Sell me on a real 5.1 system VS AiO kit.

[Mkilbride]

Hmm. I went to BestBuy today, against my better Judgement, to try to buy a Kindle Touch, for reading at work. Of course, in stock online and on the phone, but out of stock in the store. This is the fourth time I've gone there, each time for a different item, and they've been "Out of Stock" and saying that their Website & Computers aren't updated daily or some ****. They also have the 1712 going for about 450$, VS the 260$ someone else showed me for a new one. No wonder Bestbuy is going out of BUsiness.

I found the Pioneer on the Shelves!

Wow, I was right. They are WAY to big for my room. The center was HUGE! When I say huge, I mean bigger than the majority of the bookshelf speakers suggested in this thread by a long shot. The thing was crazy. It was bigger than the Bookshelves it comes with. Seriously. You could knock someone out with it like a club. No way it would fit on my desk lol. Mounting it would be tough as well.

They had some Martin tiny speaker, but no name of what it was or anything and no real way to test it, but it had a decent size. Abit smaller than my current, but I think it may have been the MLT-2, as they look alot like what I saw online, but again, way to demo it. There was a touch screen to select different speakers to hear; but I tried it out and it said it was playing from the ML Speaker, but it was still coming from the other floorstanding ones, which were some brand I never heard of. They also told me they won't demo speakers not on the floor already...

Also, they had the Soundwares on a shelf for display and I was surprised.

Honestly, pictures online make them look really small, but they're bigger than the ML ones I saw.

Their square shape worries me though and they are listed as an "Outdoor / Indoor speaker"

And a review by this website says they aren't good for Hometheater, but music, so I assume they wouldn't fit my needs. I just like that they come with mounts and can do the full 360 twirl and always easy to just pick up another 2 and get 7.1

Hard to say though.

 

[Mkilbride]

Well

I'm kinda pissed.

All my stuff arrived today, was going to be excellent, had free 2 day shipping on all items.

Box "Energy Take Micro RC"

Fudging A.

Opening a dispute on Amazon right now over this; first time I've ever ordered something and gotten a different product like this, so it's new to me.

I somehow wish the replacements could get here by Friday, but it's a 12 hour wait on customer support.

Damn Amazon...way to scare me from using you.

 

[jonnythan]

Give me a link to the exact product page you ordered.

 

[jonnythan]

After some quick research, it looks like the RC Micro might be a better product than the Take Classic.

 

[Mkilbride]

Amazon.com: Energy Take Classic 5 Pack 5.0 Home Theater Speaker (Black): Electronics

The micro? Better?

They have a smaller driver & tweeter and don't reach the same low frequencies.

"
Center channel: RC - 150Hz to 23KHz Take Classic- 110Hz to 20KHz
Satellite: RC - 150Hz to 23KHz Take Classic- 115Hz to 20KHz"

 

[jonnythan]

Yes, better, despite the specs.

Personally I'd hook them up and see how I liked them before I threw a fit to Amazon.

 

[Mkilbride]

Once again, I'll state, I'm no audiophile.

But can you please explain to me how they're better?

They're smaller; they don't reach the same frequencies, the center channel is like 2/3rds the size of the classic, they cost less, and every review, even Audioholics, claim they aren't as good.

 

[its phillip]

RC Micros are better. You'll just have to set the crossover higher.

 

[jonnythan]

From batpig, a guy who generally knows his stuff:

"RC-Micro are smaller, with higher build quality and better drivers. They will have a more "refined" sound. The sub is a little better also. Whether it is "worth it" is strictly up to you and how critical you are in your bedroom listening. If you can afford the extra and are seeking the maximum sound quality from the smallest possible package, the RC-Micro will be great. If you aren't super critical and will only be doing casual, moderate volume listening, the Take Classic will probably be fine."

The RC Micro is also more expensive.

 

[Mkilbride]

Hmm.

It'll be a pain in the arse to set it all up and then take it back down to send it back.

I was googling and saw that post as well, Jonny. I still dunno.

RC Micro isn't more expensive on Amazon.

We'll see though, they sent me a shipping return label; fat lot of good that does me, I've no printer.

 

[Mkilbride]

Ok, I've setup the two fronts & center for now, have to clear room for the subwoofer later and setup the tears, going to have to do some precision cutting, and to make sure, I ordered more Speaker wire, another 100 feet, off Amazon.

10$.

4$ for over-night, so it'll arrive tomorrow. I always thought Monoprice was best, but Monoprice was 17$ + like 6$ 3-5 day shipping.

Might not need it, might.

---------------


As for how they sound - Well, it's hard to tell right away. What I DO notice though is, I have no Subwoofer...but I have bass. I mean my desk had a tiny bit of hum...I had to go check my old subwoofer, which is unplugged, a kind of "huh?" moment.

----------------------------------


I plugged it in via HDMI from my Video Card to the Receiver. However, I'm wondering if Optical to my Soundcard would be Superior, as the Soundcard is well, designed for this kind of thing and overall I like the features that come with it; but perhaps the Receiver has all that and more and no need for the sound card.

----

My main issue right now is...no setup menu. Will not display. I thought that plugging it into my Graphics card like this would allow the menu to display...but it seems that is not going to happen.

Which makes well, adjusting things...rather difficult, such as running Audessy, adjusting Db's and setting other things.

I'm asking around on my PC forums I visit. I'm worried that I'd have to connect the "Out" into my monitor or something...but my monitor is DVI...no HDMI ports...I could use a converter..

But is there really no way to get the display menu, hooked up to my NVIDIA card?

Odd part is, it detects the Denon has a "TV", i.e, now my control panel shows two monitors and the Denon is one.

Which is why I thought I could get the menu to display. Maybe you guys aren't big into PC's and can't answer, but I figured I'd try.

Thanks.

 

[jonnythan]

The port on your nVidia card is video output. Not input.

The port on the receiver your nVidia card is attached to is an input port.

Video is going from the graphics card to your receiver.

The receiver does not output video over an input port.

To see the on-screen display from the receiver you need to plug its video output port into a display device like a monitor or TV.

Instead of plugging two HDMI devices into your graphics card (and thus your computer thinking you're running two monitors), plug the graphics card into the receiver's input and the monitor to the receiver's output. That way you have all information going to to the monitor from and through the receiver and you will have proper video overlay, only one cable, etc.

 

[Mkilbride]

The port on your nVidia card is video output. Not input.

The port on the receiver your nVidia card is attached to is an input port.

Video is going from the graphics card to your receiver.

The receiver does not output video over an input port.

To see the on-screen display from the receiver you need to plug its video output port into a display device like a monitor or TV.

Instead of plugging two HDMI devices into your graphics card (and thus your computer thinking you're running two monitors), plug the graphics card into the receiver's input and the monitor to the receiver's output. That way you have all information going to to the monitor from and through the receiver and you will have proper video overlay, only one cable, etc.

Ok, then I need to get a HDMI to DVI Adapter.

No stores really stock those and online orders are all 3-5 days. Sucks...guess I'll have it uncalibrated for a week or so.

But would that work? I mean I know the Adapter works, but would that properly output it?

Also, my monitor is 1920 x 1200, the max resolution these support is 1080, it's not going to force that resolution, is it? If I select it as my only monitor in NVCP, it forces 1080p.

That's unacceptable if that's the way it is.

Or this?

I wonder...

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-Adapter-Cable-Meters/dp/B001TH7T2U/ref=pd_cp_e_0

Amazon can over-night that for only 4$ and I'd rather have it now, than next week.

---------------------

So basically, I plug that HDMI into the Output of the Receiver, the the DVI end to my Monitor...and the HDMI output from my graphics card, to my HDMI input on the receiver.

And that'd work?

This comment worries me though:

Audio will need to be transmitted through a separate audio cable(s) or through a fiber-optic (Toslink) cable as the DVI connector of this cable is not fitted for audio capability.

 

[jonnythan]

HDMI and DVI are 100% electrically compatible. The pins on DVI map perfectly to HDMI.

HDMI and DVI are basically the exact same thing, but HDMI has some extra pins for audio and whatnot.

But yes, DVI does not support audio. You will need to hook a separate audio cable, such as optical, from the PC to the receiver.

HDMI supports 1900x1200 just fine. I'm not 100% sure whether the Denon will be entirely happy with it. I suspect it will but can't be certain. If it doesn't, you'll just have to connect the PC directly to the monitor instead, using optical for audio to the receiver. You can also connect the receiver to the monitor as well. Then you can switch the monitor over to the other input to access the on screen menus.

 

[Mkilbride]

I have a Toslink cable and have it hooked up to my sound card and that works a well, though with a bit of figuring, I only get 2.0, or Stereo via Toslink, unless I enable Dolby Digital Live, which makes stuff 5.1 and it sounds good.

And my PC is connected directly to the monitor.

Is there any way I could get the GUI without purchasing additional stuff? I don't see how though.



For me to connect the Receiver to the monitor, I'd need that HDMI to DVI cable, would the one I linked work for the purpose we're after? Thanks.

 

[jonnythan]

I have a Toslink cable and have it hooked up to my sound card and that works a well, though with a bit of figuring, I only get 2.0, or Stereo via Toslink, unless I enable Dolby Digital Live, which makes stuff 5.1 and it sounds good.

And my PC is connected directly to the monitor.

Is there any way I could get the GUI without purchasing additional stuff? I don't see how though.



For me to connect the Receiver to the monitor, I'd need that HDMI to DVI cable, would the one I linked work for the purpose we're after? Thanks.

To get the GUI, you need the receiver HDMI output plugged into a display device.

 

[Mkilbride]

Gotcha.

So this cable should do the trick

Plug the HDMI into the receiver, then the DVI into my monitor?

Amazon.com: 15ft Premium HDMI to DVI Cable: Electronics

Can have it by tomorrow if I order really soon.

 

[jonnythan]

100' for $10? Is that 100% copper, or CCA? I'd be astonished if you got 100' of 16+ gauge 100% copper cable for $10.

 

[Mkilbride]

Amazon.com: RCA AH16100SN 100 Ft. 16-Gauge Speaker Wire: Electronics

I dunno, it seemed like a good deal and I might need more in the future, was that bad?

But can you please comment on the above HDMI to DVI cable, will it work? Or do you at least believe it will?

Would this be the best wire to get instead?

http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Copper-Bright-0-0508-Diameter/dp/B003HGHQQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1337263168&sr=1-2

I cancelled my order just in case. IT looks like I'll have enough room regardless, but in the future, I know now, no CCA.

Thanks for that.

Now bout the HDMI?>

 

[jonnythan]

Ah, that's CCA, or copper-clad aluminum. That's why the Monoprice wire costs more - it's 100% copper. The wire you bought is like 90% aluminum. Copper is much more expensive than aluminum and is a much better conductor. I would not use CCA for my speakers. You probably won't be able to tell the difference though.

The HDMI-DVI cable should work fine.