Haoleb's Kappa Perfect 12vq MidQ Build Thread

[jinjuku]

You guys must remember that these amps are 500 and 600 dollars in Canada. I found an Ep1500 for 250, which I'm trying to work down to 200. If I can't get the amp, I'll have to wait and save. Musicians friend has them for less, but you need to factor in shipping and duty.

Mike, the EP1500 will be enough for what I need, regardless of a 20% drop in performance.

SheepStar

What is shipping and duties on this? Can't you source them in Canada?

 

[jinjuku]

What is shipping and duties on this? Can't you source them in Canada?

Axe Musi.c is in Canada with free shipping on orders over $199. They have the EP2500 at $384

Hope this helps...

 

[Haoleb]

I am having a hard time sourcing the OC705 locally, Is there a more readily available alternative that will work just as well? Perhaps a few layers of polyfill stapled down to compress them to the large brace?

 

[avaserfi]

I am having a hard time sourcing the OC705 locally, Is there a more readily available alternative that will work just as well? Perhaps a few layers of polyfill stapled down to compress them to the large brace?

Polyfill is not a suitable alternative. This is a source where you can find 8lb rock wool or OC705 if there is a center local to you. Also it is available online here as well as eBay. If none of these sources are sufficient I would be willing to mail some to you for this build, but I would suggest buying a bundle and building room treatments in effort to achieve maximum sound quality.

 

[Sheep]

Axe Musi.c is in Canada with free shipping on orders over $199. They have the EP2500 at $384

Hope this helps...

Thanks for the link. We'll have to see how things go with the Local EP1500. Once I get the amp though, the project starts. No project until I have amplification.

SheepStar

 

[Haoleb]

Time again for an update! Havent had as much time to work on the subs with working all day but I'm in the stages where I have to glue panels on and Only have enough clamps to do one sub at a time so all is well

yesterday morning i sprayed the port interior again and was able to get very decent results (note that the sprayed areas pictures are in the very back of the port and did were not prepped as well as the parts you can see without a flashlight.) Then I was able to attach the bases after work.


Today I got the back panel attached on one sub, The other will have to wait until tomorrow when the glue has fully cured as i did have to clamp it all over for a tight fit of everything. I also brad nailed the back and used screws on the bottom. Also ran the speaker wire as it would be impossible to do the way I wanted later on.

I realize that putting my binding posts right in the middle of the port may not be the most ideal but I dont like the looks of putting it on the side where it would be out of the port but I am confident there will be no noticable ill effects. As you can see I have zip tied the wire tightly to the back panel to prevent any rattling. I also drilled a hole and ran it through the side of the port rather than run the wire up and over inside the port as I think thats just stupid. I will be fully sealing the hole of course even though it nearly is already.

Yes. I am a perfectionist. I hate it when speakers have the wires just thrown in there any old way to rattle around!

 

[Haoleb]

I also installed the T nuts for the spikes. I ordered the spikes from Axiom Audio of all places because for $22 you get free shipping (major plus for me) set of 4 spikes which are quite nice, Also get rubber feet. And binding post wrench and allen wrench. Vs getting the spikes from Parts express for the same price and only getting spikes (although theirs appear a little bit nicer) and then paying shipping on top of that.

http://www.axiomaudio.com/gear_prepack.html

I did have to buy the T nuts seperatly at lowes which came to 5 bucks for both subs. the size needed for the axiom spikes is 1/4" 20 the 20 is threads per inch.

The way I installed the T nuts is not as clean as most manufactures do it but this way they will be much much stronger than if i mounted them the other way.

I predrilled the hole for the center shaft part, all the way through the plywood . Applied a small amount of gorilla glue to the nut for even more strength and then pressed them into the hole/wood with a clamp. A hammer works too but I did not want to be putting undue stress on the cabinets joints hammering those in.

Also, as I mentioned I drilled the hole straight through so there would be air venting out of the holes if you didnt have spikes or feet installed. When you do I cant imagine any coming out. And for further assurance of an airtight seal I will be putting teflon tape on the threads of the spikes.


Thats it for today. Next step will be putting on the sides, Then the top. Then applying a light bead of silicone or caulking just to ensure a seal even though it already seems that its airtight. Then finally the mineral wool (thanks Andrew for getting me some!) front baffle, then off to the last step... painting..

 

[Djizasse]

I'm excited with this You're really convincing me to make one for my room.

Once again, many thanks for your step by step. And don't be shy to post more pics with details on the construction, it's really appreciated

 

[jboogie]

Build ?

Thanks for doing this step by step. It really is helping me with my build. I am only slightly behind you in the build process.

I have a question for you. If I remember correctly, you are using a double thickness baffle, I am too. I am wondering what width of rabet you are planning to use to flush mount the driver? It appears to be a 3/4 in. but I am not sure.

Thanks again, for the hard work!

 

[Haoleb]

Thanks for doing this step by step. It really is helping me with my build. I am only slightly behind you in the build process.

I have a question for you. If I remember correctly, you are using a double thickness baffle, I am too. I am wondering what width of rabet you are planning to use to flush mount the driver? It appears to be a 3/4 in. but I am not sure.

Thanks again, for the hard work!

I am not sure yet. I have to wait until I actually have the drivers before I can measure it. I read two different spec sheets for this driver with two different dimensions for overall dimension and cutout dimension so I dont want to cut anything until I know for sure. Perhaps andrew or chris can chime in on what the exact size it is.

 

[jboogie]

3/4 rabet

Hey, buy the way, it is a 3/4 in. rabet needed for the driver to be inset. I didn't have a rabetting bit that large so I just used my circle jig with the 1/4 upcut bit and made several passes. Worked great.

 

[Haoleb]

Time for another update!

Things are really coming together now. Yesterday I recieved the amplifier,DCX,the Drivers, and my binding posts. First thoughts...

The drivers. WOW these things are big. Surprisingly good quality for 130 bucks each too. One thing I noticed is that the inserts were bouncing around inside the box putting some nicks in the drivers basket, Luckly nothing is damaged. Only paint. But infinity could have packed those things better so they dont bang around in there.

The Ep2500. When the ups guys pulls out a box that says 2x1,200 watts power amplifier on the side you already have a smile on your face This came packed very well, Double boxed and protected. Its pretty hefty, I really could do without the 'EUROPOWER" logo on the front because for some reason it just makes it sound like cheap eurotrash night club thing or something. The fan is pretty loud stock, I thought maybe it would only kick on when it got hot. Nope...

Onto the Build!


Getting the sides attached. Big bar clamps really are a necessity. Some of my panels did not fit perfectly snug just by setting in there but once clamped everything came together tightly.

I also used some silicone caulking around all the joints even though they are already airtight from what I can tell, It cant hurt.

I had to go out and buy a router to do the holes properly as I did not have acess to a plunge router. After some shopping around I decided on the Hitachi KM12VC (IIRC) i got it off amazon for 130 shipped. So far I am in love with this tool. I wish i had got one years ago. There are so many things I never thought about doing with a router before.

I also ordered the jasper 200 jig but it had not even shipped yet and I couldnt wait around for that stupid thing to cut my holes so I decided to just make my own circle jig.

I wont go into details how to construct the jig, But I did read a good tip about how you can test it by just cutting a very very shallow cut to make absolutely sure its setup the way you want...

 

[Haoleb]

Had to take the handle off the router to be able to screw in my screw perfectly straight. Also I used a screw, But it has an area near the head with no threads so that i can turn the jig without it turning the screw or going up or down or whatever. I cut my hole just deep enough to have maybe a 1/16th of material at the bottom of the bit not yet cut out, That way I dont get near the end and the jig comes out of center or something and sends the blade into the side of my hole. I then set the depth for full cut and trimmed out all but about an inch, Then I took off the router and cut the remainder with a razor knife.

Because I flush mounted the driver the outer panel is cut all the way through, so basically I have one hole big enough for the entire driver in the outer panel, and then on the inner panel a hole big enough for mounting the driver lie you would if you surface mounted it. The holes I made were actually a little bit bigger than what inifnity says the cutout dimensions are because those were too small.

Flush mounting it is DEFINETLY the way to go. It looks miles better than surface mounted.

To attach the drivers to the baffle I decided to install T nuts so I could bolt the driver in vs using wood screws directly into the plywood. I like this solution better because i can take the driver out as many times As i like without worry about the wood stripping out. I did run into one thing I had not considered which is over tightening the bolt and having the T nut break out of the wood inside the box, In which case I would be pretty well screwed because It would be very difficult to remove the driver. I would most likely have to drill out the bolt somehow I installed these the same way As I did the ones for the spikes. Although this time they are installed so that the bigger part of the nut is inside the cabinet.

Getting the inner front baffle attached. Again, Pipe clamps are a savior I will attach the outer part of the baffle next but first had to cut the port hole. I did this by drilling a hole in the part I would be cutting out and then using a flush trim bit on my router to trace the port inside and cut out my hole which leaves me with a pefectly square and positioned hole.

I will do the same process for the port after I have the outer part of the front baffle glued on.

Making a MESS!!

Today I should have the cabinets completely fabricated and start on putting a finish on them. So far I can say that these really are pretty big. And also very solid. Knocking on the sides in most places all you hear is a heavy thunk. They will definetly be quite heavy and cumbersome when completly finished and the drivers installed!

 

[Sheep]

Wow, I never realized just how big that box is. Looks good, you have quit the hand at woodworking.

SheepStar

 

[Haoleb]

Ok so as it turns out the T nuts for the driver was a good concept but those T nuts I got at lowes are pure crap. I stripped three of them, Its like they are cross threaded halfway down or something. Whatever the case I decided to knock them all out and officially discard that idea. If I had one of those things come out in there that would have been a real disaster.


So, Keeping with the always true motto of "KISS" (Keep it simple stupid) I came up with what I think is a very elegant fix. I decided to go back to my router and some scrap peices of the plywood and cut out two circles each about an inch in diameter that would go inside the front baffle so that I would have something to screw to. ( I couldnt just move the driver a little because of the logo) I thought i was going to have to cut the circle into two peices to get it into the cabinet but once I cut one side I realized thats all i needed to to. I could then sort of thread it right into the box like how a key ring works. Genius!

Applied liberal amount of glue, clamped and then put 8 screws in as well. I wont be able to use the bolts now But at least this way I know that there is no risk of not being able to get the driver back out again.

The T nuts will still work great for my spikes but for driver mounting. Big mistake!

 

[WmAx]

You don't need T-Nuts in hardwood ply. With hardwood, ply you can remove/replace the screws dozens of times as long as you don't over-tighten and strip the wood. Even then, you can just use a larger size screw if you needed to. If you want a metal lined thread - you can get brass inserts that are basically a cylinder with a large course outer-thread that you screw into the wood after drilling a large hole and then there is a smaller threaded hole in the center of the piece that you use to attach things/bolts/screws. You can use epoxy when you install the unit to bond the unit into the wood permanently if you want. Much better than T-Nuts usually. Even if you get 'good' T-Nuts, it would probably be best to use epoxy to install them.

-Chris

 

[Seth=L]

Haoleb, I hate you and your carpenter's skills.

Honestly though, it looks to be coming along great.

 

[jboogie]

To clarify. You are not using any acoustic damping agents inside the box are you?

 

[Sheep]

To clarify. You are not using any acoustic damping agents inside the box are you?

Yes, he is. Read the plans Avaserfi put up. It calls for OC705 Fiberboard or 8lb density mineral wool behind the driver.

SheepStar

 

[Haoleb]

Yes, Andrew (Avaserfi) was kind enough to source some of the mineral wool for me to put inside, Should be here tomorrow

So far I have the cabinets completely built, All that is left is to put a finish on them. I had a bit of a setback today when the so called "stainable" wood filler I used turned out not to be so stainable after all leaving very obviously lighter marks where I put the filler. I was going to just stain the cabinets and put a clear coat on them after i saw how good they looked sanded, But am now going to have to paint them black because the wood is basically ruined as far as stain goes.

I sanded the cabinets completely by hand, Which really kicked my ***. My arms and back are a bit sore, I literally spent 2 hours JUST hand sanding each of the cabinets. The final result is definetly worth it though The build quality on them is far superior to anything I have ever had the chance to own. Maybe not the finish quality because its not as easy to put a nice finish on plywood as it is with MDF but how solid they are, Is quite impressive. Im glad I listened to the advice here and used the plywood instead of the MDF because even though its easier to get a good finish on it, I dont think its nearly as good a material with as much strength as the plywood.

Im not going to post anymore pics up until they are completely done, Im thinking late tuesday or wednesday

But trust me, They turned out VERY nice. I really impressed myself with how well they came out... well until the stain part but once I paint them it will be like it never happened.