Looking for a new sub. please help

[whubbard]

Also, here is the layout I was thinking.
(attached)

Setup #1 will have a short XLR cable, but then one long speaker cable runing to the far sub, and one short speaker cable running to the near sub.

Setup #1 will have a longer XLR cable, but the speaker cables going to the subs will be the same length...and they will only be of medium length.

I'm thinking that the Setup #2 is better...

 

[MDS]

Also, here is the layout I was thinking.
(attached)

Setup #1 will have a short XLR cable, but then one long speaker cable runing to the far sub, and one short speaker cable running to the near sub.

Setup #1 will have a longer XLR cable, but the speaker cables going to the subs will be the same length...and they will only be of medium length.

I'm thinking that the Setup #2 is better...

It won't matter either way. XLR is balanced and so is good for long runs. The signal travels down a speaker wire at roughly 70% the speed of light so if one cable is 20 feet long and the other is 1 foot long, as far as your ears are concerned, it arrived at both subs at exactly the same time.

 

[jinjuku]

So would I bridge the behringer so it outputs in mono (which is 2400W), and then put both speakers into their own separate series, and then have them come back and connected to the same terminals?

No, the amp will not be bridged mono. The 160v.2 Dual 2's have two voice coils. You are simply connecting the voice coils in a series and therefore summing their resistance. So 2+2=4 ohms per box which is fed by a channel. You will see when you get the drivers.

 

[whubbard]

Okay, that makes sense now.
So I think I'm all set in term of the parts...and the setup.
Setup #2 is good right?

Also, the cleanbox is good, right?

 

[jinjuku]

Okay, that makes sense now.
So I think I'm all set in term of the parts...and the setup.
Setup #2 is good right?

Also, the cleanbox is good, right?

Setup 2 looks ok to me. Cleanbox is going to be fine. Looks like you are good to go.

 

[whubbard]

Now time to work on the box design.

....i sent annunaki a pm

 

[annunaki]

Get me the t/s parameters and/or a link for them. I will model it monday when I get back into town. Thanks!

 

[whubbard]

I hope this is the information you need:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=36

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/elementaldesigns_16ov2chart.php

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=36


Again. Thank you so much.

 

[WmAx]

Note on the Behringer EP2500: If you use the amp in stereo mode, do not use a single channel input and configure the switches on the back to split to mono two channel. If you do, it is often reported that the channel imbalance will be off. One should use a splitter cable externally to feed a mono signal to the two inputs if using the amplifier in stereo mode.

-Chris

 

[whubbard]

Well i'm going to be imputting into it via a stereo souce...so i don't think this should be a problem

also for anyone following this thread...i've updated my driver choice to two Dayton 15" Mk III

 

[jinjuku]

Well i'm going to be imputting into it via a stereo souce...so i don't think this should be a problem

also for anyone following this thread...i've updated my driver choice to two Dayton 15" Mk III

Why?

While the 15" MkIII is no slouch, I don't think you will find many here that would pick it over the eD sub. especially given the price. The eD 160v.2 is at least 10 bucks cheaper and has a hell of alot more motor structure.

 

[whubbard]

Hehe...I lied
I changed it too the Dayton 15" RS - HF.
I know its not going to have the boom of a eD, but it does have better musicality and that what I care about.

Still think it's a bad idea.....?

 

[jinjuku]

I can see the sense in the RS-HF. It will most likely be the best suited for music listening out of the three.

Since you are into wood working:

1 Recommendations on a 90 degree corner clamp?
2 Were can I find 1 inch MDF. I can only lay hands on 3/4" stuff. I am close to Detroit. Not like I live in the middle of no where.
3 What glue can you use that is ok not to use additional binding (like screws) for speaker cabinents.

 

[whubbard]

1) To be honest most corner clamps are just as good as the next. I mean, don't buy a super cheap one, but the super expensive ones aren't all that useful. While metal ones are nice, I like ones with some plastic on the contact point so that the wood isn't damadged. I also prefer ones with two knobs for tightening, not just one. (EDIT: You got me searching, and I got 4 of these for the price of 3 (amazon deal)...and they are good clamps...might want to order 4 yourself)

2) I'm not sure, I'll be going to Home Depot soon to see if they have some (I'm trying to find it too...I'll let you know if they do). Sadly 3/4" is pretty much standard.

3) For speaker building I'm not sure, but Gorilla Glue should work VERY well. For these speakers I'm going to use carpenters glue, with screws, then bondo and paint the whole thing.

Hope that helps, if I didn't make sense anywhere, feel free to ask me to clarify.

 

[whubbard]

Sorry.
I forgot to include the links for the clamps on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-3415405-Right-Angle-Clamp/dp/B000JCGYD6/ref=sr_1_1/104-2162356-1215149?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1193713378&sr=8-1

Enjoy

 

[annunaki]

For adhesives, I would suggest an Elmer's or Tite-Bond all weather wood/carpenter's glue if the cuts will be very smooth and accurate. If they will not be as smooth or accurate as hoped go for Liquid Nails or other subflooring adhesive. It will help fill anyvoids and still create an extremely strong joint.

Wood glue/Carpenter's glue will yield the best bond as it actually joins the wood together. If using screws to hold the enclosure together along with the adhesive (recommended) be sure to pre-drill and countersink holes. I would also suggest using a screw every 4 inches or so 3 at minimum. There is no need for too many screws.

 

[whubbard]

I was thinking gorilla glue...as it is know to form a very very tight bond. I only wouldn't put screws in any closer than 3 inches as that would be excessive.

However I was thinking that maybe just the gorilla glue, and putting in some 2 1/2" 18ga nails (from a nail gun) would also work well.

 

[annunaki]

I was thinking gorilla glue...as it is know to form a very very tight bond. I only wouldn't put screws in any closer than 3 inches as that would be excessive.

However I was thinking that maybe just the gorilla glue, and putting in some 2 1/2" 18ga nails (from a nail gun) would also work well.

I don't care for nails as they can loosen after being diven in. You can also have splitting issues with nails.

I do not reecommend Gorilla Glue as it is not designed to bond wood together as one. MDF is essentially pressed sawdust held together with wood glue under immense pressure until cured. Using wood glue is similar to that process without the heat.

 

[whubbard]

Yeah,
I Agree...now.

I read around and people prefer titebond II for wood to wood. Gorilla is better for mismatched surfaces