Can't find a subsonic subwoofer Driver!

R

riverwolf

Audioholic Intern
I have the greater confidence in Box Pro. The model from the numbers imported from the data base clearly show xmax limitations starting just below 45 Hz. The maximum electronic power curve clearly shows this driver maxed by 12 watts at 20 Hz. And frankly that is what you would expect of a highly compliant suspension in a relatively large box. The graphs looked like I expected from the T/S parameters.
Where are you getting the 1259 T/S numbers from? Clearly, 12 watts for 13mm of Xmax at 20Hz seems quite absurd. In addition to the 3.3 speaker, the 1259 was also used in the NHT SW3 subwoofer, which was offered with a companion 250 watt amp. Seems like NHT would have been experiencing nearly 100% warranty claims if your model is accurate.

-Brent
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Where are you getting the 1259 T/S numbers from? Clearly, 12 watts for 13mm of Xmax at 20Hz seems quite absurd. In addition to the 3.3 speaker, the 1259 was also used in the NHT SW3 subwoofer, which was offered with a companion 250 watt amp. Seems like NHT would have been experiencing nearly 100% warranty claims if your model is accurate.

-Brent
I imported the specs directly from the data base in Box Pro. Usually that data base is accurate, but may be in this case not. However sub driver technology has improved by leaps and bounds since then and may be they had a subsonic filter built into the amp. However for a very loose suspension like that there is not much spring pressure from a box of that volume, so I'm not surprised by the result.

I know a guy who used that driver quite some years age as the bass end of a two JW Modules crossed around 500 Hz in MTM configuration with a tweeter. It was before the HT craze, and he said he was very pleased with the driver.

However those are the days before HT and the sort of power that driver handles below 30 Hz would be plenty and work well before the advent of the LFE channel. When you look at the frequency power band meter, in music there is very little power below 45 Hz. I suspect the advent of the LFE channel has something to do with the drivers disappearance. But who knows? Hollywood has changed the whole frequency power band spectrum you have to design for. In many ways that is a raw deal for music systems, at least from a cost performance stand point.
 
gregz

gregz

Full Audioholic
Good discussions going on here, along with a lead on direct replacements for the original NHT's! I ordered my first 1259 from Madisound, so it may well have been the clone version. In a sealed box design, close enough is usually good enough.

As far as my system architecture, I've very recently changed out my single amp setup with passive crossovers for a bi-amp setup with an active crossover (Behringer CX2310). The 2-way bookshelf speakers are NHT Super Ones being run direct, sitting atop two woofers crossed over at around 100 - 110 Hz, providing overlap in the NHT low end. As this arrangement is recent, I'm still messing around with the crossover point and level matching.

My thread title is a little misleading - my goal is to reproduce frequencies competently in-room down into the 30's and upper 20's. But to do that without eq correction, I typically need a subwoofer with a subsonic free air resonance. Like the NHT.

My system pulls double duty for music as well as movies (and more recently games). My expectations are fidelity first and forememost, followed by low muscial bass response as I listen to QUITE an eclectic range of music, much of which has content down into the 30's. My design with an f3 of 27Hz meshes quite well with my system goals without the need to add an eq to my system.

For the most part it's only home movies and silly bass CD's that get lower than the 30's, at which point I believe two NHT's working with 13mm are in the vacinity of one sunfire working with 26mm, a reference that is none too shabby at 25Hz and above.

***edit: I forgot to mention that my HT needs are still the same ones from 10 years ago, as my Behringer allows me to cut LF below 25Hz, giving me immunity to Hollywood raising the ante.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Good discussions going on here, along with a lead on direct replacements for the original NHT's! I ordered my first 1259 from Madisound, so it may well have been the clone version. In a sealed box design, close enough is usually good enough.

As far as my system architecture, I've very recently changed out my single amp setup with passive crossovers for a bi-amp setup with an active crossover (Behringer CX2310). The 2-way bookshelf speakers are NHT Super Ones being run direct, sitting atop two woofers crossed over at around 100 - 110 Hz, providing overlap in the NHT low end. As this arrangement is recent, I'm still messing around with the crossover point and level matching.

My thread title is a little misleading - my goal is to reproduce frequencies competently in-room down into the 30's and upper 20's. But to do that without eq correction, I typically need a subwoofer with a subsonic free air resonance. Like the NHT.

My system pulls double duty for music as well as movies (and more recently games). My expectations are fidelity first and forememost, followed by low muscial bass response as I listen to QUITE an eclectic range of music, much of which has content down into the 30's. My design with an f3 of 27Hz meshes quite well with my system goals without the need to add an eq to my system.

For the most part it's only home movies and silly bass CD's that get lower than the 30's, at which point I believe two NHT's working with 13mm are in the vacinity of one sunfire working with 26mm, a reference that is none too shabby at 25Hz and above.

***edit: I forgot to mention that my HT needs are still the same ones from 10 years ago, as my Behringer allows me to cut LF below 25Hz, giving me immunity to Hollywood raising the ante.
If you want sealed without Eq to meet your specification then you had better pick up the NHT drivers on offer. To meet your requirements with current drivers you will have to add some Eq. If you don't want to Eq the bass then you will have to consider an alignment other that sealed. I don't see other options for you at this point.

The Sunfire is a poor comparison, you can get them to bottom out with no trouble at all.

I still would like to know why you are against Eq if you want to go sealed, and why if you don't want Eq you won't consider alignments other than sealed? Seems to me you are constructing yourself a very tight straight jacket from which there is no escape. I ask this in all sincerity, since I have a feeling there are some misconceptions here about setting appropriate design parameters for your project.
 
gregz

gregz

Full Audioholic
If you want sealed without Eq to meet your specification then you had better pick up the NHT drivers on offer. To meet your requirements with current drivers you will have to add some Eq. If you don't want to Eq the bass then you will have to consider an alignment other that sealed. I don't see other options for you at this point.

The Sunfire is a poor comparison, you can get them to bottom out with no trouble at all.

I still would like to know why you are against Eq if you want to go sealed, and why if you don't want Eq you won't consider alignments other than sealed? Seems to me you are constructing yourself a very tight straight jacket from which there is no escape. I ask this in all sincerity, since I have a feeling there are some misconceptions here about setting appropriate design parameters for your project.
By all means ask; I'm out here on the forum to get input and informaton, so I appreciate you taking the time to do so.

I agree that if my NHT offer falls through and I'm left to current drivers, then something has to give. I had already modeled a few prospective subs to 4th order ported designs that would give me a box q of 0.7 in 3.5 cu ft with an f3 of 20Hz. That meets my frequency response criteria, and would require only adding a port to the existing boxes. I've also looked into partitioning my existing enclosures and running a modern sub with eq correction for LF. The third non-NHT alternative is to run my old JL W1 with its f3 of 35Hz and call it good enough, accepting a less than stellar upper 20's response.

It's easy to explain why I'm reluctant to eq. I don't have one, and don't want to add it if I don't have to. Doesn't mean I won't, it's just not my primary option at the moment.

Ported: This one may be in the category of misconceptions you alluded to. I believe a critically damped sealed enclosure sounds better than any of the ported alignments. I'm aware that some disagree (the Exodus app notes, the "subwoofer myths" link on Annunaki's signature), but my beliefs are based on the larger body of what I've read, in combination with my own empirical observations. That doesn't make it so, but I definitely have a bias.

The subwoofer myths article pointed out that the properly tuned port limits cone movement at that tuning frequency much more than a sealed enclosure does, and I buy that. And I have a subsonic filter, so I'm not worried about the loss of damping below that frequency. But what about the next octave above the tuning frequency, where the speaker and port go in phase and cone movement rises ? Could it be that I'm hearing the looser, undamped band near 30Hz on a vented design that's otherwise well controlled above and below that notch? What's your take?
 
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R

riverwolf

Audioholic Intern
I imported the specs directly from the data base in Box Pro. Usually that data base is accurate, but may be in this case not. However sub driver technology has improved by leaps and bounds since then and may be they had a subsonic filter built into the amp. However for a very loose suspension like that there is not much spring pressure from a box of that volume, so I'm not surprised by the result.

I know a guy who used that driver quite some years age as the bass end of a two JW Modules crossed around 500 Hz in MTM configuration with a tweeter. It was before the HT craze, and he said he was very pleased with the driver.

However those are the days before HT and the sort of power that driver handles below 30 Hz would be plenty and work well before the advent of the LFE channel. When you look at the frequency power band meter, in music there is very little power below 45 Hz. I suspect the advent of the LFE channel has something to do with the drivers disappearance. But who knows? Hollywood has changed the whole frequency power band spectrum you have to design for. In many ways that is a raw deal for music systems, at least from a cost performance stand point.
There has to be something off in BassBox's 1259 specs. The formulas used to build the sims in BassBox, WinISD, Unibox, PerfectBox, etc. are all readily available. I've never seen anyone definitively prove that one program was more or less accurate than any other when doing basic subwoofer design along the lines of this discussion. I would expect most any midwoofer of at least 6" and maybe as small as 4" to safely handle 12 watts at 20Hz without making bad noises...let alone a 12" with 13mm one way.

LFE/HT really had nothing to do with the 1259 going out of favor, per se, IMO. As Greg mentions, he bought the Madi clone about 5 years ago so it's only become unavailable fairly recently. IIRC, one or more of the soft parts became unobtanium, which caused Madi to no longer offer it. I don't remember when NHT stopped using the 12" version, but the motor was still in use by their current 10" designs until the NHT "reboot" a couple of years ago.

The 1259 does require a relatively large box for that extension. As you say, the same performance can be obtained today using higher excursion drivers in 1/3 the box, at the expense of more power and possibly some EQ. Probably the driving factor for going to today's super stiff suspensions. Even in its day, nothing really compared to the 1259 in design. Audio Concepts' DV12 was probably the closest, but needed an even larger box for the same Q and f3 and it still only had 9-10mm of Xmax (still got a couple of those in my parts closet, too).

As I said, I lived with a pair of 1259s as my primary subs in a dedicated theater room up until 5-6 years ago and I've been doing DVD/5.1 since 1998ish. My 1259s were no stranger to Hollywood's most demanding soundtracks up to that point as I'll never be accused of being an artsy film kind of guy. Mine measured flat to 20ish Hz in several different rooms during their active life. Using displacement, a single is good for 97dB anechoic at 20 Hz, whether it needs 12 watts or 130 to do it. ;-) Add a little room gain and 90% of the listening public would be more than satisfied with that level of performance. However, brand X that only has a 1 ft^3 cabinet will easily outsell it with a 40Hz tuning and no output at all below 30Hz...sounds more impressive in the showroom and is easier to place in the home decor.

Regarding the NHT sub amp...it's spec'd with a -3 point of 10Hz. The amp was sold separately from the sub to potentially be paired with any passive subwoofer one chose...there were plenty on the market in the mid '90s. There's nothing in the literature to suggest any filter or EQ beyond probably a fixed low pass somewhere above and in addition to the the user adjustable lowpass.

-Brent
 
R

riverwolf

Audioholic Intern
By all means ask; I'm out here on the forum to get input and informaton, so I appreciate you taking the time to do so.

I agree that if my NHT offer falls through and I'm left to current drivers, then something has to give. I had already modeled a few prospective subs to 4th order ported designs that would give me a box q of 0.7 in 3.5 cu ft with an f3 of 20Hz. That meets my frequency response criteria, and would require only adding a port to the existing boxes. I've also looked into partitioning my existing enclosures and running a modern sub with eq correction for LF. The third non-NHT alternative is to run my old JL W1 with its f3 of 35Hz and call it good enough, accepting a less than stellar upper 20's response.

It's easy to explain why I'm reluctant to eq. I don't have one, and don't want to add it if I don't have to. Doesn't mean I won't, it's just not my primary option at the moment.

Ported: This one may be in the category of misconceptions you alluded to. I believe a critically damped sealed enclosure sounds better than any of the ported alignments. I'm aware that some disagree (the Exodus app notes, the "subwoofer myths" link on Annunaki's signature), but my beliefs are based on the larger body of what I've read, in combination with my own empirical observations. That doesn't make it so, but I definitely have a bias.

The subwoofer myths article pointed out that the properly tuned port limits cone movement at that tuning frequency much more than a sealed enclosure does, and I buy that. And I have a subsonic filter, so I'm not worried about the loss of damping below that frequency. But what about the next octave above the tuning frequency, where the speaker and port go in phase and cone movement rises ? Could it be that I'm hearing the looser, undamped band near 30Hz on a vented design that's otherwise well controlled above and below that notch? What's your take?
Filler post so I can respond to your PM...apologies if there's a post padding thread somewhere that I missed.

-Brent
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
By all means ask; I'm out here on the forum to get input and informaton, so I appreciate you taking the time to do so.

I agree that if my NHT offer falls through and I'm left to current drivers, then something has to give. I had already modeled a few prospective subs to 4th order ported designs that would give me a box q of 0.7 in 3.5 cu ft with an f3 of 20Hz. That meets my frequency response criteria, and would require only adding a port to the existing boxes. I've also looked into partitioning my existing enclosures and running a modern sub with eq correction for LF. The third non-NHT alternative is to run my old JL W1 with its f3 of 35Hz and call it good enough, accepting a less than stellar upper 20's response.

It's easy to explain why I'm reluctant to eq. I don't have one, and don't want to add it if I don't have to. Doesn't mean I won't, it's just not my primary option at the moment.

Ported: This one may be in the category of misconceptions you alluded to. I believe a critically damped sealed enclosure sounds better than any of the ported alignments. I'm aware that some disagree (the Exodus app notes, the "subwoofer myths" link on Annunaki's signature), but my beliefs are based on the larger body of what I've read, in combination with my own empirical observations. That doesn't make it so, but I definitely have a bias.

The subwoofer myths article pointed out that the properly tuned port limits cone movement at that tuning frequency much more than a sealed enclosure does, and I buy that. And I have a subsonic filter, so I'm not worried about the loss of damping below that frequency. But what about the next octave above the tuning frequency, where the speaker and port go in phase and cone movement rises ? Could it be that I'm hearing the looser, undamped band near 30Hz on a vented design that's otherwise well controlled above and below that notch? What's your take?
Thank you for your detailed and honest reply.

Now this is where things get difficult. I will take the ported issue first. Ported enclosures seem to satisfy a very large number of people, but clearly they don't entirely satisfy you. Well they don't satisfy me either.

I think it comes down to a matter of total system Qt. It is a very widely held belief indeed that the quality of the system resonance leads to an optimal total system Q of 0.7. That's too high, I think and not natural.

Now we get into the genre of music debate. There is music of natural instruments and music that has no existence without a loudspeaker and everything in between that has varying degrees of dependence on loudspeakers. I would concede that it may be that resonant reproduction has been round so long that it is in many peoples musical memories and part of their expectation. That embellishment by the speaker is part of the intended presentation.

But what about the reproduction of natural instruments and compositions that long proceed the era of reproduced sound?

I have worked with musicians who know the sound of their instruments, recorded them and attend concerts and the opera house regularly. I can be certain a Qt of 0.7 does not give rise to natural reproduction and that Qt 0.5 is much nearer the mark. In other words reproduction systems must be essentially non resonant and that a Qb4 box can never be!

Further the port assists the woofer over a very narrow frequency range and in general has a different quality to the sound emitted from the cone. I'm conscious of that port kick in of ported Qb4 boxes, even such highly regarded speakers as the B & W 200D.

So what are the alternatives.

The sealed enclosures can be made essentially non resonant. However the air volume in the box needs to be small enough to properly react against the cone and control movement, especially as the suspension needs to be highly compliant and the air in the box provide the principle restoring force. The drive motor needs large excursion as only the cone can radiate sound energy. A loudspeaker cone is very inefficient at coupling to the room. The roll off will of necessity in such a system start significantly above the free air resonance of the driver at 12 db per octave. However since the driver does not decouple from the box because of the restoring force of the air in the box, Eq can be applied as long as the motor system allows for sufficient linear travel.

So yes, equalization is an essential part of a well designed sealed alignment. This also demands very large amplifier power for high spl in the last octave. This makes for what I call a brute force approach, but probably the only feasible solution where space is at a premium.

Next get rid of the box! Open backed dipole systems are favored by some. However the cone is never coupled to a box. Because of cancellation loses and reinforcement complicated equalization has to be provided. Large cone excursions are again called for and the only restoring force is the driver suspension. As you would expect distortion is significant, but there is no box resonance. I don't want to suggest that these systems can not be accomplished, but by getting rid of the box you have a whole lot of other issues to confront.

Infinite baffle. The problem here is you need a huge space in your house not needed for much else than to provide a non resonant cavity behind speakers that is large enough to not have a Vb in audio range. It creates the effect of the rear of the cone radiating into free space cut off from the front of the cone. Multiple large drivers are required and again the restoring force is provided entirely by the driver suspension. If you have the right situation and enough of the right drivers, this solution can work very well, but for most it is impractical.

Horns. A horn is the most efficient acoustic transformer of all. Pressure is very high behind the cone, and cone excursion highly controlled. In addition efficient low Qts with high flux density magnet systems can be used. Individuals like Dr Bruce Edgar now have good mathematical models for horn design to minimize coloration that has plagued horn systems. Bass extension is determined by the width of the horn mouth, so for reproduction of the last octave horns are large.

Now to pipes. Pipes were first used to load speakers by Paul Voight seventy or so years ago. The type of pipe used for loading speakers is the closed (one end) pipe, otherwise known as a Gedeckt pipe. The length of the pipe is one half wave length. In addition to the fundamental there will be odd order harmonics generated, no even harmonics. Odd order harmonics are not pleasing to the ear, so at first site this is not a promising system.

However if the driver is placed at a the point of the first node of pressure of the third harmonic, then harmonic generation is to a large degree suppressed.
This point is about 1/4 to 1/3 the pipe length from the close end. Now a pipe has an anti node of pressure at the closed end and a node of displacement at the closed end, a node of pressure and an anti node of displacement at the open end. So there is high pressure at the speaker location, which makes for excellent control of driver excursion.

Now if the pipe is tapered we can broaden the frequency over which the driver is assisted to about 1.5 octaves.

Now an undamped pipe is resonant. It has two peaks of impedance just like a Qb4 box, but port output is high. Fp is obviously determined by pipe length and has to be related to driver F3. Now there is a lot of similarity with a Qb4 box, in that the pipe volume is related to driver VAS. However a pipe can be critically damped without totally suppressing pipe output, although it will be reduced compared to an undamped pipe. The trick is to damp the pipe by stuffing it to the point where you just get one peak of impedance like a sealed enclosure. At that point Qt is around 0.5 roll off 12 db per octave within driver excursion limits.

So where is the snag. It is size. A transmission line pipe designed to reproduce the last octave is a large structure taking up a lot of real estate, so we return to practicality issues. You can see this from my pictures in my signature. Those speakers are dual lines tuned about one half octave apart, resulting in very smooth driver support from 20 to 100 Hz.

For me the result is entirely worth it to have typms, bass strings, bassoons, piano and organ pipes sound just as they should.

Next large membrane speakers. For very large membrane systems this essentially means electrostatic loudspeakers. To reproduce the last octave requires a very large panel indeed and again we are back to practicality issues.

So you can see the wisdom in the old adage: - "Does a speaker have to be large? No but it really helps."

I hope this length response will assist you in your decision of how you want to take your poison.
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
Now to pipes. Pipes were first used to load speakers by Paul Voight seventy or so years ago. The type of pipe used for loading speakers is the closed (one end) pipe, otherwise known as a Gedeckt pipe. The length of the pipe is one half wave length. In addition to the fundamental there will be odd order harmonics generated, no even harmonics. Odd order harmonics are not pleasing to the ear, so at first site this is not a promising system.

However if the driver is placed at a the point of the first node of pressure of the third harmonic, then harmonic generation is to a large degree suppressed.
This point is about 1/4 to 1/3 the pipe length from the close end. Now a pipe has an anti node of pressure at the closed end and a node of displacement at the closed end, a node of pressure and an anti node of displacement at the open end. So there is high pressure at the speaker location, which makes for excellent control of driver excursion.

Now if the pipe is tapered we can broaden the frequency over which the driver is assisted to about 1.5 octaves.

Now an undamped pipe is resonant. It has two peaks of impedance just like a Qb4 box, but port output is high. Fp is obviously determined by pipe length and has to be related to driver F3. Now there is a lot of similarity with a Qb4 box, in that the pipe volume is related to driver VAS. However a pipe can be critically damped without totally suppressing pipe output, although it will be reduced compared to an undamped pipe. The trick is to damp the pipe by stuffing it to the point where you just get one peak of impedance like a sealed enclosure. At that point Qt is around 0.5 roll off 12 db per octave within driver excursion limits.

So where is the snag. It is size. A transmission line pipe designed to reproduce the last octave is a large structure taking up a lot of real estate, so we return to practicality issues. You can see this from my pictures in my signature. Those speakers are dual lines tuned about one half octave apart, resulting in very smooth driver support from 20 to 100 Hz.

For me the result is entirely worth it to have typms, bass strings, bassoons, piano and organ pipes sound just as they should.

I hope this length response will assist you in your decision of how you want to take your poison.
Not sure if it helps him, but it's helping me... I've been reading up on transmission lines all week but haven't been able to really grasp it, especially with the lack of visual examples. That was really useful, although still I can't say I understand the fundamentals of how a TL works, it's definitely become a bit clearer. Is there a book on transmission lines anywhere?

On that note though, does this imply that I've got to build a half wavelength pipe, not quarter wavelength pipe?

Now one question I've got is about how people say critically damped sounds dry... you're implying that it's because people are more familiar with speakers than they are with real instruments. That's fine and all, but it's just that I don't quite comprehend what the term dry implies.
 
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gregz

gregz

Full Audioholic
Thanks for the lengthy reply; I was expecting you to tell me that proper ported designs are just as accurate as sealed designs, but I see you also find well damped sealed boxes to be more agreeable to your ears when it comes to acoustic reproduction.

In one of my many car audio setups in college, I installed a Soundstream Granite 10 in the back of my Civic hatchback. It required a huge box to reach 0.7 alignment, filling up the entire cargo rear compartment. That little 10 looked almost comical in the middle of that huge enclosure. When I drove back to the shop where I'd bought the sub to demo my system with Pink Floyd's The Wall, the installer's mouth dropped. "How did you get the drums to sound so tight?" he asked. Then I showed him the mondo box. He'd been building small boxes following the manufacturer's manual to a tee, and didnt' realize that all along Soundstream had him building high Q boxes for "max boom."

As for the other alignments, the pipe speaker theory was new to me, but predictably falls outside of the goals for this particular system.

I think you hit the nail on the head when you described the eq'd small enclosure as the "brute force" method. It's interesting that you find 0.7 box Q to be high. I remember reading literature on Boston Acoustics subwoofer drivers back in the 90's that also stated that, their preference being 0.6 box Q.

If 0.55 is ideal, then those Exodus 12 inchers will work in my enclosures with no partitioning needed, just an eq. But I already have one foot in my current design, and I'm 99% complete. And thanks to Riverwold, I have a source for the second driver with subsonic free air resonance, plus a spare in reserve.

I'll post what the results are, including some higher decibel videogame playing with explosions. If the NHT's are as limited as your models tell you, then they'll die a premature death and I'll be on to plan B - which right now looks like the eq'd Exodus route. ;)
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
Hey, another driver you should model is the eD 5.12

I just modeled it and it seems well suited to your purposes.
 
gregz

gregz

Full Audioholic
Hey, another driver you should model is the eD 5.12

I just modeled it and it seems well suited to your purposes.
Thanks, Ev. This is awesome, everyone's scouring the internet for possible matches. I should have to pay for this service! :) Hmmmm.... according to my model, the eD comes in with an f3 only a few Hz lower than the less expensive Exodus, and with 4mm less cone travel to boot. It's in the ballpark, but right now for the eq'd design, it looks like the $195 Exodus is the one to beat should I go that route.

I really like this group. Four pages of technical discussion in a forum with no flames or digressions - not to mention a subwoofer search multiplier. Thanks, guys!!
 
gregz

gregz

Full Audioholic
Here's a picture of my current setup. The NHT is on the left in the box design made for it, while the JL is on the right in an older, slightly smaller box I built in college.




Now that I'm five years older than I was when I started this project, my tastes have changed a bit so I'm modifying the design to have beveled sides. I like the aesthetics, and it also removes just a bit more diffraction source from around those accurate monitors.

 
B

bwaslo

Audiophyte
If you have a low-Q woofer and want to lower the resonance and raise the Q, just add some mass (weight) to the cone. Get a Woofer Tester and a glob of modeling clay and you can find the tradeoff experimentally, then when you find the right amount of mass, glue some wire (or leaded solder) to the cone down around the dustcap.
 
gregz

gregz

Full Audioholic
If you have a low-Q woofer and want to lower the resonance and raise the Q, just add some mass (weight) to the cone. Get a Woofer Tester and a glob of modeling clay and you can find the tradeoff experimentally, then when you find the right amount of mass, glue some wire (or leaded solder) to the cone down around the dustcap.
I had previously considered thru-bolting the cones with nuts and washers (picture Frankenstein's monster) to add mass to lower the Fs on one of these new subs but figured it was too hokey and would also drop the sensitivity from poor to abysmal.

Years from now, when my NHT drivers eventually wear out, I'll put in new subs with massive cone displacement and eq the bejezzus out of them. The only question will be if I leave the boxes as is for a super low Qt, or stuff the boxes to match the new speakers and maintain the more standard dampening I currently have. For that, I'll do some sound tests and let my ears decide. When the time comes.

Update on my project: Just finished sanding and painting the fronts black, and I've started glueing on my 1/4 plywood veneer.
 

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