Financial Planners?

evilkat

evilkat

Senior Audioholic
Hi guys, I'm trying to find a good financial planner for myself so that I can at least lay down a decent foundation upon which I can continue to build. I've been out of college and working for about 3 yrs now and it's only in the past year that I am beginning to realize the true value of 401Ks and all that Jazz...but I feel that I'm still a n00b about these matters.

So, tell me do any of you guys use/have used financial planners before? If so which companies do use for this? I've been trying with Ameriprise, and i have to say that my experience thus far has been pretty horrific. It's been 3 months since i signed up but I still haven't met my adviser yet!!

Anyway I'm considering shifting out of there, but maybe I just need to give em a chance. What do u guys say?
 
mazersteven

mazersteven

Audioholic Warlord
Never used a Financial Planner. Always did it myself. Open a Fidelity Account.

www.fidelity.com

Best advise I can give is not to put your cash into a fund or stock. And not pay attention to it. Be aware of what the market is doing.
 
It's really not hard to plan your own future:

- Start investing in Roth IRAs
- Invest all the way in 401k plans only if your employer matches - that's free money. Otherwise max out Roths first. Remeber, tax FREE beats tax DEFERRED every time.
- Don't listen to ANYONE who tells you its not a good idea to pay off your mortgage.
- Buy a house before they get more expensive. They may drop a little more, but they aren't ever going to go back to 1990 prices unless we're in a depression.
- Live BELOW your means. Always. Period.
- Save 3-6 months salary in liquid savings and keep it untouched for emergencies. If you use it, build it back up again.
- Get 20-30 year term life insurance at 10x your annual salary (oif you earn $50k, get $500k worth of insurance). Never EVER buy whole life or anything other than straight term. Life insurance isn't a savings plan, unless your idea of saving is putting your money in a mattress.
- Investigate HSAs (Health Savings Accounts) ESPECIALLY if you are self employed or your employer doesn't pay much of your health care costs. The reason we have a health crisis in America is because healthy people think they need to spend $600-800/mo on health insurance for their families and (apparently) can't do basic math.
- Once all these goals are met and you have extra money, invest in mutual funds. Never buy straight stocks or play the market.

That's my 23-1/2 cents worth...
 
avaserfi

avaserfi

Audioholic Ninja
I currently use a private broker within American Express. I cannot speak of the company as a whole, but she is great - I average about 7% a year.

My best suggestion if you want to go with an actual planner is try and meet with some people who works within/under a large firm. You get the protection of the firm while having only a single person handle your case and thus more contact and care. This is the type of service I have and couldn't imagine anything better.

Yes I realize I am a very odd college student because I save for my future. Then again knowing that I have a my first houses down payment more than covered makes me feel better :D.
 
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mazersteven

mazersteven

Audioholic Warlord
- Get 20-30 year term life insurance at 10x your annual salary (oif you earn $50k, get $500k worth of insurance). Never EVER buy whole life or anything other than straight term. Life insurance isn't a savings plan, unless your idea of saving is putting your money in a mattress....
I don't know about the Term Life stuff. If your young (in your twenties) buy the time your in your 40's or 50's you'll have no insurance. You'll have to invest in another plan.

When the other way you could
1) Invest the cash you would have put into the fund yourself and self insure yourself.
2) Whole Life your money has a guaranteed cash value, and sometimes pays dividends back to you. If you get a Whole Life policy when your young they have less expensive annual premiums.
 
I don't know about the Term Life stuff. If your young (in your twenties) buy the time your in your 40's or 50's you'll have no insurance. You'll have to invest in another plan.
No, by that time you should not need insurance and should have enough to cover your needs. Your house will be paid off, kids are out of school, college, marries, etc... A 30-year term plan bought in your 30s means you'll be in your 60s when it runs out. You'll have invested a grand total of maybe $9000 in insurance over 30 years (and that's if you didn't shop around much). All whole life plans, in comparison, are a complete rip-off since you can always invest money into a savings plan or other investment that yields MUCH higher returns.

Life insurance is one of the biggest rip-off scams in the world. It should almost be illegal but no one forces you to buy it (or do basic math.) I can run some numbers if anyone cares to throw up a whole life plan for comparison. Non-term Life policies take money that can otherwise be invested in higher interest accounts and basically gives you almost nothing in return. It's essentially little better than stuffing your money in a mattress if you break down what that money could have earned at even 7% over time.

Sorry - pet peeve.
 
mazersteven

mazersteven

Audioholic Warlord
$9 grand over 30 years for a $500,000 policy? :eek:
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
2) Whole Life your money has a guaranteed cash value, and sometimes pays dividends back to you. If you get a Whole Life policy when your young they have less expensive annual premiums.
Unfortunately that is the worst insurance one can buy.
 
evilkat

evilkat

Senior Audioholic
My company just started an HSA thing but it sounded so confusing and overwhelming that I thought i'd skip it for this year (all this happened during my grad skool finals). I'll have to look into that more closely. On the other hand, I really need to read up on Roth IRAs. Seems like it's a good thing (tm) :) Thanks for the advice Clint!
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
Hi guys, I'm trying to find a good financial planner for myself so that I can at least lay down a decent foundation upon which I can continue to build. I've been out of college and working for about 3 yrs now and it's only in the past year that I am beginning to realize the true value of 401Ks and all that Jazz...but I feel that I'm still a n00b about these matters.

So, tell me do any of you guys use/have used financial planners before? If so which companies do use for this? I've been trying with Ameriprise, and i have to say that my experience thus far has been pretty horrific. It's been 3 months since i signed up but I still haven't met my adviser yet!!

Anyway I'm considering shifting out of there, but maybe I just need to give em a chance. What do u guys say?

May want to start listening to Suzie Orman:D
Be careful with financial advisers as they have a self interest in steering you to investments, unless they just get a flat fee for service.

Start as soon as you can on retirement investments, and Roth was mentioned as the best method for now, unless the government changes its mind;) Remember, compounding interest is a geometric curve when you plot it. Delaying it for just 10 years as a young person could cost you a fortune: Suzie has the example of $200/mo = $1mil at retirement. A 10 year delay means a loss of $700k :eek:

If you don't have any dependents, no real need for insurance, unless you have known health issues or warning signs in the family, perhaps. There may be term life with guaranteed renewability. If that is the case, buy it for the shortest terms as then each year is really cheap as the mortality table is only for a year, not averaged and weighted over a 20/30yr cycle.
 
highfihoney

highfihoney

Audioholic Samurai
It's really not hard to plan your own future:

- Start investing in Roth IRAs
- Invest all the way in 401k plans only if your employer matches - that's free money. Otherwise max out Roths first. Remeber, tax FREE beats tax DEFERRED every time.
- Don't listen to ANYONE who tells you its not a good idea to pay off your mortgage.
- Buy a house before they get more expensive. They may drop a little more, but they aren't ever going to go back to 1990 prices unless we're in a depression.
- Live BELOW your means. Always. Period.
- Save 3-6 months salary in liquid savings and keep it untouched for emergencies. If you use it, build it back up again.
- Get 20-30 year term life insurance at 10x your annual salary (oif you earn $50k, get $500k worth of insurance). Never EVER buy whole life or anything other than straight term. Life insurance isn't a savings plan, unless your idea of saving is putting your money in a mattress.
- Investigate HSAs (Health Savings Accounts) ESPECIALLY if you are self employed or your employer doesn't pay much of your health care costs. The reason we have a health crisis in America is because healthy people think they need to spend $600-800/mo on health insurance for their families and (apparently) can't do basic math.
- Once all these goals are met and you have extra money, invest in mutual funds. Never buy straight stocks or play the market.

That's my 23-1/2 cents worth...
I cant even begin to say how much i agree with this post.

Its all right here in the above post & you dont need a planner to do it for you,keep control of your own cash,there is no need to give a planner a percentage of your cash.

One thind i'd like to add is on the health insurance,its very important to have a policy that pays 100% of your bills should you be hurt & not able to work.
 
aberkowitz

aberkowitz

Audioholic Field Marshall
I agree with a lot of what Clint said, but as somebody who works in financial services I'll add my advice. First- at 25 years old (I'm guessing by the 3 years out of college comment) a financial advisor is a waste of money for you. Unless you have a minimum of 50k sitting around, there's nothing that any of those guys will do for you that you can't do for yourself for free. I've personally gotten lucky b/c I have a legacy broker through my family- but I do very little with him. Second- sit down and think about what you're saving for. At this point of your life, you're mainly saving for 1) Retirement (taken care of by a 401k for now) and 2) A house/rainy day fund. I combine house and rainy day in the same category for right now b/c you're going to invest the money the exact same way- safe instruments, steady returns, tax beneficial.

Your priorities for the next 5 years of your life should be:

1) Invest 15% of your salary in your 401K EVERY YEAR!!! I cannot express how much compound interest/returns can come into play, particularly since it's pre-tax. It doesn't matter whether there's a match or not, take advantage of the fact that the money builds up tax free. The max investment each year is 15% or 15,500- so take advantage of it. Now being 25 you're not retiring for another 40 years (about), therefore when picking funds you should be fairly aggressive. I know it's hard to look at things this way- but you have to be willing to accept a year of losses when you're young for the potential to make larger gains. At your age 85% of your money should be in growth stocks, 15% in value stocks or bonds. If you work for a company that offers retirement year funds (e.g. Fidelity Freedom 2045) then you can be simple and invest in one of those. If you want to get more complex then you should look to break up your money between International Equity, Equity Large Cap Growth, Small Cap Growth, and Large Cap Value/Blend funds. If you want more specific advice feel free to PM me.

2) Keep a budget of monthly expenses, include in the budget the amount you want to save per month and automatically take it out at the top. This will help you start to get an idea of what you can reasonably put away each month, and will help you adjust for other expenses accordingly. Btw- there's nothing wrong with saving less for a month so you can go on vacation or buy christmas presents (gotta still have fun), but if you can work those things into a monthly budget you'll be amazed how much you can save.

3) As for the house/rainy day fund- you can save in a couple of different ways, but my recommendation is to find a good mutual fund and invest your money there, as well as have all dividends re-invested. Fidelity and Vangard are great companies and their advisors are generally reasonable. I would wait until you have about $4-5K in cash prior to looking into one though, since many of the good funds have minimums. The nice thing about a MF is that you can constantly add more money whenever you want, and you can also sell off in pieces in case you need to access your cash. This can serve as backup emergency fund.

4) You also want to have a decent cash balance, so take some of your monthly savings and just put it into a savings account or money market to have for emergencies. This money plus your MF money will be more than adequate to back you up.

5) AVOID Roth IRAs. Roth's were great when they first came out b/c there were no limits on your income level for contributions.... however, they recently changed the laws to penalize high earners from contributing. First, you can only contribute $4,000 a year. Second, once your salary level hits 100K your contribution is cut in half, and once you 115K you can no longer contribute. Compare this to the 401K where you can contribute 15.5K a year no matter how high your salary gets. If you don't believe that you're ever going to make that much money then it's a different story.... My main dislike of the Roth, however, is that you have no control over how the money is invested compared to the 401K. With the 401K you can at least allocate the funds, the Roth does not allow you to do that, and it also charges higher penalities than the 401K should you require early withdrawal (aside from those reasons that are penalty free). Finally- a Roth is only superior to a 401K from a tax perspective if you are absolutely sure that tax rates (ordinary and cap gains) in the future will be higher than tax rates today.

6) A house is a great buy if A) you are in an area where it's worthwhile to own as a young person (e.g. not in NYC, LA, DC, etc) and B) you don't have to struggle to put 20% down. Otherwise I would wait, especially since I don't believe the bottom of the mortgage market has been hit.

7) If your job offers life insurance coverage through your benefits then take that- and there's no need to go up to 10X your salary until you're married and have kids. 2-3X is quite fine as a 20-something.

8) Agree with Clint on avoiding stocks unless you like to throw darts at the stock pages. Once you make some serious cash a real financial advisor can help you out... and by serious cash I'm talking about 6 figures in non-house assets.

The biggest piece of advice I can give you (as a 28 year-old myself) is not to worry on a daily basis about your retirement. Don't look at your 401K balance every day, even every week... look every 6 months. It's not going to grow on a daily basis- it grows over the years. As long as you keep at least 3 months worth of rent handy between your cash and mutual fund accounts, you'll be more than fine.
 
aberkowitz

aberkowitz

Audioholic Field Marshall
Start as soon as you can on retirement investments, and Roth was mentioned as the best method for now, unless the government changes its mind;) Remember, compounding interest is a geometric curve when you plot it. Delaying it for just 10 years as a young person could cost you a fortune: Suzie has the example of $200/mo = $1mil at retirement. A 10 year delay means a loss of $700k :eek:
Government has already changed it's mind. Lots of limits on the Roths from a contribution perspective. $4,000 max and it's only good until you hit 6 figures.... the 401K allows up to $15,500. Yes, the Roth builds up tax-free, but you have to put in after-tax funds- $4,000 after tax equals $5,600 pre-tax assuming the 28% tax rate. If you can afford to give at least $7,500, the 401K works out better every time.
 
MUDSHARK

MUDSHARK

Audioholic Chief
The Roth IRA as a first investment sheltered account after attaining the maximum 401k match is good advice. Since you appear to be quite young the tax-free earnings of the Roth cannot be beat. Complements by the way for considering your financial goals at such a young age.

If I may, I would also suggest using the Roth to utilize a targeted retirement date fund. These super funds adjust the allocation of investments as you age to keep your total allocation in line with expected years to retirement. There are several available from respected no-load fund families such as T. Rowe Price. They are often named 2045, 2050, etc... based on the expected retirement date. I am instituting this option in our 401K this year to provide our employees a low maintenance method of keeping their allocations prudent. We also have in place five life styles from conservative (less than 3 years from retirement) to agressive (over ten years from retirement). Of course, we also provide over 30 mutual funds chosen based on performance and low fund expenses for more financially knowledable employees.

In regard to variable annuities: This piece of advice: Stay away. If you need insurance buy term insurance (level 15 year premiums are OK). If you need a mutual fund then buy a good no-load fund. The plan expenses in these annuities is outrageous even if well hidden in the disclosures.
 
aberkowitz

aberkowitz

Audioholic Field Marshall
In regard to variable annuities: This piece of advice: Stay away. If you need insurance buy term insurance (level 15 year premiums are OK). If you need a mutual fund then buy a good no-load fund. The plan expenses in these annuities is outrageous even if well hidden in the disclosures.
Great advice all parts. Forgot to mention no-load when it comes to MFs. Annuities are basically scams targeting senior citizens.
 
M

MDS

Audioholic Spartan
5) AVOID Roth IRAs. Roth's were great when they first came out b/c there were no limits on your income level for contributions.... however, they recently changed the laws to penalize high earners from contributing. First, you can only contribute $4,000 a year. Second, once your salary level hits 100K your contribution is cut in half, and once you 115K you can no longer contribute. Compare this to the 401K where you can contribute 15.5K a year no matter how high your salary gets. If you don't believe that you're ever going to make that much money then it's a different story.... My main dislike of the Roth, however, is that you have no control over how the money is invested compared to the 401K. With the 401K you can at least allocate the funds, the Roth does not allow you to do that, and it also charges higher penalities than the 401K should you require early withdrawal (aside from those reasons that are penalty free). Finally- a Roth is only superior to a 401K from a tax perspective if you are absolutely sure that tax rates (ordinary and cap gains) in the future will be higher than tax rates today.
The rest of the advice was pretty good but the above is almost entirely false.

- There has always been an earnings cap for eligibililty for contributing to a Roth, it isn't new, and that limit just went up this year. As you approach the limit your allowable contribution goes down. I hit the limit last year and my allowable contribution was only $2600 - still a bit more than half of the max.

- The penalties for early withdrawal from a Roth are identical to a 401K. If you are under age 59 1/2, you pay tax at ordinary income tax rates plus get a 10% penalty. You can however withdraw your contributions at any time without penalty because after all they have already been taxed (A Roth is after-tax contributions). Just like a 401K there are exceptions to the rules too - you can take 'substantially equal' withdrawals over your expected lifetime without penalty (other than income tax).

- A Roth is just an investment vehicle with certain rules governing contribution limits and tax treatment. You can invest anything you want in a Roth - stocks, bonds, mutual funds, whatever. With a 401K you are limited to the investment choices offered by your plan provider although they can be substantial.

- Having both a 401K and a Roth provides tax diversification as you can't realistically predict whether you will be in a higher or lower tax bracket in retirment or what the current tax rate will be.

Also consider that a Roth has no minimum distribution requirements like a 401K and the entire balance can be left tax free to your heirs. It's just another tool for saving for retirement. One should do both if at all possible.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
Government has already changed it's mind. Lots of limits on the Roths from a contribution perspective. $4,000 max and it's only good until you hit 6 figures.... the 401K allows up to $15,500. Yes, the Roth builds up tax-free, but you have to put in after-tax funds- $4,000 after tax equals $5,600 pre-tax assuming the 28% tax rate. If you can afford to give at least $7,500, the 401K works out better every time.
Oh, yes, but this year it is $5k and for the OP just our of college, you think he will be limited? And, you really think that the tax break now on the $5k is worth more than the tax break on millions in 45 years? I think I would opt for the tax free take out of those millions, thanks.:D
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
Aren't you glad you asked this question? I bet a whole lot of others are as well.:D
 
Rob Babcock

Rob Babcock

Moderator
My advice: don't get your investment advise from an audio/video website. This is a fantastic place to get info on man/boy-toys, but check with grown-ups for money matters.;)
 
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