probably have already run the risk sounding a bit like a jerk, but then if there was a chance that he was* going to change out stuff due to dissatisfaction, it's probably cheaper and easier to do it now than later. My main concern is the screen size as 1.78 powered by JVC in anything less than a bat cave. Maybe DIY masking panels, I don't know, get a scope lens. Someone told me that James Cameron doesn't even use the whatchmacallit motorized thing to move the lens, he just throws it over with a pool cue or something. You can remove the panels for the sole purpose of watching the latest Batman movies if desired, sans lens, post zoom/focus adjustments, I dunno, I am blabbering a lot aren't I. I farted out the nutty DIY panels idea trying to quickly come up with a plan that doesn't require getting rid of any made purchases, but it would OTOH require more purchases. And I'm not saying it's a good idea either, just shooting the you know what.

Also, even if he throws up the pic, and goes, WOW! AWESOME! doesn't mean he'll still think that 500 hours later, or even 100 hours later where some people have even measured up to 30% lumens loss on an OEM JVC bulb. The PJ will be the very cleanest inside when fired up right OTB, no film or outgassing has yet occurred, etc, basically, it will look the brightest it will ever look in its lifetime using an OEM bulb when he first fires it up. Just FWIW.

I am still annoyed with those huge beams. The only intent of them is to be a false screen wall, he just did beams when he really didn't need to do anything but a few 2x4 struts to support the screen. He called me and said "I've got my false screen wall framed" as opposed to asking me how to frame it. I guess being 1200 miles away doesn't help - I was there for the framing of the last one and it wasn't as complicated.
The remodeler that helped me to begin mine happened to be degreed in art now that I think about it, and he advised me that being plumb was more important than anything else here, including being level. I don't know how much his art background relates to AV, so take that FWIW. And I followed his advice, I went plumb first and foremost, using a mallet to adjust before drilling in the huge screws into floor and ceiling.

I will check back in again by tomorrow night, it might be late. Ask BMX to chime in, send him a PM, I think we'd both be curious as to what he says. Also, seeing what 3D enthusiasts say about JVC, there will be people that say it's totally out of the question here. But if dad is like me, he probably won't care all that much.
 
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