Sub build pictures

[flippo]

Sorry I didn't get any pics of the actual build but here are pictures of the build before port and driver (and staining) are done. I will be staining it on Monday and when that is done I'll install the port, amp and driver.

 

[flippo]

sanding

I will also have to sand a little in places

 

[Seth=L]

Looks very nice, should blow that Polk subwoofer out of the water when it's finished. The design looks very similar to the SVS NSD series subwoofers.

 

[ThA tRiXtA]

Love the natural wood grain! I am going to assume from the perceived quality and fit of the construction that you've done stuff like this before, so I won't go on about the principles of staining and application.

Looks awesome, what kind of finish are you applying? Make sure to post more pics when you're done.

 

[flippo]

First time

Actually this is the first time attempting something like this. Haven't decided on stain but will be medium dark to dark.

 

[ThA tRiXtA]

Well it looks like you're well on your way, good job.

As for your staining, the more sanding and prep time you put in now, the better your finish will be later.

 

[jinjuku]

Sorry I didn't get any pics of the actual build but here are pictures of the build before port and driver (and staining) are done. I will be staining it on Monday and when that is done I'll install the port, amp and driver.

I hate to have to point this out to you; you have the self anchor t-nuts on the wrong side. They are meant to mount through the back side.

 

[sploo]

Good spot jinjuku.

Flippo, you can screw bolts into the tee nuts, so they protrude out of the rear face of the baffle (i.e. pointing into your enclosure). You can then use a hammer and carefully tap on the end of the bolt (from the inside). That should pop each tee nut off without too much damage to your baffle rebate.

 

[WmAx]

Sorry I didn't get any pics of the actual build but here are pictures of the build before port and driver (and staining) are done. I will be staining it on Monday and when that is done I'll install the port, amp and driver.

This is for the Kappa Perfect driver, correct? Please realize, the relatively small cross section area of the tube port will severely limit SPL at and around the port tuning frequency.

-Chris

 

[flippo]

Can you please explain in newbie (with diy) terms? not sure what you mean? Also it figures I would put the T nuts on wrong side! I can probably can get them out but how would I put them back in? The best thing about DIY is I can rebuild later down road if I totally mess it up!

 

[flippo]

veneer

The veneer I put on is pre sanded and ready for staining I just have to get the edges. I also will be putting in more insulation when I get more ( didn't get enough!)

 

[jinjuku]

Just flip the t-nuts around to the other side, thread a bolt (with washer) and tighten down until they seat. That should do it.

OR

You can also off-set the woofer screw holes and re-drill again. You will want to fill in the old holes with something along the lines of tub/bathroom caulk.

BTW, did you drill press those holes for the driver? And where did you get your veneer?

 

[flippo]

veneer

I got the veneer through partsexpress (band it). The actual hole for the driver I cut roughly with jigsaw and the used sanding table to finish.

I am just afraid that I will tear up the baffle getting tee nuts out but I will
Try.

 

[jinjuku]

I meant: Did you use a drill press for the mounting/screw holes where the t-nuts are?

 

[flippo]

yes I did. I think I see where your'e goig with this. how well do the holes
match up, correct?

 

[jinjuku]

yes I did. I think I see where your'e goig with this. how well do the holes
match up, correct?

No, the holes should line up just fine. Just that another newb mistake is not using a drill press for the mounting holes when it comes to t-nuts. If you don't, and use a hand drill, the bolts won't be perfectly perpendicular.

That's all. Let us know how it goes with getting the t-nuts redone.

 

[TLS Guy]

Can you please explain in newbie (with diy) terms? not sure what you mean? Also it figures I would put the T nuts on wrong side! I can probably can get them out but how would I put them back in? The best thing about DIY is I can rebuild later down road if I totally mess it up!

I think we went over this before, but if that is for the kappa perfect 12, then that vent is too small and the airspeed will be far too high. What are going to be your port dimensions?

 

[flippo]

vent

The port 4" flared at both ends and 17" long ( I got the length from winISD) and got a Mach of .11 (I am using the midq option)

 

[TLS Guy]

The port 4" flared at both ends and 17" long ( I got the length from winISD) and got a Mach of .11 (I am using the midq option)

With the Qts set to 0.44, that is about right. Box pro makes the vent length 19 in if both ends are flared. Vent velocity is 30 m/sec, so that is right up to the red line so to speak. I doubt you will play it a full power anyway, so you should be OK. I do recommend you flare both ends of the vent.

 

[flippo]

vent

Both ends are flared