Tuba folded horn HT subwoofer build

[Matt34]

So I went ahead and ordered the plans for this sub. I may try and tackle this build myself with some help from friends. I'm going to use a Dayton 15" DVC sub and for temporary use my one-channel Behringer A500 amp. The SMS-1 will handle EQ duties.

I'll update this thread as progess is made.

http://billfitzmaurice.net/THT.html

 

[KEW]

Are you gonna do the 24" or 36" wide version?
Man! 18 or 27 cu. ft. - that is a monster!

Edit - to avoid confusion, I'm talking actual size of the cabinet, not interior volume.

 

[Matt34]

Are you gonna do the 24" or 36" wide version?
Man! 18 or 27 cu. ft. - that is a monster!

24" version to make sure I can get it through the doors.

 

[Matt34]

Are you gonna do the 24" or 36" wide version?
Man! 18 or 27 cu. ft. - that is a monster!

Edit - to avoid confusion, I'm talking actual size of the cabinet, not interior volume.

What eventually sold me on it was a guy comparing it to his LLT 18" sonotube with 4K power and preferring the Tuba HT.

 

[MidnightSensi]

Doesn't the plans determine the driver?

Also remember you might need more delay than your receiver provides when using a horn subwoofer.

 

[Matt34]

Doesn't the plans determine the driver?

Also remember you might need more delay than your receiver provides when using a horn subwoofer.

He designed it using a tempest 15 which went out of production. The Dayton's t/s specs are almost identical. I can't remember for sure but I believe the sms-1 has adjustments for delay.

 

[annunaki]

He designed it using a tempest 15 which went out of production. The Dayton's t/s specs are almost identical. I can't remember for sure but I believe the sms-1 has adjustments for delay.

The Dayton driver has significantly less xmax than the tempest if I remember correctly. Perhaps I am wrong?

 

[TLS Guy]

He designed it using a tempest 15 which went out of production. The Dayton's t/s specs are almost identical. I can't remember for sure but I believe the sms-1 has adjustments for delay.

Fs and Qts are very similar. The VAS is quite a bit less, 317 lt versus 232 lt. However for a horn that should not be a big problem. The important spec for horns is Qts, You don't want a high Qts driver.

That sub should produce a lot of clean effortless bass with very little power input. If you have the space horns are hard to beat.

 

[WmAx]

Well, that is a massive horn sub. Of course this will achieve at least 3x more output from the driver with equal power input, within the effective bandwidth of the horn. The thing is, you could have just used 3 of the subs in much smaller cabinets and obtained the same acoustical output. It's a good way to maximize the budget - on the assumption you use a low cost cabinet building material like MDF.

-Chris

 

[WmAx]

The Dayton driver has significantly less xmax than the tempest if I remember correctly. Perhaps I am wrong?

No, he is talking about the original Tempest. Not nearly the same quality driver of the current 'Tempest-X'. The Dayton 15" RS is probably substantially superior to the original Tempest.

-Chris

 

[TLS Guy]

No, he is talking about the original Tempest. Not nearly the same quality driver of the current 'Tempest-X'. The Dayton 15" RS is probably substantially superior to the original Tempest.

-Chris

He won't get close to exceeding xmax. If he gets close to xmax he won't have a house. In a decent horn the driver uses very little of its displacement.

A horn is an acoustic transformer, and the output will nearly all be from the mouth of the horn. It is big and will really couple to the room.

I built a huge pair of horns for a large venue in the early seventies. This was mainly for live band gigs. You should have just heard how those horns filled that place with two 100 watt amps on the bass horns. The drums and bass guitar filled the space. Just incredible.

 

[lsiberian]

So I went ahead and ordered the plans for this sub. I may try and tackle this build myself with some help from friends. I'm going to use a Dayton 15" DVC sub and for temporary use my one-channel Behringer A500 amp. The SMS-1 will handle EQ duties.

I'll update this thread as progess is made.

http://billfitzmaurice.net/THT.html

horn subs are insane for volume. They are just huge in size. So be aware of that. I believe the AE drivers are the best for horns actually, but I'd have to dig deeper.

 

[Matt34]

The sub he used for the prototype for this build was loaded with a Tempest Classic driver. The Dayton (Parts Express) DVC 385-88 is for all intents and purposes identical and is what I'll be using. He said you can also use the Parts Express 295-470 as a low cost option.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-190%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&FTR=DVC%20385-88&CFID=6453745&CFTOKEN=44627821

After looking over the plans I may contract out the build, it might just be a bit over my skill level. I found a guy in Phoenix that has built a couple of Bill's designs. Even so, I'll still be under what it would cost commercially to match the performance of this sub.

 

[Matt34]

Well, that is a massive horn sub. Of course this will achieve at least 3x more output from the driver with equal power input, within the effective bandwidth of the horn. The thing is, you could have just used 3 of the subs in much smaller cabinets and obtained the same acoustical output. It's a good way to maximize the budget - on the assumption you use a low cost cabinet building material like MDF.

-Chris

I'll be using either a Baltic Birch 5-ply for it's stiffness and to keep the weight down. I can't imagine how much this thing would way if I were to use MDF. Others that have done it says using the Baltic Birch or similar plywood it weighs in around 80-100lbs.

 

[Matt34]

 

[Matt34]

Nothing really to update expect I'm going to give this a try this weekend with the help of a friend. Can't make any promises and if it turns out like crap I'll only be out the cost of the ply-wood and glue. Luckily for me, my friend has more experience than I do and will be looking the plans over this week.

 

[TLS Guy]

Nothing really to update expect I'm going to give this a try this weekend with the help of a friend. Can't make any promises and if it turns out like crap I'll only be out the cost of the ply-wood and glue. Luckily for me, my friend has more experience than I do and will be looking the plans over this week.

Just take your time and build it carefully. Do not rush the job. This is the most interesting DIY sub project on these forums to date. Bill Fitzmaurice is a great designer, and has added to our knowledge of horn loading immensely.

A design the does not try and cram a quart into a pint pot is the better way to go if you can.

Speakers that work with physical laws rather than try and deceive them with brute force in my view invariably sound superior.

I bet the sub will have a nice light musical touch and deliver a punch at the same time.

You will be in for a treat if you are deliberate and careful with this project.

 

[Matt34]

Thanks Dr. Mark.

I ordered the subwoofer and a set of the hurricane nuts and bolts from PE yesterday evening. I'm going to pick up the wood, PL adhesive, clamps and a few other odds and ends at Home Depot after work today. I really need to clear out a work space in my garage before this weekend as well.

 

[Matt34]

Ran into a family emergency so we didn't get as far as I would have liked. Wife's step-dad passed away this afternoon.

We got all of the panels cut, only messed up one but I bought extra Brich Ply just in case. We'll get started back up tomorrow cutting out the access panel and then gluing and bracing it.

 

[just-some-guy]

interesting build.