Photography related discussions

[Highlander]

MidnightSensi2,

In my opinion you can expect to obtain clean, essentially noise-free images up to ISO 1600. This ties in nicely with dpreview's review which suggests ISO 3200. While it is clearly impossible to know at this time just how dimly lit the venue will be, it is not unreasonable to expect your images to be made at around ISO 800 to ISO 3200, so good news there.

Any tips on shooting at night? Especially people...I was thinking of setting my ISO on auto, using Aperature Priority?

1. Auto-ISO used in conjunction with Aperture Priority at, likely, maximum aperture is the way to go. Consequently, use your fastest lens(es).

2. Where possible use your surroundings like a guard rail or balcony to hold the camera as steady as possible when shooting.

3. Use Continuous autofocus because your subject (people) will rarely be stationary (except perhaps at the end of the evening ). Consequently, take a spare battery if you have one.

4. If your lens has Image Stabilisation switch it off, as the mechanism normally requires approximately 1 second to stabilise before a sharp image can be made.

5. Use a flash if you have one, where using it will have a positive effect and, if it is not a private party, if you are permitted (check with the venue for indoor photography - outdoor photography is not likely to be a problem).

6. Use centre weighted or spot metering in preference to matrix metering, or you may end up only with silhouettes of people in your images.

7. Shoot RAW if possible for added security in potentially 'rescuing' images later.

The Tripod I'm going to use for some wider shots of equipment and /try/ to get some long exposure shots with people blurring across the scene.

You will need to experiment with shutter speed (Shutter Priority) as the correct setting to achieve the degree of blur you desire will be a function of focal length and subject speed. The wider the angle of view, the slower the shutter speed required. The faster the subject movement, the faster the shutter speed required. As an approximate range, you are likely to be looking at 1/4s to 2s or 3s, possibly 5s. If you leave the shutter open long enough (bulb setting) you can even make everyone disappear.

...kinda nervous and way over my head, but they don't want to pay for a pro.

If your employer is unwilling to hire a Professional photographer then they should be realistic in their expectation. It's a party, so after a short space of time everyone will be, um, 'refreshed' and increasingly loosen up. Virtually everyone will be keen to have their photo taken individually or in a group...especially the ladies. Relax and enjoy your role - you will be the envy of all the males.

Hope this helps.

 

[CaliHwyPatrol]

you will be the envy of all the males.

Having shot a number of bikini contests, I can't tell you how true this is. That Canon is a bigger chick magnet than anything any of the chumps around can muster up. Since buying that camera, I don't even have to try anymore. Fishing with dynamite.

Adobe Lightroom 3 has some good post processing stuff for removing the grain produced by shooting at higher ISOs.

An external flash can save your life shooting at night. You can bounce it off the walls and get your shot while still retaining a more natural light look. That picture I took of my Hoya lens filter box a few posts back in this thread was done with my external flash, bouncing it off the wall behind me. Plus, having a big ole fuggin flash on there makes you look more official.

 

[DTS]

For what its worth...This was taken with my Nikon D300s w/50mm 1.4D @ 80th of a sec @f3.5 @ iso4000....there was no post processing.

 

[MidnightSensi2]

What lenses do you have to choose from? Can you use/do you have a flash?

I have a Canon EF 24-105mm 1:4 L USM zoom lens. It has auto-stabilization. I also have a 50mm prime.

I have a Canon Speedlite 580EXII flash with a Gary Fong light diffuser on it.

MidnightSensi2,

In my opinion you can expect to obtain clean, essentially noise-free images up to ISO 1600. This ties in nicely with dpreview's review which suggests ISO 3200. While it is clearly impossible to know at this time just how dimly lit the venue will be, it is not unreasonable to expect your images to be made at around ISO 800 to ISO 3200, so good news there.



1. Auto-ISO used in conjunction with Aperture Priority at, likely, maximum aperture is the way to go. Consequently, use your fastest lens(es).

2. Where possible use your surroundings like a guard rail or balcony to hold the camera as steady as possible when shooting.

3. Use Continuous autofocus because your subject (people) will rarely be stationary (except perhaps at the end of the evening ). Consequently, take a spare battery if you have one.

4. If your lens has Image Stabilisation switch it off, as the mechanism normally requires approximately 1 second to stabilise before a sharp image can be made.

5. Use a flash if you have one, where using it will have a positive effect and, if it is not a private party, if you are permitted (check with the venue for indoor photography - outdoor photography is not likely to be a problem).

6. Use centre weighted or spot metering in preference to matrix metering, or you may end up only with silhouettes of people in your images.

7. Shoot RAW if possible for added security in potentially 'rescuing' images later.



You will need to experiment with shutter speed (Shutter Priority) as the correct setting to achieve the degree of blur you desire will be a function of focal length and subject speed. The wider the angle of view, the slower the shutter speed required. The faster the subject movement, the faster the shutter speed required. As an approximate range, you are likely to be looking at 1/4s to 2s or 3s, possibly 5s. If you leave the shutter open long enough (bulb setting) you can even make everyone disappear.



If your employer is unwilling to hire a Professional photographer then they should be realistic in their expectation. It's a party, so after a short space of time everyone will be, um, 'refreshed' and increasingly loosen up. Virtually everyone will be keen to have their photo taken individually or in a group...especially the ladies. Relax and enjoy your role - you will be the envy of all the males.

Hope this helps.

Having shot a number of bikini contests, I can't tell you how true this is. That Canon is a bigger chick magnet than anything any of the chumps around can muster up. Since buying that camera, I don't even have to try anymore. Fishing with dynamite.

Adobe Lightroom 3 has some good post processing stuff for removing the grain produced by shooting at higher ISOs.

An external flash can save your life shooting at night. You can bounce it off the walls and get your shot while still retaining a more natural light look. That picture I took of my Hoya lens filter box a few posts back in this thread was done with my external flash, bouncing it off the wall behind me. Plus, having a big ole fuggin flash on there makes you look more official.

Cheers to you all for the advice!

As far as post processing it, I have Lightroom and Photoshop CS5. I think the best thing CS5 has improved is the noise reduction and HDR processing, so, hopefully that will help me out!

You guys are right about the girls, I have shot some parties before, but just for fun, and I did notice the ladies flock to the camera. Especially with the 5D loaded with a big flash and that diffuser on it. Looks like I know what I'm doing with it.

To get more natural light with the flash I have been using a Gary Fong, and it works soooo well.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/526348-REG/Gary_Fong_LSU_CLOUD_Lightsphere_Universal_Inverted.html

A photographer friend recommended it, and it has really helped a lot. It's sorta expensive for what it is.

I leave Wednesday for this party weekend, so, I'll be sure to take extra batteries, chargers, extra chips and so on.

Thanks again for the advice guys, I'll let ya know how it goes!!!

 

[MidnightSensi2]

I had today off, and it was cloudy, so I shot some HDR black and whites since the light is so soft. Well, actually I shot in color with RAW and then later converted them to black and white.

I broke the rule of thirds for the skyline... but the clouds were so cool this morning. They kinda had that earie look (which I like).

 

[erry2010]

camera an IP camera are difference.i want to find a better IP camera for our company.but for myself,i need a camera .lol. if you know which camera is good,tell me plz.

 

[Highlander]

MidnightSensi2,

As far as post processing it, I have Lightroom and Photoshop CS5. I think the best thing CS5 has improved is the noise reduction and HDR processing, so, hopefully that will help me out!

The HDR process introduces noise over and above any noise in the source images. Therefore, image(s) intended for HDR processing should ideally always be shot at base (lowest) ISO because this minimises noise in the source images.

Unfortunately you are unlikely to be shooting anywhere near base ISO due to low light level. Therefore, expect images with pronounced noise. Additionally, if combining more than one image for 'true' HDR (as opposed to 'quasi' HDR from a single image) it is likely that you will obtain ghosting of people.

Just a 'heads-up' in the event that you were unaware.

 

[Audioholics]

I broke the rule of thirds for the skyline... but the clouds were so cool this morning

I love clouds, you can do so many things to them...

 

[MidnightSensi2]

MidnightSensi2,



The HDR process introduces noise over and above any noise in the source images. Therefore, image(s) intended for HDR processing should ideally always be shot at base (lowest) ISO because this minimises noise in the source images.

Unfortunately you are unlikely to be shooting anywhere near base ISO due to low light level. Therefore, expect images with pronounced noise. Additionally, if combining more than one image for 'true' HDR (as opposed to 'quasi' HDR from a single image) it is likely that you will obtain ghosting of people.

Just a 'heads-up' in the event that you were unaware.

Cheers! Yeah, those were taken during the day. Wouldn't want to try that at night. Plus I'm not sure HDR would really work that well at night since its kind of a high contrast sort of thing...maybe in Vegas or something with lots of lights?

...

Shoot went really good, and I had fun...which was nice for work! I shot mostly people, since it was so crowded, kept my iso low and used the flash to my advantage. With f/4 and maybe like 1/125 shutter speed and the speedlight with the gary fong diffuser on it, it gave some nice people shots and darkened the background giving them a pretty cool look.


I think my next purchase is going to be another flash and a better tripod. I'll use my current tripod to hold the off camera flash. Maybe some ND filters for daytime shooting?

I love clouds, you can do so many things to them...

Yeah, me too. I sort of want to get some wide angle glass to give that look of movement around the edges, but for an L lens like my 24-105mm zoom in a wide angle its lots of cheese for something I might not use that often.... kinda inbetween on that.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

observation

just as a side observation - In one of latest Energizer AA batteries commercials
cute girl makes group photo of bunch of forest animals.

The idea is how energizer batteries last longer and "help save the environment" ?

it's all cute of-course, except it's been a while since last time I seen DSLR running on AA's

Extra points for correctly recognizing model number

 

[MidnightSensi2]

Firmware update out for 7D owners.

Canon is offering a 100 locking mode dial for 5 and 7D's...
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_7d?pageKeyCode=prdAdvDetail&docId=0901e02480245968

Not sure I really ever felt the need for that....but, I guess someone did.

...

Oh, Adobe CS5 has a pretty big update out. Lots of little things.

just as a side observation - In one of latest Energizer AA batteries commercials
cute girl makes group photo of bunch of forest animals.

The idea is how energizer batteries last longer and "help save the environment" ?

it's all cute of-course, except it's been a while since last time I seen DSLR running on AA's

Extra points for correctly recognizing model number

My 580EX flash runs on AAs....but not for long..muahahahhaha. Then I toss the deads on the street (j/k)

 

[Nemo128]

Lens Help

Hey photography friends,

I'm looking for a lens to get the wife this XMas. Here's what I'm trying to achieve:

1. Beyond 50mm zoom with a good end focus length (200-300 perhaps)
2. Full time manual!
3. Best possible image quality in moderate to high light (f3.5-4 maybe)
4. Trying to stay under $500 new if possible

She currently has a 50mm prime and I am looking into getting the Canon 10-22. Since it's going to cost me a pretty penny (unless you guys have cheaper comparable alternatives), I'd like to not spend too much on the zoom.

She uses a Canon T1i.

Thanks!

 

[CaliHwyPatrol]

Hey photography friends,

I'm looking for a lens to get the wife this XMas. Here's what I'm trying to achieve:

1. Beyond 50mm zoom with a good end focus length (200-300 perhaps)
2. Full time manual!
3. Best possible image quality in moderate to high light (f3.5-4 maybe)
4. Trying to stay under $500 new if possible

She currently has a 50mm prime and I am looking into getting the Canon 10-22. Since it's going to cost me a pretty penny (unless you guys have cheaper comparable alternatives), I'd like to not spend too much on the zoom.

She uses a Canon T1i.

Thanks!

The faster lenses are where you're really going to see the price jump. I think the best one in your budget would be this:

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS

A friend of mine has that lens and I've used it on my T1i with good results.

A little out of your budget, but not by far, would be this:

Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM

It doesn't have the same zoom range, but is a faster lens, as well as being an L series.

I'd personally take the L glass over the farther zoom, but you're going to be out of your budget a bit. Hopefully that at least narrows it down for you.

 

[Nemo128]

Both good ideas, I notice the cheaper one doesn't have full time manual focus. I'd really like to get her one that she won't have to worry about switching to manual mode with.

Any 3rd party alternatives that are good? A Tamron or Sigma perhaps?

That 10-22 is a little over $700, that's what's hurting the budget for the zoom so much.

 

[CaliHwyPatrol]

Both good ideas, I notice the cheaper one doesn't have full time manual focus. I'd really like to get her one that she won't have to worry about switching to manual mode with.

Any 3rd party alternatives that are good? A Tamron or Sigma perhaps?

That 10-22 is a little over $700, that's what's hurting the budget for the zoom so much.

What do you mean full-time? There's a switch on the side of the lens that lets you choose auto or manual focus. If you leave it in manual, you'll always be manually focusing. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean?

I know of the 10-22. I thought about getting it, but went with the 24-70 f2.8 instead, since I couldn't really justify needing a zoom that wide. Now that I've gotten my first L series, I'll probably never get anything else. That comes with a price though haha.

About the 3rd party... I'm too paranoid to buy anything but Canon, so I couldn't tell you if they'd be any good.

 

[Nemo128]

Full time manual focus lenses don't require switching to MF from AF mode. It's good for fast shooting to get a good general focus that you can fine tune quickly and easily. It mechanically prevents damage to the motor when the focus ring is used while the AF system is enabled.

The 10-22 does it, the more expensive lenses usually do. It's great for taking pictures of moving targets, but more of a nice-to-have.

 

[mike c]

for a t1i ... i'd maybe pick the bang for the buck 55-250 over the 70-300 (non L) IS

though getting the 1k 70-200 f/4 IS would pretty much be a lifetime investment.

 

[Nemo128]

Since it seems she's not concerned at all with telephoto zoom but wants a good landscape lens, I'm getting either the 10-22 or the 15-85 and calling it a day. I can get her a telephoto zoom for another holiday or something.

 

[Highlander]

...I'm getting either the 10-22 or the 15-85 and calling it a day.

If it were me, I would choose the 15-85mm without question. It has a far more usable focal range, would allow you to claw back some money from reselling the 50mm prime (if you so choose) but crucially is still easily wide enough for the overwhelming majority of landscape images. In my opinion the 10-15mm focal range of the 10-22mm lens, which falls within the classification of extreme wideangle (assuming the lens and body are both designed for a cropped sensor or both designed for a full frame sensor), would very rarely be used, even for landscape photography.

Food for thought.

Cheers,

 

[Nemo128]

I'm leaning towards the 15-85 right now. All boils down to pricing.

She won't sell the 50mm, she loves the low f on that one (1.8). It's worked phenomenally for low light portrait shots.